LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE 


THE   SOUTH  PACIPIC 


A  ROVING  PRINTER. 


NEW    YORK: 

HARPER  &  BROTHERS,  PUBLISHERS, 

FBANKLIM    6QUASE. 

18G1. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  one  thousand  eight 
hundred  and  sixty,"  by 

HARPER   <fc   BROTHERS, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  Southern  District  of 
New  York. 


PREFACE. 


The  present  volume  lays  no  claim  to  literary  merit. 
Two  young  men,  led  to  engage  in  the  whale-fisheries, 
and  spending  five  years  in  the  employment,  have  com- 
piled from  their  log-books  and  their  recollection  a  plain, 
unvarnished  narrative  of  this  period.  The  work  is 
placed  before  the  public  as  an  account  of  localities  few 
have  visited,  and  the  detail  of  an  employment  of  which 
little  is  generally  known.  The  chief  effort  in  the  way 
of  style  has  been  to  give  vivid  descriptions,  and  make 
the  reader  the  companion  of  the  traveler.  Aside  from 
the  information  of  the  volume,  it  is  enlivened  by  "life 
on  shipboard." 

In  these  days  of  many  books,  in  which  "voyages" 
liave  no  small  representation,  it  may  seem  almost  pre- 
sumptuous to  put  forth  another  tale  of  travel.  Yet  ev- 
ery traveler  has  his  own  experiences;  and  the  sailors 
who  offer  here  their  narrative  for  the  landsman's  inspec- 
tion believe  that  their  yarn  is  not  an  old  one,  and  they 
have  some  confidence  that  the  reader  will  not  say  it  is 
a  dull  one. 


i 


hlifl^  *?/i  irf 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

New  Bedford. — Fitting  out  a  Whaler. — Shipping  a  Crew. — Green 
Hands. — Shippers. — Outfitters. — A  Sailor's  Wardrobe. — All  Hands 
on  board. — Good-by  to  Yankee  Land. — The  Pilot  taking  leave. — 
The  last  Farewell. — Captain's  Speech. — Choosing  Watches. — The 
Modus  Operandi  of  Ships'  Watches. — Sea-sickness Page  13 

CHAPTER  II. 

Sick  of  the  Sea. — Description  of  the  Boats  and  Whaling  Apparatus. — 
Boat-headers.  — Boat-steerers.  —  Mastheads.  —  The  first  Whale.  — 
"There  she  blows!" — All  hands  excited. — Lowering  the  Boats. — 
"Pull,  every  man  of  you." — A  Fisherman's  Luck. — Whales  again. — 
Cape  Verd  Islands. — St.  Antonio. — St.  Jago. — Fogo,  the  Island  of 
Fire. — Going  ashore. — A  noisy  Crowd.  —  Tom  and  the  Portugee 
Donkey. — Manuel. — Now  for  Cape  Horn 25 

CHAPTER  III. 
Our  Captain. — Ofiiccrs. — Boat-steerers. — Foremast  Hands. — Jo  Bob. 
-7-Sailor's  Fare. — The  Cask  of  Pies. — Mackey. — Lawrence  asleep  35 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Crossing  the  Equator. — Barney  looking  for  the  "Line." — Spoke  Ship 
"Java." — Spoke  Ship  "Ontario,"  homeward  bound. — Writing  Let- 
ters Home  "under  Difficulties." — Sperm  Whales  again. — A  Fast 
Boat.— The  Red  Flag.— The  Flurry.— The  Fluke-chain  passed...  41 

CHAPTER  V. 
Description  of  the  Sperm  Whale. — Described  externally. — Difference 
between  the  Sperm  and  Right  Whale 49 

CHAPTER  VI. 
"Cutting  in" 59 

CHAPTER  VII. 

"  Trying  out." — "  Stowing  down." — "  Cleaning  up." — Gale  off"  the  Riv- 
er De  la  Plata. — Thunder  and  Lightning. — Narrow  Escape  of  the 
Ship 62 


VI  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  Vm. 

Preparing  for  Cape  Horn. — Head  Winds. — Staten  Land. — Cape  Horn. 
— Heavy  Gale. — Porpoises  and  Albatross. — Mackey  and  the  Third 
Mate. — Captured  a  Sperm  Whale. — Preparing  for  Port. — The  Anchor 
down Page  67 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Talcahuana.  —  Its  Streets. — Public  Buildings. — Market. — Calaboose. 
— The  Harbor.  —  Churches.  — Paulparees. — Inhabitants. — Manners 
and  Customs. — Getting  off  Water. — Mackey  again  in  Trouble. — In  the 
Calaboose. — Califomians. — Climate  and  Products  of  Chili. — Horse- 
back Riding. — Spanish  Wake. — Desertion. — ^American  Consul.— 
Mackey 's  Oi'ation. — Swimming  ashore.  — Departure 71 

CHAPTER  X. 

Cruising. — Boats'-crew  Watches. —  Deserters  by  wholesale. — A  large 
Reward. — Public  Auction. — Juan  Fernandez. — Peaches. — Robinson 
Crusoe's  Cave. — Fishing. — Ship  "Java." — Masa  Fuero. — St.  Felix. 
— St.  Ambi-ose. — San  Lorenzo. — Callao. — A  Railroad 78 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Payta. — Its  Appearance. — Inhabitants. — Shipped  three  Spaniards. — 
Gamming.  —  Exchanged  Boat-steerers.  —  Gloomy  Forebodings.  — 
Whales  again. — Stove  Boat. — Manuel  overboard. — No  Sunday  oft' 
Soundings. — Mackey  and  the  Mate. — Star-gazing. — Reflections. — 
A  County  Fair. — Lawrence  in  Trouble 86 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Marquesas  Islands. — Dominica. — Its  Appearance. — Visitors. — Tattoo- 
ing.— The  Chief. — His  costly  Dress. — Delivers  his  Papers. — A  "  Rec- 
ommend."—Society  Islands. — Roratongo. — Its  Appearance. — New 
York. — New  Bedford. — Too  many  Friends. — The  universal  Remedy. 
— Fruit. — A  thieving  Set.  —  Missionaries. — Petty  Tyrannies  prac- 
ticed.— Rev.  John  Williams. — His  Death. — The  staple  Commodity. 
— The  Desire  for  Sea. — Queen  and  Government. — Desertion. — Gen- 
eral Losses. — Jo  Bob's  Choice. — A  merry  Time 92 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Making  Passage  to  King  Mill  Group. — Fourth  of  July. — Byron's  Island. 
— Perote  Island. — Drummond's  Island. — Sydenham's  Island. — Visit 
from  the  Natives. — Their  Canoes. — Themselves. — Trade.  —  "Dit- 
toes."— Taking  of  the  "Triton." — A  treacherous  Portuguese. — A 
bloody  Massacre. — A  just  Retribution. — The  Kanaka's  Stratagem. — 
The  Natives  frightened. — Prisoners  ashore. — A  young  Hero. — Hop- 


CONTENTS.  -  Vll 

tages. — The  Prisoners  released. — Proceed  to  the  Sandwich  Islands. — 
Henderville's  Island. — Woodle's  Island. — Natives  again.  —  "Teka 
moi  4noi." — ^Young  Cocoanuts. — Decidedly  Jewish. — Easily  satisfied. 

—  Description  of  Natives. — The  Females. — A  large  Fleet. — Com- 
parisons.— Simpson's   Island. — Ship  "  Narragansett." — Stove   Boat. 

—  Fisherman's  Luck.  —  Experiments  in  Mesmerism.  —  Somebody 
"sold" Page  99 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Pitt's  Island. — Knox  and  Charlotte's  Islands. — Base  Conduct. — Thiev- 
ing.— Jack  and  Manuel. — Almost  a  "dead  Nigger." — Bark  "Belle." 
— Ship  "Boy." — "Wreck  of  the  "Flying  Fox." — Plundered  by  the 
Natives. — Hall's  Island. — Desertion. — My  Man  Friday. — A  wet  Berth 
again. — Ship  "Hector." — Anxiety  for  Letters. — ^A  Canoe  in  distress. 
— A  heart-rending  Sight. — Gratitude  of  the  Natives. — Pleasant  Isl- 
and.— Its  Natives. — Murder  of  white  Men. — Brig  "Inga." — Thieves 
again. — Search-warrant  issued. — Property  found,  Culprit  tried  and 
punished. — A  heavy  Squall. — Strong's  Island 110 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Strong's  Island. — King. — Canker. — Dress. — Chiefs. — Description  of  the 
Island. — Large  Island. — Small  Island. — Productions. — Wild  Game. 
— Canals. — Stone  Walls. — Who  built  them  ? — Ruins. — Suppositions. 
— A  Rebellion. — Customs. — Queen. — Princes  and  Princesses. — Se- 
kane. — Caesar. — Natives. — Females. — "  Strong's  Island  Trowsers." — 
Employments.  —  Houses. — Marriages. — Sports. — Canoes. — Carva. — 
Banyan-tree.  — Religion.  —  "Blueskin."  —  Traditions.  — Priests.  — 
Rites  and  Ceremonies. — Funeral  Ceremonies. — Rotumah  Tom. — Food 
of  the  Natives. — Blueskin  and  his  Procession. — Friday's  Opinion. — 
The  Feast. — "Very  good,"  but  think  we  won't  indulge. — Choose  our 
"Hotel." — An  unpleasant  Surprise.  —  "Planter." — Mutiny  and  its 
Consequences. — Desertion. — One  kind  of  Navigation. — A  Stroll  to 
Large  Island. — Friday  and  the  Taboo. — Incidents  in  Port. — Weighed 
Anchor.  —  "Mary  Frazier." — Death  and  Burial  of  Mr.  S. — A  few 
random  Thoughts 120 

CHAPTER  XVI. 
"A  happy  New-year  to  all." — Rather  poor  Luck. — Pitt's  Island  again. 
— Description. — Natives. — King. — Religious  Belief. — Funeral  Cere- 
monies. —  "  Jentsh."  —  Houses.  —  Costume.  —  Food- — Language. — 
Weapons  of  War. — Mode  of  Warfare. — Return  to  Strong's  Island. — 
Improvements. —  Singing-school. — The  Royal  Family  to  Dinner. — 
Canker's  Guilt.  —  Poisoned  Carva. — Return  to  our  "Hotel." — Our 
Suspicions  strengthened.  —  "  Stop  Thief !"  —  Gas.  —  New  Zealand 
Dance. — Grand  Feast. — Tall  Dancing. — "Cheers"  by  the  Audience. 


Vm  CONTENTS. 

— "  Gro  it,  Caesar!" — Grand  Boat-race. — The  Boasters  beaten. — An- 
other great  Feast. — Ball  Alley. — Narrow  Escape  of  the  Ship. — De- 
parture for  Guam Page  144 

CHAPTER  XVn. 

Guam. — Invasion  of  the  Ladrone  Islands  by  the  Spaniards  in  1554. — 
Getting  oflF  Recruits. — Fruit. — Climate. — Captain  Anderson. — Mas- 
sacre of  Captain  Luce  and  Boat's  Crew. — Proceed  to  Japan  Cruising- 
ground. — Ship  "  Boy."— Boat's  Crew  taken  down  by  a  Whale. — Al- 
bicore  and  Skipjack. — "  Our  Luck"  again. — The  Spell  broken. — 
Bark  "  Medina." — Manuel  and  the  Hog. — A  slight  Tap 154 

CHAPTER  XVIH. 

Food  of  the  Sperm  Whale. — Manner  of  Feeding. — Swimming. — Breath- 
ing.— Herding 161 

CHAPTER  XIX. 
Nature  of  Sperm  Whales'  Food. — "  Sepia  Octopus." — ^Nautilus 178 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Close  of  the  first  "  Season"  on  Japan. — Making  Passage  to  the  Group. 
— "Land  ho!" — "Breathing-places  for  Sailors." — Henderville's  Isl- 
and.— Unpleasant  Prospect. — Narrow  Escape  from  the  Breakers. — 
A  large  Whale. — An  ugly  Customer. — Ocean  Island  Dick. — Ocean 
Island. — "Some  Pumpkins." — Bound  for  Strong's  Island. — Calms. 
— "Blow,  ye  gentle  Breezes." — At  our  "Hotel"  once  more. — Hospi- 
tality of  the  Natives. — A  diabolical  Scheme. — Anger  of  the  King. — 
Narrow  Escape  of  all  Hands  from  Poisoning. — W^ilds  and  the  Queen. 
— A  sudden  Awakening. — Wild  Boar. — Join  in  the  Chase. — Brave 
Men. — The  Boar  presented  in  great  State  to  the  King. — Bravery  of 
the  "White  Man." — "Hog  not  Dog." — ^At  sea  again 187 

CHAPTER  XXL 

Blackfish.  —  Ship  "Phocion."  —  Ship  "Ganges."  — Bark  "Belle."— 
"Chips"  in  Prison. — Friday's  Departure. — Sorrowful  Leave-taking. 
— Ship  "Bengal." — Ship  "Lion." — Henderville's  Island  once  more. 
—  Dick  Simpson.  —  Ship  "John  and  Elizabeth."  —  Another  New 
Year. — "Music  by  the  Band." — Variations. — An  "Amateur"  Con- 
cert.— Bark  "Alfred  Tyler." — Wreck  of  the  "Ontario." — Ocean  Isl- 
and again. — ^Freshwater  Cavern. — Superstitions. — Beachcombers. — 
Rascally  Operations.  —  Convicts.  ■ —  Taboo.  — Natives.  —  Climate. — 
Houses.  — Religious  Belief.  —  Sharp  Practice.  —  Characteristics.  — 
^Vhaling. — Pleasant  Island. — Disturbance  with  the  Natives. — Shi;) 
"Mohawk." — Pitcairn's  Island. — Mutiny  of  the  "Boimty's"  Crew. — 
Death  of  Mrs.  P. — "To  my  Husband." — Massacre  atCovill's  Island. 
— Whaling  again. — A  few  stray  Thoughts  upon  that  subject. — Heavy 


CONTENTS.  IX 

Gale. — A  "Gemman  ob  Color." — His  splendid  Dress. — Passage  to 
Guam Page  198 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

Island  of  Rota. — Appearance. — Streets  and  Houses. — Inhabitants. — 
Governor. — Guam. — Umata  Bay. — Procuring  Water. — Marisa. — Its 
Appearance. — Port  of  Apia. — Fort.— Liberty. — A  splendid  Ride.— 
Boarding-houses. — Police. — Reflections. — Inhabitants. — Choppers. — 
A  cowardly  Murder. — Bombardment  of  the  Palace. — Attend  Mass. 
— Toddy. — Streets. — Houses. — Palace. — Calaboose. — Cock-fighting. 
— Seminary. — Insurrection  of  Prisoners. — Females. — Take  a  Stroll. 
— Ruins. — Reservoir. — Tobacco. — Betel  Nut. — Captain  Anderson. — 
Rebellion. — Jollification. — A  novel  Mode  of  choosing  a  Governor. — 
Congratulations. — Parade. — Aguadente. — Caroline  Islanders. — Last 
Day  on  Shore.  —  Arguing  the  Point.  —  Disamiing  the  Guard.  — 
"Where  is  my  Musket?" — ^Visit  to  the  Fort. — Strange  Doings. — 
Ready  for  Sea 222 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Bailey's  Island. — Turtle. — Whaling. — Ship  "James  Allen." — Water- 
spouts.— A  heavy  Gale. — Monotony. — A  Swimming  Adventure. — 
Ship  "Atkins  Adams." — Spanish  Jack  again. — Tow-line  Tea. — Cap- 
tain's stump  Speech. — A  large  Whale. — Bark  "Antelope." — Strange 
Incident. — Passage  to  the  Group. — Pitt's  Island. — Bark  "Smyrna." 
— A  rummy  Set. — Ship  "Susan." — Fearful  Tragedy. — Passage  to 
Strong's  Island. — Ship  "Atlantic." — Ship  "Charles  W.  Morgan." — 
"At  home"  once  more. — Rev.  Mr.  Snow. — Characteristic  Meanness. 
— Rotumah  Dance. — Feast  and  Dance. — Sickness  of  Mr.L. — Divine 
Service  on  Board. — New  Zealand  Native. — Farewell  to  Strong's  Isl- 
and   240 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Success  of  the  "Mohawk." — Ship  "Napoleon." — Whaling. — Bound  to 
the  southward. — Sickness  and  Death  of  Mr.  L. — Ship  "Roscoe." — 
Pleasant  Island. — Massacre  of  the  "Inga's"  Crew. — Narrow  Escape. 
— Ship  "Hannibal." — Christmas  and  New-Year. — Ship  "William 
Tell." — Ship  "John  Wells." — Violent  Death  of  Captain  Hussey. — 
Bound  for  Hong  Kong. — H.  B.  M.'s  Brig  "  Serpent." — Island  of  Rota. 
— Wild  Boar. — A  general  Stampede. — "All  Han'ds  and  the  Cook." 
— Man  the  Victor. — Heavy  Gales. — Gad's  Rock. — Formosa. — Bashee 
Islands 255 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

Chinese  Fishermen. — Pedro  Blanca. — Preparing  for  Port. — Chinese 
Pilots. — Beating  up  the  Passage. — Hong  Kong. — "  Hail  Columbia." 
— The  "Susquehanna." — Stars  and  Stripes. — Chinese  Merchants. — 
Washerwomen. — Bumboats. — Dick  Simpson  and  .John  Chinaman. — 


X  CONTENTS. 

Chinese  mode  of  Trading. — Sanpan. — A  floating  Community. — Bos- 
ton Jack. — Victoria,  its  Situation,  Streets,  etc. — Chinese  Barbers. — 
Fortune-tellers. — Policemen. — Chinese  New-year. — A  busy  Time. — 
Firing  a  Salute. — Arrival  of  Governor  Boxham. — English  Barracks. 
— Churches. — Hotels. — Dog  or  Horse? — Visit  from  Men-of-war's- 
men. — Tom  and  the  Lieutenant. — Commodore  Perry. — Midshipmen. 
— Visit  to  the  Barracks. — Theatre. — Fort. — Make  some  Purchases. 
— Counterfeit  Money. — Tricks  of  the  Chinese  Merchants. — Females. 
— Gambling. — Cut-throats. — Short-tailed  Gentlemen.  —  Chinese  Fu- 
neral.— Marriages. — Education. — Ouang  Ouci  Yuen. — Infanticide. — 
Twenty-second  of  February. — Chinese  Artists. — Their  Powers  of  Imi- 
tation.— Sam  Shu. — Domestic  Life  of  the  Chinese. — Food. — Temple, 
or  Joss  House. — Worship  of  Idols. — Joss  Sticks.-^Tom  as  a  Yankee 
Naval  Officer. — Chinese  Men-of-war. — Pirates. — Chinese  Theatre. — 
Masonic  Temple. — The  Bethel.  —  Chinaman  and  his  Shoes. — The 
Arrest,  Trial,  and  Acquittal. — Departure  for  Sea Page  265 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 
Fishing  Junks.  —  New  Companions.  —  Stove  Boat,  yet  good  Luck. — 
Heavy  Gales. — Bashee  Islands. — Loo  Choos. — The  "Eeaper"  again. 
— Whaling  Ship  "  Jireh  Perry." — Ship  "Alabama." — "Gamming." 
—Ship  "Koscoe."— A  Cure  for  "Bruisers."— Ship  "E.  L.B.  Jen- 
ney." — Bark  "  Empress." — Ormsby's  Peak. — ^Bonin  Islands. — Tur- 
tles.— Peel's  Island. — A  narrow  Escape. — Bonin  Island  Inhabitants. 
— Japan  Expedition. — An  old  Shipmate.  —  Another  Runaway. — 
Fourth  of  July  Celebration. — Ship  "Rambler." — Ship  "Hope." — 
Parting  with  an  old  Friend. — Fishing. — The  last  Lowering. — Bound 
for  the  Sandwich  Islands. — Maui  and  Molokai. — Lahaina. — Anchor 
down. — Description  of  Lahaina. — King's  Palace. — Lahainaluna. — 
Rules  and  Regulations. — Sports  and  Pastimes. — Letters  from  Home. 
— Productions  of  Maui. — Captain  M'CuUoch. — Sad  News. — Death 
of  Stoddard.  —  Voracity  of  the^  Shark.  — Kanaka  Church. — Small- 
pox   301 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 

Legend  of  Kinau  and  Tuanoa :  a  Tale  of  the  Sandwich  Islands. ...  332 
CHAPTER  XXVin. 

"  Homeward  bound"  at  last. — The  prevailing  Feeling. — Wauhoo  and 
Atoowi. — "Stowaways." — Farewell  to  the  Sandwich  Islands. — Ship 
"Uncas." — On  the  Equator. — ^Whytootucke. — Roratongo. — Meeting 
of  old  Friends. — Interesting  Missionary  Incidents. — A  good  Reason. 
— Grood-by  to  Roratongo. — Preparing  for  Cape  Horn. — Christmas. — 
A  heavy  Gale. — OiFCape  Horn. — New  Experiences. — In  the  Atlantic 
again. — Ship  "Betsey  Williams." — Brazilian  Coast. — North  of  the 
Line. — Hurra  for  Yankee  Land. — Brig  "Alpha." — Try-works  over- 
board. —  Scudding  off  Bermuda.  —  Gulf  Stream. — Soundings. — Old 
' '  Hard-a-lee. " — The  ol<l  Adage. — ' '  Home  at  last ! " — Conclusion  344 


LIST    OF   ILLUSTRATIONS. 


NEW  BEDFORD Frontispiece. 

NEW   BEDFORD   FROM   A    WHALEMAN'S   POINT   OF   VIEW Page  15 

THE    PILOT 19 

THE   MATE 22 

DRUG 26 

WHALING    IMPLEMENTS 27 

THE   MASTHEADMAN 30 

"give  it  TO  himI" 45 

TOWING    A    DEAD    WHALE 47 

SPERM   WHALE.... 49,  51 

RIGHT   WHALE 53 

RIGHT   WHALE    BONE '■ 55 

CUTTING    IN 58 

TRYING    OUT 63 

JUAN  FERNANDEZ,  FROM  THE    SEA 80 

PEAK   OF   TONKA 82 

CRUSOE'S   CAVE 83 

SYDENHAM    ISLAND   CANOE 100 

strong's   island 121 

strong's  island  houses 128 

strong's  island  canoe 129 

stove 159 

SPOUTS  of  the   sperm  and  right  whale 165 

head  OUT 169 

breaching 173 

A    SCHOOL 175 

USING    HIS   JAW 208 

going   down   ON   A    SCHOOL 210 

TRADING   AT   PLEASANT   ISLAND 211 

A   RACE    FOR   A   WHALE 217 

THE  "old   man"  talks 246 

ormsby's  peak 309 

"there  she  blows!" 315 

chart  of  sandwich  islands 317 

lahaina 320 

homeward  bound 346 

a  landshark 356 

just  landed 359 


LIFE   AND   ADVENTURE 

IN 

THE    SOUTH    PACIFIC. 


CHAPTER  I. 

^ew  Bedford. — Fitting  out  a  Whaler. — Shipping  a  Crew. — Green 
Hands. — Shippers. — Outfitters. — A  Sailor's  Wardrobe. — All  Hands 
on  board. — Good-by  to  Yankee  Land, — The  Pilot  taking  leave. — 
The  last  Farewell. — Captain's  Speech. — Choosing  Watches. — The 
Modus  Operandi  of  Ships'  Watches. — Sea-sickness. 

The  city  of  New  Bedford,  Mass.,  has  for  many  years 
been  the  principal  whaling-port  of  the  United  States, 
From  there  hundreds  of  young  men  have  annually  gone 
to  different  parts  of  the  world  to  battle  with  the  monsters 
of  the  deep,  and,  after  a  long  and  weary  absence  from 
home  and  friends,  returned  with  ships  "laden  with  the 
spoils,"  It  is  not  our  purpose  to  give  a  description  of 
this  far-famed  (among  whalemen)  place,  but  we  trust  it 
will  prove  interesting  to  the  reader  if  we  briefly  sketch 
the  modus  operandi  of  fitting  out  a  whaler,  and  "shipping 
a  crew,"  that  if  any  one  shall  be  tempted  to  see  the  world 
in  a  whaler,  he  may  be  put  upon  his  guard  against  some 
of  the  impositions  practiced  upon  "  green  hands"  by  the 
"shippers,"  as  they  style  themselves,  of  whaling-ports. 

In  fitting  out  a  whaler  for  a  voyage,  every  thing  is 
usually  done  as  cheaply  as  possible,  and  often  on  the 
"  penny-wise  and  pound-foolish"  plan.  With  some 
owners,  however,  we  are  happy  to  say,  it  is  different. 
They  have  a  regard  for  the  health  and  comfort  of  the 


14  LIFE   AND   ADVENTURE   IN 

ship's  company,  and  their  ships  are  generally  well  fitted, 
with  good  provisions,  good  whaling  material,  and  every- 
thing necessary  to  make  the  voyage  one  of  pleasure  and 
comfort  to  the  crew  as  well  as  profit  to  themselves.  In 
nine  cases  out  of  ten  such  ships  get  good  crews,  and 
make  profitable  voyages.  But  there  are  others  who 
are  actuated  by  a  niggardly  disposition  in  fitting  and 
provisioning  their  ships,  and  the  result  of  the  voyage,  as 
far  as  profit  is  concerned,  is  a  corresponding  one. 

After  a  ship  has  her  provisions,  water,  and  every  thing 
necessary  for  the  voyage  on  board  except  her  crew,  she 
is  "  hauled  into  the  stream,"  ready  for  sea  as  soon  as  the 
ship's  company  can  be  got  on  board,  which  generally 
occupies  a  day  or  two,  as  many  of  them  are  having 
their  last  "  spree,"  spending  their  "  advance,"  and  often 
coming  on  board  half  intoxicated.  Some  of  them,  when 
they  ship,  are  in  that  condition,  and  hardly  know,  until 
they  are  at  sea,  their  true  situation  and  how  they  came 
there.  The  majority  of  a  whaler's  crew  (foremast  hands) 
are  "  greenies,"  hardly  any  of  them  ever  having  smelt 
salt  water,  and  knowing  nothing  of  a  seaman's  fife,  its 
hardships,  its  exposures,  its  joys,  or  its  sorrows.  But 
the  poor  fellows  soon  learn,  and  many  of  them,  before 
they  have  been  clear  of  the  land  a  week,  vainly  wish 
themselves  at  home.  Many  of  them  are  picked  up  by 
"shipping  agents"  throughout  the  country,  who  send 
them  on  to  their  respective  shipping-houses  in  New 
Bedford.  They  are  then  furnished  \)j  the  shippers 
with  second  or  third  rate  boarding-houses,  the  board  to 
be  paid  out  of  their  advance.  It  is  a  common  practice 
for  the  shippers  to  make  contracts  with  owners  to  fur- 
nish them  with  so  many  "  green  hands"  at  so  much  per 
head ;  the  shipper  receiving  his  price  from  the  owner, 
and  then,  in  addition,  charging  poor  "greeny"  ten  dol- 
lars for  "  getting  him  a  ship." 

lie  is  then,  after  being  shipped  in  a  vessel  of  whose 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC-  17 

captain,  officers,  destination,  etc.,  lie  is  entirely  ignorant, 
consigned  to  the  tender  mercies  of  the  "  outfitter,"  who 
is  to  furnish  his  wardrobe  for  a  five  years'  voyage.  The 
poor  fellow  is  here  sadly  taken  in.  The  outfitter  will 
spin  him  a  nice  yarn,  and  promise  him  a  splendid  outfit, 
"  enough  to  last  him  the  whole  voyage,"  which  he  man- 
ages to  postpone  giving  him  until  the  ship  is  just  ready 
to  sail,  when  he  will  "fit  him  out"  with  a  wooden  box, 
made  of  pine  boards,  which  he  calls  a  chest,  size  about 
seven  by  nine,  with  perhaps  a  broken  lock,  and  "stowed" 
with  his  five  years'  clothing.  As  a  general  thing,  this 
clothing  is  made  in  such  a  manner  and  of  such  material 
that  it  gives  out  before  the  ship  gets  into  the  Pacific, 
and  the  "slop-chest"  is  resorted  to  for  a  new  supply. 
It  is  a  common  remark  among  whalemen  who  have 
been  "  bit,"  that  the  cloth  is  "  made  of  bull's  wool  and 
dog's  hair,  woven  together  by  thunder  and  lightning," 
The  "  five  years'  supply"  generally  consists  of  two  red 
or  blue  woolen  shirts,  two  under-shirts,  two  pairs  of 
drawers,  one  pair  of  woolen  pants,  one  round-jacket,  one 
monkey-jacket,  two  pairs  of  thin  pants,  two  "hickory" 
shirts,  a  sou'wester  or  tarpaulin,  two  pairs  of  stockings, 
one  pair  of  shoes,  a  jack-knife,  comb,  looking-glass,  paper 
of  needles,  one  quarter-pound  of  thread,  five  pounds  of 
tobacco,  a  keg  of  oil  soap,  a  tin  cup,  pan,  and  spoon, 
mattress,  pillow,  and  blankets.  For  this  lot  of  stuff  the 
outfitter  charges  the  moderate  sum  of  seventy-five  dol- 
lars, draws  an  order  for  that  amount  upon  the  owners, 
and,  just  as  the  ship  is  to  sail,  tells  the  "greeny"  he  must 
sign  it,  or  he  can't  go  in  the  ship.  Many  times  he  is 
urged  to,  and  often  does,  sign  an  order,  the  amount  of 
which  is  left  blank ;  and,  after  the  ship  sails,  the  out- 
fitter fills  the  blank  to  suit  himself.  The  poor  victim  is 
thus  completely  in  their  power,  and  they  know  it,  and 
act  accordingly.  There  are  exceptions,  of  course ;  some 
men  are  engaged  in  the  business  who  would  scorn  to  do 


18     '  LIFE  AKD  ADVENTURE  IN 

a  mean  action,  but,  generally,  the  outfitters  of  New  Bed- 
ford are,  politely  speaking,  gentlemen  robbers. 

Our  ship  was  to  sail  on  the  23d  of  October,  18 — , 
Accordingly,  on  the  morning  of  that  day,  every  thing 
on  board  was  in  a  glorious  state  of  confusion.  Chests, 
bundles,  bedding,  etc.,  were  strewn  about  the  decks  un- 
til the  lawful  owners  should  take  charge  of  them. 

As  soon  as  the  crew  were  all  on  board,  orders  were 
given  to  "  man  the  windlass,"  and  in  a  few  moments  the 
anchor  was  on  the  bow,  and  our  last  hold  on  American 
soil  broken.  Many  an  hour  must  pass,  and  many  a  mile 
of  the  blue  wave  be  plowed,  ere  we  could  again  drop 
our  anchor  in  this  port.  The  captain  now  came  on 
board,  accompanied  by  his  wife  and  son,  the  huge  sails 
were  loosed,  and  we  left  the  city  of  New  Bedford  with 
fine  breezes  and  pleasant  weather;  many  of  us  with 
gloomy  forebodings,  vainly  endeavoring  to  penetrate 
the  dim  veil  of  the  future  and  conjecture  as  to  whether 
we  should  be  spared  again  to  tread  our  native  shores ; 
again  to  clasp  in  our  embrace  those  dear  friends  we 
were  leaving  behind  us  sorrowing.  But  the  future  was 
all  shrouded  in  mystery,  and  we  could  but  sigh  fare- 
well, and  place  our  trust  in  Him  who  "doeth  all  things 
well." 

As  we  are  now  at  sea,  the  pilot  takes  his  leave,  with 
those  who  have  come  off  to  bid  adieu  to  their  brothers, 
sons,  friends,  etc. ;  and  now  the  weather-beaten  tar  as 
well  as  the  green  hand  brushes  away  a  tear,  as  they  bid 
a  long  farewell  to  happy  homes;  and  as  their  native 
shores  gradually  sink  behind  the  wave,  all  appear  to  be 
suddenly  impressed  with  the  loneliness  of  their  situa- 
tion, and  the  dangers  they  have  to  encounter  and  over- 
come ere  they  again  behold  the  dear  ones  at  home. 

At  about  6  P.M.  the  captain  came  on  deck,  called 
all  hands  aft,  and  made  a  short  speech,  the  substance  of 
which  was  that,  "  as  long  as  they  behaved  themselves. 


THE   SOUTH   PACIFIC.  23 

they  should  receive  good  treatment,  should  have  plenty 
to  eat  and  drink,  and  a  regular  watch  below ;  that  they 
were  to  go  when  told,  come  when  called,  and  that  with- 
out grumbling ;  and  if  any  of  them  should  act  contrary 
to  this,  they  would  find  they  had  come  to  the  wrong 
place ;  that  there  were  some  thirty  of  the  crew,  and  he 
but  one,  and  it  was  utterly  impossible  for  him  to  do  ev- 
ery thing  to  please  so  many  different  minds,  yet  it  was 
perfectly  easy  for  them  to  so  conduct  themselves  as  to 
suit  him ;  and,"  he  adds,  "  let  every  person  sweep  his 
own  door  clean  and  mind  his  own  affairs,  and  there  will 
be  no  difficulty ;  but  if  not,  look  out  for  '  breakers :'  in 
fine,  he  hopes  there  will  no  trouble,  and  in  forty  months 
to  be  sailing  up  Buzzard's  Bay  with  a  full  ship." 

The  captain  and  chief  mate  then  proceeded  to  choose 
watches.  Of  the  modus  operandi  of  ships'  "  watches"  we 
presume  a  great  many  are  conversant ;  but,  for  the  ben- 
efit of  those  who  are  not,  we  will  here  relate  it.  The 
ship's  company  is  first  divided  into  two  equal  portions, 
called  the  larboard,  or  mate's  watch,  and  the  starboard, 
or  captain's  watch,  which  is  commanded,  or,  technically 
speaking,  "headed"  by  the  second  mate.  At  8  P.M. 
the  "  watch  is  set,"  one  watch  remaining  on  deck,  and 
the  other  going  below  until  twelve.  They  then  change, 
those  on  deck  going  below,  and  remaining  until  4  A.M., 
when  they  again  change  for  four  hours  more,  until  eight. 
At  that  time  they  are  again  changed,  the  watch  that  had 
"  eight  hours  out"  having  the  "  forenoon  watch  below," 
from  8  till  12  M. ;  and  in  the  afternoon  the  watch  that 
had  but  "four  hours  out"  the  night  before  have  the  aft- 
ernoon watch  below,  from  12  to  4  P.M.  The  time  from 
4  to  8  P.M.  is  divided  into  two  short  watches,  called 
"  dog-watches,"  for  the  purpose  of  regulating  or  keep- 
ing them  in  proper  succession.  For  instance  :  the  lar- 
board watch  is  on  deck  from  8  P.M.  to  12 ;  the  star- 
board from  12  to  4  A.M. ;  the  larboard  from  4  to  8 


24  LIFE   AND   ADVENTURE   IN 

xV.M. ;  the  starboard  from  8  A.M.  to  12  M. ;  the  larboard 
from  12  to  4  P.M. ;  the  starboard  from  4  to  6  P.M.,  and 
the  larboard  from  6  to  8  P.M.,  when  the  watch  is  set. 
They  are  thus  changed  every  night,  one  having  eight 
hours  on  deck  and  four  below  one  night,  and  the  next 
vice  versa,  continuing  thus  for  the  voyage. 

It  being  8  o'clock,  eight  bells  were  struck,  and  one 
watch  was  sent  below.  About  this  time  the  majority 
of  us  landlubbers  were  paying  tribute  to  old  Father  Nep- 
tune— casting  up  our  accounts — and  it  mattered  very  lit- 
tle to  some  of  us  whether  the  ship  went  up  or  down. 

Of  all  the  miserable  beings  in  the  world,  the  sea-sick 
"  greeny"  is  the  most  miserable.  Those  who  have  been 
sea-sick  can  appreciate  his  situation  when  we  tell  them 
that,  in  addition  to  the  feeling  produced  by  the  sickness, 
he  is  made  the  butt  and  laughing-stock  of  those  around 
him  who  escape  the  infliction.  Those  who  have  never 
experienced  this  sickness  can  not  appreciate  the  bless- 
ing of  having  escaped  it,  and  we  will  not  attempt,  there- 
fore, to  describe  it.  However,  to  use  a  homely  expres- 
sion, when  one  is  really  sea-sick,  good  and  strong,  he 
"  doesn't  care  whether  school  keeps  or  not !" 


THE  SOUTH   PACIFIC.  26 


CHAPTER  II. 

Sick  of  the  Sea.— Description  of  the  Boats  and  Whaling  Apparatus. — 
Boat-headers. — Boat-steerers. — Mastheads. — The  first  Whale. — 
"There  she  blows!" — All  hands  excited. — Lowering  the  Boats. — 
"  Pull,  every  man  of  you." — A  Fisherman's  Luck. — Whales  again. — 
Cape  Verd  Islands.— St.  Antonio.— St.  Jago.— Fogo,  the  Island  of 
Fire. — Going  ashore. — A  noisy  Crowd.  —  Tom  and  the  Portugee 
Donkey. — Manuel. — Now  for  Cape  Horn. 

It  blew  very  fresh  tlirougli  tlie  night,  and  could  the 
old  ship  have  come  to  an  anchor  about  this  time,  we 
hardly  think  many  of  the  "  green  hands"  would  have 
remained  on  board.  But  it  was  of  no  avail  now  to  com- 
plain ;  all  were  in  for  it,  and  must  take  the  evil  with  the 
good  from  this  time  until  the  end  of  the  voyage. 

Nothing  worthy  of  note  transpired,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  occasionally  seeing  a  sail,  until  "Wednesday,  No- 
vember 31st,  being  about  five  weeks  out,  when  we  saw 
our  first  sperm  whale.  But  before  we  lower  the  boats 
and  capture  this  fellow,  let  us  make  the  reader  acquaint- 
ed as  much  as  possible  with  our  boats  and  whaling  ap- 
paratus. 

Our  ship  carried  four  boats  on  the  cranes,  besides  four 
more  spare  ones  in  case  of  accident,  such  as  a  boat  being 
stove,  etc.  They  are  built  in  a  manner  to  enable  them 
to  stand  a  very  heavy  sea,  and  at  the  same  time  very 
light  and  buoyant ;  about  twenty-five  feet  in  length  and 
four  in  breadth,  and  sharp  at  both  ends,  for  motion  in 
either  direction  without  turning.  Near  the  stern  of  the 
boat  is  placed  a  strong,  upright,  round  piece  of  wood,  a 
little  one  side  from  the  centre,  which  is  termed  the  "  log- 
gerhead." The  whale-line  passes  two  or  three  times 
around  this  when  running  out  of  the  boat.    At  the  head 

B 


26 


LIFE   AND   Ain'ENTURE-lN 


or  bow  is  a  groove,  exactly  in  the  centre,  througli  whicli 
the  line  passes  when  taken  out  by  the  whale.  In  each 
boat  are  two  tubs,  containing  each  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  fathoms,  or  eighteen  hundred  feet  altogether  in 
length,  of  the  best  Manilla  tow-line,  very  carefully  coiled, 
that  it  may  run  out  perfectly  clear  and  free ;  for  such  is 
the  velocity  of  its  egress  sometimes  that,  should  any 
thing  obstruct  its  free  passage,  the  boat,  with  all  its  con- 
tents, would  be  immediately  drawn  under  the  surface. 
There  are  also  five  or  six  harpoons,  three  lances,  a  keg, 
called  the  lantern-keg,  containing  a  lantern  with  candles, 
matches,  tinder,  bread,  pipes,  and  tobacco,  that  the  boat's 
crew  may  have  something  with  which  to  sustain  nature 
in  case  of  being  off  in  the  night-time,  or  losing  the  ship 
in  the  day-time ;  a  waif,  which  is  a  small  flag  fastened  to 
a  pole,  to  be  inserted  in  the  dead  whale,  as  a  signal  to 
the  ship  that  it  is  a  "  dead  fish ;"  one  or  two  drugs, 
which  are  pieces  of  plank  about  a  foot  or  eighteen 
inches  in  diameter,  with  a  centre-post,  and  short  line 
attached,  by  which  they  are  fastened  to  the  whale-line, 
sei-ving  to  check  the  speed  of  the  whale  in  sounding  or 
running. 


Each  boat  is  commanded  by  one  of  the  officers  of 
the  ship,  who  is  styled  "boat-header;"  the  captain  com- 
manding the  starboard  boat,  the  first  mate  the  larboard 


^ 


V 


il 


Dipper. 


Oil  Dipper. 


Pike. 


THK   MASTHKAHMAN. 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  31 

boat,  the  second  mate  the  waist  boat,  and  the  third  mate 
the  bow  boat ;  and  thej  are  manned  each  by  a  crew  of 
five,  one  of  whom  is  the  harpooner,  or  "  boat-steerer." 
All  four  boats  are  used  in  the  chase,  the  race  often  be- 
coming exciting  as  to  which  shall  be  the  "  first  boat 
fast." 

From  the  commencement  of  the  voyage  to  its  close 
men  are  stationed  at  each  masthead,  on  the  look-out  for 
whales,  and  are  relieved  every  two  hours.  When  a 
whale  is  seen  by  any  one  of  the  men  aloft,  he  imme- 
diately sings  out  in  a  peculiar  voice,  "  There  she  blows  I" 
and  repeats  it  as  often  as  the  whale  spouts.  The  of&cer 
of  the  deck  immediately  cries  out,  "Where  away?"  and 
the  look-out  replies,  giving  the  direction  of  the  whale 
from  the  ship.  The  ofl&cer  again  asks,  "  How  far  off?" 
The  distance  is  given,  and,  in  a  shorter  space  of  time 
than  is  occupied  in  relating  it,  the  captain  is  at  mast- 
head with  his  spy-glass.  As  soon  as  he  ascertains  the 
fact  that  they  are  sperm  whales,  he  sings  out,  "  Call  all 
hands;  get  the  boats  ready,  and  stand  by  to  lower;"  at 
the  same  time  giving  directions  to  the  man  at  the  wheel 
to  keep  the  ship  in  the  proper  direction. 

It  is  impossible  to  describe  the  excitement  that  now 
prevails.  All  are  anxious  to  obtain  a  glimpse,  many 
for  the  first  time,  of  the  monster.  The  lethargy  pro- 
duced by  the  hitherto  monotonous  voyage  is  now  shak- 
en off,  and  one  and  all  partake  of  the  excitement.  All 
is  bustle  and  animation;  some  are  at  masthead,  some 
are  in  the  rigging,  and  others  flying  around,  getting  the 
boats  in  perfect  order,  and  ready  to  be  lowered  at  a  mo- 
ment's notice.  If  the  whale  is  to  the  leeward  of  the 
ship,  she  is  kept  in  that  direction ;  if  to  windward,  the 
boats  are  sent  in  chase,  which  often  proves  to  be  an  ar- 
duous task.  In  this  instance  the  whale  was  to  the  lee- 
ward. When  we  were  within  proper  distance,  the  cap- 
tain coming  down,  called  out,  "  Haul  aback  the  main- 


82  LIFE  Am)  ADVENTURE  IN 

yards ;  lower  away  the  boats,"  and  the  respective  crews 
follow  them  down.  In  a  moment  more  they  are  pull- 
ing for  the  whale.  From  hour  to  hour,  and  often  from 
sunrise  to  sunset,  do  these  hardy  men  toil  at  the  oar,  en- 
during suffering  and  fatigue,  almost  unnoticed  under 
the  eager  excitement  of  the  chase,  to  be  the  head  boat, 
or  the  "first  boat  fast;"  and  this  under  a  scorching 
tropical  sun.  The  waist  boat  draws  near  the  whale, 
and  all  is  excitement;  the  officer  crying  out,  "Pull, 
men,  do  pull ;  now,  my  hearties,  give  way ;  oh !  men,  do 
pull;  I'll  give  you  any  thing  I've  got,  only  put  me 
alongside  that  whale ;  there  he  blows ;  only  three  seas 
off,"  etc.  The  boat  is  close  to  him ;  it  draws  nearer  and 
nearer;  the  officer  orders  the  boat-steerer  to  "stand 
up ;"  he  rises  in  his  place  and  lifts  the  fatal  weapon ; 
and,  when  the  boat  is  close  enough,  the  order  is  given, 
"Give  it  to  him;  give  it  to  him,  I  tell  you!"  The 
boat-steerer  darts  and  misses  him,  and  the  whale  is 
"  gallied,"  or  frightened,  and  takes  French  leave.  Thus 
ended  our  first  chase  after  a  whale,  as  did  many  more 
during  the  voyage,  and,  after  having  pulled  nearly  all 
day,  they  returned  to  the  ship,  all  hands  disappointed, 
but  the  captain  cheering  us  with  "better  luck  next 
time."  Having  thus  disposed  of  our  "first  whale,"  we 
kept  on  our  course,  steering  southeast,  for  the  Cape 
Verd  Islands. 

On  Tuesday,  November  27th,  we  again  saw  sperm 
whales,  lowered  all  the  boats  in  chase,  but  they  were 
going  too  fast  for  us,  and,  pulling  a  long  time  with  no 
success,  gave  up  and  came  on  board. 

The  next  day  we  saw  the  island  of  St.  Antonio,  and 
ran  in  toward  the  land.  The  inhabitants  of  this  island, 
like  all  others  of  the  Cape  Verd  group,  are  Portuguese. 
They  subsist  principally  on  the  yam,  sweet  potato,  co- 
coanut,  banana,  orange,  etc.,  and  fish ;  live  in  nearly  a 
nude  state ;  are,  as  a  general  thing, 'treacherous,  thiev- 


THE   SOUTH  PACIFIC.  33 

ing,  ignorant,  and  superstitious.     The  Eoman  Catholic 
religion  is  the  only  one  tolerated. 

On  Thursday,  the  29th,  we  passed  the  island  of  St. 
Jago,  another  of  the  same  group.  We  were  now  steer- 
ing for  Fogo,  which,  on  the  following  morning  at  day- 
break, we  saw  distant  about  nine  miles.  On  this  island 
is  a  volcano,  whose  summit  is  one  and  a  quarter  miles 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  From  this  volcano  the  isl- 
and derives  its  name,  "  Fogo,  the  Island  of  Fire,"  Some 
years  since  an  eruption  took  place,  which  destroyed 
most  of  the  vegetation,  and  many  of  the  inhabitants  lost 
their  lives.  Those  that  escaped  took  boats  and  pro- 
ceeded to  the  island  of  Bravo,  a  few  miles  distant.  Our 
captain  sent  two  of  our  boats  in  to  the  shore,  for  the 
purpose  of  trading  with  the  natives,  exchanging  calico, 
beads,  looking-glasses,  trinkets,  etc.,  for  various  fruits. 
The  opportunity  now  being  given  us  of  visiting  dry 
land  once  more,  we  accepted  it  joyfully.  As  we  drew 
in  near  to  the  shore,  the  island  presented  a  beautiful  ap- 
pearance ;  the  mountains  and  hills  were  covered  with 
green  verdure;  the  natives  were  seen  flocking  down 
their  sides,  some  loaded  with  baskets  of  fruit  of  various 
kinds,  some  driving  a  miserable-looking  donkey  before 
them,  with  a  basket  of  fruit  on  one  side  and  a  pig  on 
the  other;  here,  too,  might  be  seen  a  great  strapping 
Portuguese  woman,  with  a  pig  over  her  shoulder,  shout- 
ing as  loud  as  her  burden  squealed,  and  all  hallooing  to 
the  boats ;  the  waves  breaking  over  the  reef  in  thunder 
tones,  and  all  together  creating  one  of  the  wildest  scenes 
of  confusion  we  have  ever  witnessed.  We  finally  found, 
after  pulling  along  the  shore  for  some  distance,  an  open- 
ing in  the  reef,  where  we  might  land  without  danger  of 
getting  our  boats  stove  to  pieces,  and  pulled  in.  As 
soon  as  we  landed  we  were  surrounded  by  nearly  two 
hundred  Portuguese,  and  a  scene  now  ensued  that  beg- 
gars description.     Imagine  a  flock  of  two  hundred  birds, 

B2 


34  LIFE  AND   ADVENTURE   IN 

all  cliattering,  about  fifty  hogs  squealing,  goats  bleating, 
donkeys  braying,  and  sailors  shouting  and  laughing,  and 
you  have  some  faint  idea  of  the  real  scene.  Some  of 
our  men,  too,  went  in  for  a  little  fun.  One  of  them, 
Tom  W.,  a  regular  wag,  managed  to  steal  a  Portu- 
guese's donkey  for  a  short  ride  up  the  mountaiil  and 
back.  When  he  returned,  the  donkey's  master  wanted 
the  moderate  sum  of  seven  dollars  for  the  use  of  the 
animal,  Tom  told  him  he  would  give  him  his  note  for 
ten  years ;  but  the  Gee  would  not  be  satisfied,  until,  a 
crowd  gathering  around,  the  matter  was  finally  compro- 
mised by  Tom's  buying  his  basket  of  oranges,^  contain- 
ing, perhaps,  a  hundred,  for  which  he  gave  him  about 
one  eighth  of  a  pound  of  tobacco. 

In  the  afternoon  we  returned  to  the  ship,  our  boats 
loaded  with  fruit.  We  also  brought  off  with  us  a  wild 
Portugee,  who  was  determined,  in  spite  of  the  remon- 
strances of  our  officers,  to  "  see  the  elephant."  He  could 
not  speak  a  word  of  English,  and  seemed  to  look  on  all 
the  proceedings  on  board  ship  with  a  great  deal  of  com- 
ical dignity  and  interest.  He  made  the  captain  under- 
stand by  signs  that  he  wished  to  go  the  voyage.  Ac- 
cordingly they  soon  struck  a  bargain,  and  Manuel  be- 
came a  member  of  the  ship's  company.  He  was  fur- 
nished with  a  couple  of  suits  of  clothes,  Tom  W. 
gravely  remarking  that  "  it  was  the  first  suit  of  clothes 
that  was  ever  in  the  family,"  and  sent  forward.  He 
was  of  noble  build,  being  six  feet  three  inches  high,  and 
well  proportioned.  He  soon,  however,  was  obliged  to 
"  cast  up  his  accounts,"  and  we  never  saw  a  more  pitia- 
ble-looking object  than  sea-sick  Portugee  Manuel ;  and, 
while  many  of  the  crew  were  passing  jokes  upon  him, 
he  looked  as  if  he  fully  believed  he  had  fallen  into  the 
hands  of  barbarians. 

From  this  island  we  shaped  our  course  for  Cape  Horn. 


THE   SOUTH    PACIFIC.  35 


CHAPTER  III. 

Our  Captain. — Officers. — Boat-steerers. — Foremast  Hands. — Jo  Bob. 
— Sailor's  Fare. — The  Cask  of  Pies. — Mackey. — Lawrence  asleep. 

The  ship  being  by  tbis  time  "  sbip-sbape  and  Bristol 
fashion,"  and  the  crew  pretty  well  acquainted  with  each 
other,  we  will  give  a  brief  description  of  the  officers  and 
crew.  Our  captain  is  a  man  of  about  fifty,  and  has 
"  beat  the  wash"  for  the  past  twenty-six  years.  He  is  a 
thorough  sailor,  a  skillful  navigator,  and  an  impartial 
and  decisive  judge,  and  one  who  commands  the  respect 
of  both  officers  and  crew.  His  lady  is  an  agreeable,  in- 
telligent woman,  well  fitted  to  be  the  wife  of  such  a 
man ;  his  son,  a  lad  of  about  ten  years,  a  smart,  active 
boy,  and  cut  out  for  a  sailor. 

Our  chief  mate,  Mr.  C,  is  a  seaman  of  the  first  water, 
one  thoroughly  versed  in  the  mysteries  of  sailorship, 
prompt  and  efficient,  kind  and  obliging,  and,  above  all, 
a  most  skillful  whaleman. 

Our  second  officer,  Mr.  L.,  is  also  an  excellent  seaman, 
an  experienced  whaleman,  and  one  whom  the  whole 
ship's  company  love,  for  he  is  a  good  man,  and  to  them 
all  a  kind  friend. 

Quite  the  contrary  is  our  third  officer,  Mr.  K.  He  is 
a  pompous,  windy  sort  of  a  being,  who  knows  more 
than  the  captain  and  all  hands,  and  one  whom  the  men 
detest. 

Our  fourth  officer,  Mr.  F.,  is  a  fine  jovial  fellow,  as 
smart  as  a  steel  trap,  and  perfectly  at  home  on  board 
ship.     He  is  also  an  excellent  whaleman. 

The  boat-steerers  are  good-natured  boys,  always  ready 
in  the  discharge  of  their  duties ;  and  the  cooper,  a  quiet, 


36  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

peaceable  man,  who  attends  to  his  own  business,  which 
he  thoroughly  understands,  and  does  not  trouble  him- 
self with  other  people's. 

The  crew  represent  most  of  the  states  of  the  Union, 
England,  and  France.  We  have  with  us,  also,  a  Kanaka, 
a  native  of  the  island  of  Eoratongo,  one  of  the  Society 
Islands ;  a  good-natured,  lazy  fellow,  with  but  one  eye, 
who  goes  by  the  very  expressive  name  of  Jo  Bob.  He 
speaks  but  little  English,  and  that  so  broken  as  to  make 
it  difficult  to  understand  him  ;  nevertheless,  in  the  first 
watch  at  night,  he  takes  our  wild  Portuguese  on  the 
heel  of  the  bowsprit,  and  endeavors  to  teach  him  En- 
glish., and  rather  comical  work  they  make  of  it.  Most 
of  the  mechanical  trades  we  find  represented  among  our 
crew,  as  well  as  the  professions,  and  the  "art  preserva- 
tive of  all  arts."  One  or  two,  from  their  appearance 
and  conversation,  would  lead  a  person  to  suppose  they 
had  never  before  been  beyond  the  boundaries  of  a  cow 
pasture.  Some  have  been  driven  to  the  sea  to  escape 
the  consequence  of  rascalities  at  home ;  others  from  fam- 
ily difficulties;  some  have  come  to  sea  to  repair  their 
broken  health ;  a  few  have  run  away  from  home  to  es- 
cape the  fancied  tyrannies  of  parents,  and  still  others 
from  an  inclination  to  follow  the  sea  and  a  love  of  ad- 
venture; and  all  have  come  to  a  good  school,  in  one 
sense  of  the  word.  Shut  out  from  all  society;  pre- 
scribed to  a  certain  portion  of  the  ship;  to  go  when 
told,  come  when  called,  and  that  without  grumbling; 
put  upon  sailor's  fare,  which  generally  consists  of  coffee 
and"  tea,  without  milk  or  sugar,  and  sea-bread,  with  cold 
salt  pork,  for  breakfast,  beef  and  pork  for  dinner,  with 
"  duff"  for  dessert — and  we  will  give  a  brief  description 
of  this  beautiful  dish :  Take  flour,  which  has  previously 
been  dug  out  of  a  cask  with  mallet  and  chisel,  and  then 
pounded  fine,  mix  it  with  water  to  the  consistency  of  a 
paste,  and  then  "dump"  it  into  a  canvas  bag,  and  boil 


THE   SOUTH   PACIFIC.  37 

for  three  hours,  with  about  the  third  quality  of  West 
India  molasses,  well  diluted  with  water,  for  sauce,  and 
you  have  the  sailor's  delicacy — "duff!"  This  food, 
with  the  manner  of  living,  generally  brings  them  to 
their  senses ;  they  begin  to  realize  the  comforts  and 
blessings  of  a  good  home,  and  make  the  important  dis- 
covery that  their  wisdom  is  not  quite  so  extensive  as 
Solomon's,  and  that  they  were  sadly  mistaken  in  sup- 
posing they  knew  more  than  their  parents.  If  any 
young  men  who  may  chance  to  read  this  book  should 
have  a  longing  for  the  sea  and  all  its  pleasures,  we  will 
inform  them  how  they  may  obtain  a  slight  foretaste  of 
those  joys.  Let  them  choose  a  dark,  cold,  rainy  night, 
such  as  we  often  have  in  the  month  of  November,  and 
be  roused  suddenly  out  of  a  snug,  cozy  sleep,  mount 
into  the  top  of  the  tallest  tree  they  can  find,  and  there 
stand  and  endure  the  pitiless  beatings  of  the  storm  for 
four  long  hours,  and  we  think  they  will  get  a  slight  fore- 
taste of  the  joys  of  a  sailor's  life.  '  But  still,  whenever 
we  have  been  asked  the  question  by  such,  we  say,  "Go, 
by  all  means,  and  then  you  will  be  satisfied."  The  old 
adage  proves  true  here  as  well  as  elsewhere,  "Experi- 
ence is  a  dear  school." 

We  will  here  give  one  or  two  anecdotes  in  relation 
to  life  on  shipboard,  which  will  serve  to  illustrate  the 
tricks  and  games  often  practiced.  We  had  with  us,  by 
some  means  unaccountable,  a  young  fellow  from  Taun- 
ton, Mass.,  a  lazy,  half-foolish,  soft  piece  of  humanity,  to 
whom  we  soon  gave  the  dignified  appellation  of  "  Bar- 
ney." When  only  a  few  days  out,  and  Barney  was  par- 
tially recovering  from  his  sea-sickness,  the  poor  fellow, 
missing  the  accustomed  good  things  at  home,  and  not 
relishing  the  hard  fare  of  ship-life,  complained  sadly  of 
his  want  of  appetite;  that  he  could  not  relish  the  fat 
salt  pork  and  hard  bread  which  he  was  obliged  to  eat. 
One  of  the  old  seamen,  who  are  always  up  to  such  jokes. 


38  LIFE  AND  ADVENTUKE  IN  '       "" 

said  to  him,  "  Why;  Bamey,  you  fool,  why  don't  you  go 
and  ask  the  captain  or  mate  to  break  out  that  cask  of 
pies  that  they  have  got  in  the  main  hold,  and  give  you 
one?  they  were  put  on  board  expressly  for  the  green 
hands  when  recovering  from  their  sea-sickness." 

"  Cash  of  pies  r  replied  Barney,  opening  his  eyes  and 
mouth  wide  with  astonishment.  "  Is  there  a  cask  of 
pies  aboard  ?" 

"  Certainly,"  replied  his  tormentor,  "  and  it  was  put 
aboard  on  purpose  for  the  green  hands,  and  you're  a 
fool  if  you  don't  go  and  tell  the  old  man*  you  want 
some." 

So  off  Barney  posts  aft  to  the  captain  and  mate,  who 
were  walking  the  quarter-deck  together.  It  was  not 
long  before  he  returned  to  the  forecastle,  his  counte- 
nance considerably  elongated,  and  feeling  very  much 
crestfallen. 

"What's  the  matter,  Bamey ?  Didn't  you  get  any 
pies  ?" 

"  iVb,  I  didn't  get  any  pies,  and  there  ain't  any  aboard 
the  ship  either,  and  you  knew  there  was  not." 

"  Why,  what  did  the  old  man  say?" 

"  He  said  that  some  one  was  making  a  fool  of  me, 
and  if  I  came  to  him  after  any  more  pies  he  would  stop 
my  watch  below  for  the  whole  cruise." 

Poor  Bamey  was  obliged  to  submit,  not  only  to  sail- 
or's food,  but  to  be  one  of  the  butts  of  the  ship's  com- 
pany for  the  voyage. 

We  had  on  board  a  fellow  from  Nova  Scotia  by  the 
name  of  Mackey.  It  was  the  dehght  of  some  of  the 
watch  to  "stuff"  Mackey  with  all  sorts  of  imaginable 
stories  on  divers  subjects,  and  to  get  the  poor  fellow, 
who  was  very  credulous  withal,  into  some  scrape.  One 
night,  when  it  was  blowing  very  hard,  and  the  ship  1}^- 
ing-to  under  easy  sail,  rolling  heavily,  some  one  of  the 

*  The  captain. 


THE  SOUTH   PACIFIC.  89 

watcli  told  Mackey  to  place  a  handspike  in  one  of  the 
lee  scupper-holes  to  prevent  the  ship  rolling  so  badly. 
Off  posts  Mackey  for  a  handspike,  but,  finding  none,  he 
contented  himself  with  using  a  scrub-broom  handle, 
which  he  placed  in  the  scupper-hole,  and  commenced 
jumping  upon  it,  until  he  finally  broke  it.  The  ofl&cer 
of  the  watch  espied  him,  and  sang  out, 

"  What  are  you  about  there,  you  Mackey  ?" 

"Stopping  the  old  ship  from  rolling,  sir." 

"  Well,  I  guess  you  have  worked  at  that  about  long 
enough ;  now  point  yourself  aloft,  and  try  your  hand  at 
slushing  down  the  masts ;  away  you  go !" 

Poor  Mackey  starts  off,  grumbling  that  they  should 
give  him  a  work-up  job  for  trying  to  stop  the  ship  from 
pitching  about  so.  He  gets  up  aloft,  and  finds  rather  a 
difiicult  job  before  him, 

"How  shall  I  hang  on,  sir?" 

"  By  your  eyelids." 

"  But  I  can't  do  it,  sir." 

"  Then  let  go;  probably  the  deck  will  bring  you  up." 

As  thi^  is  all  the  consolation  Mackey  gets,  he  goes  to 
work,  muttering  all  sorts  of  invectives  against  whale- 
ships  and  mean  men,  and  wishing  them  all  in  Tophet, 
and  that  he  was  at  home,  down  in  Nova  Scotia,  and 
guesses  he  would  not  trouble  salt  water  again. 

Our  pompous  third  ofiicer  was  very  much  opposed  to 
allowing  the  men  to  sit  down  in  the  night  watches,  for 
fear  they  should  take  a  short  nap  now  and  then.  We 
had  one  fellow  on  board  who  was  one  of  the  laziest  fel- 
lows in  existence,  so  very  lazy  that  before  we  were  two 
weeks  out  he  had  received  the  appropriate  sobriquet 
of  "  Lazy  Lawrence."  He  possessed,  in  addition  to  the 
excellent  trait  of  character  above  mentioned,  that  of  be- 
ing the  most  inveterate  liar  ever  known,  and  at  the 
same  time  the  greatest  sleepyhead  on  board.  As  soon 
as  he  would  come  on  deck  in  the  middle,  or  morning 


40  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

■watch,  he  would  invariably  bring  himself  to  an  anchor 
somewhere,  and  then — he  was  fast  asleep.  One  night 
one  of  the  crew,  stationed  on  the  look-out,  espied  him, 
and,  thinking  to  have  a  little  sport,  goes. aft  to  the  bin- 
'nacle  lamp  (which  is  the  lamp  that  gives  the  light  to 
the  helmsman  at  night),  covered  his  hands  with  oily 
smut,  and,  coming  forward  to  the  place  where  Lawrence 
was  so  quietly  reposing,  probably  dreaming  of  his  home, 
"  'way  down  East,  in  the  State  of  Maine,"  and  the  farm, 
drew  both  hands  very  quietly  across  the  poor  fellow's 
face  several  times,  giving  him  very  much  the  appear- 
ance of  a  molasses-colored  darkey.  Next  morning  all 
hands  were  called  to  go  through  the  usual  process  of 
washing  decks,  etc.  Lawrence,  making  his  appearance 
with  the  rest,  presented  a  comical  spectacle.  All  hands 
roared  with  laughter ;  he,  not  imagining  what  was  the 
cause  of  their  merriment,  joined  in.  At  last  the  chief 
mate,  who  had  an  inkling  of  the  matter,  sang  out, 

"  What  is  the  matter  with  you  this  morning,  Law- 
rence; are  you  sick?" 

"iSTo,  thir,"  lisped  Lawrence. 

"  I  guess  you  got  asleep  during  your  watch  last  night, 
did  you  not?" 

"  No,  thir ;  I  never  closed  my  eyes  the  whole  watch !" 

"  Don't  lie  to  me ;  what  were  you  doing  on  the  wind- 
lass, just  after  four  bells?" 

"  Only  thinking,  thir." 

"  There,  that  will  do ;  go  wash,  and  point  yourself 
aloft,  and  stay  there  till  I  call  you  down ;  and  learn, 
when  I  ask  you  a  question,  to  tell  the  truth ;  away  you 
go!" 

So  away  goes  Lawrence,  imagining  himself  the  most 
abused  man  in  existence,  and  says  a  state  prison  would 
be  preferable  to  an  old  blubber-hunter.  After  he  had 
been  kept  aloft  two  or  three  hours,  he  was  called  down, 
told  to  tell  the  truth  after  this,  and  sent  about  his  busi- 
ness. 


THE  SOUTH   PACIFIC.  41 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Crossing  the  Equator. — Barney  looking  for  the  "Line." — Spoke  Ship 
"Java." — Spoke  Ship  "Ontario,"  homeward  bound. — "Writing  Let- 
ters Home  "under  DifRcuUies." — Sperm  Whales  again. — A  Fast 
Boat. — The  Red  Flag. — The  Flurry. — The  Fluke-chain  passed. 

On  the  13th  of  December,  18 — ,  we  crossed  the  equator 
in  longitude  24°  30'  west.  The  weather  was  delightful ; 
pleasant  breezes  and  sunshine ;  the  heat  not  uncomfort- 
able, but  just  enough  to  make  thin  clothing  desirable. 
Old  Neptune  did  not  favor  us  with  a  visit,  although 
rather  fearfully  expected  by  some.  This  practice,  we 
believe,  has  become  obsolete,  and  we  rejoice  heartily  at 
it,  for  a  more  barbarous  one  never  was  invented. 

Barney  was  very  anxiously  and  busily  engaged  dur- 
ing the  middle  and  morning  watches,  and  most  of  the 
day,  in  looking  for  the  "  line"  as  we  crossed  it.  He  had 
talked  of  nothing  else  for  several  days,  and  was  keeping 
a  bright  look-out  for  it,  losing  his  watch  below  for  the 
purpose.  But  he  was  doomed  to  disappointment.  No 
"line"  was  visible  when  we  crossed  the  equator,  and 
poor  Barney  went  below,  when  the  announcement  was 
made  that  we  were  south  of  it,  muttering  to  himself,  "  It 
is  certainly  strange ;  I  have  often  seen  it  on  the  maps, 
and  I  can't  imagine  how  we  crossed  it  without  seeing 
it."  Barney  found  out  his  error  before  the  voyage 
was  up. 

The  same  day  we  saw  the  first  whale-ship  at  sea,  the 
ship  "Java,"  of  Fairhaven,  Captain  Thompson.  She, 
like  ourselves,  was  bound  for  the  Pacific.  Had  taken 
no  whales  as  yet. 

On  the  twentieth  of  the  same  month,  while  in  com- 


^  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

pan  J  with  tlie  Java,  we  spoke  the  "  Ontario,"  of  Sag 
Harbor,  bound  home,  with  a  full  cargo  of  whale-oil. 
Paper,  pens,  and  ink  were  now  in  great  demand,  all 
eager  to  send  letters  home.  And  now  a  great  many  of 
those  who  attempted  writing  for  the  first  time  found  out 
the  difficulty,  we  might  almost  say  folly,  of  attempting 
to  write  legibly  at  sea.  We  had  by  this  time,  from 
having  practiced  it  daily  in  keeping  a  journal,  acquired 
the  knacky  though  at  first  our  efforts  in  that  line  were 
reaUy  astounding,  to  us  at  all  events.  Even  now  it  is 
hard  deciphering  the  marks  we  first  "entered  in  our 
log,"  they  having  a  closer  resemblance  to  the  tracks  of 
an  old  turkey  who  had  stepped  in  a  pool  of  ink  and 
walked  over  paper  than  any  thing  else  we  can  liken 
them  to. 

But  we  must  hasten,  as  the  good  ship  "  Ontario"  is 
waiting  anxiously  for  her  master  to  return  on  board, 
that  she  may  be  on  her  way  "  homeward  bound."  Her 
crew  were  pitying  us  poor  fellows — outward-bounders 
on  a  long  voyage — while  we  were  yainly  endeavoring 
to  conjecture  how  soon  the  time  would  arrive  when  we 
should  be  homeward  bound  with  a  full  ship,  and  could 
look  with  an  eye  of  pity  upon  poor  outward-bound 
whalemen. 

The  morning  of  the  twenty-second  commences  with 
light  breezes  from  the  northeast;  pleasant  weather. 
Suddenly,  about  9  A.M.,  the  monotony  is  broken  by 
the  welcome  cry  from  masthead, 

"  T-h-e-r-e  she  b-1-o-w-s !     T-h-e-r-e  she  b-1-o-w-s !" 

"  "Where  away  ?" 

"  Four  points  off  the  lee  bow,  sir." 

"How  far  off?" 

"  About  two  miles,  sir." 

"  What  does  it  look  like  ?" 

"  Sperm  whales,  sir." 

"  Av,  ay ;  sing  out  every  time  you  holler." 


THE   SOUTH  PACIFIC.  43 

By  this  time  the  captain  was  aloft,  and,  on  taking  a 
view  with  his  spy -glass  at  the  "spouts,"  sings  out, 
"  Sperm  whales  !  Call  all  hands ;  bear  a  hand  there, 
and  get  your  boats  ready." 

"  Ay,  ay,  sir,"  is  the  reply.  All  hands  are  called,  and 
the  different  crews  stand  by  their  respective  boats,  "  all 
eager  for  the  fray,"  and  expressing  their  determination 
to  capture  a  whale  before  returning  to  the  ship,  taking 
for  their  motto,  "A  dead  whale  or  a  stove  boat." 

"  Lower  away  the  boats !"  shouts  the  captain,  as  he 
descends  to  the  deck.  They  are  instantly  lowered,  fol- 
lowed by  the  crews,  and  now  comes  the  tug  of  war. 
Each  boat  sets  her  sail,  and  the  men  pull  in  good  earn- 
est. While  they  are  skimming  the  waves  the  whale  is 
still  spouting,  and  all  are  anxious  to  reach  him  before 
his  "  spoutings  are  out."  It  frequently  happens,  when 
in  pursuit,  that,  just  at  the  moment  the  boat-steerer 
"  stands  up"  to  strike  the  whale,  he  suddenly  descends ; 
but  experienced  whalemen  can  generally  tell  the  di- 
rection they  take  while  down  by  the  position  of  the 
"flukes"  when  going  down.  The  boats  are  then  pulled 
in  the  direction  the  whale  is  supposed  to  have  taken. 
They  also  judge  of  the  distance  the  whale  will  go  under 
water  by  the  velocity  of  the  animal  when  last  seen. 
After  the  boats  have  pulled  what  is  judged  to  be  the 
proper  distance,  they  "  heave  up,"  or  cease  pulling.  A 
large  whale,  when  not  "  gallied,"  Or  ■  frightened,  gener- 
ally spouts  from  sixty  to  seventy  times  before  going 
down,  and  remains  down  from  fifty  to  seventy  minutes. 

The  boats  have  now  got  close  on.  Those  left  on 
board  the  ship  are  watching  with  breathless  anxiety, 
occasionally  exclaiming,  "  Oh  pull,  boys !  do  pull !" 
Meantime  the  men  in  the  boats  are  bending  back  to  it, 
but  the  bow  boat  has  the  advantage ;  she  is  the  head 
boat.  Mr.  K.  is  jumping  up  and  down  in  the  stern,  cry- 
ing, "Once  more,  my  hearties;  give  it  to  her!  a  few 


44  LIFE  AND  ADVEJv'TUEE  IN 

more  strokes,  and  we  have  him ;  pull,  my  children ! 
why  don't  you  break  your  backbones,  you  rascals?  so 
there  you  are  now;  that's  the  stroke  for  a  thousand 
pounds ;  start  her,  but  keep  cool ;  cucumbers  is  the 
word ;  easy,  easy  ;  only  start  her !  why  don't  you  snap 
your  oars,  you  rascals  ?  bite  something,  you  dogs !  easy 
now,  but  pull ;  oh,  you're  all  asleep  1  stop  snoring,  and 
pull ;  pull,  will  ye  ?  pull,  can't  ye  ?  pull,  won't  ye  ?  pull, 
and  start  your  eyes  out !  that's  it ;  now  you  start  her." 
Thus,  one  moment  coaxing  and  the  next  scolding ;  but 
no  one  heeds  him,  as  all  are  bent  on  taking  the  whale. 
"  Stand  up  !"  shouted  he ;  and  the  boat-steerer  rose  to 
his  feet,  grasped  his  iron,  and,  as  the  boat  neared  the 
monster,  "  Give  it  to  him  !"  is  the  next  cry,  and  "  chock 
to  the  socket"  went  the  first  iron,  followed  as  quick  as 
thought  by  the  second.  One  deafening  cheer,  and 
the  cry  resounded  over  the  waters,  "TFe  are  fasti  we 
are  fast  r^  The  sea,  which  but  a  moment  before  lay  still 
and  quiet,  with  scarcely  a  ripple  to  break  its  even  sur- 
face, is  now  lashed  into  foam  by  the  writhings  of  the 
whale.  "  Stern  all !"  shouts  the  officer.  The  boat  is 
immediately  backed,  and  removed  from  present  danger ; 
the  officer  takes  the  head  of  the  boat,  and  the  boat-steerer 
takes  the  steering  oar  to  manage  the  boat ;  the  whale  is 
sounding,  and  the  line  is  running  through  the  "chocks," 
or  groove  in  the  head  of  the  boat,  with  the  rapidity  of 
lightning,  and  as  it  passes  round  the  loggerhead  it  ig- 
nites from  the  heat  produced  by  friction,  but  the  tub- 
oarsman  is  continually  dashing  water  upon  it  in  the  line- 
tub.  The  whale  sounds  deep,  and  the  line  is  almost  out ; 
a  signal  is  made  to  the  other  boats,  which  are  coming 
down.  They  come  near  enough,  and  bend  on  their 
lines ;  but  presently  it  ceases  running  out  and  slackens ; 
the  whale  is  coming  to  the  surface  again.  All  hands 
HOW  commence  to  "  haul  in  line"  as  fast  as  he  rises,  and 
the  boat-steerer  coils  it  away,  as  fast  as  hauled  in,  in  the 


liSi'iRi'1='!i?iiP 


THE   SOUTH   PACIFIC. 


47 


stern  sheets.  He  soon  breaks  water,  and  the  boat  is 
gradually  hauled  up  to  him.  Another  boat  now  fast- 
ens, and  he  again  attempts  to  sound ;  but,  being  weak- 
ened by  loss  of  blood,  he  is  soon  at  the  surface  again. 
The  boats  now  draw  alongside,  and  the  officer  of  the 
first  boat  fast  prepares  his  lance.  He  darts  it  for  his 
vitals  (just  behind  the  fin),  and  the  first  one  proves  fa- 
tal, for  in  a  moment  more  he  shows  the  "  red  flag ;"  the 
blood  flows  freely  from  the  spout-hole  in  a  thick,  dark 
stream;  the  sea  is  stained  for  some  distance,  and  the 
men  in  the  boats  are  covered  with  the  bloody  spray, 
but  glory  in  it. 


TOWISa  A  DEAD  WHALE. 


The  monster  now  attempts  to  sound,  but  is  obliged 
to  keep  to  the  surface,  and  he  soon  goes  in  what  is 
technically  termed  by  whalemen  his  "  flurry,"  but  what 
landsmen  would  call  his  dying  agonies — and  terrible 


48  LIFE   AND   ADVENTURE   IN 

they  are.  The  sea  is  beaten  into  a  perfect  foam  by  his 
writhings  and  contortions ;  and,  after  a  short  time,  as  if 
with  accelerated  strength,  he  starts  off  with  hghtning 
speed,  describing  in  his  course  circles,  each  growing 
smaller  than  the  preceding  one,  and  his  speed  slacken- 
ing, until  he  finally  gives  one  monster  throe  and  dies, 
rolling  fin  out,  with  his  head  to  the  sun.* 

The  battle  is  now  ended,  and  the  "huge  leviathan 
lies  a  victim  to  the  superior  power  and  mind  of  man." 

Now  that  life  is  extinct,  a  hole  is  cut  in  his  head,  the 
line  made  fast,  and  all  the  boats  "  hook  on"  and  tow 
him  to  the  ship,  where  he  is  made  fast  by  means  of  a 
fluke-chain  being  passed  around  his  tail,  which  chain  is 
brought  to  the  forward  part  of  the  ship,  and  passed 
through  a  "  hawse-hole,"  and  made  fast  to  the  "  bow- 
sprit bits,"  bringing  the  whale  with  his  head  pointing 
aft,  and  in  a  proper  position  to  commence  the  operation 
of  "  cutting  in." 

*  This  is  stated  to  be  a  fact  by  old  and  experienced  whalemen,  who 
assert  they  have  never  seen  a  sperm  whale  die  in  any  othei*  manner. 
This  peculiarity  we  have  never  heard  accounted  for. 


THE   SOUTH   PACIFIC. 


49 


CHAPTER  V. 

Description  of  the  Sperm  Whale. — Described  externally. — Difference 
between  the  Sperm  and  Right  Whale. 

Befoee  proceeding  farther,  perhaps  it  will  be  inter- 
esting to  the  reader  if  we  give  a  brief  description  of  the 
external  form  of  the  sperm  whale.  The  following  draft 
represents  the  shape  of  the  animal,  and  the  various  dot- 
ted lines  show  the  manner  of  dividing  it,  in  order  to 
"  heave  it  in  on  deck." 


D/T 


^ — '  /  /  /  /  /  '^. 

K    /     G     /     G    /     G     /     G       /   G      ^' 


M 


i-a^s^^^yi  ^^^\ 


A,  the  nostril, or  spout-hole;  B,  the  situation  of  the  case;  C,  the  junk;  D,  the 
bunch  of  the  neck;  K,  the  eye;  F,  the  fin;  G,  the  spiral  strips,  or  "•  blanket-pieces ;" 
U,  the  hump;  I,  the  ridge;  K,  the  small;  L,  the  tail,  or  flukes ;  M,  the  jaw. 

The  head  of  the  whale  presents  in  front  a  thick,  blunt 
appearance,  and  constitutes  about  one  third  the  length  of 
the  animal.  At  its  junction  with  the  body  is  a  protuber- 
ance on  its  back,  called  the  "bunch  of  the  neck;"  imme- 
diately back  of  this  is  the  thickest  part  of  the  body.  It 
then  gradually  tapers  for  about  another  third  of  the  whole 
length,  when  the  "small,"  as  it  is  called,  commences; 
and  at  this  point  on  the  back  is  another  and  larger 
prominence  of  a  pyramidal  form,  called  the  "hump," 
from  which  a  series  of  smaller  prominences  runs  half 
way  down  the  small,  forming  the  "ridge."  The  body 
then  contracts  so  much  as  to  become  not  larger  than 
the  body  of  a  man,  and  terminates  by  being  expand- 
ed on  the  sides  into  the  "flukes,"  or  tail.     The  flukes 


50  LIFE  AXD   ADVENTURE  IN 

resemble  somewhat  in  shape  the  tail  of  a  fish,  onl}- 
being  placed  horizontal  instead  of  perpendicular.  In 
the  larger  whales  these  flukes  are  from  eight  to  ten 
feet  in  length,  and  from  fourteen  to  sixteen  feet  in 
breadth.  The  depth  of  the  head  and  body  is  greater 
than  the  width. 

At  the  angle  formed  by  the  superior  and  anterior  sur- 
faces of  the  head,  a  little  on  the  left  side,  is  the  nostril, 
or  "  spout-hole,"  which,  in  the  dead  animal,  presents  the 
appearance  of  a  slit,  or  fissure,  in  form  resembling  an  S, 
extending  longitudinally,  and  about  twelve  inches  in 
length.  The  "  case,"  situated  in  the  upper  part  of  the 
head,  is  a  large,  almost  triangular-shaped  cavity,  lined 
by  a  beautiful  glistening  membrane,  and  covered  by  a 
thick  layer  of  muscular  fibres  and  tendons  running  in 
various  directions,  and  finally  united  by  common  in- 
teguments. This  cavity  is  for  the  purpose  of  contain- 
ing and  secreting  an  oily  fluid,  which  after  death  con- 
cretes into  a  granulated  substance  of  a  yellowish-white 
color — the  spermaceti.  The  quantity  of  fluid  contained 
in  the  case  depends  on  the  size  of  the  whale ;  from  that 
of  a  large  whale  fifteen  barrels  of  liquid  spermaceti  are 
often  taken. 

Immediately  beneath  the  case,  and  projecting  beyond 
the  lower  jaw,  is  situated  the  junk,  which  is  composed 
of  dense  cellular  tissue,  strengthened  by  numerous  strong 
tendons  and  fibres,  and  infiltrated  with  spermaceti. 

The  mouth  is  at  the  base  of  the  head,  and  continues 
nearly  its  whole  length.  The  lower  jaw  is  pointed  in 
front,  and  gradually  widens  till  it  is  received  in  the 
socket  of  the  upper  jaw.  It  contains  forty-two  teeth, 
conical  in  shape,  and,  in  the  large  whale,  formidable  in 
appearance.  There  are  none,  however,  in  the  upper  jaw, 
but  indentations  which  receive  the  points  of  those  in  the 
lower  jaw.  Sometimes  a  few  rudimentary  teeth  are 
found  in  the  upper  jaw,  never,  however,  projecting  be- 


THE   SOUTH   PACIFIC.  51 

yond  tlie  gums,  upon  which  those  in  the  lower  jaw 
strike  when  the  mouth  is  closed. 

The  tongue  is  of  a  white  color,  exceedingly  small,  and 
does  not  appear  to  possess  the  power  of  very  extended 
motion. 

The  mouth  is  lined  throughout  with  a  white  mem- 
brane, which  becomes  continuous  at  the  lips,  and  bor- 
ders with  the  common  integument,  where  it  becomes  of 
a  dark  brown  or  black  color. 

The  eyes  are  small,  and  are  furnished  with  eyelids. 
They  are  situated  above  and  behind  the  angle  of  the 
mouth,  at  the  widest  part  of  the  head.  At  a  short  dis- 
tance behind  the  eyes  are  the  external  openings  of  the 
ears,  of  sufficient  size  to  admit  a  small  quill,  and  unpro- 
vided with  any  external  auricular  appendage. 

The  fins  are  not  far  from  the  posterior  angle  of  the 
mouth,  and  are  analogous  in  their  formation  to  the  an- 
terior extremities  of  other  animals.  They  are  not  much 
used  as  instruments  of  progression,  but  probably  in  giv- 
ing a  direction  to  motions  in  balancing  the  body,  in 
sinking  suddenly,  and  occasionally  in  protecting  and 
supporting  their  young. 


SPEKM  WHALE. 


In  a  full-grown  male  sperm  whale  of  the  largest  size 
the  dimensions  may  be  given  as  follows :  Length,  from 
eighty  to  ninety  feet ;  depth  of  head,  from  ten  to  twelve 
feet ;  breadth,  from  seven  to  ten  feet ;  depth  of  body, 
from  sixteen  to  eighteen  feet;  swimming  paws,  or  fins, 
about  eight  feet  long  and  three  broad ;  the  tail,  or  flukes, 
have  been  previously  mentioned. 


52  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE   IN 

In  reviewing  the  description  of  the  external  form 
and  some  of  the  organs  of  the  sperm  whale,  it  will,  per- 
haps, not  be  uninteresting  if  some  comparison  is  insti- 
tuted between  them  and  the  corresponding  points  of 
the  right  whale.  One  of  the  greatest  peculiarities  of  the 
sperm  whale,  which  strikes,  at  first  sight,  every  behold- 
er, is  the  apparently  disproportionate  and  unwieldy  bulk 
of  the  head ;  but  this,  instead  of  being,  as  might  be  sup- 
posed, an  impediment  to  the  freedom  of  the  animal's 
motion  in  his  native  element,  is,  on  the  contrary,  in  some 
respects  very  conducive  to  his  lightness  and  agility. 
A  great  part  of  the  bulk  of  the  head  is  composed  of  a 
large,  thin,  membraneous  case,  containing,  during  life,  a 
thin  oil  of  much  less  specific  gravity  than  water,  below 
which  again  is  the  junk,  which,  although  heavier  than 
the  spermaceti,  is  still  lighter  than  the  element  in  which 
the  whale  moves ;  conseq^uently,  the  head  is  lighter  than 
any  other  part  of  the  body,  and  will  always  have  a  tend- 
ency to  rise,  at  least  so  far  above  the  surface  as  to  ele- 
vate the  nostril,  or  "spout-hole,"  sufficiently  for  all  pur- 
poses of  respiration.  In  case  the  animal  should  wish  to 
increase  his  speed  to  the  utmost,  the  narrow  anterior 
and  inferior  surface,  which  bears  a  resemblance  to  the 
cut- water  of  a  ship,  and  which  would,  in  fact,  answer  the 
same  purpose  to  the  whale,  would  be  the  only  part  ex- 
posed to  the  pressure  of  the  water  in  front,  enabling 
him  thus  to  pass,  with  the  greatest  ease  and  celerity, 
through  the  boundless  track  of  his  wide  domain. 

It  is  in  the  shape  of  the  head  that  the  sperm  whale 
differs,  in  the  most  remarkable  degree,  from  the  right 
whale — the  shape  of  whose  head  more  resembles  that 
of  a  porpoise — and  in  it  the  spout-hole  is  situated  much 
farther  back,  rendering  it  seldom  or  never  necessary  for 
the  nose  to  be  elevated  above  the  surface  of  the  water. 
The  eyes,  in  both  the  sperm  and  right  whale,  are  ex- 
ceedingly small  in  comparison  with  their  bulk;  still, 


THE  SOUTH   PACIFIC. 


55 


they  are  tolerably  quick-sighted.  We  are  not  aware 
that  the  sperm  whale  possesses,  in  any  respect,  any  su- 
periority. We  again  observe,  in  the  formation  of  the 
mouth,  a  very  remarkable  difference  in  the  two  ani- 
mals ;  for,  in  place  of  the  enormous  plates  of  whalebone 
which  are  found  attached  to  the  upper  jaw  of  the  right 
whale,  we  only  find  depressions  for  the  reception  of  the 
teeth  of  the  lower  jaw,  which  plainly  point  out  that  the 
food  of  the  two  animals  must  be  very  different. 


EIGHT   WUALE  BONE. 


There  are  several  prominences  or  humps  on  the  back 
of  the  sperm  whale,  which  constitutes  another  difference 
in  their  external  aspect.  These  prominences  are  not  al- 
together peculiar  to  the  sperm  -v^jjiale,  as  there  is  a  spe- 
cies of  fish,  called  by  whalemen  "humpbacks,"  which 
possesses  a  prominence  on  the  back  very  similar  to  that 
of  the  sperm  whale. 

The  skin  of  the  sperm  whale  is  smooth,  but  occasion- 
ally, in  old  whales,  wrinkled.  The  color  of  the  skin, 
over  the  greatest  part  of  the  body,  is  very  dark.  In 
different  whales  there  is  considerable  variety  of  shade ; 
some  are  even  piebald.  "Old  bulls,"  as  full-grown 
males  are  called  by  whalemen,  have  generally  a  portion 


oQ  LIFE   AND   ADVENTURE   IN 

of  gray  on  the  nose  above  the  fore-part  of  the  upper 
jaw,  and  they  are  then  said  to  be  "  gray  headed."  In 
young  whales  the  "black  skin,"  as  it  is  called,  is  about 
three  eighths  of  an  inch  thick,  but  in  old  ones  it  is  not 
more  than  one  eighth. 

Immediately  beneath  the  black  skin  is  the  blubber,  or 
fat,  which  is  contained  in  a  cellular  membrane,  and 
which  is  much  strengthened  by  numerous  fibres.  The 
average  thickness  of  the  fat  on  the  breast  of  a  large 
whale,  when  in  good  condition,  is  about  eighteen  inches. 
The  "  hump"  is  generally  the  thickest  part  of  the  blub- 
ber, being  sometimes  from  twenty-two  to  twenty-six 
inches  in  thickness;  and,  in  most  other  parts  of  the 
body,  it  measures  from  nine  to  fourteen  inches.  The 
head  is  not,  however,  supplied  with  this  covering,  or 
blubber,  having  only  the  black  skin,  which  lies  close  to 
a  layer  of  very  dense  cellular  tissue,  under  which  is  seen 
a  considerable  thickness  of  numerous  small  tendons,  in- 
termixed with  muscular  fibres. 

This  thick  covering  of  blubber,  or  fat,  is  called  the 
"  blanket ;"  it  is  of  a  yellowish  color,  and,  when  melted 
down,  furnishes  the  sperm  oil.  It  also  serves  two  ex- 
cellent purposes  to  the  whale:  rendering  it  buoyant, 
and  furnishing  it  with  a  warm  protection  from  the  cold- 
ness of  the  surrounding  element — in  this  last  respect, 
answering  well  to  the  name  bestowed  upon  it  by  whale- 
men. 


THE   SOUTH   PACIFIC.  59 


CHAPTER  VI. 

"Cutting  in."  ^ 

As  we  are  now  ready  to  "  cut  in"  the  whale,  we  will 
briefly  explain  the  modus  operandi.  In  the  first  place 
the  decks  are  cleared,  in  order  to  have  room  to  work. 
The  ponderous  cutting  tackles  are  swayed  up  to  the 
lower-mast  head  (the  main),  the  strongest  point  any 
where  above  a  ship's  deck.  Large  hawsers  are  then 
rove  through  these  blocks,  then  through  similar  ones 
on  deck,  to  the  windlass,  in  the  forward  part  of  the 
ship.  To  the  lower  blocks  are  attached  ponderous  iron 
hooks,  weighing  over  one  hundred  pounds  each.  These 
hooks  are  for  the  purpose  of  "  hooking  on"  to  the  blub- 
ber, and  can  be  put  on  and  taken  off  the  blocks  at  pleas- 
ure. And  now,  suspended  in  stages  over  the  side,  the 
first  and  second  mates,  armed  with  their  long  spades, 
-begin  cutting  a  hole  in  the  body  for  the  insertion  of  the 
hook  just  above  one  of  the  fins.  This  done,  a  broad 
semicircular  line  is  cut  round  the  hole,  the  hook  is  in- 
serted, and  the  main  body  of  the  crew,  striking  up  a 
wild  chorus,  now  commence  heaving  at  the  windlass. 
The  entire  ship  careens  over  on  her  side ;  every  bolt  in 
her  starts  like  the  nail-heads  of  an  old  house  in  frosty 
weather ;  she  trembles,  quivers,  and  nods  her  frighted 
mastheads  to  the  sky.  More  and  more  she  leans  over 
to  the  whale,  while  every  gasping  heave  of  the  windlass 
is  answered  by  a  helping  heave  of  the  billows,  till  at 
last  a  swift,  startling  snap  is  heard;  with  a  great  swash 
the  ship  rolls  upward  and  backward  from  the  whale, 
and  the  triumphant  tackle  rises  into  sight,  dragging 


60         ,  LIFE   AND   ADVENTURE   IN 

after  it  the  disengaged  semicircular  end  of  the  first  strip 
of  blubber.  Now,  as  the  blubber  envelops  the  whale, 
as  we  described  in  the  last  chapter,  precisely  as  the  rind 
does  an  orange,  so  is  it  stripped  off  the  body  precisely 
as  an  orange  is  sometimes  stripped  by  spiralizing  it. 
The  strain,  constantly  kept  up  by  the  windlass,  continu- 
ally keeps  the  whale  rolling  over  and  over  in  the  water ; 
and  as  the  blubber  in  one  strip  uniformly  peels  off  along 
the  line  called  the  "  scarf,"  simultaneously  cut  by  the 
spades  of  the  mates — the  chief  mate  separating  the  head 
from  the  body  while  the  whale  is  being  rolled  over  the 
first  time — and  just  as  fast  as  it  is  thus  peeled  off,  and 
indeed  by  that  very  act  itself,  it  is  all  the  time  being 
hoisted  higher  and  higher  aloft  till  its  upper  end  grazes 
the  main-top ;  the  men  at  the  windlass  then  cease  heav- 
ing, and  for  a  moment  or  two  the  prodigious,  blood- 
dripping  mass  sways  to  and  fro  as  if  let  down  from  the 
sky;  and  every  one  present  must  take  good  care  to  dodge 
it  when  it  swings,  else  it  may  box  his  ears  and  pitch  him 
overboard. 

One  of  the  attending  boat-steerers  now  advances  with 
along,  keen  weapon,  called  a  boarding-knife,  and,  watch- 
ing his  opportunity,  he  dexterously  slices  out  a  consid- 
erable hole  in  the  lower  part  of  the  swaying  mass.  Into 
this  hole  the  end  of  the  second  alternating  great  tackle 
is  hooked,  so  as  to  retain  a  hold  upon  the  blubber,  in 
order  to  prepare  for  what  follows.  "Whereupon  this  ac- 
complished swordsman,  warning  all  hands  to  stand  off, 
once  more  makes  a  scientific  dash  at  the  mass,  and  with 
a  few  sidelong,  desperate,  lunging  slicings,  severs  it  com- 
pletely in  two  ;  so  that,  while  the  short  lower  part  is  still 
fast,  the  long  upper  strip,  the  "  blanket  piece,"  swings 
clear,  and  is  all  ready  for  lowering.  The  heavers  for- 
ward now  resume  their  song  and  their  work,  and,  while 
the  one  tackle  is  peeling  and  hoisting  a  second  strip  from 
the  whale,  the  other  is  slowly  slackened  away,  and  down 


THE    SOUTH    PACIFIC.  (31 

goes  the  first  strip  through  the  main  hatchway  right  be- 
neath, into  an  unfurnished  parlor  called  the  "  blubber- 
room."  Into  this  twilight  apartment  sundry  nimble 
hands  keep  coiling  away  the  long  blanket-pieces,  as  if 
they  were  a  great  live  mass  of  plaited  serpents.  And 
thus  the  work  proceeds ;  the  two  tackles  hoisting  and 
lowering  simultaneously,  both  whale  and  windlass  heav- 
ing, the  crew  singing,  the  blubber-room  gentlemen  coil- 
ing, the  mates  cutting,  the  ship  straining,  and  all  hands 
swearing  occasionally,  by  way  of  assuaging  the  general 
friction. 

And  now  the  "body"  of  the  whale  is  all  in;  the  car- 
cass has  floated  off,  food  for  the  sharks ;  the  head,  which 
has  been  made  fast  alongside  the  ship,  is  brought  to  the 
gangway,  and  the  junk  is  separated  from  the  case,  and 
"  hove  in"  on  deck.  Now  comes  the  bailing  of  the  case. 
It  is  hoisted  up  alongside  the  gangway,  nearly  level  with 
the  ship's  deck ;  a  "  whip"  is  rigged,  being  simply  a 
rope,  one  end  on  deck,  the  other  passing  through  a  sin- 
gle block  made  fast  to  the  main-yard,  to  which  is  attach- 
ed a  bucket  of  the  capacity  of  about  a  gallon.  One  of 
the  boat-steerers  stands  on  the  end  of  the  case,  with  a 
short  spade  cuts  a  hole  in  the  case,  and  the  bucket  is 
then  sunk  into  it  by  means  of  a  long  pole,  until  it  is 
filled,  when  it  is  hoisted  out  and  emptied,  and  so  on  un- 
til the  liquid  oil  is  all  bailed  out.  From  the  case  of  a 
hundred-barrel  sperm  whale  from  fifteen  to  seventeen 
barrels  of  liquid  oil  is  generally  obtained,  though  a  great 
deal  is  unavoidably  wasted.  After  the  case  is  bailed  it 
is  cut  loose,  and  immediately  sinks  with  great  rapidity. 


62  LIFE   AND   ADVENTURE   IN 


CHAPTER  VII. 

"  Trying  out." — "  Stowing  down." — "  Cleaning  up." — Gale  off  the  Riv- 
er De  la  Plata. — Thunder  and  Lightning. — Narrow  Escape  of  the 
Ship. 

The  whale  is  now  cut  in ;  then  comes  the  process  of 
"  trying  out."  In  the  centre  of  the  deck,  somewhat  for- 
ward, are  the  try-works  for  the  purpose  of  trying  out 
the  oil.  It  is  a  square  place,  built  up  with  bricks  and 
iron,  about  four  feet  high  and  ten  square.  It  has  two 
large  iron  pots  in  the  centre,  each  one  containing  be- 
tween three  and  four  barrels,  with  furnaces  underneath. 
The  liquid  spermaceti  from  the  case  is  first  put  into  the 
pots,  the  fires  are  lighted,  and  the  process  of  "  trying 
out"  commences.  Here  we  would  state  that,  in  a  whal- 
ing voyage,  the  first  fire  in  a  try -works  has  to  be  fed  for 
a  time  with  wood.  After  that  no  wood  is  used,  except 
as  the  means  of  quick  ignition  to  the  staple  fuel.  In  a 
word,  after  being  tried  out,  the  crisp,  shriveled  blubber, 
now  called  scraps,  still  contains  considerable  of  its  unc- 
tuous properties.  These  scraps  feed  the  flames.  Like 
a  plethoric  burning  martyr,  or  a  self-consuming  misan- 
thrope, once  ignited,  the  whale  supplies  his  own  fuel 
and  burns  by  his  own  body.  Would  that  he  consumed 
his  own  smoke !  for  his  smoke  is  horrible  to  inhale,  and 
inhale  it  you  must ;  and  not  only  that,  but  you  must  live 
in  it  for  the  time.  It  has  an  indescribable  odor  about 
it,  such  as  one  might  imagine  would  arise  from  a  Hin- 
doo funeral  pile. 

The  blanket-pieces  are  cut  into  small  pieces,  varying 
from  twelve  to  twenty  inches  in  length,  and  about  as 
wide  as  the  thickness  of  the  blubber,  called  "  horse 


THE   SOUTH   PACIFIC. 


m 


pieces."  They  are  then  pitched  on  deck,  and  forward 
to  the  mincing  machine,  where  they  are  cut  into  very 
thin  shoes,  and  are  then  ready  for  the  pots. 


TEYING   OUT. 


As  soon  as  the  oil  is  extracted  from  the  blubber,  the 
scraps  are  skimmed  off,  and  the  oil  bailed  out  of  the  pots 
into  a  large  copper  cooler,  which  stands  by  the  side  of 
the  try-works.  When  it  is  sufficiently  cool  that  it  will 
not  burn  the  casks,  it  is  poured  into  them,  and  allowed 
to  remain  on  deck  for  two  or  three  days.  It  is  then 
"  coopered,"  that  is,  the  hoops  on  the  casks  are  all  driv- 
en tight,  to  prevent  them  from  leaking,  it  having  been 
rendered  necessary  by  the  hot  oil  shrinking  the  casks. 
At  length,  when  the  last  pint  is  casked  and  coopered, 
and  all  is  sufficiently  cool,  then  the  great  hatchways  are 
unsealed,  the  bowels  of  the  ship  are  thrown  open,  and 
down  go  the  casks  to  their  rest  in  the  hold.    This  done, 


64  LIFE   AND   ADVENTURE   IN 

the  hatches  are  replaced  and  hermetically  sealed,  like  a 
closet  walled  up. 

And  now  comes  the  process  of  cleaning  up.  From 
the  ashes  of  the  scraps  is  made  a  powerful  lye,  which  is 
used  in  removing  the  grease  from  the  bulwarks  and 
decks  of  the  ship.  Hands  go  diligently  along,  and  with 
buckets  of  lye  and  water,  and  rags,  restore  all  to  its  full 
tidiness.  The  soot  is  brushed  from  the  lower  rigging ; 
all  the  numerous  implements  which  have  been  in  use 
are  likewise  faithfully  cleansed  and  put  away.  The 
great  hatch  is  scrubbed  and  placed  upon  the  try- works ; 
every  cask  is  out  of  sight ;  all  tackles  are  coiled  in  un- 
seen nooks;  and  when,  by  the  combined  and  almost 
simultaneous  industry  of  the  ship's  company,  the  whole 
of  this  duty  is  concluded,  then  the  crew  themselves  pro- 
ceed to  their  own  ablutions,  shift  themselves  from  top 
to  toe,  and  issue  forth  to  the  cleaned  and  white  decks, 
fresh  and  all  aglow,  as  bridegrooms  new  leaped  from  out 
the  daintiest  Holland. 

We  now  continued  our  way  for  Cape  Horn,  having 
beautiful  clear  weather  with  fine  southeast  trade-winds. 

On  Tuesday,  January  8th,  1850,  we  were  off  the  River 
De  la  Plata.  This  region  is  notorious  for  its  heavy 
gales  and  "  pamperos,"  a  species  of  hurricane.  We  had, 
for  three  days,  been  having  a  severe  gale.  On  this 
evening  (the  third  day)  the  wind  died  away ;  the  heav- 
ens were  shrouded  with  heavy  black  clouds ;  every 
thing  so  quiet,  and  yet  so  gloomy,  seemed  but  the  fore- 
runner of  a  storm  of  the  wildest  description.  Sail  was 
taken  in,  and  all  put  in  readiness,  awaiting  its  approach. 
Presently  the  heavens  were  illuminated  with  the  glare 
of  lightning,  followed  by  the  hoarse  and  deep  thunder 
that  appeared  to  come  from  the  very  bottom  of  the  great 
deep.  It  increased  until  the  whole  heavens  were  one 
broad  sheet  of  flame,  and  the  reflection  upon  the  surface 
of  the  water  gave  it  the  resemblance  of  a  sea  of  fire ; 


THE   SOUTH    PACIFIC.  65 

and  the  constant  thunder,  seeming  to  shake  the  earth  to 
the  very  centre,  added  to  the  sublime  grandeur  of  the 
awe-inspiring  scene.  On  every  hand,  and  in  whatever 
direction  the  eye  turned,  the  same  continual  blaze  of 
lightning,  accompanied  by  the  heavy  and  continuous 
thunder,  presented  itself  to  the  beholder.  It  was  cer- 
tainly the  most  awful  and  yet  sublime  scene  we  had 
ever  witnessed. 

"  The  storm  howled  madly  on  the  sea, 

The  clouds  their  thunder-anthems  sang ; 
And  billows  rolling  fearfully, 

In  concert  with  the  whirlwinds  rang." 

All  hands  were  gazing  upon  the  grand  spectacle, 
when,  suddenly,  a  clap  immediately  over  our  heads — 
a  sudden  flash — a  jar,  followed  by  impenetrable  dark- 
ness. All  hands  were  dumb ;  no  one  dared  to  speak. 
The  ship  had  been  struck,  but  none  could  ask  where, 
fearful  of  being  told  we  were  lost.  The  mate,  however, 
soon  came  along,  and  gave  proper  directions  to  exam- 
ine the  ship.  He  then  went  to  the  main-top,  and  found 
the  powder,  which  had  been  placed  there  for  safety,  all 
right.  Another  descended  to  the  hold,  but  discovered 
no  fire.  It  appears  the  lightning  struck  our  main-royal 
truck,  and  descended  to  the  deck,  which  being  wet,  it 
passed  off  with  but  little  damage.  The  next  morning, 
on  unfurling  the  main-royal  sail,  we  found  thirteen  holes 
burned  in  it,  about  the  size  of  a  musket  ball.  The 
lightning  went' through  the  "bunt,"  as  it  was  rolled 
on  the  yard,  thus  accounting  for  the  large  number  of 
holes. 

As  soon  as  it  was  generally  known  we  had  escaped 
with  so  little  injury,  all  experienced  a  feeling  of  grati- 
tude for  our  truly  remarkable  escape.  As  we  before 
remarked,  the  powder,  which  was  contained  in  two 
"  breakers,"  or  long,  narrow  barrels,  each  containing 
four  kegs,  was  placed  in  the  main  and  mizzen  tops,  one 


66  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE   IN 

breaker  on  each  side  of  the  mast.*  The  lightning  had 
descended  immediately  between  the  two  breakers  in  the 
main-top.  Had  it  ignited  the  powder  contained  in  one 
of  the  kegs,  in  all  probability  our  voyage  at  sea,  and 
perhaps  for  life,  would  have  been  soon  ended.  "We  felt 
truly  thankful  that  we  had  so  miraculously  escaped. 
Some  two  or  three  of  the  men  were  knocked  down,  and 
others  stunned,  but  nothing  serious.  The  night  slowly 
wore  away ;  the  constant  glare  of  the  fierce  lightning, 
and  the  never-ceasing  roar  of  the  thunder,  continuing 
until  day  dawned. 

We  all  felt  relieved  when  daybreak  once  more  came 
over  the  sea.  The  gale,  which  had  increased  during  the 
night,  now  abated;  the  clouds  broke  away,  even  the 
one  with  the  "  silver  lining,"  and  "  old  Sol"  once  more 
showed  his  cheering  face,  and  sent  his  gladsome  rays 
rejoicing  over  the  face  of  the  great  deep. 


THK   SOUTH   PACIFIC.  67 


CHAPTER  Vin. 

Preparing  for  Cape  Horn. — Head  Winds. — Staten  Land. — Cape  Horn. 

Heavy  Gale. — Porpoises  and  Albatross.— Mackey  and  the  Third 

Mate.— Captured  a  Sperm  Whale.— Preparing  for  Port.— The  Anchor 
down. 

We  now  commenced  'making  preparations  for  that 
much-dreaded  place,  Cape  Horn.  Took  the  anchors  in 
on  deck,  and  lashed  them  solid ;  also  the  boats  from  off 
the  cranes,  and  secured  every  thing  generally.  We 
were  now  sailing  along  with  fine  breezes  from  the  north- 
ward, but  the  coolness  of  the  air  reminded  us  that  we 
were  approaching  the  southernmost  point  of  land.  On 
the  13th  of  January  the  wind  veered  round  to  the  south, 
and  increased  to  a  heavy  gale.  We  reduced  the  sail  to 
a  close-reefed  main-topsail,  sent  down  top-gallant  yards, 
and  prepared  for  a  regular  "  Cape  Horner."  At  mid- 
night, however,  the  wind  abated,  and  sea  went  down ; 
next  morning  it  was  pleasant,  with  fine  northerly 
breezes;  but  at, night  the  wind  again  hauled  to  the 
southward,  blowing  heavy,  with  rain,  which  obliged  us 
to  heave  to.  Thus  the  wind  often  changes  in  the  At- 
lantic in  this  latitude ;  sometimes  ships  are  kept  here 
for  weeks  by  head  winds. 

On  the  25th  we  were  off  Staten  Land.  This  island 
presents  a  bleak,  rocky  appearance.  Saw  a  ship  trying 
out,  which  assures  us  that  sperm  whales  have  been  taken 
here  lately. 

On  Saturday,  the  26th,  we  were  off  the  island  of  Cape 
Horn.  This  island  is  said  to  have  received  its  name 
from  its  conical  shape.  We  here  saw  quite  a  fleet  of 
merchantmen  and  whalemen  bound  round  the  Horn, 


(5«  LIFE   AND   ADVENTURE   IN 

no  less  than  twenty-two  ships  being  in  sight  from  mast- 
head. About  nine  o'clock  this  morning,  while  sailing 
along  with  a  fair,  pleasant  wind,  carrying  studding-sails, 
all  hands  were  suddenly  called  to  take  jn  sail,  and,  be- 
fore the  ship  was  under  snug  canvas,  the  gale  broke 
upon  us  in  all  its  fury,  coming,  as  seamen  say,  "butt- 
end  first."  However,  we  soon  had  every  thing  snug, 
and  then  "  let  the  winds  pipe."  With  a  good  ship  and 
plenty  of  sea-room,  we  felt  no  danger.  The  next  day 
great  numbers  of  porpoises  were  seen,  going  through  the 
water  like  race-horses.  Plenty  of  albatross  and  Cape 
pigeons  were  in  sight  also.  We  caught  an  albatross,  a 
beautiful  large  bird,  perfectly  white,  measuring  sixteen 
feet  from  tip  to  tip  of  its  wings.  They  are  called  by 
seamen  "  Goneys,"  for  what  reason  we  know  not.  We 
also  saw  large  numbers  of  "Mother  Carey's  Chickens," 
that  beautiful  little  bird .  so  well  known  to  all.  They 
were  flying  in  the  wake  of  the  ship,  skimming  along  its 
surface,  apparently  happy  and  contented.  As  we  sat 
watching  them  and  the  noble  albatross,  as  he  went 
wheeling  and  circling  in  the  air,  we  could  not  but  think 
of  that  great  Creator  who  endowed  them  with  the  in- 
stinct which  they  possess — an  instinct  that  guides  them 
over  the  trackless  waste  of  waters  hundreds  and  thou- 
sands of  miles  from  land,  and  then  to  land  again,  day 
after  day,  and  week  after  week.  No  place  in  the  world 
presents  so  many  evidences  of  a  great  and  a  good  God 
as  the  vast  and  mighty  ocean. 

Spoke  the  ship  "  Henry,"  of  Portsmouth,  New  Hamp- 
shire, bound  for  California.  The  heavy  gales  of  wind 
still  continued,  with  rain,  hail,  snow,  and  sleet  at  inter- 
vals, until  Friday,  the  8th  of  February,  when  we  found 
we  had  passed  the  Horn,  and  were  fairly  in  the  Pacific. 

About  this  time  an  occurrence  transpired  which 
shows  a  seaman's  love  of  a  good  joke,  even  at  the  ex- 
pense of  an  officer.     It  appears  our  third  mate,  Mr.  K., 


THE   SOUTH  PACIFIC.  69 

whom  we  have  before  spoken  of  as  a  very  pompous, 
great-I-and-little-you  sort  of  a  man,  was  much  opposed 
to  the  men  enjoying  themselves  in  any  manner  if  he 
could  prevent  it,  and,  for  this  reason,  they  were  con- 
tiQually  devising  some  plan  to  torment  him.  He  had 
given  express  orders  that  no  one  of  the  watch  should  go 
below  during  their  watch  on  deck.  Mackey,  who  much 
preferred  the  warm  forecastle  to  the  cold  deck,  would 
skulk  below  every  opportunity  he  could  get.  Mr.  K. 
went  forward  on  this  occasion,  and,  as  usual,  Mackey 
was  enjoying  a  fine  nap  on  a  chest.  Mr.  K.  ordered 
him  on  deck,  telling  him  "if  he  caught  him  in  the  fore- 
castle again  that  night  he  would  break  his  head,"  and 
then  strutted  aft.  It  was  not  long  after  this  before  one 
of  the  watch  sang  out,  in  a  voice  just  loud  enough  to  be 
heard  aft,  "  Mackey,  you  had  better  come  up  on  deck ; 
if  Mr.  K.  catches  you  down  in  the  forecastle,  he  will 
surely  kill  you." 

Then  another  sings  out,  "  Mackey,  come  up  out  of 
that ;  the  third  mate  is  coming." 

Mr.  K.,  who  had  been  listening,  rushes  forward  with 
a  determined  air ;  "  he  would  show  that  Mackey  that 
he  had  got  to  walk  chalk,  or  he  would  break  his  head." 
Arriving  at  the  forecastle  scuttle,  he  cried  out,  in  a  voice 
of  thunder,  "  Come  up  here,  you  blackguard,  and  bear  a 
hand,  too."     No  answer. 

"Do  you  hear  me?  If  I  come  down  there,  I'll  kill 
you  deader  than  the  d — 1."  No  answer  yet.  Mr.  K., 
now  fairly  boiling  with  rage,  cries  out,  "  I'll  fetch  you 
out  of  that;  I'll  show  you  a  trick  or  two;"  and,  on 
turning  to  go  down,  espied  some  one  dodging  around 
the  foremast  that  bore  a  striking  resemblance  to  the 
missing  Mackey.  Quickly  coming  up  again,  he  saw 
that  it  was  really  Mackey,  who  had  not  left  the  deck. 
He  then  turned  to  the  men,  quite  chopfallen,  telling 
them  he  "never  wanted  to  hear  anv  more  such  stuff," 


70  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

and,  cursing  them  until  he  was  satisfied,  he  turned  and 
went  aft,  leaving  the  watch  convulsed  with  laughter. 

As  we  were  now  fairly  in  the  Pacific,  with  pleasant 
weather  and  fine  breezes,  steering  to  the  northward,  we 
put  the  boats  upon  the  cranes,  the  anchors  on  the  bows, 
and  cleared  up  generally,  all  hands  rejoicing  that  the 
stormy  Cape  had  been  at  length  passed. 

On  the  13th  of  February  we  saw  our  first  sperm 
whale  in  the  Pacific.  It  was  not  long  after  our  boats 
were  down  and  pursuing  him  before  the  starboard  boat 
fastened,  and  the  old  man  brought  the  "  claret"  the  first 
lance.  Soon  we  had  him  alongside,  his  coat  on  deck, 
tried  out,  and  down  in  the  hold.  We  were  now  about 
four  months  out,  with  one  hundred  and  eighty  barrels 
of  oil,  which  was  a  good  foundation  for  a  first-rate  voy- 
age. 

•  On  the  1st  day  of  March,  18 — ,  the  welcome  news 
came  from  aft,  "  All  hands  to  bend  cables,"  and  soon  the 
massive  chains  were  dragged  from  their  resting-places 
below,  and  fastened  to  the  huge  anchors,  which  were  got 
ready  for  "letting  go"  in  the  harbor  of  Talcahuana, 
Chili.  But  there  is  "  many  a  slip,"  etc.,  and  we  experi- 
enced it  here,  as  we  were  beating  about  for  nine  days, 
unable  to  enter  port  on  account  of  boisterous  head  winds. 
At  length,  however,  on  the  9th,  we  got  a  fair  wind,  and 
entered  the  harbor  with  every  thing  set,  and  "let  go" 
our  anchor — the  old  ship  at  rest  for  the  first  time  in 
four  and  a  half  months. 


THE   SOUTH   PACIFIC.  •  71 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Talcahuana.  —  Its  Streets. — Public  Buildings.— Market. — Calaboose. 
— The  Harbor.  —  Churches.  —  Paulparees. — Inhabitants. — Manners 
and  Customs. — Getting  off  Water. — Mackey  again  in  Trouble. — In  the 
Calaboose. — Califomians. — Climate  and  Products  of  Chili. — Horse- 
back Riding. — Spanish  Wake. — Desertion. — American  Consul. — 
Mackey's  Oration. — Swimming  ashore. — Departure. 

Talcahuana  is  the  sea-port  of  the  city  of  Concep- 
tion, and  is  situated  at  the  head  of  a  beautiful  bay,  pro- 
tected from  all  winds  by  the  high  lands  inclosing  it. 
At  the  entrance  of  the  harbor  is  the  island  of  Karakina, 
on  the  north  side  of  which  is  the  passage,  and  on  the 
south  side  the  false  passage,  as  it  is  called,  not  being 
navigable  for  ships.  Abreast  of  the  anchorage,  which 
is  immediately  in  front  of  the  town,  is  a  small  fort,  with 
but  few  guns,  and  in  a  very  good  position  to  do  execu- 
tion, with  proper  management.  The  houses  are  mostly 
one  story,  and  of  stone.  They  are  obliged  to  build  them 
thus  on  account  of  frequent  earthquakes.  They  pre- 
sent a  very  neat  appearance,  being  nearly  all  painted 
white,  or  whitewashed.  .The  streets  are  rather  narrow, 
but  kept  very  clean.  Talcahuana  can  not  boast  much 
of  her  public  buildings,  they  being  "few  and  far  be- 
tween." The  market,  if  it  may  be  so  called,  is  very 
large  in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  town,  being  a  wide 
space  of  ground,  inclosed  by  high  brick  walls,  with  no 
roof.  The  church,  of  which  the  inhabitants  appear  very 
proud,  presents  much  the  appearance  of  an  old  stone  barn. 
The  calaboose,  or  jail,  is  an  old  stone  building  in  rather 
a  dilapidated  condition ;  but  the  "  city  fathers,"  with  a 
just  appreciation  of  the  wants  of  their  "constituents," 


72  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE   IN 

are  engaged  in  the  erection  of  a  new  one  on  a  much 
larger  scale. 

Immediately  in  tlie  rear  of  the  town  is  a  fine  emi- 
nence. On  arriving  at  its  summit  we  found  ourselves 
well  repaid  for  our  trouble  by  the  beautiful  prospect 
before  us.  The  busy  multitude  in  the  streets  below — 
the  neat,  bright  appearance  of  the  houses — ^the  shipping 
lying  at  anchor,  with  their  various  national  colors  fly- 
ing— the  smooth,  unruffled  surface  of  the  waters  of  the 
bay,  inclosed  by  beautiful  green  hills  and  mountains — 
in  the  distance  the  blue  waters  of  the  Pacific — all  united 
to  bring  before  us  one  of  the  most  beautiful  scenes  our 
eyes  ever  beheld. 

A  number  of  years  since  the  old  city  of  Talcahuana 
was  destroyed  by  an  earthquake,  a  large  portion  of 
which  sunk.  Where  the  most  thriving  part  once  stood, 
nothing  is  now  to  be  seen  but  a  low,  marshy  waste. 
Some  remains  of  the  old  city  are  yet  visible  in  the  town. 

The  inhabitants  speak  the  Spanish  language — are  hos- 
pitable, good-natured,  and,  as  a  general  thing,  very  indo- 
lent. They  are  very  loose  in  their  morals,  but  warm 
supporters  of  their  religion,  which  is  the  Roman  Catho- 
lic, it  being  the  only  creed  tolerated.  The  females  are 
rather  dark,  very  graceful  and  sprightly,  beautiful  sing- 
ers, and  some  of  them  are  very  handsome.  The  town 
is  filled  with  "  Paulparee,"  or  rum-shops,  which  are  fre- 
quented principally  by  Spaniards  and  seamen. 

On  Monday,  March  11th,  we  commenced  getting  ofi" 
water  and  fresh  provisions,  such  as  potatoes,  onions,  tur- 
nips, etc.  In  getting  off  water,  two  boat's  crews  are  gen- 
erally dispatched  to  the  watering-place  with  a  "  raft  of 
casks,"  which  are  filled  and  towed  to  the  ship,  and  then 
hoisted  on  board.  In  this  manner  four  or  five  hundred 
barrels  of  water  are  obtained  in  about  two  days — a  suf- 
ficient quantity  for  a  six  months'  cruise.  By  some  for- 
tune or  misfortune,  Mackey  was  one  of  the  crew  di?- 


THE   SOUTH   PACIFIC.  78 

patched  to  the  watering-place,  and,  while  there,  he 
thought  he  would  take  an  observation  of  the  country 
round  about.  Accordingly,  he  wandered  some  distance 
to  the  top  of  a  high  hill,  and,  while  much  engaged  in 
viewing  the  beauties  of  nature,  two  or  three  "vigi- 
lantes," or  policemen,  appeared,  and  demanded  of  him 
"what  he  was  doing  there."  Mackey  replied,  "Noth- 
ing, but  looking  at  the  country."  They  then  asked 
him  if  he  had  a  pass  (which  is  a  necessary  article  to  ev- 
ery person  while  on  shore),  and  Mackey  was  obliged  to 
confess  he  had  not,  when  they  very  politely  offered  to 
show  him  "the  elephant."  Mackey  begged  to  be  ex- 
cused, declining  their  services ;  but  the  vigilantes  were 
not  to  be  put  off.  There  was  no  help  for  him ;  go  he 
must ;  he  was  in  a  fix ;  so  off  he  marched,  muttering 
about  liberty,  etc.,  until  they  arrived  at  the  calaboose, 
where  he  was  snugly  quartered. 

The  next  day,  being  on  shore,  we  thought  we  would 
give  Mackey  a  call,  and  see  how  the  poor  fellow  fared. 
We  found  him  in  excellent  spirits.  He  said  he  "  had 
just  as  lief  stop  there  as  not ;  for,  if  he  was  on  board 
the  ship,  he  would  have  to  work,  and  there  he  got  plenty 
to  eat  and  had  nothing  to  do." 

To-day  the  town  was  filled  with  Califomians  and  sail- 
ors— some  trying  their  hands  at  riding  on  horseback, 
and  rather  comical  work  they  make. of  it.  Others  are 
exploring  the  town,  chatting  with  pretty  girls,  banter- 
ing with  the  Spaniards,  or  enjoying  themselves  in  dan- 
cing. Some  of  them  require  considerable  sea-room, 
whether  it  is  from  the  effects  of  coming  ashore  after  a 
long  passage,  or  the  spiritual  influence  of  the  aguadente^ 
we  can  not  say.  However,  they  appear  to  be  perfectly 
at  home  and  contented. 

Chili  has  a  very  mild  and  wholesome  climate,  and  is 
very  fertile.  Large  quantities  of  fine  wheat  are  raised, 
and  agriculture  generally  receives  much  attention.    Ap- 

D 


74  LIFE   AND  ADVENTURE   IN 

pies,  peaches,  and  pears  are  raised  in  abundance,  -while 
grapes  are  cultivated  to  a  very  great  extent,  principally 
for  the  purpose  of  making  wine,  which  is  said  to  be  of 
a  very  superior  flavor.  The  face  of  the  country  pre- 
sents a  rolling  appearance,  with  occasional  high  hills, 
and  in  the  distance  are  seen,  towering  above  the  clouds, 
the  snow-covered  peaks  of  the  Andes, 

Chili  is  also  renowned  for  its  extensive  mines  of  sil- 
ver, gold,  and  copper,  which,  however,  are  not  worked 
so  much  at  present  as  formerly.  The  government  is  re- 
publican, and  quite  liberal  in  its  views. 

The  next  day,  Friday,  the  15th  of  March,  we  devoted 
to  riding  through  the  country.  The  horses  here  are 
well  trained,  but,  to  one  unaccustomed  to  the  Chilian 
mode  of  guiding  them,  ludicrous  incidents  will  some- 
times occur.  If  you  wish  to  turn  to  the  left,  you  must 
pull  the  right  rein,  and  vice  versa.  They  are  very  ten- 
der-bitted, and  a  slight  jerk  of  the  reins  will  bring  the 
horse  to  an  immediate  stand.  It  is  very  common  to  see 
a  rider  urging  his  horse  to  a  fall  run,  and,  not  under- 
standing them,  pull  the  reins  in  order  to  sit  secure, 
when,  lo  and  behold,  the  horse  suddenly  stops,  and  the 
rider  keeps  on  going,  measuring  his  length  in  the  road 
some  distance  ahead. 

While  strolling  about  town  in  the  evening,  we  heard 
low  musical  sounds  proceeding  from  a  house  near  by. 
On  presenting  ourselves  at  the  door  we  were  cordially 
invited  to  enter,  and  were  immediately  ushered  into  a 
large,  square  room,  filled  with  Spaniards  of  both  sexes. 
On  a  table  at  the  farther  end  of  the  room  was  the  corpse 
of  a  beautiful  child  of  about  two  years  of  age,  in  a  sit- 
ting posture.  Its  little  arms  were  crossed  on  its  breast ; 
the  sweet,  heavenly  smile  that  still  lingered  on  the  fea- 
tures of  clay,  and  the  fresh,  rosy  cheeks,  gave  it  a  most 
beautiful  and  angelic  appearance.  Our  first  conjecture 
on  entering  the  room  was  that  it  was  wax-work.     It 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  75 

was  dressed  in  white,  and  decorated  with  flowers.  On 
the  table  were  a  large  number  of  wax  tapers  burning, 
while  the  wall  around  and  above  was  covered  with  paint- 
ings of  the  Crucifixion,  Virgin  Mary,  etc.  In  one  corner 
of  the  room  some  seven  or  eight  persons  were  chanting 
the  solemn  death-chants  of  the  Catholic  Church,  accom- 
panied by  several  guitars.  The  parents  of  the  child 
were  seated  on  a  low  bed,  mourning  and  sobbing  in  a 
most  piteous  manner,  while  several  relatives,  as  we  sup- 
posed them  to  be,  were  gathered  around,  endeavoring  to 
comfort  them  in  their  affliction. 

We  advanced  by  invitation  and  saluted  the  corpse, 
and,  as  our  eyes  were  fixed  on  the  lovely  image,  we 
thought  we  could  almost  perceive  it  answer  our  gaze  by 
a  sweet  smile,  so  fresh  and  life-like  did  it  look.  It  was 
truly  a  solemn,  mournful,  and  yet  beautiful  sight.  Still, 
the  appearance  of  the  bottle  disgraced  the  scene,  as  it 
was  passed  from  one  to  the  other,  although  it  is  custom- 
ary at  all  Spanish  wakes. 

On  the  morning  of  Saturday,  the  16th  of  March,  we 
found  that  five  men  had  deserted  from  the  ship.  The 
liberty  of  the  remainder  of  the  crew  was  therefore  stop- 
ped, which  appeared  to  cause  considerable  dissatisfac- 
tion. However,  this  was  the  only  course  left  for  the 
captain,  as  most  of  the  men  on  board  had  made  up  their 
minds  to  desert  in  order  to  get  to  California.  Stopping 
all  communication  of  the  crew  with  the  shore  must  put 
an  end  to  the  desertions. 

This  state  of  affairs  continued  until  the  following 
Monday,  when  the  crew,  being  so  very  much  dissatisfied, 
sent  a  petition  to  the  American  consul  requesting  to  be 
discharged  from  the  ship.  He  came  on  board,  and  all 
those  wishing  to  be  discharged  were  ordered  to  take  the, 
starboard  side  of  the  quarter-deck.  The  captain,  by  re- 
quest of  the  consul,  inquired  of  each  separately  his  rea- 
sons for  wishing  to  be  discharged.     Some  gave  as  a  rea- 


76  LIFE  AKD  ADVENTUEE  IN 

son  that  they  did  not  like  the  business ;  others,  that  they 
had  been  ill  treated ;  and  one,  that  he  was  under  age 
when  he  shipped,  and  he  wanted  to  go  home.  The  con- 
sul could  scarcely  refrain  from  laughing  outright  at  such 
reasons,  and  finally  told  them  he  could  not  help  them. 
As  they  had  signed  the  ship's  articles,  he  could  not  in- 
terfere in  the  matter ;  the  captain  was  the  man  to  settle 
that. 

Mackey,  who  had  been  intently  watching  every  word 
that  fell  from  the  lips  of  the  consul,  thought  it  about 
time  for  him  to  put  in  his  oar,  and,  speaking  out,  said  he 
"  had  been  abused  at  various  times,  and  once  had  been 
kicked  while  at  the  helm."  The  of&cer  who  had  taken 
this  liberty  said  that  "  Mackey  was  asleep  at  the  helm 
one  night,  and  he  gave  him  a  slight  kick,  just  sufficient 
to  waken  him."  The  consul  replied  that  he  could  do 
nothing  about  that.  Mackey  now  broke  forth  with  great 
earnestness :  "I  thought  American  consuls  were  sent  to 
these  places  to  protect  and  defend  American  citizens, 
whether  sailors  or  captains;  but  you  say  you  can  do 
nothing  about  it.  What  are  you  good  for,  then  ?  What 
business  have  you  here  ?  You  might  much  better  be  at 
home  about  your  business.  Any  way,  you  are  good  for 
nothing  here  but  to  pamper  to  every  captain's  wishes 
that  will  give  you  a  cake  of  hard  bread  and  a  pint  of 
beans." 

This  speech  Mackey  delivered  with  great  gusto,  mak- 
ing flourishes  that  would  have  shamed  an  orator.  The 
speech,  of  course,  "brought  down  the  house,"  and  caused 
a  broad  grin  upon  the  countenance  of  all.  The  consul 
took  it  very  coolly ;  the  men  were  sent  forward,  and  he, 
in  company  with  the  captain,  left  for  shore. 

And  here  we  would  remark  that  in  many  cases  Mack- 
ey's  words  were  true.  It  is  a  shameful  and  lamentable 
fact,  that  in  many  instances  American  consuls  regard 
seamen  as  "  having  no  rights  that  they  are  bound  to  re- 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  77 

spect ;"  and  it  is  often  the  case  that  masters  of  vessels 
who  have  been  ill  treating  their  men  will,  on  entering 
port,  present  the  consul  with  a  small  quantity  of  provis- 
ions, or  something  of  that  kind,  and  the  result  is,  that 
no  "  foremast  hand"  from  that  ship  can  obtain  justice 
from  the  consul.  We  make  no  comments  on  this ;  we 
simply  state  the  facts,  and  let  our  readers  make  their  own. 

Our  crew  were  now  heartily  sick  and  tired  of  port, 
and  longed  to  be  on  the  "open  sea"  again.  On  Wednes- 
day, March  20th,  while  all  hands  were  at  breakfast, 
Mackey  determined  to  make  one  more  effort  for  his  lib- 
erty. Accordingly,  he  made  his  clothes  up  in  a  nice 
little  bundle,  fastened  them  on  his  back,  slipped  cau- 
tiously down  the  cable,  and  struck  boldly  out  for  the 
shore.  On  his  crossing  the  stern  of  a  ship,  the  captain 
of  which  had  just  come  on  deck,  and  espying  a  man 
swimming,  hailed  him : 

"Where  are  you  going,  my  man?" 

"  Going  ashore ;  where  do  you  suppose  ?"  shouted 
Mackey. 

One  of  our  ofl&cers,  happening  to  come  up  on  deck  at 
this  moment,  thought  he  saw  something  black  bobbing 
up  and  down  in  the  water  quite  a  distance  off.  On 
looking  with  the  glass,  it  was  found  to  be  Mackey,  with 
his  bunch  of  clothes  on  his  back,  and  almost  ashore. 
A  boat  was  immediately  lowered  and  went  in  chase. 
Mackey  espied  it  coming,  and  struck  out  manfully ;  as 
for  dear  life  he  swam,  but  it  was  of  no  avail.  When 
nearly  to  the  shore,  he  was  taken  and  thrust  into  the 
bottom  of  the  boat,  brought  on  board,  and  put  in  irons. 
A  ship's  company  near  us  mounted  their  rigging  and 
gave  "  three  cheers  for  the  man  who  attempted  to  swim 
ashore !" 

At  10  A.M.  of  that  day  we  weighed  anchor,  and, 
with  beautiful  weather  and  a  fine  breeze,  left  the  port 
of  Talcahuana. 


78  LIFE   AND  ADVENTUEE  IN 


CHAPTER  X. 

Cruising. — Boats'-crew  Watches. — Deserters  by  wholesale. — A  large 
Reward. — Public  Auction. — Juan  Fernandez. — Peaches. — Bobinson 
Crusoe's  Cave. — Fishing. — Ship  "  Java." — Masa  Fuero. — St.  Felix, 
— St.  Ambrose. — San  Lorenzo. — Callao. — A  Bailroad. 

We  were  now  fairly  at  sea  again,  cruising  for  whales. 
We  were  now,  as  is  customarj  for  whalemen  alone  while 
on  cruising  ground,  standing  "  boats'-crew  watches."  It 
will  be  recollected  that  in  a  foriner  chapter  we  explain- 
ed the  "  regular  watches"  of  a  ship's  company ;  but  this 
is  something  entirely  different.  The  ship's  company  are 
now  divided  into  three  equal  portions,  and  each  watch 
has  only  "  four  hours  out"  each  night  and  "  eight  hours 
in,"  instead  of  four  and  eight  hours  alternately,  as  in 
the  regular  watches.  They  are  regulated  so  as  to  alter- 
nate them  every  night,  and  are  generally  "  headed"  or 
in  charge  of  the  boat-steerers. 

It  was  during  one  of  these  watches,  on  the  morning 
of  the  25th  of  March,  that  d,  boat-steerer  and  five  fore- 
mast hands  took  the  bow  boat  from  off  the  cranes  and 
deserted  the  ship.  The  boat-steerer  who  left  was  the 
one  who  headed  the  watch.  It  was  blowing  quite  fresh 
from  the  southeast  at  the  time,  the  ship  standing  to  the 
westward-  under  double-reefed  topsails.  The  plot  had 
probably  been  concocting  for  some  days,  as  they  took 
with  them,  in  addition  to  most  of  their  clothing,  all  the 
boat  sails  and  a  quantity  of  provisions  and  water,  dis- 
abling the  other  boats  by  taking  the  "  thole-pins"  and 
hiding  them.  It  was  very  rugged  weather,  and  the  ex- 
periment was  dangerous,  as  the  ship  was  going  through 


THE   SOUTH  PACIFIC.  81 

the  water  about  six  knots.     They  succeeded,  however, 
in  getting  clear. 

As  soon  as  their  absence  was  discovered,  all  hands 
were  called,  sail  made,  and  we  tacked  ship  and  stood  in 
for  the  land,  which  was  about  one  hundred  and  eighty 
miles  distant.  At  daybreak  the  captain  offered  a  re- 
ward of  one  hundred  dollars  to  the  person  who  should 
first  raise  the  boat  from  the  masthead,  but  the  reward 
was  never  claimed. 

The  man  who  was  at  the  wheel  at  the  time  the  boat 
was  taken  said  he  knew  nothing  about  the  boat  going, 
although  the  boat-steerer  came  to  the  binnacle  and  took 
one  of  the  ship's  compasses  before  his  face.  He  said  he 
thought  the  man  wished  to  fix  the  compass.  The  cap- 
tain was  very  much  enraged,  and  could  hardly  keep  his 
hands  off  the  man. 

After  cruising  a  few  days  for  the  missing  boat,  and 
seeing  nothing,  we  squared  away  for  Juan  Fernandez. 
The  remark  that  "  we  see  something  new  every  day"  is 
as  applicable  to  whalers,  and  perhaps  more  so,  as  to  any 
thing  else.  We  now  had  something  new,  a  public  auc- 
tion ;  the  public,  the  ship's  company ;  the  auctioneer, 
the  captain  ;  the  *'  stock,"  not  Central  Eailroad,  nor  yet 
La  Crosse  and  Milwaukie  bonds,  but  the  clothing  and 
other  valuables  (I)  left  on  board  by  deserters.  This  is 
the  usual  practice  on  board  of  whalemen,  and  we  had 
several  "  public  auctions"  during  the  voyage. 

On  Tuesday,  April  2d,  1850,  we  first  sighted  the  island  v^ 
of  Juan  Fernandez,  and  the  next  day  sent  a  boat  on 
shore  for  peaches.  Another  boat  and  crew  were  dis- 
patched fishing.  This  island  looks  beautiful  from  the 
sea,  being  very  high  land,  and  completely  covered  with 
verdure.  Peaches  and  quinces  grow  here  in  great 
abundance.  Wild  goats  are  also  found  here  in  large 
numbers.  There  was  but  one  family  living  on  the  isl- 
and at  this  time,  the  head  of  which,  we  believe,  was  gov- 

D2 


62 


LIFE   AND   ADVENTURE   IN 


_  FEAK  OF  YOJiKA. 

emor !  We  need  hardly  repeat  here  that  this  island  is 
famous  for  having  been  the  residence  of  Alexander  Sel- 
kirk, a  Scotch  sailor,  who  was  put  ashore  some  years 
since,  and  remained  a  long  time  on  the  island,  his  ad- 
ventures giving  rise  to  the  well-known  story  of  Kobin- 
son  Crusoe.  The  cave  spoken  of  in  that  work  as  "Eob- 
inson  Crusoe's  Cave"  is  still  pointed  out,  whether  the 
true  one  or  not  we  are  unable  to  say. 

We  now  returned  to  the  ship  with  our  fish,  etc.,  after 
having  spent  most  of  the  day  with  poor  success,  and  lost 
our  boat-anchor.  We  found  the  other  boat  had  arrived 
with  peaches  and  quinces.  We  altered  our  course  and 
steered  north. 

The  next  day  we  saw  the  island  of  Masa  Fuero,  very 
similar  in  its  appearance  to  Juan ;  and  on  the  10th 
sighted  the  islands  of  St.  Felix  and  St.  Ambrose.  They 
present  a  rocky,  barren  appearance,  and  are  uninhabited 
except  by  sea-birds,  who  flock  there  in  great  numbers. 

On  the  I7th  we  saw  the  island  of  San  Lorenzo,  off  the 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  85 

town  of  Callao ;  and  the  next  day  we  were  "  standing 
off  and  on"  in  the  Bay  of  Callao,  Peru.  Our  captain 
here  went  ashore  to  obtain  medical  advice  and  assist- 
ance for  Mr.  Lowe,  our  second  officer,  who  has  been  for 
some  time  off  duty,  sick,  his  right  side  being  affected 
with  palsy. 

This  town  is  well  laid  out,  the  houses  mostly  one 
story.  The  streets  are  of  good  width  and  clean.  This 
city  was  also  destroyed  in  1746  by  an  earthquake,  and 
remains^are  yet  to  be  seen  as  gloomy  monuments  placed 
over  the  ill-fated  persons  who  were  thus  suddenly  cut 
off.  There  is  a  railroad  building  from  Callao  to  Lima, 
which  is  but  seven  miles  distant.  About  4  P.M.  the 
captain  and  Mr.  Lowe  returned,  and  we  filled  away  for 
Payta, 


SQ  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Payta. — Its  Appearance. — Inhabitants. — Shipped  three  Spaniards. — 
Gamming.  —  Exchanged  Boat-steerers.  —  Gloomy  Forebodings.  — 
Whales  again. — Stove  Boat. — Manuel  overboard. — No  Sunday  off 
Soundings. — Mackey  and  the  Mate. — Star-gazing. — Reflections. — 
A  County  Fair. — Lawrence  in  Trouble. 

On  Thursday,  25tli  of  April,  we  "were  off  the  anchor- 
age of  Payta.  The  land  here  presents  a  bleak,  barren 
appearance ;  not  a  tree  or  shrub  in  sight ;  nothing  but 
sand  and  rocks  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  Water  is 
furnished  the  inhabitants  by  persons  who  make  it  a 
business,  and  bring  it  a  long  distance  in  skins  on  mules. 
The  streets  of  this  town  are  narrow  and  dirty ;  the 
houses  are  miserable;  women  and  men  dissipated  and 
ugly -looking ;  fleas  abundant,  and  loafers  plenty. 

While  on  shore  here  the  captain  shipped  three  green 
Peruvians,  who  answered  to  the  cognomens  of  Manuel 
Maria,  Tom,  and  Jack ;  the  last  two  soon  getting  addi- 
tions to  their  titles,  making  them  "  Spanish  Tom"  and 
"  Nigger  Jack."  We  now  squared  our  yards,  made  sail, 
and  bid  farewell  to  this  outlandish  hole,  and  also  to  the 
South  American  coast.  We  here  spoke  and  gammed 
with  the  "  President,"  of  Nantucket,  and  the  "  Marcus," 
of  Fairhaven,  bound  home.  This  gave  us  another  op- 
portunity of  sending  a  line  to  the  "  loved  ones  at  home," 
which  we  were  glad  to  improve.  One  of  our  boat-steer- 
ers, having  been  on  the  sick-list  nearly  all  the  voyage, 
expressed  a  wish  to  return  home  in  the  "  Marcus."  Ac- 
cordingly, an  arrangement  was  soon  made  between  the 
two  captains,  and  we  took  a  Mr.  Smith  in  exchange. 
All  bid  Gifford  an  affectionate  farewell,  hoping  he  might 


THE  SOUTH   PACIFIC.  87 

be  spared  to  reacTi  his  native  land,  and  be  restored  to 
the  bosom  of  his  family.  Farewell,  Gifford — a  long  fare- 
well. You  are  going  to  your  own  dear  home ;  you  will 
soon  be  clasped  in  the  embrace  of  a  dear  mother  and 
affectionate  sisters.  God  grant  that  your  life  may  be 
spared,  that  you  may  enjoy  these  blessings. 

We  are  bound  for  the  cruising  grounds  to  the  west- 
ward, with  some  three  or  four  years  yet  before  us  ere 
we  can  behold  those  that  are  near  and  dear  to  us ;  and 
how  many  of  our  small  company  may  be  spared  to 
again  tread  their  native  shores,  God  alone  knows.  Let 
us  yield  a  cheerful  compliance  to  the  will  of  the  Al- 
mighty, knowing  that  we  are  safe  in  His  hands,  and  in 
faith  say,  "Thy  will,  not  mine,  be  done,  O  Lord." 
With  heavy  hearts  we  squared  our  yards  and  headed 
for  our  cruising  grounds. 

On  Monday,  May  13th,  spoke  ship  "Eebecca  Sims," 
of  New  Bedford,  with  whose  ship's  company  we  passed 
a  very  pleasant  day.  How  cheering  to  the  lone  mariner 
while  cruising,  with  no  land  in  sight,  and  thousands  of 
miles  from  our  own  home,  to  meet  a  ship  from  the  same 
port,  and  a  crew  speaking  the  same  language  as  our- 
selves !     It  is  like  meeting  old  friends. 

On  Saturday,  the  25th  of  May,  we  raised  a  school  of 
sperm  whales.  We  immediately  down  boats  and  after 
them.  After  some  pretty  hard  pulling,  the  chief  mate's 
boat  fastened  to  a  cow  whale,  and  killed  it.  During  the 
melee  the  boat  was  badly  stove,  and  our  giant  Manuel, 
the  Portugee,  knocked  overboard.  The  whale  was  run- 
ning with  great  speed  at  the  time,  and,  as  a  matter  of 
course,  poor  Gee  was  soon  left  a  long  distance  astern. 
However,  one  of  the  other  boats,  seeing  what  had  trans- 
pired, came  to  the  rescue,  and  Manuel  was  picked  up. 
When  they  reached  him  he  was  striking  out  manfully 
for  the  boat,  which  was  now  miles  ahead  of  him,  and 
calling  on  all  the  saints  in  the  calendar  for  help  at  the 


88  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

top  of  his  voice.  He  was  an  excellent  swimmer,  but 
greatly  frightened ;  so  much  so  that  some  of  the  boat's 
crew  that  picked  him  up  declared  that  he  was  ten 
shades  lighter.  At  sundown  we  had  the  jacket  of  the 
whale  on  deck. 

The  next  day  was  Sunday,  but  not  Sabbath.  On  all 
whalers,  while  at  sea,  mast-heads  are  manned,  whales 
chased  and  captured,  cut  in  and  tried  out  on  Sunday  as 
much  as  any  other  day  in  the  week.  Nothing  else, 
however,  except  what  is  absolutely  necessary  for  navi- 
gating the  ship,  is  done  on  this  day,  which  is  generally 
spent  by  the  crew  in  reading  and  writing.  To-day, 
while  all  hands  were  busily  employed  in  cutting  up  the 
blubber,  trying  out,  and  clearing  up  the  decks  generally, 
the  mate  missed  our  friend  Mackey  from  his  post,  which 
was  to  assist  in  hoisting  the  blubber  from  the  blubber- 
room.  He  accordingly  went  forward  to  the  forecastle, 
and,  calling  out,  asked  him  what  he  was  doing  below. 

Mackey  replied,  "Breaking  out  my  chest  to  get  a 
chaw  o'  tobacco." 

"But  would  not  any  of  the  men  on  deck  give  you  a 
chew?" 

"No,  sir,  I  don't  believe  they  would,"  replied  he, 
coolly. 

"  Well,  just  point  yourself  out  of  that,  aft,  to  the  main 
hatchway,  and  get  up  on  the  bitts,  and  stand  by  to  hoist 
that  blubber  on  deck.  Now,  mind,  don't  let  me  have 
to  look  after  you  again,  if  you  do  there  will  be  trouble ; 
stay  there  till  I  call  you  downP'' 

Mackey  took  the  place,  and  appeared  perfectly  con- 
tented with  his  new  position,  as  he  could  sit  down. 
Presently  the  mate  sang  out,  "  Come  this  way,  all  of 
you,  and  shove  this  case  overboard."  It  had  just  been 
bailed,  and  was  now  ready  to  launch  into  its  native  ele- 
ment, from  which  it  had  been  taken.  After  tugging 
and  shoving  for  a  long  time  to  no  purpose,  the  mate 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  89 

looked  around  to  see  if  any  one  was  missing,  and,  not 
seeing  him,  called  out,  "  Where  is  that  Mackey  ?" 

"Here  I  am,  sir,"  shouted  Mackey,  sitting  at  his  ease 
on  the  bitts,  looking  on  with  perfect  indifference  and 
composure. 

"What  in  the  name  of  goodness  are  you  doing 
there?" 

"  You  told  me  to  stay  here  till  you  called  me,  sir," 
said  Mackey,  not  loving  work  well  enough  to  offer  his 
services  until  he  was  called  on. 

"  Get  down  out  of  that,  you  blackguard,  and  come 
here  where  the  work  is." 

Mackey  left  his  stand  amid  the  roars  of  the  crew ; 
the  mate  himself,  who  could  always  appreciate  a  good 
joke,  could  not  refrain  from  joining  in  the  general  laugh. 

On  Tuesday,  May  28th,  we  had  most  delightful  weath- 
er, and  the  evening  was  one  of  those  beautiful,  mild, 
calm  nights  so  common  to  the  Pacific.  With  gentle 
breezes,  we  were  slowly  plowing  our  way  to  the  Mar- 
quesas Islands.  The  stars  shone  forth  in  all  their  re- 
splendent beauty,  and  not  a  cloud  was  to  be  seen  in  the 
whole  face  of  the  heavens.  It  was  truly  a  lovely  night, 
and  the  all-pervading  stillness  seemed  to  remind  us  of 
our  own  loneliness,  and  our  thoughts  naturally  reverted 
to  other  scenes — to  the  far-distant  home;  to  the  dear 
friends  and  loved  ones  to  whom  we  bid  a  hasty  but  sad 
farewell.  Do  these  dear  friends  ever  bestow  a  thought 
or  breathe  a  prayer  for  the  welfare  of  the  wanderer? 
Were  they  thinking  of  the  one  far,  far  away  ?  and  when 
they  assemble  around  the  festive  board,  or  form  the 
family  circle  about  the  fireside,  do  they  miss  the  absent 
one?  Oh,  what  joy  would  it  have  been  to  have  known 
that  there  were  some  in  the  land  of  our  birth  that  miss- 
ed us,  and  prayed  for  the  return  of  the  wanderer! 
What  joy  would  it  have  been  to  know  that  our  friends 
were  enjoying  that  blessing,  health!    What  a  consola- 


90  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

tion  to  have  been  assured  that  they  were  spared  the 
ravages  of  disease  and  death !  But  this  pleasure  was 
denied  us.  Thousands  of  miles  of  blue  water  rolled  be- 
tween us  and  our  homes.  What  recollections  crowd 
upon  the  mind  at  the  mention  of  home  !  The  dear  old 
village,  where  we  have  sported  with  all  the  joys  of 
youth — the  old  school-house,  where  we  for  hours  and 
hours  have  sat  trying  the  patience  of  the  teacher,  con- 
ning our  lesson,  perhaps,  or  engaged  in  some  mischief — 
the  stream,  along  whose  banks  we  have  so  often  strolled, 
listening  to  the  merry  carol  of  the  birds,  and  annoying 
the  finny  tribe — the  hills,  over  which  we  have  rambled 
with  bo;yish  glee — the  woods,  in  whose  pleasant  retreats 
we  have  passed  so  many  happy  hours — ^schoolmates, 
the  beautiful  fair  ones — and  lastly,  though  not  least, 
dear  parents,  brothers  and  sisters — all  rushed  through 
the  brain  in  a  tumultuous  whirl,  and  we  found  ourselves 
unconsciously  sighing  for  the  pleasures  of  home.  But, 
alas!  we  awoke  to  the  sad  reality  of  our  situation. 
Thousands  and  tens  of  thousands  of  miles  of  blue  water 
must  be  beat  ere  we  could  again  clasp  in  our  arms  those 
we  held  so  dear;  and  we  could  only  look  up  to  Him 
who  "  ruleth  the  waves,"  and  trust  in  His  protection. 
What  consolation  to  our  fainting  heart  these  words: 
"  Be  still,  and  know  that  I  am  God." 

The  men  forward  had  aroused  from  their  lethargy, 
and  some  were  whiling  away  the  time  singing,  others 
telling  yarns;  Spanish  Jack  and  Portuguese  Manuel 
were  seated  by  themselves,  thumping  on  an  old  fiddle ; 
Jo  Bob  was  amusing  some  of  the  boys  by  giving  them 
a  specimen  of  his  island  dancing  and  singing.  The 
watch  below  were  in  about  the  same  condition,  "  lying 
around  loose,"  listening  to  a  long  yarn  spun  by  Law- 
rence about  a  county  fair  that  took  place  down  in 
Maine.  As  usual,  his  stories  would  not  "  match."  He 
gave  a  full  description  of  the  whole  affair.     "  The  ta- 


THE  SOUTH   PACIFIC.  91 

ble,"  he  said,  "  was  about  three  or  four  hundred  feet 
long,  and  about  six  thousand  people  sat  down  to  dinner 
at  one  timeP^  Some  of  the  boys  inquired  "what  they 
had  to  drink."  "Strong  beer,"  replied  Lawrence; 
whereupon  one  of  the  watch  said  "  he  had  lied  to  him, 
as  he  had  often  stated  that  the  people  down  in  Maine 
never  indulged  in  strong  drink."  But  Lawrence  was 
not  to  be  caught  in  this  manner,  and  he  readily  replied, 
"Well,  it  was  not  so  very  strong;  it  was  made  of 
spruce  P^  All  the  watch  now  joined  in  a  hearty  laugh 
at  Lawrence's  expense. 

Meanwhile  the  order  of  arrangements  on  deck  were 
somewhat  different.  It  happened  that  Lawrence's  berth, 
which  was  an  upper  one,  was  chock  forward  in  the 
"  eyes"  of  the  ship,  and  one  of  the  dead  lights — used  for 
the  purpose  of  letting  air  and  light  into  the  forecastle, 
which  opened  exactly  abreast  his  face — was  left  open. 
One  of  the  watch  on  deck,  having  listened  to  Lawrence's 
yarn,  and  wishing  to  have  a  little  sport  at  his  expense, 
stationed  himself  over  the  bows,  on  the  martingale  guys, 
and,  as  Lawrence  rolled  over,  gave  him  a  bucket  of  wa- 
ter, dash  in  the  face,  almost  drowning  the  poor  fellow. 
As  soon  as  he  could  speak,  for  he  was  terribly  frighten- 
ed, and  his  bed  was  fairly  afloat,  Lawrence  commenced 
jawing  about  the  man  at  the  helm  "getting  the  ship 
off  her  course."  It  was  as  smooth  as  a  mill-pond,  but 
he  had  the  idea  that  the  sea  had  washed  in.  His  sleep 
was  spoiled  for  that  watch  below,  as  the  whole  watch 
were  shouting  and  laughing,  and  he  growling  and  put- 
ting on  dry  clothing. 


92  LIFE  AND  ADVEIiTTURE  IN 


CHAPTER  Xn. 

Marquesas  Islands. — Dominica. — Its  Appearance. — Visitors. — Tattoo- 
ing.— The  Chief. — His  costly  Dress. — Delivers  his  Papers. — A  "  Rec- 
ommend."— Society  Islands. — Roratonga. — Its  Appearance. — New 
York. — New  Bedford. — ^Too  many  Friends. — The  universal  Remedy. 
— Fruit. — A  thieving  Set.  —  Missionaries. — Petty  Tyrannies  prac- 
ticed.— Rev.  John  Williams. — His  Death. — The  staple  Commodity. 
— The  Desire  for  Sea. — Queen  and  Government. — Desertion. — Gen- 
eral Losses. — Jo  Bob's  Choice. — A  merry  Time. 

On  Thursday,  June  Cth,  we  raised  tlie  island  of  Do- 
minica, one  of  the  Marquesas  group.  This  island  pre- 
sents a  beautiful  appearance  from  the  sea.  The  thick 
groves  of  the  cocoanut,  orange,  lime,  and  bread-fruit- 
trees,  with  the  native  huts  occasionally  peeping  out  from 
under  the  foliage;  the  mountains  in  the  background, 
thickly  studded  with  magnolia  groves ;  a  beautiful 
stream  of  water  trickling  down  the  sides  of  large  mount- 
ains, here  and  there  inclosed  by  the  trees,  are  all  plainly 
visible  from  the  ship,  and  make  us  long  to  ramble  among 
them. 

A  canoe  was  seen  approaching  us,  and  the  main  yard 
was  hauled  aback,  when  it  was  soon  alongside.  The 
natives  were  certainly  the  most  singular-looking  beings 
we  had  ever  beheld.  They  are  about  medium  size, 
copper-colored,  and  wear  no  clothing  except  a  smaU 
piece  of  tappa — a  native  cloth  pounded  out  from  bark 
— around  their  loins.  Their  faces  and  bodies  were  tat- 
tooed in  such  a  manner  that  they  look  truly  frightful. 
Some  have  a  broad  stripe  running  diagonally  across  the 
face ;  others  had  half  the  face  tattooed ;  others  one  eye, 
with  a  black  mark  abreast  of  it ;  some  the  lower  half 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  93 

of  the  face.  Their  bodies  presented  all  the  variations 
of  the  kaleidoscope. 

The  chief,  who  is  quite  a  dignitary,  was  "  dressed  up" 
for  the  great  occasion.  His  dress  consisted  of  an  old  over- 
coat that  reached  nearly  to  his  knees,  with  a  large  white 
button  tied  by  a  string  about  a  foot  in  length  to  the  back 
part,  and  an  old  bell-crown  "beaver,"  about  four  sizes 
too  large,  completely  covering  his  head  and  ears.  This 
completed  his  wardrobe,  and  a  truly  comical  appear- 
ance he  presented  as  he  approached  the  captain,  pulled 
off  his  beaver,  pulled  out  his  papers,  and  presented  them 
with  the  air  of  a  man  of  business.  The  papers  were 
recom/mends  from  captains  who  had  traded  with  him, 
but  he  knew  nothing  contained  in  them.  One  of  them, 
of  which  we  obtained  a  sight,  read  in  this  wise:  "Be- 
ware of  this  fellow ;  he  is  dishonest  and  a  villain ;  do 
not  allow  him  to  persuade  you  to  go  ashore  with  him," 
A  nice  "recommend,"  truly.  And  here  we  will  re- 
mark that  the  tribe  at  this  bay  are  cannibals  of  the 
fiercest  kind,  and  it  would  not  be  very  safe  for  a  boat's 
crew  to  go  among  them. 

As  we  were  in  haste  to  reach  the  Society  Islands,  we 
politely  took  leave  of  our  visitors  and  the  comical-look- 
ing old  chief,  and  braced  forward,  soon  leaving  the  beau- 
tiful island  of  Dominica  far  astern. 

We,  in  the  course  of  two  or  three  days,  passed  several 
of  the  Societies,  and  on  Saturday  the  22d  of  June,  sight- 
ed the  island  of  Eoratonga,  the  one  to  which  we  were 
bound.  The  island,  like  all  those  in  the  tropics,  especial- 
ly those  composing  the  Marquesan  and  Society  group, 
presents  the  most  rich  and  beautiful  appearance.  The 
land,  as  it  recedes  back  from  the  sea,  rises  to  a  consider- 
able height,  and  is  dressed  in  the  brightest  green  foliage ; 
the  sandy  beach,  washed  by  the  never-ceasing  rollers, 
with  the  neat  white  houses  quietly  reposing  beneath  the 
thick  shade  of  the  myriads  of  cocoanut,  orange,  and 


94  LIFE  AND  ADVENTUEE   IN 

banana  trees,  renders  it  the  most  beautiful  island  we 
have  ever  beheld.  As  we  stood  viewing  it  from  the 
ship,  while  drawing  nearer  and  nearer,  we  could  but 
imagine  it  to  be  some  Eden  of  happiness,  where  yet  the 
passion  of  man  had  not  stepped  in  to  mar  and  spoil  its 
beauty.  But  even  here  we  found  that  the  "serpent" 
had  entered  and  filled  it  with  sin. 

There  are  three  villages  on  this  island,  named  New 
York,  New  Bedford,  and  the  one  at  which  we  stopped, 
Eoratonga.  We  believe  there  are  about  eight  hundred 
inhabitants  in  this  village.  From  appearances,  they  are 
not  very  cleanly  in  their  persons,  and  are  rather  forbid- 
ding. Most  of  them,  however,  wear  European  clothing, 
which  they  obtain  from  ships.  They  endeavor  to  make 
themselves  \ery  friendly,  and,  as  soon  as  you  land,  they 
throng  about  you  as  numerous  as  runners  in  Albany  on 
landing  from  a  North  Eiver  steam-boat,  exclaiming,  in 
very  good  broken  English,  "  How  de  do,  my  fliend?  You 
be  my  fliend  ?  Go  my  house ;  me  got  plenty  fruit  my 
house."  Each  one  does  his  best  to  make  you  understand 
he  is  your  very  particular  friend;  very  disinterestedly,  of 
course,  as  we  found  to  our  cost.  We  accepted  the  in- 
vitation of  one  of  these,  who  would  have  it  that  he  was 
our  very  particular  friend — in  fact,  he  almost  claimed 
relationship — and  accompanied  him  to  his  house.  On 
arriving  at  his  "  house,"  we  found  it  to  be  a  long  stone 
building,  whitewashed,  consisting  of  but  one  apartment, 
with  a  curtain  or  screen  in  the  centre,  which  probably 
served  as  a  partition,  making  two  rooms.  The  inmates 
consisted  of  two  or  three  young,  dirty,  ugly-looking  fe- 
males, one  of  them  cross-eyed,  and  another  that  had  lost 
an  eye,  and  an  old  lady,  who  kept  up  a  constant  cry, 
begging  for  tobacco.  *'  Too  much  sore,  my  toose ;  small 
piece  bacca."  We  soon  found  this  "sore  toose"  very 
prevalent,  and  "  bacca"  the  imiversal  remedy — ^the  great 
cure-all.     After  supplying  their  "immediate  necessi- 


THE   SOUTH  PACIFIC.  95 

ties,"  we  sat  down  to  eat  some  oranges  and  bananas  of- 
fered to  us.  This  island  abounds  with  all  kinds  of 
tropical  fruit,  and  we  soon  struck  a  bargain  for  all  we 
wanted  ;/*  and, , on  arising  to  go,  found  they  had  stolen 
all  our  tobacco  and  pocket-knives.  They  are  expert 
thieves  and  arrant  rogues ;  no  dependence  can  be  placed 
on  them. 

The  Englisb  have  a  missionary  station  here,  estab- 
lished several  years  since.  Some  of  the  natives  like  the 
present  missionary,  and  some  do  not.  The  chiefs  or 
rulers  uphold  him,  but  the  "people"  say  he  is  "no 
good ;"  he  makes  them  "  work  too  much."  One  of  them 
informed  us — and  we  afterward  found  it  to  be  true — 
that  if  a  Kanaka  failed  to  attend  church  on  Sabbath,  he 
had  to  pay  the  missionary  one  dollar,  either  in  money 
or  fruit ;  if  he  smoked  on  the  Sabbath,  the  same  pen- 
alty ;  and  several  other  petty  tyrannies  are  practiced, 
which  has  the  effect  of  causing  the  natives  to  hate  the 
missionary  and  the  Gospel  he  teaches,  and  shows  that 
unprincipled  as  well  as  good  men  are  sent  out,  though 
not  known  to  be  such  by  those  who  send  them,  to  spread 
the  Gospel  among  the  heathen.  If  a  native  wishes  a 
Bible,  he  must  pay  the  sum  of  one  dollar  for  it,  and  the 
same  if  a  sailor  wants  one.  Such  things  as  these  tend 
more  to  cause  a  feeling  of  hatred  against  the  missionary 
and  his  work  than  of  love. 

On  this  island  is  the  grave  of  the  Eev.  John"  Wil- 
liams, the  pioneer  missionary,  who  was  universally  be- 
loved and  respected  by  the  natives.  He  was  a  noble  as 
well  as  "a  good  man,  and  was  actuated  by  none  but  the 
purest  motives.  He  faithfully  labored  to  enlighten  the 
heathen,  and  to  diffuse  the  glorious  blessings  of  the  Gos- 
pel of  Jesus  Cheist  among  them,  and  his  labors  were 
greatly  blessed.  After  establishing  several  missionary 
stations,  he  went  to  the  island  of  Tanna,  one  of  the  Heb- 
rides, where  the  natives  were  cannibals,  and  groveling 


96  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE   IN 

in  the  darkest  superstition.  On  attempting  to  land, 
witli  a  desire  to  create  a  friendly  feeling  with  the  na- 
tives, they  rushed  for  him,  and,  as  he  attempted  to  reach 
the  boat,  he  was  struck  by  a  spear  and  killed.  They 
hauled  the  body  clear  of  the  beach,  and  refused  to  give 
it  up.  However,  we  learn  they  have  since  delivered  up 
the  remains,  which  were  taken  to  Eoratonga  and  buried. 
Thus  perished  this  great  and  good  man,  at  the  hand  of 
those  to  whom  he  would  have  done  naught  but  good. 

The  staple  commodity  here  is  tobacco,  which  is  very- 
scarce,  and  readily  commands  a  high  price.  For  in- 
stance, half  a  pound  of  ordinary  "  plug"  will  purchase 
two  hundred  oranges,  and  other  fruit  in  the  same  pro- 
portion. The  natives,  both  male  and  female,  are  very 
much  addicted  to  its  use — never  chewing,  but  forever 
smoking. 

Quite  a  number  of  the  natives  came  on  board,  wish- 
ing to  go  to  sea  with  us,  as  they  say  "  too  much  work 
ashore."  It  appears  they  are  building  a  church,  and 
they  do  not  wish  to  work,  as  they  receive  no  pay.  We 
are  glad  to  be  able  to  say  that  this  missionary  station  is 
an  exception ;  that  at  no  other  one  that  we  visited  dur- 
ing our  wanderings  were  the  natives  tyrannized  over  as 
they  were  here.  We  are  glad,  too,  for  the  honor  of  our 
country,  that  this  missionary  was  not  an  American. 

The  government  is  administered  by  the  queen  and 
missionary,  or,  we  should  rather  say,  the  missionary  and 
the  queen,  as  she  is  merely  a  nominal  sovereign.  She 
is  a  very  dignified  lady,  weighing  about  three  hundred 
pounds.  Next  in  rank  come  the  "  chiefs,"  who  are  mem- 
bers of  the  royal  family,  and,  with  the  sovereigns  above 
mentioned,  form  the  council,  or  law-making  power. 
Next  come  the  "  kikos,"  or  constables,  who  see  that  all 
laws  are  properly  enforced,  and  arrest  those  who  arc 
guilty  of  violating  them.  As  there  was  a  law  in  force 
preventing  any  of  the  inhabitants  leaving  the  island 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  97 

without  the  consent  of  the  missionary,  those  who  had 
come  on  board,  wishing  to  go  to  sea  with  us,  were  com- 
pelled to  return  to  land,  which  they  did  with  sorrowful 
hearts.  Our  captain,  however,  obtained  the  necessary 
consent,  and  shipped  three,  whom  he  chose  while  ashore. 

Wood  and  water  all  aboard,  ship  loaded  down  with 
luscious  tropical  fruit,  such  as  oranges,  bananas,  pine- 
apples, cocoanuts,  limes,  lemons,  plantains,  etc.,  on  Tues- 
day, June  25th,  we  were  ready  to  take  our  departure 
from  this  lovely  isle.  In  the  last  boat  that  went  ashore 
this  morning,  one  of  the  crew,  by  the  name  of  Bob 
White,  a  miserable  specimen  of  a  most  miserable  French- 
man, who  had  imposed  upon  the  captain,  palming  him- 
self off  as  a  "  first-rate  steward,"  and  who  had  been  ship- 
ped in  that  capacity  in  America,  but  kicked  forward  the 
second  day  out  from  home,  managed  to  steal  into  the 
boat  unobserved,  and,  while  ashore,  deserted.  All  hands,  ^ 
from  captain  down,  were  glad  to  be  well  rid  of  him. 

When  once  more  at  sea,  the  crew,  on  looking  into 
chests  and  examining  their  possessions,  begin  to  miss 
different  articles  of  clothing,  etc. :  one  has  had  his  shoes 
stolen;  another  a  shirt;  another  his  blanket;  another 
his  jacket,  etc.  All  appear  to  have  lost  something,  and 
they  say,  if  we  had  remained  there  much  longer,  the 
natives  would  have  stolen  us  poor. 

"  Isle  of  booty,  fare  thee  well." 

Perhaps,  however,  we  were  well  recompensed,  as,  upon 
examination  when  the  watch  was  set,  we  found  that  we 
had  three  more  Kanakas  than  were  shipped  by  the  cap- 
tain. The  old  ship  had  stolen  them  in  return  for  the* 
natives  plundering  her  crew.  The  captain  was  much 
opposed  to  this  proceeding  on  the  part  of  the  ship,  but, 
as  the  island  was  now  out  of  sight,  and  we  were  fast 
leaving  it  with  a  fair  wind,  he  consented  to  their  going 
with  us. 

E 


98  LIFE   AND   ADVENTURE   IN 

Our  old  Kanaka  friend,  Jo  Bob,  who  had  come  from 
America  with  us  for  the  express  purpose  of  going  home 
and  remaining,  after  being  ashore  a  day  or  two,  came  on 
board,  and  wished  to  "  go  the  voyage."  We  were  very 
much  surprised  at  this,  and  at  first  could  not  account  for 
it,  but  presently  he  "  let  the  cat  out  of  the  bag,"  saying 
the  "  Kanakas  had  got  to  work — ^build  meetin'-house," 
and,  as  he  was  a  sailor,  he  spurned  the  idea  of  mixing 
mortar  or  carrying  the  hod.  Jo  thought  the  least  of  the 
two  evils  was  the  old  ship ;  and  he  might  well  say  that, 
for  he  was  as  lazy  as  a  "  Mahone  soger,"  and  had  seen 
easy  times  on  board. 

In  the  evening  all  hands  appeared  to  be  in  the  best 
humor  possible.  The  fruit  had  been  freely  distributed, 
and  each  man  had  received  as  much  as  he  wanted  for  a 
month.  All  were  busy  discussing  its  qualities,  spin- 
ning yarns,  singing  and  dancing ;  while  the  Kanakas, 
seven  in  number,  were  having  their  "hula  hula,"  or 
dances,  accompanied  with  songs,  in  high  glee.  These 
performances  were  very  interesting  to  us,  as  we  never 
before  witnessed  them.  They  have  what  they  call  their 
love  dance,  missionary  dance,  whaling  dance,  and  war 
dance.  Their  gestures,  songs,  and  dances  very  much 
resemble  those  of  the  North  American  Indians, 


THE   SOUTH  PACIFIC. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Making  Passage  to  King  Mill  Group.. — Fourth  of  July. — Byron's  Island. 
— Perote  Island. — Drummond's  Island. — Sydenham's  Island. — Visit 
from  the  Natives. — Their  Canoes. — Themselves. — Trade.  —  "Dit- 
toes."— Taking  of  the  "Triton." — A  treacherous  Portuguese. — A 
bloody  Massacre. — A  just  Retribution. — The  Kanaka's  Stratagem. — 
The  Natives  frightened. — Prisoners  ashore. — A  young  Hero. — Hos- 
tages.— The  Prisoners  released. — Proceed  to  the  Sandwich  Islands. — 
Henderville's  Island. — Woodle's  Island. — Natives  again.  —  "Tekv 
moi  moi." — ^Young  Cocoanuts. — Decidedly  Jewish. — Easily  satisfied. 
— Description  of  Natives. — The  Females. — A  large  Fleet. — Compari- 
sons.— Simpson's  Island.  —  Ship  "Narragansett." — Stove  Boat. — 
Fisherman's  Luck. — Experiments  in  Mesmerism. — Somebody  "sold." 

We  were  now  making  passage  for  the  "  King  Mill 
Group,"  which  is  a  group  of  small  islands  greatly  cele- 
brated for  being  a  good  sperm  whaling  ground.  Our 
captain  had  filled  the  same  ship  in  which  we  now  were 
on  this  ground  but  a  few  years  before,  and  it  was  to  be 
our  principal  place  of  cruising  for  a  year  or  fourteen 
months,  at  least. 

And  now  we  come  to  Thursday,  July  4th — the  nev- 
er-to-be-forgotten Fourth  of  July — our  first  one  at  sea. 
While  our  friends  at  home  are  celebrating  the  anniver- 
sary of  American  Independence,  we  are  deprived  the 
pleasure  of  being  with  them  in  person,  yet  we  are  with 
them  in  spirit,  and  the  spark  of  patriotism  glows  as 
brightly  in  the  small  company  of  Americans  on  board 
as  if  we  had  been  within  hearing  of  the  booming  can- 
non, the  joyful  peal  rung  out  by  the  merry  bells,  the 
patriotic  oration  and  sentiment;  and,  although  among 
the  wild  Isles  of  the  Pacific,  and  thousands  of  leagues 
from  the  "  home  of  the  free,"  yet  the  return  of  this  day 


100 


LIFE   AND   ADVENTURE   IN 


sent  a  ttrill  of  joy  througli  every  frame,  and  we  felt 
thankful  to  the  God  who  watched  over  the  cradle  of 
the  infant  nation,  who  still  guides  its  footsteps  as  it  ap- 
proaches manhood,  and  who  is  ever  blessing  it  with 
heaven's  choicest  blessings.  May  no  American  ever  fail 
to  render  thanks  for  this  anniversary,  in  whatever  clime 
he  may  be  situated. 

On  Tuesday,  July  23d,  we  saw  the  most  eastern  isl- 
and of  the  group,  Byron's  Island,  and  the  next  day 
sighted  Perote  Island.  These  islands  are  all  coral  for- 
mations, very  low,  are  inhabited,  and  thickly  covered 
with  cocoanut-trees.  On  Saturday,  the  27th,  we  passed 
Drummond's  Island,  and  sighted  Sydenham's  Island. 
From  the  latter  the  natives  came  off  in  great  numbers 
to  trade.     Their  canoes  are  constructed  of  narrow,  thin 


SYPEKnAM   ISLAND  OANOE. 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  101 

strips  of  wood,  the  cocoanut,  fastened  with  small  line 
made  from  the  cocoanut  husk ;  are  sharp  at  both  ends, 
very  narrow,  and  are  prevented  from  capsizing  by  a 
long  piece  of  wood  placed  parallel  with  the  canoe  and 
made  fast  to  it,  called  the  "outrigger."  They  have  a 
mast,  with  a  three-cornered  mat  sail,  made  from  the  leaf 
of  the  cocoanut-tree,  and  rigged  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
admit  of  sailing  in  either  direction  without  turning  the 
canoe.  They  have  them  of  all  sizes,  from  the  small  ones 
carrying  but  one  person,  to  the  large  war-canoes  carry- 
ing one  hundred. 

The  natives  are  a  wild-looking  set  of  copper-colored 
beings,  in  a  complete  state  of  nudity,  their  bodies  tat- 
tooed, and  covered  with  cocoanut  oil,  which  is  their  per- 
fumery. They  are  of  medium  size,  but  very  powerful. 
They  are  all  merchants,  bringing  with  them,  to  trade 
with  ships,  shells,  fish,  mats,  cocoanuts,  and  a  species  of 
fruits  called  "  dittoes."  These  grow  in  large  bunches, 
very  compact,  and  similar  to  figs  packed  in  a  box.  On 
the  outside  of  the  bunch  they  are  green ;  on  breaking 
them  apart,  you  find  about  two  thirds  of  the  length,  from 
the  inner  end,  is  of  a  bright  golden  color,  and  of  an  ex- 
cellent flavor.  The  currency  here,  as  at  most  of  the  Ka- 
naka Islands,  is  tobacco  and  pipes,  and  for  this  they  will 
follow  a  ship  for  mile's.  As  it  was  near  night,  we  made 
sail  and  motioned  them  ashore. 

At  this  island  a  few  years  since,  the  natives,  led  on  by 
a  Portugee,  who  was  living  among  them  at  this  time,  at- 
tempted to  take  the  ship  "  Triton,"  of  New  Bedford, 
Captain  Spencer.  The  plot  was  well  laid  and  matured, 
and  the  natives  went  off  to  the  ship  and  informed  the 
captain,  by  signs,  they  had  a  fine  "  fluke-chain"  ashore, 
and  wanted  to  sell  it.  He  asked  them  where  they  got 
it,  when  they  replied,  "  Kiabuka  broke"  (ship  broke), 
conveying  the  idea  that  a  ship  had  been  wrecked  here 
some  time  previous.    As  the  captain  was  desirous  of  ob- 


102  LIFE  AND   ADVENTURE   IN 

taining  a  cliain  of  this  description,  he  immediately,  with- 
out suspecting  their  dark  and  bloody  designs,  ordered 
his  boat  to  be  lowered  away  and  manned.  On  arriving 
on  shore,  and  before  they  suspected  any  treachery,  they 
were  seized  and  bound.  The  Portugee  then,  with  a  large 
number  of  natives,  went  off  to  the  ship  to  trade,  as  they 
intimated.  The  crew,  when  they  arrived,  were  mostly 
down  below,  and  the  third  mate  was  asleep  in  one  of  the 
boats.  When  the  natives  had  collected  on  deck  in  suf- 
ficient numbers,  they  made  a  rush  for  the  "  spades," 
which  hung  overhead  on  the  quarter-deck,  and,  before 
any  one  was  aware  of  what  was  transpiring,  had  posses- 
sion of  the  deck.  They  killed  the  man  at  the  helm,  two 
or  three  foremast  hands,  the  second  mate,  steward,  and 
cook,  and  then  proceeded  to  the  cabin,  where  the  mate 
was  lying  asleep.  He  was  aroused  by  the  noise,  but  too 
late  to  offer  any  resistance ;  they,  attacking  him,  cut  and 
mangled  him  in  a  horrible  manner,  and  left  him,  as  they 
supposed,  dead. 

The  Portugee,  who  led  on  the  savages,  now  proceed- 
ed to  the  deck  in  order  to  make  a  finish  of  the  bloody 
job,  massacre  the  remainder  of  the  crew,  who  were  con- 
fined in  the  forecastle,  and  then  work  the  ship  ashore  into 
the  breakers.  The  third  mate,  who  had  become  aroused 
by  the  noise,  but  wisely  kept  quiet  until  he  saw  the  Por- 
tugee passing  abreast  of  him,  suddenly  darted  a  lance 
with  such  unerring  aim  that  it  was  driven  completely 
through  his  body,  killing  him  instantly.  The  natives 
were  greatly  frightened  at  this,  and  attacked  the  third 
officer,  but  he  managed  to  elude  them,  and  escaped  be- 
low. They  now  fired  muskets,  which  they  had  taken 
from  the  cabin,  already  loaded,  down  the  skylight,  until 
they  saw  it  was  useless,  when  they  directed  their  whole 
energies  to  getting  the  ship  into  the  breakers.  One  of 
the  crew  happened  to  be  a  Kanaka,  and  they  ordered 
him  to  the  helm,  and  to  keep  the  ship  headed  for  the 


THE   SOUTH   PACIFIC.  103 

land,  threatening  him  with  instant  death  if  he  failed. 
But  he  was  secretly  determined  to  thwart  their  horrible 
purposes,  and  accordingly  kept  the  ship  headed  nearly 
in  a  contrary  direction.  As  soon  as  the  natives  discov- 
ered they  were  leaving  the  land  instead  of  approaching 
it,  they  were  about  to  put  their  threat  into  execution; 
but  he  made  them  to  understand  that  he  could  not  steer 
the  ship,  knew  nothing  about  it,  etc.  One  of  the  chiefs 
then  told  him  to  go  to  masthead  and  keep  a  look-out, 
and  he  would  steer  the  ship  ashore.  He  immediately 
mounted  the  rigging,  and  with  the  agility  of  a  monkey 
was  soon  aloft  at  masthead.  Not  deeming  it  prudent  to 
make  known  his  purpose  too  soon,  he  waited ;  the  ship 
was  gradually  approaching  the  breakers,  where  she 
would  soon  be  more  than  ever  in  the  power  of  these 
bloodthirsty  cannibals.  But  the  time  has  come  for  re- 
lief; "  Sail  ho  !"  is  the  cry  from  aloft ;  and  the  rascals 
are  jumping  overboard  into  the  water  and  their  canoes, 
and  paddling  for  dear  life  to  the  shore,  with  fright  de- 
picted on  every  countenance.  The  brave  Kanaka,  who 
had  by  this  stratagem  succeeded  in  saving  the  ship,  now 
came  down  on  deck  and  released  the  men  in  the  fore- 
castle, who,  with  the  third  mate,  immediately  headed  the 
ship  off  shore,  and,  supposing  the  captain  and  his  boat's 
crew  all  murdered,  made  all  sail.  The  mate,  who  was 
left  for  dead,  recovered  gradually.  After  a  long  pas- 
sage, they  made  the  port  of  Honolulu,  Sandwich  Islands. 
The  captain,  together  with  his  boat's  crew,  whom  we 
left  on  shore  bound,  were,  for  some  unknown  reason, 
kept  still  alive  as  prisoners.  The  natives  finally,  at  a 
council  held,  determined  to  murder  them^all.  The  ar- 
rangements were  all  completed.  The  captain  was  first 
led  forth,  firmly  bound,  and,  in  imitation  of  our  North 
American  Indians,  they  laid  his  head  upon  the  fatal 
block ;  the  executioner,  with  his  massive  war-club  in 
readiness,  awaits  but  the  word  from  the  chief  which  is 


104  LIFE  AND   ADVENTURE   IN 

to  send  a  soul  into  eternity.  But  who  is  this  rushing 
forward,  and,  Pocahontas-like,  braving  the  ire  of  that 
dread  chief,  and  proudly,  firmly  demanding  the  life  of 
Captain  Spencer  and  the  white  men  with  him  ?  'Tis  the 
son  of  the  chief,  who,  with  fire  in  his  eye  and  determina- 
tion in  every  line  of  his  features,  tells  them  "they  tmist 
not  murder  the  white  men  ;  if  they  do,  plenty  America 
Fire  Kiabuka  come,  kill  all  Kanaka."  The  bravery  and 
reasoning  of  the  brave  boy  -  chief  prevailed,  and  their 
lives  were  spared,  though  still  kept  "  in  bonds." 

After  some  weeks  had  passed  a  ship  came  to  the  isl- 
and to  trade,  and,  through  some  one  of  the  natives,  the 
captain  ascertained  the  fact  that  Captain  Spencer  and  his 
men  were  held  prisoners.  The  captain  and  crew  of  the 
ship  trading  immediately  seized  and  bound  a  number  of 
the  natives  on  board  as  hostages,  telling  the  remainder 
that  if  Captain  S.  and  his  men  were  not  instantly  forth- 
coming, unharmed,  those  detained  on  board  as  hostages 
should  swing  at  the  yard-arm.  This  threat  had  the  de- 
sired effect.  Captain  Spencer  and  his  men  were  liber- 
ated from  their  criiel  bondage,  and  kindly  received  by 
all  on  board.  The  captain  proceeded  to  the  Sandwich 
Islands,  where  he  now  resides ;  and  when  narrating  to 
us  the  above  particulars,  although  an  old  sea-dog^  the  tear 
would  trickle  down  the  weather-beaten  cheek  as  he  re- 
called to  mind  the  fate  of  those  who  were  so  cruelly 
murdered,  and  his  own  miraculous  escape. 

On  Wednesday,  July  31st,  we  saw  Henderville's  and 
Woodle's  Islands.  We  headed  for  the  latter,  and  when 
two  or  three  miles  from  land  our  decks  were  crowded 
with  natives,  all  bringing  something  to  trade.  A  lively 
scene  now  presented  itself,  equaling  any  of  our  large 
trading  marts,  though  not,  perhaps,  on  quite  as  extensive 
a  scale.  Here  might  be  seen  a  native  offering  a  hat  to 
a  sailor,  and  each  one  endeavoring  to  get  the  best  of  the 
bargain ;  another  was  offering  mats,  another  shells,  and 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  105 

SO  on  to  the  end,  all  for  "  'baccy."  At  this  island  we 
found  something  in  the  shape  of  molasses  that  we  had 
never  yet  seen.  It  is  made  from  the  milk  of  the  cocoa- 
nut  boiled  down,  and  called  by  them  "  teka  moi  moi." 
It  resembles  maple  molasses,  both  in  color  and  flavor, 
more  than  any  thing  else,  and  was  quite  a  treat  to  our 
ship's  company,  who  purchased  large  quantities — five 
cocoanut  shells  filled  with  it  for  one  "plug"  of  tobacco. 

Those  who  have  never  tasted  the  young  cocoanut  may 
be  excusable  in  eating,  and  drinking  the  milk  of  the 
miserable  things  called  cocoanuts  which  are  exposed  for 
sale  at  our  fruit-stands.  But,  to  enjoy  it  in  all  its  deli- 
cious fullness,  one  must  eat  them  when  they  are  green, 
and  when  the  shell  is  so  soft  as  to  admit  of  a  knife  being 
passed  through  the  husk  and  shell,  as  one  would  "  plug" 
a  melon.  In  this  state  the  nut  is  full  of  the  rich  milk, 
and,  on  breaking  them  open,  some  are  so  young  that  no 
meat  has  yet  formed  ;  in  others  it  is  like  jelly ;  and,  as 
it  advances  in  age,  the  milk  loses  its  rich  flavor,  and  the 
meat  becomes  hard  and  oily. 

The  natives  of  this  island  are  shrewd  customers,  and 
drive  a  bargain  with  all  the  tightness  of  a  Jew,  banter- 
ing until  they  find  they  can  obtain  no  more,  and  then 
sell.  In  one  respect,  however,  comparatively  speaking, 
they  are  easily  satisfied.  A  "head"  of  tobacco  goes  a 
great  way  with  them ;  and  he  is  considered  a  rich  man 
among  them  who  becomes  possessed  of  two  or  three 
"  heads."  They  appear,  also,  to  be  much  better  natured 
and  better  looking  than  any  we  have  yet  seen ;  have 
more  of  that  noble,  manly  appearance  than  those  of  Syd- 
enham's Island.  They  are  much  larger,  also,  and  many 
of  them  wear  the  "  tappa"  about  the  loins.  The  females 
are  very  fair-looking,  with  regular  features,  small  and 
delicate  in  size  and  structure,  and  appear  very  graceful 
and  sprightly.  They  are  very  cleanly,  and  when  they 
come  off  to  ships  have  their  heads  decorated  with  wreaths 

E2 


106  LIFE   AND   ADVENTURE   IN 

of  wild  flowers,  and  generally  a  bunch,  in  each  ear  as  a 
substitute  for  ear-rings.  They  are  merry  creatures,  al- 
ways laughing,  and  showing  teeth,  of  pearly  whiteness, 
that  any  woman  might  be  proud  of,  which  are  not  man- 
ufactured for  the  occasion  by  a  dentist.  Were  they 
white,  they  would  create  no  small  sensation  among  the 
belles  and  beaux  of  America ;  and  we  have  seen  some 
who  have  j  ust  color  enough,  in  the  cheek  to  make  them 
truly  beautiful.  In  fact,  it  is  rather  a  dangerous  affair 
to  be  placed  amid  such  fascinating  creatures  after  a  long 
cruise,  and  having  seen  none  but  our  own  ship's  com- 
pany. From  the  affectionate  glances  bestowed  by  some 
of  our  sailors  upon  the  dark-eyed  beauties,  we  fear  they 
will  leave  their  hearts  behind  as  well  as  their  tobacco. 

The  sea  between  the  ship  and  the  shore  was  complete- 
ly covered  by  myriads  of  canoes,  some  going  ashore,  and 
others- paddling  for  the  ship.  We  were  thus  trading 
about  four  hours,  till,  having  procured  all  we  desired  "in 
their  line,"  we  bid  them  adieu,  and  turned  our  thoughts 
to  whaling. 

Thursday,  August  8th,  we  again  sighted  Sydenham's 
Island,  the  natives  coming  off  as  usual  to  trade.  One 
can  not  but  notice  the  difference  in  the  appearance  of 
the  natives  of  this  and  Woodle's  Island ;  yet  they  are 
only  sixty  miles  apart.  Those  of  the  latter  have  a  no- 
ble, manly  look,  are  smooth-skinned  and  good-natured, 
while  those  of  the  former  are  a  sullen,  inferior-looking 
set  of  beings,  many  of  them  scaly  or  rough  -  skinned. 
They  have  a  regular  hang-dog,  villainous  expression, 
that  plainly  says  "plunder  and  murder."  The  females 
are  even  worse  than  the  men,  being  very  masculine  in 
appearance,  manners,  and  speech,  with  high  cheek-bones, 
and  mouths  that  would  drive  a  hungry  man  crazy. 
They  are  very  indolent,  and  seldom  bring  off  any  trade, 
a  few  fish  or  shells  generally  comprising  the  whole  as- 
sortment. 


THE   SOUTH   PACIFIC.  107 

The  next  island  we  saw  was  Simpson's,  but  passed  it 
without  stopping.  On  Friday,  August  16th,  we  spoke 
the  ship  "  Narragansett,"  Captain  Eogers,  soon  bound 
home.  We  enjoyed  a  very  pleasant  "  gam"  with  them, 
they  all  feeling  very  happy,  thinking  they  would  so  soon 
be  homeward  bound.  We  could  but  wish  them  joy, 
with  a  safe  and  quick  passage  home. 

On  the  21st,  Tuesday,  we  lowered  for  whales.  One  of 
the  boats  succeeded  in  fastening  to  a  "  cow,"  and,  after 
some  running,  sounding,  etc.,  she  began  to  think  it 
"  boys'  play,"  and  about  time  to  end  the  sport,  and  com- 
ing up  under  the  boat,  gave  it  a  ra^  that  knocked  it  into 
"  kindling  wood,"  and  hoisted  the  boys  a  pretty  good 
distance  in  the  air.  Appearing  perfectly  satisfied  with 
this  part  of  the  performance,  she  departed  for  "  parts  un- 
known" with  two  irons  and  about  eighteen  hundred  feet 
of  line  attached  to  her.  The  crew  were  picked  up  after 
a  bath  of  about  an  hour.  The  next  day  saw  whales,  and 
concluded  to  try  our  luck  again.  The  waist-boat  finally 
succeeded  in  fastening  to  a  large  fat  cow,  and  all  hands 
were  chuckling  over  the  idea  of  having  outwitted  this 
one,  when  lo,  and  behold !  her  majesty  turns  and  bites  the 
line  in  two  as  coolly  as  you  please,  and  makes  off.  The 
boys  returned  on  board,  acknowledging  that  "there's 
many  a  slip  'twixt  the  cup  and  the  lip"  in  whaling  as 
well  as  every  thing  else. 

About  this  time  Mackey  and  Tom  W.  had  quite  an 
extensive  argument  on  mesmerism.  Mackey  was  a  great 
skeptic,  but  finally  agreed  to  become  a  sound  believer 
and  disciple  if  Tom  would  mesmerize  him.  To  all  this 
Tom  readily  consented,  and  preparations  were  accord- 
ingly made  with  the  gravity  and  demeanor  of  a  regular 
professor  of  the  humbug.  Strict  silence  was  imposed 
upon  all  hands ;  not  a  word  was  to  be  uttered,  not  even 
in  a  whisper,  or  the  spell  would  be  broken.  Two  tin 
pans  were  introduced  as  "  mediums,"  and  Mackey  was 


108  LIFE   AND   ADVENTURE   IN 

instructed  to  hold  one  with  the  bottom  toward  the  mes- 
merizer,  and  look  him  steadily  in  the  eye,  while  he  took 
the  other  in  the  same  manner.  Tom  now  informed 
Mackey  that  he  must  do  exactly  as  he  did — -go  through 
with  the  same  motions,  etc. ;  to  all  of  which  he  readily 
consented,  and  the  manipulations  commenced.  Unfor- 
tunately, it  happened  that  the  bottom  of  Mackey's  pan 
had  been  smoked  considerably,  if  not  more,  and  as  Tom 
would  draw  his  fingers  around  on  the  bottom  of  his  own 
pan  (which  was  clean),  and  then  over  his  face,  Mackey 
would  "  follow  suit,"  and  by  this  operation  his  face  soon 
began  to  assume  the  appearance  of  a  striped  zebra.  The 
hands  were  then  changed,  and  the  other  side  mesmerized 
in  the  same  manner.  After  Mackey  was  nicely  blacked, 
so  that  it  was  almost  impossible  to  tell  whether  he  most 
resembled  an  Indian  painted  for  the  war-dance  or  the 
aforesaid  striped  zebra,  Tom  said  he  guessed  he  would 
have  to  give  it  up ;  there  was  too  much  noise  on  deck, 
and  his  "  mediums"  did  not  work  well ;  but  asked  him 
if  he  did  not  feel  sleepy.  Mackey  stoutly  denied  being 
sleepy,  and  said  he  knew  it  was  all  a  humbug — couldn't 
fool  him ;  saying  which  he  started  aft  for  a  drink  of  wa- 
ter. The  watch  on  deck  were  employed  mending  sails, 
and,  as  Mackey  rolled  along,  they  all  broke  into  one  si- 
multaneous roar  on  beholding  his  comical  physiognomy. 
The  mate  asked  him  if  he  "  was  sick." 

"  No,  sir,"  replied  Mackey,  boldly. 

"  Well,  then,  what  is  the  matter  with  you  ?  You  look 
very  pale  P^ 

Mackey  knew  hardly  what  to  say  to  this,  but  finally 
replied,  "  One  of  the  watch  has  been  trying  to  mesmer- 
ize me,  and  it  might  have  affected  me  some." 

The  mate  told  him  he  had  better  go  below  and  turn 
in  instantly,  as  he  was  sure  something  ailed  him.  This 
frightened  Mackey,  and  he  hastened  down,  got  out  his 
looking-glass,  and,  at  the  first  sights  dropped  it.     How- 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  109 

ever,  he  mustered  courage,  and  looked  again;  then  at 
the  watch,  who  had  all  assembled  about  him  in  perfect 
silence ;  then  at  the  pan ;  and,  after  a  few  moments,  the 
light  broke  in  upon  him,  and  he  exclaimed,  "  Sold,  by 
thunder!"  and  rushed  on  deck  to  try  the  virtues  of  salt 
water  and  oil  soap,  greeted  with  a  perfect  storm  of  laugh- 
ter from  the  watch.  It  is  useless  to  add  that  Mackey 
never  after,  so  long  as  he  remained  with  us,  had  any 
thing  to  say  upon  the  science  of  Mesmerism. 


110  LIFE   AND  ADVENTURE   IN 


CHAPTER  XIY. 

Pitt's  Island. — Knox  and  Charlotte's  Islands. — Base  Conduct. — Thiev- 
ing.— Jack  and  Manuel. — Almost  a  "dead  Nigger." — Bark  "Belle." 
— Ship  "Boy." — Wreck  of  the  "Flying  Fox." — Plundered  by  the 
Natives. — Hall's  Island. — Desertion. — My  Man  Friday. — A  wet  Berth 
again. — Ship  "Hector." — Anxiety  for  Letters. — A  Canoe  in  distress. 
— A  heart-rending  Sight. — Gratitude  of  the  Natives. — Pleasant  Isl- 
and.— Its  Natives. — Murder  of  white  Men. — Brig  "Inga." — Thieves 
again. — Search-warrant  issued. — Property  found,  Culprit  tried  and 
punished. — A  heavy  Squall. — Strong's  Island. 

We  were  now  getting  down  to  the  more  westward  of 
the  group,  and  on  Sunday,  the  25th,  saw  Pitt's  Island. 
This  is  one  of  the  finest-looking  islands  of  the  whole 
group ;  the  land  being  higher,  with  more  verdure.  The 
next  day  we  saw  Knox's  Island.  The  natives  of  this 
and  Charlotte's  Island  are  now  at  war,  instigated,  we  are 
sorry  to  learn,  by  the  base  conduct  of  an  American  whal- 
ing captain,  who  has  taken  sides  with  one  party,  and 
who  takes  great  pleasure  in  slaughtering  those  of  the 
other  side. 

Whenever  the  boats  are  off  after  whales,  a  certain 
number  of  the  ship's  company  remain  on  board  to  work 
the  ship,  who  are  called  "  ship-keepers."  One  of  these 
ship-keepers  was  "Nigger  Jack,"  whom,  the  reader  will 
recollect,  we  shipped  at  Payta.  It  appears  he  was  in 
the  habit,  at  these  times,  of  going  down  into  the  forecas- 
tle, and  pilfering  whatever  he  saw  that  would  strike  his 
fancy.  He  also  was  troubled  very  much  with  a  sweet 
tooth,  and  would  help  himself  to  the  other  men's  allow- 
ance of  molasses,  not  touching  his  own.  This  kind  of 
work  went  on  for  some  time,  and,  as  the  men  could 
prove  nothing,  they  kept  quiet,  and  waited,  Micawber- 


THE  SOUTH   PACIFIC,  111 

like,  for  something  to  "  turn  up."  The  opportunity  soon 
came.  The  boats  were  all  off  after  whales,  and  our  Span- 
ish darkey  was,  as  usual,  spending  his  time  below,  when 
one  of  the  other  ship-keepers,  going  into  the  forecastle, 
caught  him  in  the  very  act  of  helping  himself  to  molas- 
ses from  the  allowance  of  Portugee  Manuel.  He  said 
nothing  to  him,  however,  but  waited  until  the  men  re- 
turned for  the  opportunity  of  "  opening  the  ball."  It  so 
happened  that,  on  this  occasion,  the  men  were  down  all 
day,  from  7  A.M.  to  8  P.M.,  with  little  or  no  food,  and 
came  on  board,  without  having  fastened,  nearly  exhaust- 
ed with  pulling,  hungry  as  bears,  and  in  none  of  the  best 
of  humors.  Supper  was  sent  down,  and  Manuel  went 
to  his  keg  to  get  some  molasses  for  his  "  duff,"  but,  to 
his  surprise,  found  it  empty !  His  Gee  blood  was  up  in 
an  instant,  and  he  sang  out,  "  What  man  been  takey  my 
molass?"  Some  one  replied,  "Nigger  Jack;"  and,  be- 
fore the  darkey  could  contradict  it,  the  heavy  molasses 
keg  struck  him,  bim !  full  in  the  face.  The  blood  flew 
on  all  sides,  and  he  ran  for  the  deck,  and,  fully  believ- 
ing that  he  was  about  to  "  kick  the  bucket,"  commenced 
chanting  the  Paternoster,  occasionally  interspersing  it 
with  exclamations  of  "  Muerto  !  muerto  !"  signifying 
"  Killed !  killed !"  in  a  most  pitiful  tone.  But  he  was 
suddenly  interrupted  by  an  order  from  aft  to  present 
himself.  He  crawled  off,  and,  after  a  long  time,  succeed- 
ed in  making  the  captain  understand  what  the  difficulty 
was.  Manuel  was  now  sent  for,  who  sputtered  out  his 
side  of  the  story,  in  half  English  and  half  Portugee,  to 
the  no  small  amusement  of  the  captain  and  officers,  and 
appeals  to  the  person  who  saw  the  theft  committed.  The 
old  man  reprimanded  Manuel  for  throwing  molasses 
kegs,  and  told  the  Spaniard  that  if  the  men  caught  him 
stealing  again,  they  would,  in  all  probability,  kill  him 
outright,  and  sent  him  off  about  his  business.  There  is 
nothing  so  much  despised  on  board  ship  as  these  petty 


112  LIFE   AND  ADVENTURE   IN 

thefts,  and  he  who  commits  them  generally  leads  a  hard 
life. 

We  here  saw  the  bark  "  Belle,"  of  Fairhaven,  Captain 
Handy.  This  vessel  was  engaged  in  trading  at  the  dif- 
ferent islands  for  cocoanut  oil,  which  was  sold  in  Syd- 
ney, New  South  Wales. 

On  Thursday,  September  26th,  we  picked  up  part  of 
a  ship's  topmast,  and,  on  sighting  Sydenham's  Island, 
discovered  the  hull  of  a  vessel  fast  ashore  on  the  reef, 
with  her  lower  masts  standing.  Our  captain  intended 
to  take  a  boat  and  ascertain  something  in  regard  to  this 
ill-fated  vessel,  but  the  wind  died  away  before  we  ap- 
proached within  a  proper  distance,  and  the  current  soon 
drifted  us  far  away. 

The  next  day  we  spoke  the  "  Boy,"  of  Warren,  Cap- 
tain Luce.  From  him  we  ascertained  the  vessel  ashore 
at  Sydenham's  to  be  the  bark  "  Flying  Fox,"  of  Hobar- 
ton.  Van  Diemen's  Land,  Captain  Brown,  who,  with  his 
lady,  and  several  of  the  of&cers  and  crew,  were  on  board 
the  "  Boy."  It  appears,  by  the  captain's  statement,  that 
on  the  morning  of  the  25th  they  were  sailing  along  with 
a  fine  breeze,  all  sail  set,  when  they  were  suddenly  start- 
led by  the  ship  striking  a  reef  which  projected  two  or 
three  miles  from  the  island,  and  was  not  laid  down  on 
the  charts.  The  topmasts  were  all  carried  away  by  the 
•shock;  the  ship  was  fast  on  the  reef;  and,  had  there 
been  a  heavy  swell,  she  would  have  gone  to  pieces  im- 
mediately. As  all  hopes  of  saving  the  ship  were  at  an 
end,  on  seeing  their  situation  they  took  to  their  boats  as 
soon  as  possible.  Already  were  the  decks  crowded  with 
natives,  who  had  begun  the  work  of  plunder,  helping 
themselves  to  whatever  they  wished.  They  obtained 
possession  of  the  spades,  and  were  ready  and  willing  to 
fight,  if  necessary.  The  captain  had  to  work  very  cau- 
tiously to  get  his  wife  into  the  boat  without  being  seen 
by  the  natives;  and,  closely  veiled,  she  was  placed  in 


THE  SOUTH   PACIFIC.  113 

the  boat,  choosing  the  mercy  of  the  winds  and  waves 
rather  than  that  of  a  barbarous  set  of  cannibals,  in  whose 
hands  she  would  have  suffered  worse  than  death. 

The  next  day,  the  boat  containing  the  captain  and 
lady,  with  some  of  the  crew,  were  picked  up  by  the 
"Boy."  The  remainder  of  the  crew,  it  was  supposed, 
had  gone  to  Woodle's  or  Simpson's  Island.  The  cap- 
tain of  the  "  Boy,"  on  learning  the  particulars  of  the  sad 
accident,  proceeded  immediately  to  the  wreck ;  but  the 
natives  had  not  been  idle ;  they  had  carried  off  every 
thing  of  value,  and  that  which  they  valued  not  had  been 
destroyed  by  them.  The  water  and  oil  casks  had  been 
stove  for  the  sake  of  the  iron  hoops  which  bound  them. 

On  Thursday,  October  3d,  we  traded  with  the  natives 
of  Hall's  Island.  Cocoanut  oil  is  the  principal  trade 
brought  off  here.  The  natives  on  the  islands  north  of 
the  equator  look  much  better  than  those  of  the  same 
group  situated  south  of  it. 

We  were  now  getting  short  of  water,  and  the  captain 
determined  to  land  a  raft  of  casks  at  Pitt's  Island,  leave 
them  for  the  natives  to  fill,  and  return  for  them  in  a  few 
days.  Accordingly,  on  the  16th,  we  sent  a  raft  ashore, 
three  boats  towing  it.  We  had  now  been  out  of  port 
nearly  seven  months,  and  most  of  the  crew  were  becom- 
ing discontented — thought  it  was  about  time  they  had  a 
run  ashore,  etc. ;  and  some  of  them  expressed  the  de- 
termination to  have  it,  if  the  opportunity  offered,  at  Pitt's 
Island.  The  officers  having  charge  of  the  boats  were 
ordered  not  to  land,  but  to  deliver  the  raft  to  the  natives 
and  return  immediately  to  the  ship.  The  third  mate, 
however,  who  was  one  of  the  disaffected,  instead  of  do- 
ing this,  pulled  close  in  shore,  and  told  his  men,  if  they 
wished,  they  could  go ;  he  should  not  hinder  them.  Two 
of  them  immediately  jumped  out  of  the  boat  and  went 
ashore ;  the  boats  returned  to  the  ship ;  and  the  captain 
and  third  mate  had  some  rather  plain  conversation  in  re- 


114  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE   IN 

gard  to  tlie  affair.  It  ended,  however,  in  the  old  man's 
leaving  a  reward  for  them,  and  we  made  sail. 

We  took  from  this  island  a  noble-looking,  fine-built 
native,  who  is  a  chief  of  some  importance ;  but  he  wish- 
ed to  try  his  hand  at  whaling,  as  near  as  we  could  un- 
derstand by  his  signs,  for  he  could  speak  but  little  En- 
glish. The  captain  bestowed  upon  him  the  name  of  Fri- 
day, which  suited  him  just  as  well  as  any  other.  He 
soon  became  a  general  favorite  with  all  hands,  was  very 
good-natured,  quick  to  learn,  as  spry  as  a  cat,  and  as 
strong  as  a  giant. 

We  visited  the  island  again  on  Tuesday,  the  22d,  for 
our  raft  of  water.  We  there  learned  that  the  two  de- 
serters had  sailed  in  the  bark  "  Belle,"  for  Sydney,  the 
day  previous. 

An  amusing  little  incident,  common  to  whaling,  but 
still  enough  of  interest  to  make  it  worth  relating,  occur- 
red on  Saturday,  16th  of  November.  The  waist-boat 
had  fastened  to  a  cow  whale,  and  were  going  along  very 
smoothly,  when  she  suddenly  sounded,  and,  by  some 
means,  drew  the  bow  of  the  boat  down  with  her  suffi- 
cient to  "  end  it  over,"  and  spill  out  the  whole  crew  very 
unexpectedly.  It  happened  that  two  of  the  men  were 
unable  to  swim,  and,  strange  as  it  may  appear,  they  were 
the  first  to  scramble  on  to  the  bottom  of  the  boat  (which 
was  upset),  and  that  without  u-eiting  a  hair  of  their  head; 
and  so  anxious  were  they  to  keep  dry,  that  they  kept  the 
boat  rolling  over  and  over,  they  meanwhile  scrambling 
in  the  most  ludicrous  manner.  After  a  little  time,  and 
partly  by  the  threats  of  the  second  mate  and  their  own 
fears,  they  became  quiet,  and  remained  so  until  they 
were  picked  up.  The  whale  was  killed  by  one  of  the 
other  boats,  and  was  soon  cut  in  and  tried  out. 

Monday,  November  18th,  was  a  very  clear  and  calm 
day,  not  a  breath  of  air  stirring,  and  "  old  Jamaica"  com- 
ing down  with  a  vengeance.     At  daylight  the  look-out 


THE  SOUTH   PACIFIC.  115 

from  masthead  raised  a  sail  a  long  distance  off.  About 
1  P.M.,  "Boat  ho!"  was  the  cry,  and  it  proved  to  be  a. 
boat  pulling  to  us  from  the  ship  in  the  distance.  About 
3  they  came  alongside,  and  reported  themselves  to  be 
from  the  ship  "  Hector,"  of  New  Bedford,  Captain  Smith. 
They  had  pulled  about  sixteen  miles,  under  the  scorch- 
ing sun  of  the  equator,  with  not  a  breath  of  air  stirring, 
merely  to  ascertain  if  we  had  letters  for  them.  They 
were  about  three  years  out,  and  had  heard  that  we  were 
on  the  cruising-ground,  and  on  raising  us  that  morning 
hoped  it  might  prove  to  be  the  "  Emily  Morgan ;"  and 
such  was  their  anxiety  for  letters  from  their  friends  at 
home  that  they  gladly  pulled  this  long  distance.  We 
were  glad  that  their  labor  met  with  its  reward,  for  they 
received  a  large  package,  and  soon  forgot  their  fatigue 
amid  the  excitement  incident  t6  receiving  news  after  so 
long  an  absence.  About  5  P.M.  a  light  breeze  sprung 
up,  and  they  left  us  in  high  spirits. 

As  we  were  cruising  along  on  "Wednesday,  Novem- 
ber 19th,  with  no  land  in  sight,  we  saw  a  large  canoe, 
which  appeared  at  the  mercy  of  winds  and  waves.  We 
immediately  bore  down  to  it,  and  found  that  it  contained 
twenty-two  natives  in  a  starving  condition.  We  low- 
ered a  boat,  towed  them  to  the  ship,  and  found  them  so 
much  reduced  as  to  be  hardly  able  to  speak,  and  could 
get  them  in  on  deck  only  by  slinging  them  in  a  "  boat- 
swain's chair"  and  hoisting  them  in.  The  canoe  was  cut 
adrift  after  taking  out  and  sinking  the  dead  body  of 
a  boy,  apparently  about  fourteen,  which  it  contained. 
Some  of  them  presented  a  wretched  and  distressing  ap- 
pearance ;  they  were  nothing  but  skin  and  bones,  and 
scarcely  that.  In  several  cases  the  skin  on  the  joints 
was  broken,  and  the  bones  had  worked  through.  We 
went  to  work  and  cleared  out  the  "blubber-room,"  and 
by  spreading  mats  around  made  it  very  comfortable  for 
them.     Their  constant  cry  was  "  Ki  ki"  (eat).    We  pre- 


lit>  LIFE  AND  ADVENTUKE  IN 

pared  some  farina,  and  fed  them  cautiously ;  but  they 
acted  more  like  a  pack  of  ravenous  wolves  than  like  hu- 
man beings.  By  the  aid  of  Friday,  our  Pitt's  Island  na- 
tive, we  learned  the  following  particulars :  They  left  their 
island  (Charlotte's)  for  another  on  account  of  the  war 
raging  there,  but  lost  their  reckoning,  and  the  current, 
which  sets  very  strongly  to  the  northwest,  swept  them 
off.  They  had  been  so  drifting  for  six  weeks,  and  dur- 
ing that  time  had  no  food  except  a  shark,  which  they 
captured.  Four  of  their  number  had  died,  two  men  and 
two  children.  Seven  of  them  were  females,  two  of  whom 
had  nursing  infants.  The  poor  creatures  would  fall  into 
a  short  slumber,  and  awake  crying  for  food.  It  was  tru- 
ly a  heart-rending  sight,  but  we  felt  assured  every  thing 
that  could  be  had  been  done  to  render  them  comfortable. 
They  endeavored,  too,  to  express  their  heartfelt  grati- 
tude to  us  by  signs,  and  would  cry,  "  Mortarkee  kiabu- 
ka"  (good  ship).  As  we  were  near  Pleasant  Island,  the 
captain  determined  to  land  them  there. 

Accordingly,  we  sighted  it  on  the  morning  of  Friday, 
the  21st.  About  9  A.M.  canoes  began  to  flock  off  to  us 
in  great  numbers,  and  the  natives  whom  we  had  picked 
up  were  sent  ashore  in  them.  They  had  so  far  regained 
their  strength  as  to  be  able  to  move  about  quite  briskly. 
The  chief  addressed  the  captain  in  his  own  language, 
which  was  translated  by  Friday  as  far  as  lay  in  his  pow- 
er, to  the  effect  that  they  were  very  grateful  to  the  cap- 
tain and  all  hands  for  the  kind  treatment  they  had  re- 
ceived; and  as  the  poor  grateful  beings  shook  hands 
with  us  on  passing  over  the  gangway,  tears  of  gratitude 
trickled  down  their  tawny  cheeks.  They  were  placed 
in  the  canoes,  waved  their  hands  feebly,  and  started  for 
the  shore. 

Pleasant  Island  is  a  very  beautiful  island,  and  well 
does  it  deserve  its  name,  if  we  say  nothing  of  its  inhab- 
itants.   It  is  moderately  high,  and  more  thickly  covered 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  117 

with  verdure  than  any  island  of  the  group.  The  natives 
are  the  most  finely -built  of  any  we  have  yet  seen — large, 
athletic,  and  ferocious-appearing,  presenting  quite  a  con- 
trast to  some  of  the  diminutive  natives  of  the  Windward 
Islands.  They  speak  a  difierent  language,  also,  from 
that  of  the  natives  of  the  other  islands,  though  but  a  few 
degrees  apart.  They  appear  far  superior  to  them  in 
shrewdness  and  cunning,  it  being  much  harder  to  drive 
a  trade  with  them.  The  females  are  very  small,  very 
good-looking,  and  some  of  them  quite  handsome,  several 
shades  lighter  than  the  men,  and  much  lighter  than  those 
of  the  other  islands.  We  bought  quite  a  number  of 
fowl,  and  some  hogs  of  the  regular  rojcer  breed.  Berk- 
shires  not  having  been  introduced  here. 

A  white  man  came  off  from  this  island,  and  wished 
the  captain  to  ship  him,  as  he  was  afraid  to  remain  on 
shore.  He  reported  that,  the  day  before,  five  white  men 
had  been  murdered  by  the  natives.  A  part  of  them  were 
from  the  ill-fated  "  Flying  Fox."  It  appears  that  they 
had  landed  at  this  island  perfectly  destitute,  and  some 
of  the  white  men  residing  there,  fearing  the  chiefs  would 
take  them  under  their  protection  and  allow  them  to  re- 
main, thereby  diminishing  their  chances  of  trade  with 
ships,  persuaded  the  leading  chiefs  that  they  came  there 
for  the  purpose  of  taking  the  island  and  poisoning  all 
the  Kanakas.  They  are  so  superstitious  that,  no  matter 
how  absurd  the  story,  they  believe  the  white  man  capa- 
ble of  doing  any  thing.  At  the  instigation  of  these  ras- 
cally "beach-combers"  residing  on  the  island,  the  poor 
fellows  were  butchered  in  a  manner  too  horrible  to  re- 
late. This  man  informed  us  that  his  life  had  been  re- 
peatedly threatened,  and,  had  not  he  had  the  influence 
of  one  of  the  highest  chiefs  on  the  island,  he  would  have 
shared  the  same  horrid  fate  as  the  others.  The  captain 
informed  him  he  could  go  with  us,  at  which  he  was 
greatly  rejoiced. 


118  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE   IN 

We  spoke  the  brig  "  Inga,"  of  New  Bedford,  Captain 
Barnes,  on  Sunday,  the  2-ith.  We  had  here  an  oppor- 
tunity of  sending  letters  home  via  Sydney,  New  South 
Wales,  as  she  was  bound  there  with  a  cargo  of  cocoanut 
oil.  Captain  B.  reported  that,  a  few  days  previous,  his 
steward  and  seven  of  his  crew  took  a  boat  in  the  night- 
time and  deserted.  The  steward  stole  about  three  hund- 
red dollars  from  the  captain's  state-room,  a  sextant,  quad- 
rant, and  charts ;  the  crew  took  provisions  and  water. 
He  supposed  they  had  gone  to  some  of  the  Windward 
Islands. 

Our  "  Spanish  Jack"  has  got  himself  in  trouble  again. 
For  several  weeks  complaints  had  been  made  by  nearly 
all  of  the  crew  that  their  tobacco  was  disappearing  very 
fast  and  very  mysteriously.  From  the  fact  that  Jack 
never  bought  any,  had  but  little  when  he  came  on  board, 
and  was  continually  smoking,  he  was  strongly  suspect- 
ed. One  fine  morning  the  captain  ordered  the  mate  to 
go  forward  and  search  the  Spaniard's  chest.  Accord- 
ingly, the  chest  was  hauled  out  and  opened.  It  was  well 
filled  with  clothing,  all  new,  that  he  had  bought  and  nev- 
er worn,  which  he  was  keeping,  he  said,  to  wear  ashore. 
On  looking  deeper^  several  knives  wer^found,  which  were 
claimed  by  some  of  the  crew,  and  various  small  articles, 
which  he  had  pilfered  at  different  times  from  different 
persons.  Finally,  the  mate  found  a  large  quantity  of 
tobacco,  and  a  tin  box  belonging  to  the  captain's  son, 
which  he  had  taken  from  the  binnacle  while  at  the  helm. 
The  guilty  Spaniard  was  brought  aft,  seized  by  his  wrists 
to  the  mizzen  rigging,  his  back  bared,  and  a  slight  dose 
of  "  hemp  tea"  administered,  said  to  be  a  very  excellent 
remedy  for  the  disease  which  troubled  Jack  so  much, 
viz.,  sticky  fingers.  He  called  on  all  the  saints  in  the 
calendar  to  come  to  his  assistance,  but  they  very  polite- 
ly refused,  as  it  is  believed  they  did  not  strongly  object 
to  the  medicine  being  administered.     It  had  one  good 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  119 

effect,  to  say  the  least ;  it  made  him  promise  tliat  lie  would 
never  steal  again  while  on  board  the  ship,  no  matter  how 
small  the  value  of  the  article.  And,  injustice  to  him,  we 
will  say  that  he  kept  his  promise,  not  from  want  of  a  de- 
sire to  steal,  but  from  year  of  punishment. 

The  idea  of  flogging  a  human  being  is  certainly  shock- 
ing, and  the  poor  fellow  who  receives  it  generally  has 
the  pity  and  sympathies  of  his  shipmates ;  but  in  this 
case  all  hands  felt  that  the  culprit  got  no  more  than  his 
deserts,  for  the  true  sailor  despises  a  thief.  The  sailor  is 
proverbially  charitable ;  he  will  see  a  shipmate  want  for 
nothing  so  long  as  he  can  supply  that  want,  even  to  di- 
viding his  last  crust ;  and  it  is  not  given  grudgingly, 
but  with  his  whole  heart. 

We  were  now  making  the  passage  to  Strong's  Island, 
and,  on  the  night  of  Friday,  December  6th,  were  struck 
with  a  severe  squall,  laying  the  ship  almost  on  her  beam 
ends.  All  hands  were  called  to  take  in  sail,  but,  before 
the  men  could  get  on  deck,  away  went  mainsail,  fore- 
topsail,  and  jib.  Whew !  how  the  wind  whistled  and 
howled !  It  was  impossible  for  the  captain  to  make  him- 
self understood  amid  the  deafening  roar  of  the  winds ; 
and  the  waves,  madly  pitching  and  tossing  the  ship  to 
and  fro,  seemed  to  wish  to  ingulf  her  in  their  bosom.  It 
was  grand,  yet  terrible.  By  dint  of  hard  labor  we  suc- 
ceeded finally  in  reducing  the  sail,  so  that  she  rode  easy 
through  the  night,  the  gale  continuing  with  almost  una- 
bated fury.  The  next  day  a  tremendous  whirlwind  pass- 
ed astern  of  us  about  a  mile,  and  it  was  through  the  mer- 
cy of  God  alone  that  we  escaped  it.  The  gale  contin- 
ued, with  more  or  less  rain,  until  Wednesday,  December 
11th,  when  Strong's  Island  hove  in  sight,  distant  about 
eighty  miles. 


120  LITE  ASD  ADVENTURE  IN 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Strong's  Island. — King. — Canker. — Dress. — Chiefs. — Description  of  the 
Island. — Large  Island. — Small  Island. — Productions. — ^Wild  Game. 
— Canals. — Stone  Walls. — Who  built  them? — Ruins. — Suppositions. 
— A  Rebellion. — Customs. — Queen. — Princes  and  Princesses. — Se- 
kane. — Caesar. — Natives. — Females. — "  Strong's  Island  Trowsers." — 
Employments.  —  Houses. — Marriages. — Sports. — Canoes. — Carva. — 
Banyan-tree.  — Religion.  — "Blueskin."  —  Traditions.  —Priests.  — 
Rites  and  Ceremonies. — Funeral  Ceremonies. — Rotumah  Tom. — Food 
of  the  Natives. — Blueskin  and  his  Procession. — Friday's  Opinion. — 
The  Feast. — "Very  good,"  but  think  we  won't  indulge. — Choose  our 
"Hotel." — An  unpleasant  Surprise.  —  "Planter." — Mutiny  and  its 
Consequences. — Desertion. — One  kind  of  Navigation, — A  Stroll  to 
Large  Island. — Friday  and  the  Taboo. — Incidents  in  Port. — Weighed 
Anchor.  —  "Slary  Frazier." — Death  and  Burial  of  Mr.  S. — A  few 
random  Thoughts. 

For  nine  long  and  weary  months  had  the  "Emily" 
been  from  port.  During  this  time  but  few  of  the  ship's 
company  had  put  foot  upon  land,  and  glad  indeed  were 
we  when  Strong's  Island  hove  in  sight.  We  were  ex- 
periencing heavy  weather,  but  on  Thursday,  December 
12th,  the  wind  gradually  grew  less  boisterous,  and  as  we 
neared  the  land,  steering  for  the  passage,  died  away,  leav- 
ing us  at  its  mouth  in  a  dead  calm ;  but  we  down  boats, 
and  every  man  "  pulled  with  a  will,"  and  soon  towed 
the  old  ship  in,  and  at  7  P.M.  we  once  more  dropped 
anchor,  weary  with  labor,  but  refreshed  at  the  sight  of 
the  land,  and  the  prospect  of  "stretching  our  legs"  on 
shore  once  more. 

His  majesty  King  Tocasaw,  alias  King  George,  accom- 
panied by  his  eldest  son,  the  Canker,  heir-apparent  to 
the  throne,  and  some  of  the  most  distinguished  chiefs, 
came  off  to  visit  us  and  welcome  us  to  their  island. 


THE   SOUTH   PACIFIC.  123 

King  George  is  a  fine,  intelligent-looking  native  of  about 
fifty.  His  court  dress,  which  is  only  worn  on  great  oc- 
casions like  the  present,  consists  of — a  red  woolen  shirt ! 
Canker  has  the  appearance  of  a  shrewd,  unscrupulous 
fellow,  with  a  most  rascally  expression  of  countenance. 
He  is  second  in  command  to  the  king.  Caesar,  the 
king's  brother,  is  also  an  intelligent-looking  chief,  and 
appears  to  be  full  and  running  over  with  fun.  We  were 
much  surprised  to  find  them  speaking  such  good  En- 
glish. 

The  next  morning,  on  looking  about  us,  we  found 
ourselves  in  a  most  beautiful  harbor,  completely  shut  in 
from  the  sea,  lying  about  fifty  yards  from  the  shore. 
The  beach  is  entirely  covered  with  cocoanut-trees,  and 
the  mountains,  rising  with  a  gradual  slope,  expose  to 
view  the  brilliant  foliage  of  the  bread-fruit  and  man- 
grove trees. 

This  island  is  entirely  surrounded  by  a  reef,  varying 
from  a  few  rods  to  half  a  mile  from  the  shore.  Through 
the  reef  Nature  has  left  an  opening  of  about  fifty  fathoms, 
or  one  hundred  yards,  which  admits  of  the  passage  of 
ships  of  the  largest  size.  The  main  island  is  some  thirty 
miles  in  circumference,  and  on  the  north  side  the  shore 
forms  a  deep  lagoon.  Immediately  in  front  of  this  la- 
goon is  the  "  small  island,"  which  extends  from  one  ex- 
treme point  of  the  bay  to  the  other,  being  separated  on 
the  westerly  side  from  the  large  island  by  a  few  hund- 
red feet  of  shallow  water,  of  not  sufficient  depth  to  ad- 
mit the  passage  of  a  craft  of  any  size,  and  this  is  bor- 
dered by  the  reef.  On  the  easterly  side  of  the  small  isl- 
and is  the  passage. 

The  highest  peak  of  the  large  island  is  about  two 
thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  king  and 
most  of  the  high  chiefs  reside  on  the  small  island,  with 
many  of  their  tribes,  forming  quite  a  settlement.  We 
called  at  the  palace  to  ]3ay  our  respects  to  his  majesty. 


124  LIFE   AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

He  appeared  very  pleasant  and  kind  to  ns,  and,  after 
presenting  us  to  the  queen  and  two  princesses  present, 
set  before  us  such  fruit  as  the  island  produces.  The 
—  bananas  that  grow  here  are  certainly  the  most  dehcious 
we  ever  tasted,  being  very  small,  and  are  called  "  sugar 
bananas."  The  productions  of  this  island  are  the  cocoa- 
nut,  bread-fruit,  banana,  mummy  apples,  dittoes,  plan- 
tains, layees  (a  coarse  species  of  banana),  oranges,  yams, 
and  tarra.  The  bread-fruit  serves  as  their  principal 
food.  It  is  rendered  very  palatable  by  being  split  open 
and  baked,  and  tasted  very  good  to  us,  after  having  lived 
on  hard  bread,  "  duff,"  and  "  salt  horse"  for  nine  months. 
From  the  tree  they  manufacture  all  their  culinary  uten- 
sils and  canoes.  The  island  abounds  in  game,  wild  pig- 
eons and  wild  hogs  forming  the  principal  part. 

After  partaking  heartily  of  the  fruit  the  king  had  set 
before  us,  we  left,  promising  to  call  and  see  him  often 
during  our  stay,  as  he  gave  us  a  cordial  invitation  to  do 
,-  so.  We  then  proceeded  to  call  upon  some  of  the  chiefe. 
On  rambling  over  the  small  island  we  found  numerous 
canals  cut  through  in  all  directions,  which  at  low  tide 
would  be  nothing  but  small  streams,  but  at  high  tide 
of  suflQ.cient  depth  to  float  the  largest  canoes.  These 
canals,  as  well  as  some  of  the  roads,  are  walled  up  from 
fifteen  to  thirty  feet  high.  They  are  well  built,  and 
range  from  six  to  nine  feet  in  thickness.  We  noticed 
many  large  stones,  which  would  weigh  several  tons,  placed 
in  the  wall  some  distance  from  the  ground.  There  is 
something  very  mysterious  about  these  walls  and  canals. 
As  the  natives  know  nothing  about  them,  they  say  the 
Evil  Spirit  built  them ;  and  one  of  the  most  intelligent 
chiefe  on  the  island  informed  us  that  the  oldest  records 
or  traditions  they  have  give  no  account  of  them  what- 
ever. 

We  also  came  in  contact  with  what  appeared  to  be 
the  ruins  of  a  large  building.     It  was  surrounded  by  a 


THE  SOUTH   PACIFIC.  126 

stone  wall,  six  or  eight  feet  high,  on  all  four  sides,  with 
but  one  entrance,  which  was  by  stone  steps.  We  then 
came  to  a  second  wall,  somewhat  smaller,  but  similar  to 
the  first ;  and,  on  ascending  a  few  more  steps,  came  to  a 
level  place  paved  with  large  flat  stones.  In  the  centre 
were  two  square  deep  pits,  from  eighteen  to  twenty  feet 
deep,  walled  up  with  stone.  The  natives  know  nothing 
concerning  this  pile  of  ruins,  and  only  answer  your  ques- 
tions with  the  English  word  "Devil."  We  think  there 
is  no  doubt  but  that  this  island  has  once  been  the  strong- 
hold of  a  band  of  pirates,  as  every  thing  about  it  would 
seem  to  indicate.  The  admirable  situation,  beautiful  and 
snug  harbor,  with  but  a  small  entrance,  in  which  a  ves- 
sel might  easily  be  completely  shut  out  from  view  at 
sea;  the  mild  and  salubrious  climate — all  these  com- 
bined would  render  it  a  desirable  rendezvous.  This  sup- 
position is  not  improbable,  as  it  is  well  known  that  the 
Pacific,  years  ago,  was  infested  by  herds  of  Chinese  and 
Malay  pirates,  and  these  very  natives  bear  a  strong  re- 
semblance to  the  Malays. 

About  twenty-five  or  thirty  years  ago  the  island  was 
governed  by  a  king,  who,  from  the  accounts  given  by 
the  chiefs,  must  have  been  a  perfect  tyrant ;  and  during 
his  reign  two  or  three  ships  were  taken  and  plundered, 
and  all  hands  massacred.  This  tyranny  had  the  efiect 
of  creating  a  rebellion,  which  was  headed  by  Tocasaw, 
the  present  king.  After  a  severe  struggle  the  rebels 
came  off  victorious,  and  Tocasaw  was  crowned  "  King 
George."  He  is  very  mild  in  his  rule,  and  appears  to 
seek  the  welfare  of  his  subjects,  who  love  him  much. 
They  are  under  complete  subjection,  however,  and  when- 
ever in  the  presence  of  the  king  or  chiefs,  whether 
in  the  roads  or  houses,  they  immediately  stoop  low,  and 
remain  in  this  posture  until  he  passes  or  bids  them  go 
about  their  business.  The  chiefs  pay  the  same  homage 
to  the  king  as  the  natives.     Even  his  own  children 


126  LIFE   AND   ADVENTURE   IN 

crouch  down  in  his  presence,  and  bend  their  heads  like 
so  many  whipped  spaniels. 

The  queen  is  a  small,  shriveled-up  old  lady,  and  looks 
as  though  a  good  strong  norwester  would  blow  her  away. 
She  is  a  very  greedy  creature,  and  just  as  vicious  withal, 
and  is  thoroughly  detested  by  those  who  are  so  situated 
that  they  can  speak  their  mind  freely,  without  fear  or 
favor. 

They  have  six  children ;  the  eldest  son.  Canker,  as  we 
have  already  remarked,  is  next  in  rank  to  the  king.  He 
is  about  twenty-six  years  of  age,  and  is  reported  to  be  a 
perfect  villain,  yet  is  very  kind  to  the  natives  under 
him.  He  is  a  shrewd  fellow  to  trade,  and  is  always  beg- 
ging from  the  sailors.  The  second  son,  Aleck,  is  a  young 
man  about  nineteen,  and  is  a  remarkably  intelligent  na- 
tive. He  is  universally  beloved  by  all,  both  chiefe  and 
natives.  He  speaks  better  English  than  any  native  on 
the  island,  and  appears  to  have  a  strong  desire  to  know 
"  all  'bout  'Merick."  Although  so  young,  he  is  the  fa- 
ther of  three  fine  children,  two  noble  boys  and  a  girl ; 
and  his  wife  is  a  very  kind,  good-natured  creature.  He 
resides  on  the  north  side  of  the  island,  and  has  a  beauti- 
ful place.  The  other  children  of  the  king  are  young, 
two  daughters  and  two  sons.  Even  these  children  com- 
mand the  same  respect  from  the  common  natives  as  the 
chiefs,  yet  they  play  with  them  in  common. 

The  first,  or  war-chief,  is  Sekane,  who  is  the  king's 
half-brother.  He  also  is  a  very  intelligent  native,  very 
active,  and  is  considered  the  king's  prime  minister  and 
counselor.  Next  comes  Caesar,  who  is  also  half-brother 
to  the  king — a  large,  noble-looking  native.  He  is  the 
grand  executioner,  and  when  any  poor  native  has  vio- 
lated a  law,  the  punishment  of  which  is  death,  he  ofii- 
ciates.  There  are  two  or  three  other  high  chiefs,  pos- 
sessed of  no  remarkable  traits. 

The  natives  are  rather  diminutive  in  stature,  but  act- 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  127 

ive  when  occasion  requires.  Thej  live  in  great  simplic- 
ity. The  females  are  remarkably  good-looking;  but, 
owing  to  their  practice  of  squatting  to  their  work,  and 
remaining  in  that  posture  most  of  the  time,  are  very 
awkward  in  walking.  Their  ears  are  bored  when  quite 
young,  and  the  hole  is  made  larger  by  inserting  in  it  a 
roll  of  leaves,  which  causes  it  to  enlarge  as  they  advance 
in  years.  They  generally  have  them  fitted  with  a  bunch 
of  flowers,  of  which  they  are  passionately  fond.  Many 
of  them  have  their  noses  pierced,  and  flowers  inserted 
therein.  They  are  generally  employed  making  tappas, 
or,  as  they  call  them  in  English,  "  Strong's  Island  trow- 
sers,"  for  the  chiefs  to  whom  they  belong.  Tappa  is 
manufactured  from  the  fibres  of  the  banana-tree,  colored 
with  dififerent  barks  to  suit  their  taste,  and  woven,  by 
means  of  a  small  but  ingenious  loom,  into  bands  of  four 
or  five  feet  in  length,  and  eight  or  ten  inches  in  width, 
with  the  different  colors  very  ingeniously  and  beauti- 
fully intermixed.  The  body  and  principal  part  of  the 
tappa  is  black,  and  comprises  all  the  dress  worn  by  the 
men  or  women,  from  the  king  down.  Sometimes,  how- 
ever, the  king  and  chiefs  indulge  in  the  luxury  of  a  cal- 
ico shirt ;  but  the  "  court  dress,"  the  red  woolen  shirt,  is 
only  worn  on  great  occasions.  The  females,  also,  will 
sometimes  s,^ort  a  gingham  shirt,  if  they  are  lucky  enough 
to  be  presented  with  one  by  the  chief  to  whom  they  be- 
long.    Their  crinoline,  however,  is  not  very  extensive. 

The  men  are  employed  cutting  wood  for  their  respect- 
ive chiefs,  building  houses,  making  canoes,  gathering 
fruit,  etc.  Their  food  consists  principally  of  fish,  bread- 
fruit, fayees,  cocoanuts,  and  other  fruit.  The  fish  are 
generally  eaten  raw,  and  smell  rather  high  before  they 
use  them. 

Their  houses  are  built  of  bamboo,  thatched  with  co- 
coanut  leaves.  The  king's  house  is  very  large,  being 
fifty  or  sixty  feet  high,  and  about  forty  feet  square. 


128 


LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 


bteonq's  i8l\kd  houses. 


Some  of  the  cliiefs  have  also  very  large,  roomy  houses. 
The  common  ones  for  the  natives  are  from  thirty  to 
forty  feet  high,  and  about  twenty  feet  square.  They 
are  kept  very  neat.  In  the  centre  of  the  house  is  a 
square  stone  fireplace.  The  king  and  chiefs  have  large 
cook-houses,  where  all  the  cooking  of  the  different  tribes 
is  done,  and  each  family  is  served  once  a  day.  Each 
chief  has  from  fifty  to  two  hundred  natives  under  him, 
including  men,  women,  and  children. 

No  one  of  the  natives  is  allowed  more  than  one  wife, 
and  when  the  marriage  ceremony  is  performed  (which 
is  done  by  the  king  for  the  chiefs,  and  by  the  chiefs  for 
the  common  natives),  the  girl  is  "  given  away"  by  the 
one  who  officiates,  and  is  then  tabooed.  The  penalty 
of  breaking  this  taboo  is  death ;  therefore  there  is  not 


THE  SOUTH   PACIFIC.  129 

much  fear  but  that  she  •will  remain  faithful  to  her  hus- 
band. 

Each  chief  is  allowed  a  certain  portion  of  land,  which 
is  cultivated  by  the  natives  under  him.  The  produce  is 
taken  to  the  king,  who  retains  a  portion  for  himself  and 
ships,  if  any  are  in  the  harbor,  and  the  remaining  por- 
tion is  distributed  to  the  chiefs  for  their  tribes.  Their 
sports  consist  of  songs,  dances,  and  feasts.  They  do  not 
appear  to  be  a  very  warlike  people,  as  they  have  no 
weapons  of  any  account,  and  but  four  or  five  war-canoes. 
These  are  about  sixty  feet  long  and  three  wide.  They 
are  supplied  with  large  outriggers  to  prevent  their  cap- 
sizing, and  will  carry  from  sixty  to  seventy  natives. 
They  are  built  very  true  and  sharp,  the  bow  and  stern 
considerably  elevated,  and  are  fancifully  decorated  with 
shells  and  other  ornaments.  The  smaller  canoes  are 
generally  bread-fruit-tree  logs  shaped  properly,  and  bum- 


i;;_w\^     '.AJO£. 


ed  and  dug  out.  They  build  them  of  all  sizes,  from 
those  that  will  carry  but  a  single  person  to  larger  ones 
that  will  carry  twenty.  It  is  indeed  surprising  to  see 
with  what  dexterity  they  manage  them. 

On  this  island  is  a  root,  which  grows  wild,  called 
"  carva."     They  pound  this  root,  extract  the  juice  by 

F2 


130  LIFE   AND   ADVENTURE   IN 

squeezing  it  in  their  hands  into  cocoaniit-shells,  and  then 
drink  it.  By  taking  a  sufficient  quantity,  it  operates 
very  similarly  to  opium,  causing  a  sleepy  intoxication. 
It  tastes  very  much  like  the  extract  of  sarsaparilla  root. 
This  is  a  great  article  with  them,  and,  on  calling  from 
house  to  house,  you  are  first  presented  with  a  shell  of 
carva.  There  are  those  on  the  island  who  have  used  it 
so  much  that  they  resemble  in  appearance  the  worst 
class  of  opium-eaters. 

There  is  a  tree  here  which  is  a  great  curiosity,  being 
a  species  of  the  banyan-tree  of  India.  Its  branches, 
bending  to  the  ground  and  taking  root,  make  beautiful 
shady  groves,  and  pleasant  retreats  from  the  sultriness 
of  the  scorching  sun. 

In  the  matter  of  religion  the  natives  have  a  singular 
belief  Their  deity,  whom  they  call  "  Blueskin,"  was 
thus  described  to  us  by  Aleck:  "All  the  same  white 
gal,  only  he  got  wing  all  the  same  pigeon,"  which  is  as 
near  a  description  of  an  angel  as  we  could  have  given 
him.  They  say,  "  If  man  be  good,  he  go  there,"  point- 
ing to  the  sky ;  "  s'pose  he  no  good,  he  stop  here," 
pointing  to  the  earth.  It  is  certainly  very  singular 
where  or  from  whence  they  received  these  ideas ;  nev- 
ertheless, they  sincerely  believe  them.  They  have  no 
regular  places  of  worship,  neither  have  they  any  pre- 
scribed form.  Some  years  since  a  famine  visited  the 
island,  and  swept  off  many  of  the  inhabitants.  Accord- 
ing to  their  traditions,  a  great  quantity  of  eels,  which 
had  never  before  been  seen  by  them,  suddenly  made 
their  appearance,  and  prevented  them  from  entirely 
perishing  with  hunger.  They  have  now  great  venera- 
tion for  these  eels,  and  they  are  tabooed,  as  they  believe 
Blueskin  sent  them;  and,  although  the  waters  abound 
with  them,  they  will  neither  harm  them  nor  suffer  them 
to  be  harmed,  if  in  their  power  to  prevent  it. 

They  also  believe  in  evil  spirits.     Once  per  year,  or 


THE   SOUTH   rACIFlC.  131 

oftener,  if  any  tiling  remarkable  transpires,  tlie  high- 
priest  is  followed  by  his  train  of  natives,  carefully  and 
plentifully  oiled  with  cocoanut  oil,  wreathed  with  flow- 
ers, and  each  one  carrying  fruit  of  some  description  to 
appease  the  angry  spirit,  while  the  priest  blows  away 
upon  a  large  conch-shell,  making  a  most  hideous  noise, 
to  which  is  added  a  continual  wail  by  his  train,  which 
sounds  truly  mournful.  They  go  along  the  beach,  and 
to  each  chief's  house,  taking  what  has  been  collected  as 
an  offering  to  Blueskin,  generally  consisting  of  pure 
white  tappas  and  the  general  productions  of  the  island. 
These  articles  are  deposited  by  the  priest  in  a  house, 
tabooed  to  all  but  himself,  on  the  mountain,  and  are  left 
there  for  Blueskin  to  take  whenever  he  chooses.  The 
priest  only  enters  this  place  once  a  year,  or  when  the 
island  appears  to  be  threatened  with  some  dire  calamity. 
At  such  times  he  goes  in  and  has  a  talk  with  Blueskin, 
On  the  death  of  any  person,  all  the  friends  and  rela- 
tives meet  at  the  house  of  the  deceased,  where  they  join 
in  singing,  wailing,  screeching,  and  weeping  for  about 
twenty -four  hours,  after  which  the  body  is  buried  with 
much  solemnity,  with  the  head  to  the  west.  We  in- 
quired the  reason  of  this,  and  were  answered,  "Yery 
good ;  'nother  day's  sun  he  come  all  right."  The  arti- 
cles most  highly  prized  by  the  deceased  while  living 
are  always  buried  with  them,  A  small  fence  is  erected 
around  the  tomb  of  a  native,  and  the  friends  every 
morning  carry  fruits  and  flowers,  and  place  them  on 
the  grave,  for  they  believe  the  spirits  of  the  dead  linger 
for  a  time  upon  the  earth  before  departing  for  the  skies. 
If  the  deceased  is  a  chief  or  a  member  of  the  royal  fam- 
ily, a  house  is  erected  over  the  grave,  and  all  the  chiefs 
on  the  island  remove  to  the  place,  build  small  houses, 
and  remain  there  for  three  months,  the  usual  term  of 
mourning,  during  which  time  they  present  offerings  very 
bountifully,  and  with  a  great  deal  of  state.     After  the 


132  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE   IN 

ceremony  of  offering  the  fruit  every  morning,  the  near- 
est related  chief  makes  a  feast,  and  all  the  chiefs  gather 
and  eat,  and  drink  carva.  The  females  are  excluded 
from  these  and  all  other  public  feasts.  The  women  be- 
longing to  the  departed  chief  have  their  heads  shaved, 
and  present  a  most  comical  appearance;  also  all  the 
relatives  cut  their  hair  short. 

One  Saturday  evening  a  native  from  the  island  of 
Eotimiah,  called  Eotumah  Tom,  came  on  board  with  a 
large  number  of  fine  pigeons  for  our  Sunday  dinner, 
which  we  found  very  fat,  and  fine  eating.  We  received 
a  present  of  a  mess  of  flying-fish  also,  on  Sunday  morn- 
ing, from  the  king,  which  were  caught  the  previous 
night.  He  is  very  kind  to  us,  sending  bread-fruit,  smok- 
ing hot,  every  meal,  for  all  hands,  and  other  food  which 
the  island  produces.  A  favorite  dish  with  them  is 
"  poey,"  and  is  prepared  as  follows :  They  bake  a  quantity 
of  tarra  (which  is  something  like  our  potato),  and  then 
pound  it  on  a  large  flat  stone,  mix  in  some  roasted  ba- 
nanas, and,  after  working  it  sufficiently,  grate  up  the  meat 
of  old  cocoanuts,  and,  inclosing  the  gratings  in  leaves, 
by  squeezing  extract  the  white  milky  substance,  and 
cover  the  poey  in  such  a  manner  as  to  resemble  frost- 
ing. Some  of  the  poey  is  made  from  the  banana  and 
bread-fruit,  and  is  truly  excellent.  After  it  is  prepared 
it  is  placed  on  large  banana  leaves,  and  is  then  ready  for 
consumption. 

We  were  fortunate  in  being  at  the  island  at  this  time, 
as  Monday,  December  16th,  was  the  day  for  the  annual 
visit  of  the  high-priest  of  Blueskin,  with  his  train,  and 
we  had  an  opportunity  of  witnessing  the  whole  affair. 
The  occasion  was  one  of  great  excitement  among  the 
natives,  they  looking  upon  the  proceedings  with  a  great 
deal  of  solemnity  and  awe.  Our  crew  were  all  ashore, 
and  appeared  to  be  highly  amused,  nearly  all  going  to 
the  opposite  side  of  the  small  island  from  the  harbor  to 


THE  SOUTH   PACIFIC.  133 

meet  "  Blueskin"  and  his  train  as  they  arrived  from  the 
large  island.  When  we  expressed  to  some  of  them  our 
intention  of  joining  the  procession,  they  exclaimed,  al- 
most horror-stricken,  "What  for?  'spose  you  do  all  the 
same,  Blueskin  he  strike;  kill  'em  very  quick!"  Nev- 
ertheless, some  ten  or  twelve  of  our  men  did  join  the 
procession,  and  "howled"  in  the  most  scientific  manner 
possible,  to  assist  in  driving  the  evil  spirits  from  the  isl- 
and, without  interruption  from  Blueskin.  Yet  we  im- 
agine the  high-priest  thought  if  there  were  any  greater 
"  evil  spirits"  than  some  of  the  "  Emily  Morgan's"  men, 
it  was  high  time  they  were  driven  off.  After  making 
the  tour  of  the  island,  and  consigning  every  thing  evil 
to  the  spirits  of  the  deep,  the  priest  proceeded  to  the 
house  of  young  Aleck,  and,  after  many  ceremonies,  gave 
him  a  new  name,  "  Zegrah,"  which  is  considered  a  great 
honor,  and  raises  his  rank  a  peg  or  two. 

Our  Pitt's  Island  native,  Friday,  could  hardly  sup- 
press his  astonishment  and  laughter  during  the  whole 
proceeding,  and,  on  our  asking  him  his  opinion  of  the 
show,  exclaimed,  "What  for  all  the  same?  All  the 
same  Kanaka  pool!"  We  proceeded  to  the  house  of 
Cassar,  where  a  feast  was  to  be  held  after  the  ceremo- 
nies at  Zegrah's,  as  we  will  now  call  him.  We  had 
received  an  invitation  the  day  before,  so  that  we  felt 
ourselves  "perfectly  at  home"  among  the  "nobility." 
On  arriving,  we  found  his  large  cook-house  filled  with 
natives,  who  were  waiting  for  the  ceremonies  to  com- 
mence. Cgesar  was  seated  on  a  mat  in  one  comer,  with 
some  of  his  pettj^-  chiefs  about  him.  He  very  kindly  of- 
fered us  seats  at  his  right  on  the  mat,  and  we  accord- 
ingly "  squatted."  He  asked  us,  "  You  been  see  Blue- 
skin ?"  and  on  our  replying  in  the  affirmative,  he  wish- 
ed to  know  how  we  liked  him.  We  gave  him  our 
opinion  in  as  few  words  as  possible,  and  expressed  our- 
selves as  being  highly  pleased  with  the  performances. 


134  LIFE   AND   ADVENTURE   IN 

He  laughed  heartily,  and  appeared  to  treat  the  whole 
thing  as  a  good  joke — an  excellent  humbug.  He  now 
clapped  his  hands  twice,  and,  speaking  in  his  native  lan- 
guage, the  petty  chiefs  passed  the  leaves  of  different  ar- 
ticles to  him,  and  at  the  same  time  others  helped  the 
natives.  We  ate  heartily  of  poey,  baked  bananas,  bread- 
fruit, sugar-cane  (which  we  had  forgotten  to  mention 
grows  here  in  great  abundance),  cocoanuts,  fish  (which 
were  baked  for  our  company,  as  they  know  white  men 
will  not  eat  them  raw),  with  large  shells  of  carva  to 
wash  it  down.  After  these  courses  had  disappeared, 
the  dessert  made  its  appearance  in  the  shape  of  an  ani- 
mal of  some  kind,  piping  hot,  which  had  been  baked 
whole.  We  supposed  it  to  be  a  wild  hog,  and  were 
about  to  partake,  when,  curiosity  getting  the  better  of 
our  appetites,  we  inquired  if  it  was  "hog."  Caesar  re- 
plied, "No,  dog;"  at  the  same  time  urging  us  to  help 
ourselves,  and  saying  "  very  good."  We  did  not  doubt 
it ;  but,  suddenly  recollecting  that  we  had  eaten  very 
heartily,  concluded  that  we  wouldn't  "  indulge,"  and  ex- 
cused ourselves  by  saying  we  were  full,  and  could  eat 
no  more.  He  seemed  loth  to  let  us  off  in  this  manner, 
but,  finding  it  no  use  to  urge  us,  gave  it  up.  It  was  evi- 
dent he  was  not  pleased  in  our  refusing  to  partake  of 
his  favorite  dish,  but  we  could  not  go  "  dog."  After  he 
finished  his  "dessert"  of  baked  dog,  he  sent  several 
choice  parcels  to  his  wife  and  daughters,  and  women  be- 
longing to  his  tribe,  and  after  washing,  which  they  al- 
ways do  at  the  close  of  a  meal,  we  retired  to  his  house, 
and  enjoyed  a  quiet  smoke,  spinning  yarns,  singing 
songs,  etc.,  which  appeared  to  greatly  amuse  Caesar,  and 
then  stretching  ourselves  upon  the  large  cool  mats,  en- 
joyed a  refreshing  sleep. 

The  next  day  we  called  upon  Zegrah,  and,  after  talk- 
ing with  him  some  little  time,  he  urged  us  to  take  up 
our  quarters  with  him  as  long  as  the  ship  remained ; 


THE  SOUTH   PACIFIC.  135 

said  lie  had  a  nice,  comfortable  house,  which  he  would 
taboo  to  the  natives,  and  give  us,  and  we  should  have 
every  thing  at  our  command.  When  we  wished  to  go 
aboard  the  ship  a  large  canoe  was  at  our  service,  with 
natives  to  paddle.  Of  course  we  thanked  him  for  his 
kindness,  and  accepted  his  generous  proposals.  We  ac- 
cordingly went  into  our  "hotel,"  and  arranged  our  beds, 
etc.,  which  consisted  merely  of  mats  spread  upon  the 
bamboo  floor,  with  pillows  which  we  had  brought  from 
the  ship,  and  soon  found  ourselves  in  comfortable,  pleas- 
ant quarters,  but  a  short  distance  from  the  beach,  with  a 
fine  sea-breeze,  and  the  never-ceasing  roar  of  the  break- 
ers sounding  in  our  ears,  as  the  huge  rollers  come  comb- 
ing, dashing,  breaking  along  over  the  rocks.  It  was,  in- 
deed, to  the  lover  of  nature  a  magnificent  scene. 

On  going  home  the  first  evening  we  thought  best  to 
take  a  stroll  across  the  island,  then  take  the  sand-beach 
to  the  house.  On  arriving  at  the  beach,  behold !  it  was 
high  tide,  and  we  must  either  climb  stone  walls  or  take 
the  water,  which  was  some  three  feet  in  depth.  We  con- 
cluded to  wade  it,  and  prepared  ourselves  accordingly 
by  assuming  Strong's  Island  costume,  and  then  "  pitched 
in."  Occasionally  a  roller  would  come  booming  along, 
dashing  over  and  almost  taking  our  feet  from  under  us. 
It  was  just  dark,  and  as  we  were  plodding  along,  consol- 
ing ourselves  with  the  thoughts  of  a  good  night's  rest 
after  we  reached  our  "hotel,"  we  suddenly  perceived  a 
large  shark  dart  between  us  toward  the  wall,  turn  him- 
self round  very  easily,  and  then  swim  away.  We  made 
all  the  noise  possible  to  frighten  him,  and  then  ensued 
some  of  the  tallest  "walking  in  the  water"  that  we  had 
ever  seen.  We  could  only  go  ahead.  There  were  high 
stone  walls  along  shore,  water  ahead,  water  behind,  and 
water  to  our  right ;  so  we  e'en  made  the  best  of  it,  and 
"  put"  as  fast  as  our  legs  would  carry  ns  through  three 
feet  depth  of  water.     We  were  fortunate  enough  to  es- 


136  LIFE   AND   ADVENTURE  IN 

cape  with  whole  limbs,  and  arrived  safelj  at  onr  stop- 
ping-place, congratulating  ourselves  upon  our  escape 
from  "John  Shark."  Friend  Zegrah  had  prepared  for 
us  a  quantity  of  baked  bananas,  roasted  fish,  etc.,  and,  set- 
ting them  before  us,  with  plenty  of  fruit,  we  had  a  very 
sociable  and  jovial  time.  His  wife  was  present,  and 
seemed  to  enter  into  the  spirit  of  the  evening  with  a 
hearty  good- will.  Zegrah  himself,  as  we  before  remark- 
ed, was  young  and  full  of  fun,  but,  living  on  a  remote 
part  of  the  island,  was  very  lonesome,  and  made  us  prom- 
ise to  spend  all  the  time  we  possibly  could  with  him, 
and  he  would  pilot  us  over  the  island. 

The  next  morning,  Wednesday,  December  18th,  "  Sail 
ho !"  was  the  cry.  On  looking,  we  saw  a  ship  off  the 
passage,  and  presently  a  boat  made  its  appearance  and 
came  ashore.  The  ship  proved  to  be  the  "  Planter,"  of 
Nantucket,  full,  bound  home.  Captain  H,  came  ashore 
in  the  boat,  and  brought  his  clothing  and  some  goods. 
He  informed  the  king  that  he  wished  to  reside  on  the 
island  for  a  short  time,  as  he  did  not  like  to  go  to  Amer- 
ica at  present.  We  learned  the  following  particulars  in 
regard  to  Captain  H.  and  the  "  Planter :"  While  the  ship 
was  cruising  off  Pitt's  Island,  a  barrel  of  bad  meat  had 
been  opened,  which  created  considerable  dissatisfaction 
among  the  crew,  and  they  finally  threw  it  overboard, 
and  said  they  would  do  no  more  work  until  they  had 
good  meat.  The  captain  told  them  they  should  have 
no  more  until  the  regular  time,  as  they  had  no  right  to 
throw  the  other  overboard.  Upon  this,  the  men  refused 
duty.  The  captain  ordered  them  to  work,  but  they  firm- 
ly refused.  He  then  ordered  them  to  come  aft,  and  this 
they  refused  to  do,  when  he  ordered  the  mate  to  go  for- 
ward and  bring  the  ringleader  aft.  Upon  this,  one  of 
the  crew  threw  out  a  threat  that,  if  he  came  forward  and 
laid  his  hands  upon  any  of  them,  they  would  break  his 
head,  or  something  to  that  effect.     The  captain,  think- 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  187 

ing  it  time  something  decisive  was  done,  ordered  some 
muskets  to  be  loaded  and  brought  on  deck.  They  were 
accordingly  brought,  and  he  then  told  the  men  distinct- 
ly and  firmly  that  unless  they  went  below  he  would  fire. 
Some  one  of  them  replied,  "Fire,  and  be  hanged  to  you !" 
After  waiting  a  sufiicient  time,  and  repeating  his  orders, 
he  fired,  and  one  of  the  mutineers  instantly  fell  dead,  the 
ball  taking  effect  in  his  brain.  The  men  instantly  rush- 
ed pell-mell  for  the  forecastle.  The  mate  now  came  for- 
ward, and  ordered  them  up  one  by  one,  and,  being  per- 
fectly tamed,  they  came  and  submitted  to  being  placed  in 
irons  and  stationed  aft.  The  body,  after  a  suitable  time, 
was  buried.  Upon  the  men  promising  to  resume  their 
duties  and  behave  themselves  if  liberated,  the  irons  were 
taken  ofi",  and  they  were  allowed  to  go  forward. 

These  events  transpired  but  a  few  weeks  before  the 
ship  visited  Strong's  Island,  and  the  captain,  thinking  it 
better  to  wait  a  year  or  two  before  returning  home,  wish- 
ed to  remain  on  this  island  during  the  interim.  The 
king,  after  some  conversation  with  our  captain,  gave  his 
consent,  and,  accordingly.  Captain  H.  had  his  property 
transferred  from  the  ship  to  the  shore,  leaving  her  in 
command  of  the  mate.  The  ship  did  not  anchor,  but  the 
things  were  brought  ashore  in  boats. 

When  the  last  boat  was  about  leaving  the  shore, 
"  Smut,"  alias  the  blacksmith,  and  our  friend  Mackey, 
stepped  in,  and,  accordingly,  stepped  out,  as  that  was  the 
last  we  heard  of  them.  We  were  sorry  to  lose  Mackey, 
as  in  doing  so  we  lost  one  great  source  of  amusement ; 
but  he  was  gone,  and,  before  it  was  known  on  board  that 
they  had  deserted,  the  "  Planter"  was  off,  with  square 
yards  and  a  stiff  breeze. 

Some  of  the  crew  one  day  started  for  the  shore  in  a 
small  canoe,  and  before  they  had  got  half  way  it  cap- 
sized, slightly  spilling  them  out.  They  had  a  fine  duck- 
ing, as  well  as  a  long  swim  for  it.     The  same  day,  we, 


138  LIFE  .AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

in  company  witli  another  shipmate,  undertook  to  navi- 
gate one  of  the  canals  in  a  small  canoe,  but,  not  exactly 
understanding  the  crooks  and  turns  of  the  "ditch,"  had 
the  misfortune  to  be  capsized  in  the  mud,  and  received 
a  good  soaking  before  we  "made  the  land." 

Hardly  a  day  had  passed  since  our  arrival  in  port  that 
we  had  not  turned  our  eyes  large-islandward,  and  long- 
ed for  a  stroll  among  its  mountains,  valleys,  and  groves, 
but  had  delayed  the  intended  visit  from  the  want  of  a 
suitable  guide.  On  Friday,  the  20th,  however,  that  want 
was  supplied  by  Zegrah  offering  his  services  for  the  oc- 
casion. We  accepted  them  with  pleasure,  and,  in  com- 
pany with  two  other  shipmates,  crossed  the  channel  in  a 
canoe.  In  low  tide  this  channel  is  fordable.  We  found 
the  houses  were  not  so  large  nor  comfortable  as  on  the 
small  island,  nor  so  neatly  kept,  and  are  more  scatter- 
ing. "We  encountered  many  ruins  and  walls  here  also, 
but  no  canals.  After  rambling  over  hills  and  rocks, 
through  woods  and  swamps,  and  finding  ourselves  com- 
pletely covered  with  mud,  we  made  our  way  back,  hav- 
ing encountered  nothing  worthy  of  note,  and  our  bright 
anticipations,  which  we  had  long  cherished,  just  about  as 
near  realized  as  thousands  of  others  that  we  have  had. 
But  we  must  learn  wisdom  by  experience,  we  thought, 
and  thus  consoled  ourselves. 

Our  man  Friday  we  find  a  capital  fellow  to  stroll  on 
shore  with,  he  having  a  perfect  fund  of  wit  and  drollery 
to  draw  upon  at  pleasure.  Wherever  we  went  we.  in- 
troduced him  as  the  brother  to  the  king  of  his  island, 
and  he  was  accordingly  treated  with  the  greatest  respect, 
which  amused  him  infinitely.  We  found  him  very  use- 
ful in  our  rambles  also ;  for,  when  we  were  thirsty,  he 
was  always  ready  to  ascend  a  cocoanut-tree,  and  pass 
down  a  sufficient  quantity  of  the  rich  nuts  to  satisfy 
the  thirst  of  all.  One  day,  while  he  was  thus  engaged, 
a  native  came,  running  and  hallooing,  to  see  who  was 


THE   SOUTH  PACIFIC.  189 

taking  cocoanuts  that  were  tabooed.  Of  course,  the 
boys  all  ran ;  and  one  of  the  crowd  was  in  such  haste 
to  get  over  a  stone  wall  with  an  armful  of  cocoanuts, 
that  he  lost  his  balance,  and  wall  and  all  fell,  plung- 
ing him  almost  out  of  sight  in  a  mud  bath.  Friday, 
however,  sat  in  the  tree,  perfectly  at  his  ease,  laughing 
heartily  at  the  mishap.  The  native  sang  out  to  him, 
"Come  down;  no  good;  king  taboo!"  Friday  coolly 
replied,  "No  saba"  (no  understand),  and  again  com- 
menced throwing  down  the  nuts,  taking  particular  pains, 
however,  to  hit  the  poor  native  as  often  as  possible,  who 
would  cry  out,  "Wa-a-a,  wa-a,  what  for  all  the  same? 
No  good."  He  finally  beat  a  retreat,  leaving  Friday 
master  of  the  field,  and  the  boys  laughing  at  the  manner 
in  which  he  had  driven  the  "  Kanaka  pool,"  as  he  term- 
ed him,  from  the  ground.  When  he  came  down  he 
found  himself  in  a  quandary.  He  had  got  more  cocoa- 
nuts  than  he  could  conveniently  carry,  and  leave  them 
he  would  not ;  and,  as  the  boys  were  all  supplied,  he  was 
in  a  fix.  At  last,  however,  his  eye  brightened,  and  ex- 
claiming, "  I  fix  'em,"  he  stripped  off  his  pants,  reducing 
himself  to  the  costume  of  the  "  king's  court,"  and  filling 
each  leg  with  cocoanuts,  marched  along.  We  took  the 
"spoil"  to  our  quarters  at  the  "hotel,"  and  deposited 
them  there.  We  would  here  state;  that  when  the  king 
or  chiefs  wish  to  reserve  any  particular  place  or  house 
from  the  intrusion  of  the  natives,  they  place  the  taboo 
upon  it ;  and,  as  the  penalty  of  breaking  this  is  death, 
they  consider  it  sacrilege  almost  to  disobey,  or  think  of 
molesting  the  place.  It  was  thus  that  our  quarters  were 
rendered  perfectly  safe  from  intrusion.  Zegrah  tabooed 
the  house,  and  no  native  dare  enter  it  without  our  per- 
mission. The  natives  are  very  kind  and  hospitable  to 
those  who  treat  them  well,  but  inclined  to  pilfer  if  a 
good  opportunity  presents  itself.  Most  of  them  are  no- 
torious beggars,  and  are  constantly  teasing  for  a  "  small 
piece  'bacca." 


140  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

On  Sunday  morning,  December  22d,  we  found  tliat  our 
third  mate  and  another  man  had  deserted  in  the  course 
of  the  night,  taking  with  them  all  their  clothing.  All 
hands  rejoiced  that  the  third  mate,  the  great  bully,  had 
left,  and  the  captain  shipped  two  men  instead  of  the 
deserters.  These  men  had  been  on  the  island  some 
months. 

But  we  had  been  some  time  in  port ;  all  our  wood, 
water,  and  fresh  provisions  were  on  board,  and  we  were 
ready  for  sea.  Accordingly,  at  five  A.M.  on  Monday, 
December  23d,  we  weighed  anchor,  and  left  this  beauti- 
ful harbor,  some  with  sorrowful  hearts,  and  others  re- 
joicing that  they  were  once  more  rolling  on  "the  deep 
blue  sea."  But  we  did  not  immediately  leave  the  isl- 
and. The  captain  had  a  little  more  business  to  transact, 
and  we  "stood  off  and  on,"  the  harbor  for  two  days, 
close  in  sight  of  the  land. 

The  next  day  after  weighing  anchor,  the  bark  "Mary 
Frazier,"  of  New  Bedford,  Captain  Haggerty,  entered  the 
harbor,  so  that  our  island  friends  were  not  left  alone. 
She  was  from  the  Arctic  Ocean,  where  she  had  taken 
thirteen  hundred  barrels  whale  oil  in  one  season.  We 
ascertained  by  her  that  our  two  deserters  had  escaped 
from  the  island  in  the  bark  "  Greorge  Champlin,"  Cap- 
tain Swain,  which  vessel  had  been  lying  in  the  lee  har- 
bor. In  the  place  of  our  third  mate  who  had  deserted, 
and  his  office  become  vacant  thereby,  the  captain  placed 
Mr.  Smith,  whom  we  took  from  the  ship  "  Marcus,"  as 
the  reader  will  recollect,  in  exchange  for  the  boat-steer- 
er,  who  left  ns  on  account  of  his  ill  health.  All  hands 
were  much  pleased  with  the  exchange,  as  Mr.  S.  was  a 
noble  man,  and  a  sailor  every  inch  of  him.  But  scarce- 
ly had  we  left  port,  and  on  the  next  day  succeeding  that 
in  which  we  learned  of  the  escape  of  his  predecessor, 
before  he  was  taken  violently  ill  with  a  burning  pain  in 
his  stomach.     For  several  days  he  continued  growing 


THE   SOUTH  PACIFIC.  141 

worse,  becoming  deranged,  and  continually  vomiting, 
until  Tuesday,  December  31st,  the  last  day  of  tbe  year, 
he  departed  this  life.     He  died  struggling  very  hard. 

This  sudden  death  cast  a  gloom  over  the  whole  ship's 
company.  But  a  few  days  since,  and  he  was  the  perfect 
embodiment  of  health.  Little  did  he  or  any  of  his  ship- 
mates imagine  that  one  brief  week  would  find  him  clasp- 
ed in  the  cold  arms  of  death.  Little  did  poor  Smith  im- 
agine that  he  would  so  soon  be  called  upon  to  obey  the 
dread  summons.  Mr.  S.  had  followed  the  sea  from  his 
youth,  and  had  arrived  at  the  age  of  about  thirty,  with- 
out ever  experiencing  sickness  of  any  kind.  He  was  a 
most  excellent  and  thorough  seaman,  understood  well 
his  business,  was  peaceable  and  friendly  to  all,  and  while 
on  board  had  conducted  himself  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
take  a  firm  hold  upon  the  affections  of  his  shipmates. 
He  had  secured  the  confidence  and  esteem  of  the  captain 
and  officers,  as  well  as  the  respect  and  good- will  of  the 
men.  He  was  prompt  in  the  discharge  of  his  duties,  al- 
ways performing  them  in  a  cheerful  manner.  But  he 
has  gone  from  our  midst.  Suddenly  he  was  taken  from 
us  to  that  bourne  from  whence  no  traveler  returns. 

Little  does  the  landsman  know  the  sweet  comforts  the 
dying  sailor  is  deprived  of  Separated  from  the  home 
of  his  heart  by  thousands  of  miles,  tossed  to  and  fro  on 
a  sick  couch,  with  no  kind  father  to  watch  over  and 
soothe  the  anguish  of  his  pain ;  no  loving  mother  com- 
forting and  praying  for  the  salvation  of  the  dear  son ; 
no  dear  brothers  or  sisters  to  sympathize  and  cheer  the 
lonely  hours  with  their  presence  —  none  of  these  to 
smooth  the  dying  sailor's  lonely  pillow,  alleviate  his 
wants,  assuage  his  grief,  and  comfort  his  mind  by  divine 
teachings ;  none  of  their  cheerful  countenances  to  light 
the  dark  valley  of  the  shadow  of  death.  Yet  every 
thing  was  done  that  was  possible  to  do  for  Mr.  S.  to  al- 
leviate his  sufferings  and  comfort  his  mind.     But  all 


142  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE   IN 

was  of  no  avail.  There  is  little  doubt  but  he  was 
poisoned  at  Strong's  Island.  But  his  bodily  sufferings 
are  o'er,  and  instead  of  departing  upon  the  soft,  downy 
bed,  with  his  dear  ones  hovering  over  him,  he  yield- 
ed his  spirit  to  the  God  who  gave  it  from  his  rolling 
couch,  and  the  last  sounds  that  reached  his  ears  were 
the  moanings  of  the  wind,  and  the  hoarse  murmur  of 
the  waves,  impatient,  as  it  were,  to  receive  their  victim. 
At  four  P.M.  we  shortened  sail,  hauled  aback  the 
head  yards,  hoisted  the  ensign  half-mast,  and  called  all 
hands  to  "bury  the  dead."  The  gangway  board  was 
removed,  the  body  sewed  up  in  a  sheet,  and  weights  at- 
tached to  the  feet,  and  then  laid  upon  a  plank.  The 
services  commenced  by  the  captain  reading  a  portion  of 
the  Holy  Scriptures,  then  making  some  excellent  and 
touching  remarks,  followed  by  a  prayer.  He  then  read 
the  burial  service,  and  when  he  said  "  we  now  commit 
this  body  to  the  deep,"  the  end  of  the  plank  was  raised, 
and  the  body  of  poor  Smith  was  consigned  to  its  watery 
grave,  there  to  rest  till  the  mom  of  the  resurrection, 
when  the  last  trump  shall  sound,  and  the  sea  shall  give 
up  its  dead.  The  body  rapidly  disappeared  beneath  the 
blue  wave,  and,  on  glancing  around,  the  tear  was  seen  in 
the  eyes  of  all  those  hardy  men — those  men  who  had 
faced  death  without  a  blanched  cheek  or  a  fainting  heart 
— as  they  took  their  last  look  at  the  body  of  their  late 
shipmate.  On  the  land,  in  the  city  or  town,  a  death  is 
hardly  noticed,  and  is  not  felt ;  but  on  board  a  ship,  with 
but  a  small  circle,  as  in  our  case,  of  about  thirty,  living 
together  as  one  family,  and  shut  out  from  the  world,  as 
it  were,  one  snatched  from  our  small  company  is  seri- 
ously missed,  and  death  serves  to  bind  the  remaining 
still  closer  together,  as  the  loss  just  experienced  shows 
us  all  the  uncertainty  of  human  life,  and  no  one  knows 
who  will  next  be  called  upon  to  pay  the  last  sad  debt 
of  nature.     May  we  all  be  prepared,  that,  should  Al- 


THE   SOUTH   PACIFIC.  143 

MIGHTY  God  see  fit  at  any  time  to  remove  us  from  this 
world  of  sin  and  sorrow,  we  can  go  with  willing  hearts 
— that  we  may  "  render  up  our  account  with  joy,  and 
not  with  grief." 


144  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

"  A  happy  New-year  to  all." — Rather  poor  Luck. — Pitt's  Island  again. 
— Description. — Natives. — King. — Religious  Belief. — Funeral  Cere- 
monies. —  "  Jentsh."  —  Houses.  —  Costume.  —  Food. — Language. — 
Weapons  of  War. — Mode  of  Warfare. — Return  to  Strong's  Island.  — 
Improvements. — Singing-school. — The  Royal  Family  to  Dinner. — 
Canker's  Guilt.  —  Poisoned  Carva. — Return  to  our  "Hotel." — Our 
Suspicions  strengthened.  —  "Stop  Thief!"  —  Gas.  —  New  Zealand 
Dance. — Grand  Feast. — Tall  Dancing. — "  Cheers"  by  the  Audience. 
— "  Go  it,  Caesar!" — Grand  Boat-race. — The  Boasters  beaten. — An- 
other great  Feast. — Ball  Alley. — Narrow  Escape  of  the  Ship. — De- 
parture for  Guam. 

How  different  the  "  New-year"  at  sea  from  that  at 
home,  were  our  thoughts  this  "  New-year's  morning" 
on  first  awakening.  But  we  wished  all  on  board  a 
"  happy  New-year,"  and  then  the  good  folks  at  home 
came  in  for  a  share  of  our  prayers,  and  we  could  not  but 
think  that,  while  they  were  enjoying  the  choicest  viands, 
our  "New-year's  dinner"  must  consist  of  hard  bread  and 
salt  junk,  with  a  "  plum  duff"  for  dessert 

We  were  again  bound  for  the  Group,  to  try  our  luck 
for  whales.  And  we  had  our  "  luck,"  for  we  only  saw 
them  twice  during  the  whole  cruise  of  three  months,  and 
they  were  then  going  "  eyes  out"  to  windward.  "We  did 
not  even  "grease  an  iron"  that  cruise. 

By  this  time  our  man  Friday  had  become  somewhat 
civilized,  and  was  able  to  speak  pretty  good  English. 
After  trading  at  the  island  one  day,  we  managed  to  gain 
some  very  interesting  accounts  from  him  in  regard  to  it 
and  its  inhabitants.  It  lies  in  latitude  3°  02'  N.,  longi- 
tude 172°  46'  E.,  the  northernmost  island  of  the  King 
Mill  Grroup,     The  natives  are  very  friendly,  and  have 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  145 

not  yet  learned  the  knavery  of  the  other  islands.  The 
chief  in  command  is  called  king,  and  is  assisted  by  a 
number  of  chiefs.  The  king  is  allowed  as  many  wives 
as  he  chooses,  but  the  chiefs  and  natives  but  one.  They 
have  no  religion,  yet  they  are  very  superstitious.  They 
believe  in  ghosts,  and  that  the  spirits  of  the  dead  visit 
them.  Their  evil  spirits  they  call  Mjentsh,"  and  they 
hold  that  when  they  do  any  thing  wrong  the  "  jentsh" 
haunt  them ;  and  if  they  are  afflicted  in  any  manner, 
either  by  sickness  or  otherwise,  it  is  punishment  imposed 
upon  them  by  the  evil  spirits,  who  are  sent  to  torment 
them.  Friday  declared  to  us  that  he  had  often  seen  and 
conversed  with  these  spirits,  and  upon  being  contradict- 
ed he  flew  off,  and  said,  "  S'pose  me  pool?  s'pose  me  no 
got  eye  ?  me  no  all  same  Strong's  Island  Kanaka  pool ; 
me  saba  plenty." 

If  a  native  dies,  they  roll  the  body  in  a  mat,  and  the 
relatives  sit  around  the  corpse  and  wail  and  mourn  until 
the  body  is  in  a  state  of  putrefaction.  They  never  leave 
their  places,  their  food  being  brought  to  them.  The 
climate  is  so  warm  that  it  does  not  require  much  time 
for  the  body  to  decay.  "When  it  reaches  this  state,  it  is 
sewed  up  strongly  in  the  mat,  and  buried,  if  a  male, 
with  his  war-club  and  spear,  to  protect  him  in  the  spirit 
world;  but  if  a  female,  nothing  is  buried  with  it,  as 
they  believe  the  females  need  no  warlike  instruments 
to  protect  them  from  danger.  Like  the  inhabitants  of 
Strong's  Island,  they  believe  that  if  the  person  who  dies 
is  good,  he  goes  "up  there;"  but  if  he  was  bad,  he  re- 
mains in  the  ground,  and  is  forever  tormented  by  the 
"jentsh." 

Their  houses  are  built  of  bamboo;  are  large  and 
roomy,  some  of  them  having  two  or  three  lofts  or  sto- 
ries, and  are  kept  very  clean  and  neat.  The  natives 
are  very  cleanly,  but  very  few  of  the  men  wear  any 
clothing.     The  females  wear  a  tappa,  about  two  feet  in 

G 


14:6  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

width,  about  the  loins.  They  subsist  principally  on 
cocoanuts,  a  species  of  bread-fruit  called  jack -fruit,  tarra, 
wild  fowl,  and  fish.  The  king  is  a  large,  corpulent  na- 
tive, apparently  about  forty -five  years  of  age,  and  is  call- 
ed "  King  George,"  which  appears  to  be  the  name  of 
every  "king"  we  have  yet  heard  of  in  this  part  of  the 
world.  The  lingo  (for  we  suppose  it  can  not  properly 
be  called  a  language)  in  the  various  islands  of  the  group 
is  nearly  the  same,  so  much  so  that  natives  from  the  va- 
rious islands  can  understand  each  other. 

Their  weapons  of  warfare  are  principally  spears, 
though  war-clubs  are  sometimes  used.  The  spears  are 
made  from  cocoanut  wood,  and  are  very  long,  and  point- 
ed at  both  ends.  They  handle  them  with  a  great  deal 
of  skill,  and  will  throw  one  from  forty  to  fifty  feet  with 
remarkable  precision.  Their  mode  of  battle  is  very  sin- 
gular. Both  parties  approach  each  other,  and,  when 
within  proper  distance,  throw  their  spears  and  then  run. 
K  one  party  get  the  advantage,  and  throw  their  spears 
first,  and  any  take  efiect  in  the  opposite  ranks,  those 
that  have  received  the  spears  make  great  haste  to  get 
out  of  the  way.  These  battles  seldom  last  long,  though 
a  great  deal  of  time  is  spent  in  manoeuvring,  and  great 
preparations  are  made,  but  the  contest  is  soon  decided. 

We  had  now  cruised  three  months  without  getting  a 
drop  of  oil,  and  the  "  old  man"  concluded  to  try  his  luck 
on  Japan.  Wanting  wood  and  water,  however,  more 
than  we  had  on  board,  for  a  long  cruise,  we  steered  for 
Strong's  Island  again,  and  on  Saturday,  March  29th,  we 
sighted  it.  The  next  day  we  entered  the  harbor,  and  at 
11  A.M.  we  came  to  an  anchor.  To  our  great  surprise, 
we  found  the  bark  "  Mary  Frazier"  still  in  port,  she  hav- 
ing been  "windbound"  for  three  months.  We  also  found 
the  bark  "  Maria  Laura,"  of  Hobarton,  Captain  Mans- 
field, in  port  On  going  ashore,  we  found  that  many 
improvements  had  been  made  by  Captain  H.     He  had 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  147 

built  three  nice  large  houses.  The  king,  too,  had  caught 
the  spirit,  and  built  himself  a  new  house ;  and,  in  fact,  a 
general  spirit  of  improvement  and  go-aheadativeness 
seemed  to  have  taken  possession  of  all. 

In  the  evening  of  the  day  on  which  we  arrived,  we 
had  the  opportunity  of  attending  a  singing-school,  which 
the  king  had  authorized  to  be  instituted  for  the  purpose 
of  teaching  the  children  the  native  songs  of  the  island. 
As  a  matter  of  course,  we  could  understand  nothing  that 
was  sung,  but  we  were  pleased  with  their  voices,  which 
were  very  sweet,  and  they  appeared  to  keep  excellent 
time  by  clapping  their  hands. 

The  next  day,  Monday,  the  king,  in  his  court  dress, 
with  all  the  royal  family  excepting  Canker,  came  off  to 
dinner  to  the  ship.  Canker  evidently  felt  his  guilt,  as 
he  appeared  to  keep  out  of  the  way  of  any  of  the  ship's 
company.  We  had  no  doubt,  when  Mr.  Smith  was  first 
taken,  that  he  had  been  poisoned,  and  circumstances 
pointed  strongly  to  Canker  as  the  guilty  person.  It  ap- 
pears that  our  chief  mate,  with  Mr.  S.  and  Canker,  had 
been  gunning,  and,  on  returning,  the  mate  and  Mr.  S. 
commenced  bantering  with  Canker  in  sport.  However, 
he  did  not  take  it  in  that  manner,  but  appeared  quite 
offended.  On  arriving  at  his  house  he  seemed  to  have 
regained  his  good-will,  and  invited  them  to  drink  some 
carva  with  him.  They  of  course  accepted,  and  it  was 
accordingly  ordered,  and  brought  in  two  large  shells. 
The  mate  noticed  this,  and  asked  Canker  why  he  did 
not  drink  with  them.  He  replied,  "Never  mind;  me 
no  drink ;  me  too  much  sick."  This  was  something  so 
unusual,  as  the  general  practice  among  them  is  for  the 
chief  to  drink  first,  that  the  mate  refused  unless  Canker 
would  drink,  suspecting  all  was  not  right.  Canker  re- 
fused even  to  taste  it,  and  exclaimed,  in  high  dudgeon, 
"  You  think  carva  been  poison  ?  Strong's  Island  no  got 
poison."     Mr.  S.  laughed  at  the  fears  of  the  mate,  and 


148  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE   IN 

drank  off  his  carva,  and  in  a  few  moments  drank  ttat 
which  had  been  prepared  for  the  mate.  Two  days  from 
that  time  poor  Smith  was  taken  ill,  as  we  have  related, 
and  soon  died,  leaving  no  doubt  in  the  minds  of  all  on 
board  that  he  had  been  poisoned  by  this  unscrupulous 
Canker. 

His  wife  having  died  since  we  left  the  island,  on  our 
return  we  found  all  the  chiefs  living  on  his  place.  They 
feast  every  day.  We  called  on  our  old  friend  Zegrah, 
who  seemed  very  much  pleased  to  see  us,  gave  us  a 
hearty  welcome,  and  accompanied  us  to  our  "  hotel," 
where  we  regaled  ourselves  on  fruit,  fresh  fish,  etc.  Upon 
mentioning  the  circumstances  of  the  death  of  Mr.  S.  to 
him,  he  remarked,  "  Canker  hhody  rascal  P^ 

The  next  day,  Tuesday,  April  1st,  we  called  upon  Can- 
ker. We  found  him  remarkably  sociable,  and  his  first 
question  was,  "Where  Mr.  Smith?"  We  told  him  he 
was  dead ;  whereat  he  raised  his  hands  with  horror,  and 
exclaimed,  "  How  long  ship  sail,  he  die  ?"  We  told  him 
"  three  days,"  when  he  replied  that  he  was  very  sorry, 
as  Mr.  S.  was  a  good  man.  Now  the  scamp  had  been 
made  acquainted  with  all  these  particulars  before.  We 
asked  him  if  he  had  not  heard  of  his  death,  and  he  re- 
plied "  no,"  but  we  knew  he  lied.  After  some  farther 
conversation,  he  asked  us,  "  What  make  Mr.  S.  die  ?" 
We  told  him  plainly  that  he  was  poisoned,  but  said  noth- 
ing of  our  suspicions  as  to  the  guilty  person.  He  imme- 
diately commenced  denying  that  he  had  poisoned  him, 
and  said,  "  Strong's  Island  no  got  poison."  As  no  one 
had  hinted  or  charged  him  with  doing  it,  we  regarded 
his  denials  as  very  suspicious.  After  remaining  in  deep 
thought,  apparently,  for  some  time,  he  again  asked, 
" How  long  he  been  make  sick,  he  die?"  meaning,  how 
long  after  he  was  taken  sick  before  he  died.  We  thought 
this  suspicious  also,  as  we  had  but  just  informed  him 
that  he  died  three  days  after  the  ship  sailed,  and  we  de- 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  149 

termined  to  try  him  on  another  tack,  and  see  what  he 
was  driving  at.  We  replied  to  him,  therefore,  "  One 
week."  His  countenance  immediately  brightened,  as 
though  a  happy  thought  had  suggested  itself,  and  he 
said,  "  S'pose  me  make  poison  carva  he  drink,  he  no  live 
one  day,  he  die  too  quick."  We  asked  him  how  he 
made  poison  carva.  He  replied  that  he  put  in  the  juice 
of  a  certain  plant.  We  reminded  him  that  he  had  said 
but  a  few  moments  before  that  "  Strong's  Island  no  got 
poison."  This  seemed  to  completely  stagger  him,  and 
he  appeared  lost  in  deep  study.  We  now  left,  well  con- 
vinced that  his  highness,  Mr.  Canker,  was  a  consummate 
villain,  and  that  he  had  poisoned  Mr.  S. 

Our  fourth  mate,  Mr.  F.,  concluded  to  try  his  luck  gun- 
ning one  pleasant  day  on  the  large  island.  After  climb- 
ing stone  walls,  rambling  over  mountains,  and  wading 
marshes,  he  thought,  as  game  was  scarce,  he  would  take 
a  short  nap.  He  was  hardly  asleep  before  he  felt  some 
one  about  his  person,  and  sprang  to  his  feet  just  in  time 
to  see  a  Kanaka  running  off  with  his  sheath-knife  in  his 
hand.  He  instantly  raised  his  gun  and  fired  at  the  black 
rascal,  but  his  shot  did  not  take  effect ;  so  the  native 
only  ran  the  faster,  and  got  clear  with  the  knife. 

The  crew  of  the  "  Mary  Frazier"  were  a  disagreeable 
set  of  men,  always  boasting  and  quarreling  among  them- 
selves and  with  their  officers.  Quite  a  number  of  the 
different  ships'  companies  were  on  shore  one  evening, 
rolling  in  the  ball-alley,  which  had  been  built  by  Cap- 
tain H.,  and  a  disturbance  occurred  between  the  mate  of 
the  "  M.  F."  and  one  of  her  crew.  The  man,  who  was  a 
large,  two-fisted  fellow,  was  blustering  about,  threatening 
to  knock  the  mate  "  into  the  middle  of  next  week ;"  but, 
as  he  was  taken  no  notice  of  by  any  one,  after  suffering 
the  superabundant  flow  of  gas  to  escape,  sneaked  off, 
leaving  the  others  to  enjoy  their  exercise. 

On  the  evening  of  Thursday,  April  3d,  we  attended  a 


150  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE   IN 

dance  at  the  king's  house,  given  by  some  New  Zealand 
natives.  Their  faces  and  bodies  are  tattooed  in  a  very 
singular  manner,  and  look  truly  frightful.  Their  ges- 
tures are  fierce,  songs  wild,  and  their  dancing  is  little 
more  than  keeping  time  by  changing  their  position. 

On  Monday,  April  7th,  we  attended  a  grand  feast  giv- 
en by  the  king.  All  the  chiefs  on  the  island  were  pres- 
ent. Every  thing  was  served  up  in  the  highest  style  of 
"  Strong's  Island  fashion,"  and  the  white  men  from  all 
three  ships  were  heartily  invited  to  partake,  which  they 
did  of  every  thing  except  "  dog."  After  the  feast  was 
over  the  "  plate"  was  cleared  away,  and  room  made  for 
a  grand  dance,  which  was  led  off  by  the  king  and  fol- 
lowed by  the  chiefs,  the  women  singing,  and  keeping 
time  by  clapping  their  hands  and  beating  an  instrument 
resembling  a  tambourine.  .The  old  king  flew  around 
quite  lively,  and  each  one  appeared  to  do  his  utmost  to 
excel.  At  the  close  of  each  dance  the  white  portion  of 
the  audience  would  cheer  the  performers  in  the  most  ap- 
proved style,  which  seemed  to  please  them  greatly.  The 
natives  appeared  much  amused,  whether  at  the  .dancing 
or  cheering  we  could  not  say,  but  probably  a  little  of 
both,  as  they  showed  a  broad  grin  all  the  time.  Old 
Caesar  tried  very  hard  to  see  how  high  he  could  kick 
his  heels,  and,  at  the  same  time,  keep  his  balance,  but  a 
misstep  brought  his  foot  down  on  a  piece  of  banana-skin, 
and  his  heels  flew  up,  and  down  he  came  with  a  crash 
that  seemed  as  if  he  had  gone  through  the  floor.  Upon 
seeing  this,  the  king  and  all  the  dancers  stopped  to  have 
a  hearty  laugh,  the  white  men  shouted  and  cheered,  the 
natives  grinned,  and  the  house  was  "  brought  down" 
completely.  But  Caesar  was  not  to  be  frightened  in  that 
way,  and  he  got  up  and  went  at  it  again  with  redoubled 
energy.  After  dancing  some  two  or  three  hours,  "all 
hands"  took  a  shell  of  carva  and  separated. 

The  crew  of  the  "  Mary  Frazier"  had  been  hragging 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  151 

and  hoasting,  since  we  had  been  in  port,  tliat  they  had  bet- 
ter boats,  and  could  pull  faster  than  either  of  the  other 
ships'  boats.  Knowing  what  braggadocios  they  were, 
our  men  took  no  notice  of  them,  nor  did  the  crew  of  the 
English  bark  for  some  time,  until  finally  they  challenged 
the  Englishmen  to  a  race,  and  the  challenge  was  accept- 
ed. The  flag-boats  were  stationed  one  mile  apart,  and 
the  boat  that  pulled  around  these  stationary  ones  three 
times  and  came  out  ahead  was  to  win  the  race,  making  a 
pull  of  six  miles.  The  crew  of  the  *'  M.  F.'s"  boat  were 
down  quite  early  in  the  morning  on  the  day  of  the  race, 
six  large  brawny  fellows,  stripped  to  the  skin,  and  "  ea- 
ger for  the  fray."  About  9  A.M.  the  Englishmen  lower- 
ed their  boat,  the  same  number  of  men  composing  her 
crew,  but  with  a  far  different  appearance,  being  perfectly 
cool,  and  making  no  boasting  display.  Our  boys,  think- 
ing they  might  as  well  be  "  counted  in,"  though  not 
thinking  of  winning,  five  of  them,  with  the  second  mate, 
jumped  into  the  waist-boat,  and  "  struck  out"  for  the 
starting-place.  The  boats  were  now  ranged  alongside, 
the  signal  was  given,  and  away  they  flew  like  arrows 
from  the  bow.  The  "  Mary's"  boat  soon  left  the  others 
behind,  our  "  plug"  being  distanced  by  both.  Each  crew 
bent  their  backs  to  it,  sending  the  boats  through  the  sil- 
very sheet  with  great  speed.  The  Englishmen's  boat 
seemed  to  skim  over  the  surface  of  the  water  with  the 
ease  and  grace  of  the  swan,  the  crew  taking  it  perfectly 
easy.  The  first  flag-boat  was  rounded,  and  the  "  Mary's" 
boat  was  some  distance  ahead.  But  now  was  "the  tug 
of  war."  The  good-natured  Johnny  Bulls  awoke  from 
their  lethargy,  and  the  cry  rang  out,  "  Pull,  my  hearties, 
pull !"  and  every  stroke  lessened  the  distance  between 
the  two  boats,  our  own  boat  gaining  on  the  "  head  boat" 
about  as  fast  as  did  the  Englishmen.  But  all  was  ex- 
citement; the  men  in  each  boat  were  straining  every 
nerve,  and,  at  the  end  of  the  third  mile,  the  Englishmen 


152  LIFE   AND   ADVENTUEE   IN 

passed  tlie  other  boat,  and,  before  the  fourth  was  reach- 
ed, ours  passed  it  also.  But  still  on  they  pulled,  de- 
termined not  to  give  up,  yet  dropping  farther  and  far- 
ther astern,  until,  at  the  end  of  the  sixth  mile,  the  En- 
glish boat  was  a  mile  ahead  of  the  "Mary  Frazier's,"  and 
our  own  about  half  a  mile  ahead.  The  Johnny  Bulls 
now  gave  three  cheers  for  their  own  boat,  and  "three 
times  three"  for  ours,  not  so  much  for  the  victory  as 
that  the  boasters  had  been  so  badly  beaten.  Our  boys 
were  not  interested  in  the  race  at  all,  only  pulling  for 
the  "  fun  of  the  thing,"  and  they  were  more  surprised 
than  any  one  else  to  find  that  they  could  beat  the  "  crack 
boat"  of  the  "  M.  F. ;"  and  her  crew  were  so  mortified 
that  they  said  no  more  about  "  fast  boats."  Thus  were 
the  boasters  beaten. 

On  Saturday,  April  19th,  the  king  gave  another  grand 
feast  and  dance,  to  which  we  were  all  invited  as  usual. 
After  some  time  spent  in  dancing  by  the  chiefs  and 
king,  the  old  black  "doctor"*  of  the  "Maria  Laura" 
struck  up  with  his  violin,  and  all  hands  joined  in  a  reg- 
ular breakdown.  This  pleased  the  king  and  natives  very 
much,  they  laughing  heartily  and  exclaiming,  "What 
for  all  the  same  'Meriky  fashion  ?" 

As  we  before  remarked.  Captain  H.  had  built  a  ball- 
alley  on  the  island,  and  the  king  and  chiefs  spent  a  great 
part  of  their  time  there,  and  had  become  very  expert 
players.  The  king  might  often  be  seen  "  rolling  a  string" 
with  one  of  the  foremast  hands  of  the  different  ships. 

The  "  Mary  Frazier"  had  now  been  in  port  nearly  four 
months,  the  "  Maria  Laura"  two  months,  and  ourselves 
one  month.  The  three  ships  were  ready  for  sea,  and 
had  been  for  weeks,  but  the  wind  blew  constantly  into 
the  passage — a  fair  wind  to  enter  port,  but  impossible 
for  a  ship  to  leave.  At  length,  however,  on  the  morn- 
ing of  Wednesday,  April  23d,  the  wind  died  away  and 

*  The  cook. 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  163 

it  fell  a  dead  calm,  and  tlie  old  man  determined  to  make 
the  effort  to  tow  the  ship  out  of  the  passage.  Accord- 
ingly, we  "  hove  np"  anchor  and  down  boats,  and  com- 
menced to  tow.  When  at  the  mouth  of  the  passage  a 
breeze  sprang  up,  taking  us  "  all  aback,"  and  swinging 
the  ship  around.  We  were  rapidly  drifting  into  the 
breakers,  when  the  pilot,  Eotumah  Tom,  immediately 
sprang  into  a  boat  alongside,  and,  pulling  for  the  weath- 
er side  of  the  passage,  with  the  end  of  a  line  in  his  hand, 
which  he  had  taken  with  him,  he  plunged  down  and 
made  it  fast  around  a  coral  rock,  came  up,  and  made 
signals  to  "  heave  away"  on  board.  This  was  the  work 
of  almost  a  moment ;  the  ship  was  within  but  a  few  feet 
of  the  breakers,  and  we  held  our  breath,  expecting  every 
instant  to  see  her  strike.  But  by  sharp,  quick  work,  and 
the  good  judgment  and  activity  of  Eotumah  Tom,  we 
soon  cleared  the  breakers,  and,  warping  up  to  our  old 
anchorage,  "  let  go"  again. 

The  other  ships  also  dropped  anchor,  and  congratu- 
lated us  on  the  narrow  escape  of  the  "  Emily."  We 
felt  thankful  to  God  for  the  escape,  narrow  as  it  was. 
To  have  been  wrecked  there  and  then  would  have  been 
truly  lamentable. 

The  next  morning  a  light  breeze  sprang  up  from  the 
southward,  and  all  three  ships  left  Strong's  Island,  bid- 
ding them  adieu.  The  breeze  increased  as  we  dropped 
the  land,  and  with  a  fair  wind  we  headed  west-northwest 
for  Guam. 

G2 


154  LIFE  AND  ADVENTUEE  IN 


CHAPTER  XVn. 

Guam. — Invasion  of  the  !^adrone  Islands  by  the  Spaniards  in  1554. — 
Getting  oiF  Recruits. — Fruit. — Climate. — Captain  Anderson. — Mas- 
sacre of  Captain  Luce  and  Boat's  Crew. — Proceed  to  Japan  Cruising- 
ground. — Ship  "Boy." — Boat's  Crew  taken  down  by  a  Whale. — Al- 
bicore  and  Skipjack. — "  Our  Luck"  again. — The  Spell  broken. — 
Bark  "  Medina." — Manuel  and  the  Hog. — A  slight  Tap. 

Sunday,  May  4th,  we  arrived  at  Guam.  This  is  a 
beautiful  island,  of  rather  high  land,  and  resembles  the 
American  coast  more  than  any  land  we  saw  during  our 
wanderings.  The  surface  presents  a  rolling  appearance, 
the  land  looks  fertile,  and  it  is  interspersed  with  dense 
foliage.  This  island  is  the  principal  one  of  the  group 
of  the  Ladrone  Islands. 

These  islands  were  invaded  in  1554  by  the  Spaniards, 
but  their  conquest  was  not  completed  till  the  year  1592, 
although  they  had,  during  the  different  years  of  their 
invasion,  resorted  to  their  usual  sanguinary  means.  It 
was  not  until  they  had  destroyed  an  immense  number 
of  the  inhabitants  that  they  could  bring  the  warlike  La- 
drones  to  a  state  of  subjection.  When  the  conquest  was 
finished,  they  compelled  the  subjugated  people  to  leave 
all  the  other  islands  which  form  the  group,  and  reside 
on  only  two  of  them,  Gruam  and  Rotta,  which  placed 
them  completely  under  the  observation  of  their  jealous 
invaders.  They  also  forced  them  to  receive  the  Roman 
Catholic  religion,  which  continues  to  be  the  only  one 
tolerated  on  the  island.  The  Spaniards  have  managed 
ever  since  to  keep  the  people  in  a  state  of  subjection, 
although  the  spirit  of  revolt  still  lies  dormant  in  their 
breast,  ready  to  burst  forth  at  the  first  favorable  oppor- 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  155 

tunity.  They  speak  the  Spanish  language  fluently ;  in 
fact,  they  can  speak  no  other,  or  they  have  no  knowledge 
of  the  one  formerly  spoken  on  the  islands. 

All  hands  were  busily  engaged  getting  off  recruits  for 
the  coming  season  on  Japan,  which  consisted  of  yams, 
sweet  potatoes,  melons,  shaddock,  and  bananas,  which 
grow  here  in  great  abundance.  The  island  also  pro- 
duces tamarinds,  oranges,  limes,  cocoanuts,  citrons,  and 
papaw  apples,  all  of  the  finest  quality.  The  inhabitants 
here  enjoy  perpetual  summer ;  the  climate  is  mild  and 
salubrious,  and,  were  they  free  from  Spanish  oppression, 
might  be  a  happy  and  contented  people. 

We  found  a  Scotchman — Captain  Anderson  he  called 
himself — who  had  resided  here  many  years,  and  accu- 
mulated quite  a  little  fortune  trading  with  ships,  etc. 
He  informed  us  that  Captain  Luce,  of  the  "Boy,"  of 
Warren,  together  with  his  boat's  crew,  had  been  massa- 
cred by  the  natives  at  M'GaskiU's  Island  but  a  short 
time  previous.  The  captain  went  ashore  for  the  pur- 
pose of  trading  with  the  natives  for  fruit,  fowl,  etc.  He 
had  visited  the  island  before,  and  always  found  the  na- 
tives friendly  and  peaceable.  As  he  did  not  return  to 
the  ship,  the  officer  in  charge  kept  close  in  to  the  land, 
and  fearing  there  had  been  foul  play,  early  in  the  morn- 
ing he  stood  in,  and,  by  the  aid  of  the  spy-glass,  dis- 
covered the  natives  dressed  in  the  clothing  belonging  to 
the  boat's  crew.  They  saw  a  white  man  coming  off  in 
a  canoe  and  making  signals  to  them.  When  within 
hailing  distance,  he  reported  that  the  captain  and  boat's 
crew  had  been  murdered ;  that  he  had  resided  on  the 
island  some  time,  and  was  not  afraid  they  would  attack 
him.  Upon  learning  this  sad  news,  the  ship  proceeded 
to  the  cruising-ground  in  charge  of  the  mate. 

Every  thing  being  in  readiness,  on  Monday,  May  5th, 
we  left  Guam  for  the  Japan  ground,  to  cruise  over  a 
trackless  waste  of  waters  for  five  or  six  months  in  pur- 


156  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE   IN 

suit  of  doUara  in  the  shape  of  sperm  whales.  Nothing 
out  of  the  usual  routine  of  ship's  duties  occurred  for 
nearly  two  months.  All  was  monotony ;  the  same 
process  day  after  day — not  even  a  sail  nor  a  whale  to 
vary  the  scene.  At  length,  however,  on  the  morning 
of  Sunday,  June  22d,  our  ears  were  startled  by  the  cry 
of  "  Sail  ho !"  from  the  mast-head.  It  was  a  dead  calm 
— not  a  breath  of  air  stirring — and  the  sail  was  just  vis- 
ible from  aloft.  About  4  P.M.  a  breeze  sprang  up,  and 
brought  the  stranger  with  it.  It  proved  to  be  the  "Boy," 
and  a  boat's  crew  came  on  board.  They  confirmed  the 
report  relative  to  the  massacre  of  Captain  Luce  and  his 
men.  They  also  reported  that  a  Nantucket  ship  cruis- 
ing on  the  ground  had  lost  a  boat  and  crew  by  being 
taken  down  by  a  whale.  It  was  supposed  the  line  be- 
came foul,  and,  before  it  could  be  cut,  boat  and  crew 
disappeared  beneath  the  surface,  as  they  were  never 
seen  or  heard  from  afterward. 

We  now  found  large  quantities  of  albicore  and  skip- 
jack around  the  ship.  These  fish  are  very  good  eating, 
tasting  much  like,  fresh  cod,  and  there  were  thousands 
of  them  to  be  seen  in  every  direction.  All  that  was 
necessary  to  take  them  was  to  tie  a  piece  of  white  rag 
on  a  hook,  and  then  sit  on  the  bulwarks  and  trail  the 
line  along  the  top  of  the  water,  the  fish  jumping  at  it  as 
fast  as  one  wished  to  haul  them  in.  We  have  seen  as 
much  as  ten  barrels  of  them  caught  in  one  day.  They 
weigh  from  five  to  fifty  pounds.  It  is  singular,  but  they 
follow  a  ship  as  long  as  she  remains  in  those  latitudes. 

At  length,  on  the  morning  of  Saturday,  June  28th, 
the  welcome  cry  was  heard  from  mast-head,  "  T-h-e-r-e 
she  b-1-o-w-s !"  All  were  aroused,  and  it  was  not  long 
before  our  boats  were  down  and  after  him,  for  it  was  a 
"  lone  whale."  The  bow-boat  soon  fastened,  and  just  as 
all  hands  were  congratulating  themselves  that  we  should 
soon  have  a  whale  alongside,  the  irons  drew,  and  the 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  157 

whale  left  for  parts  unknown.  "Just  our  luck,"  was 
the  exclamation,  and  all  returned  to  the  ship  with  long 
faces,  and  "slightly"  discouraged.  It  was  now  eight 
months  since  we  had  taken  a  drop  of  oO,  and  we  were 
twenty  months  out,  with  but  three  hundred  barrels.  The 
prospect  of  two  thousand  barrels  in  four  years  looked 
very  dark  just  then.  However,  the  old  man  endeavor- 
ed to  console  us  by  saying,  "It  is  a  long  lane  that  has 
no  turning,  boys !" 

And  we  found  this  adage  true,  for  the  next  morning 
we  lowered  down,  and  in  less  than  an  hour  had  a  hund- 
red-barrel sperm  whale  alongside,  which  caused  every 
face  to  brighten,  and  before  the  decks  were  fairly  clear- 
ed up  we  took  another,  which  made  us  eighty  barrels, 
making  one  hundred  and  eighty  barrels  in  less  than  one 
week,  more  than  half  as  much  as  we  had  been  twenty 
months  in  getting.  Thus  it  is ;  whaling  is  more  a  lot- 
tery than  any  thing  else. 

While  cutting  in  the  last  whale,  we  discovered  a  ship 
running  down  to  us,  which  soon  came  within  hailing 
distance,  and  proved  to  be  the  British  bark  "  Medina," 
from  Hong  Kong,  bound  to  San  Francisco,  with  a  load 
of  Chinese  emigrants. 

We  were  now  enjoying  beautiful  weather.  During 
the  days  hardly  a  cloud  was  to  be  seen,  and  the  atmos- 
phere as  clear  as  a  bell.  The  nights  were  lovely,  warm, 
and  pleasant,  and  many  of  the  crew  preferred  bringing 
their  mattresses  on  deck  and  sleeping  in  the  open  air  to 
sleeping  below.  One  night  Portugee  Manuel,  among 
the  rest,  was  thus  quietly  taking  a  nap,  but  it  happened 
to  be  his  watch  on  deck,  and  he  did  not  feel  disposed  to 
keep  awake  when  he  should.  One  of  the  watch,  think- 
ing to  have  a  little  sport,  tied  him  fast  to  a  large  hog 
who  was  quietly  reposing  not  far  off,  and  then,  taking  a 
rope's  end,  commenced  belaboring  the  porker,  who  start- 
ed up  and  off,  dragging  the  "Gee"  very  unceremonious- 


158  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

ly  with.  him.  This  somewhat  surprised  Manuel,  who 
was  not  accustomed  to  this  novel  mode  of  locomotion, 
and,  on  being  released,  he  swore  vengeance  (in  Portu- 
guese) against  hogs  and  Yankees. 

We  again  raised  whales  on  Monday,  July  28th,  and 
gave  chase  as  usual.  The  waist-boat  soon  fastened  to 
a  fine  long  fellow,  who  did  not  like  to  be  trifled  with, 
it  seemed,  in  such  a  manner,  and  commenced  thrashing 
about  in  a  way  that  threatened  destruction  to  the  boats 
in  the  vicinity.  After  working  himself  into  a  towering 
passion,  he  ended  the  fracas  by  knocking  the  waist-boat 
"  higher  than  a  kite,"  and  sent  the  crew  flying  in  all  di- 
rections. The  men  were  soon  picked  up,  and,  when  the 
whale  saw  the  mischief  which  he  had  done,  repenting, 
we  suppose,  he  remained  quiet,  and  submitted  to  the 
"  killing  process"  with  a  very  good  grace,  and  "  gave  up 
the  ghost"  in  the  usual  style.  The  body  was  towed  to 
the  ship,  and  the  "funeral  ceremonies"  were  performed 
in  short  order,  his  beautiful  coat  soon  converted  into 
sperm  oil  and  stowed  away  in  the  hold. 


THE  SOUTH   PACIFIC.  161 


CHAPTER  XVm. 

Food  of  the  Sperm  Whale. — Manner  of  Feeding. — Swimming. — Breath- 
ing.— Herding. 

In  the  many  books  which  have  been  written  of  whal- 
ing voyages,  we  recollect  nowhere  to  have  seen  a  natu- 
ral history  of  the  sperm  whale,  and  we  trust  it  will  not  be 
uninteresting  to  the  reader  if  we  give  it  in  the  present 
volume.  It  can  not  but  be  instructive,  at  all  events, 
and,  being  satisfied  on  that  point,  we  shall  proceed ;  and, 
first. 

The  Food  of  the  Sperm  Whale. — This  food  consists  al- 
most wholly  of  an  animal  called  by  whalemen  "  squid," 
and  by  naturalists  the  "  Sepia  octopiis"  This  squid 
forms  the  principal  part  of  the  sustenance  of  the  sperm 
whale  when  at  a  distance  from  the  shore,  or  what  is 
termed  "  off  shore  ground." 

Manner  of  Feeding. — It  appears  from  all  that  we  could 
learn  from  the  oldest  and  most  experienced  whalemen 
that  we  met,  and  from  the  observations  we  have  been 
enabled  to  make  upon  this  interesting  subject,  that  when 
the  whale  is  inclined  to  feed  he  descends  a  certain  depth 
below  the  surface  of  the  ocean,  and  there  remains  in  as 
quiet  a  state  as  possible,  opening  his  long  and  narrow 
mouth  until  the  lower  jaw  hangs  down  almost  perpen- 
dicularly. The  roof  of  his  mouth,  the  tongue,  and  espe- 
cially the  teeth,  being  of  a  bright,  glistening  color,  must 
present  a  remarkable  appearance,  which  seems  to  be  the 
incitement  by  which  his  prey  are  attracted,  and  when  a 
sufficient  number  are  within  the  mouth,  he  rapidly  closes 
his  jaw  and  swallows  the  contents.  This  is  not  the  only 
instance  of  animals  obtaining  their  prey  by  such  means, 


162  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE   IN 

■when  the  form  of  their  bodies,  from  unwieldiness  or 
some  other  cause,  prevents  them  from  securing  their  prey 
in  any  other  manner,  or  by  the  common  method  of  the 
chase.  The  crocodile  frequently  employs  stratagems  of 
the  like  nature.  Covering  himself  in  mud,  and  lying 
still  on  the  bank  of  some  stream,  he  opens  his  enormous 
jaws,  when  hundreds  of  smaller  reptiles,  attracted  by  the 
mucus  or  slime  which  covers  his  exterior,  become  the 
easy  prey  of  the  artful  machinations  of  their  scaly  de- 
ceiver. 

The  sperm  whale  is  frequently  subject  to  deformity 
of  the  lower  jaw,  two  instances  of  which  we  have  seen,  in 
which  the  deformity  was  so  great  as  to  render  it  impos- 
sible for  the  animal  to  find  the  jaw  useful  in  catching  its 
prey,  or  even,  one  might  have  supposed,  in  deglutition ; 
yet  these  whales  possessed  as  much  blubber,  and  were 
as  rich  in  oil  as  any  of  a  similar  size  we  have  seen  be- 
fore or  since.  In  both  these  instances  of  crooked  jaws, 
the  nutrition  of  the  animal  appeared  to  be  equally  per- 
fect. In  both  cases  the  jaws  were  bent  on  one  side.  It 
would  be  interesting  here  to  inquire  into  the  causes  of 
this  deformity ;  but  whether  it  is  the  effect  of  disease,  or 
the  consequence  of  accident,  would  be  difi&cult  to  ascer- 
tain. Old  whalemen  afiirm  that  it  is  caused  by  fighting. 
They  state  that  the  sperm  whale  fights  by  rushing  head 
first  one  upon  the  other,  their  mouths,  at  the  same  time, 
wide  open ;  their  object  appearing  to  be  the  seizing  of 
their  opponent  by  the  lower  jaw,  for  which  purpose  they 
frequently  turn  themselves  on  their  side.  In  this  man- 
ner they  become,  as  it  were,  locked  together,  their  jaws 
crossing  each  other,  and  in  this  method  they  strive  ve- 
hemently for  the  mastery.  We  have  never  had  the  for- 
tune to  witness  one  of  these  combats,  but  if  it  be  the  fact 
that  such  take  place,  we  need  not  wonder  at  seeing  so 
many  deformed  jaws  among  sperm  whales ;  for  we  can 
easily  suppose  the  enormous  force  exerted  on  these  oc- 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  163 

casions,  taking  into  consideration,  also,  the  comparative 
slenderness  of  the  jaw-bone  in  this  animal.  From  these 
facts  it  maj  at  least  be  surmised,  with  a  great  degree  of 
probability,  that  the  mode  of  procuring  food  as  above 
stated  is  the  true  one;  for  with  a  jaw  so  much  deform- 
ed, the  animal  would  seem  incapable  of  pursuing  his 
prey,  and  would  consequently  gain  but  a  very  precari- 
ous subsistence,  did  not  its  food  actually  throng  about 
its  mouth  and  throat,  invited  by  their  appearance,  and 
attracted  in  some  degree,  as  is  supposed,  by  the  peculiar 
and  very  strong  odor  of  the  sperm  whale. 

The  teeth  of  the  sperm  whale  are  merely  organs  of 
prehension.  They  can  be  of  no  use  for  mastication,  and 
consequently  the  fish,  etc.,  which  he  occasionally  vom- 
its present  no  marks  of  having  undergone  the  process. 

The  manner  of  the  suckling  of  the  young  ones  is  a 
matter  involved  in  some  obscurity.  It  is  impossible, 
from  the  singular  conformation  of  the  mouth,  that  the 
young  one  could  seize  the  nipple  of  the  mother  with  the 
forepart  of  it,  for  there  are  no  soft  lips  at  this  part,  but 
instead  the  jaws  are  edged  with  a  smooth  and  very  hard 
cartilaginous  substance ;  but  about  two  feet  from  the 
angle  of  the  mouth  they  begin  to  be  furnished  with 
something  like  lips,  which  form  at  the  angle  some  loose 
folds,  soft  and  elastic,  and  it  is  commonly  believed  by 
the  most  experienced  whalemen  that  it  is  by  this  part 
the  young  whale  seizes  the  nipple  and  performs  the  act 
of  sucking,  and  which  is  doubtless  the  mode  of  its  do- 
ing so. 

Swimming. — Notwithstanding  his  enormous  size,  we 
find  that  the  sperm  whale  has  the  power  of  moving 
through  the  water  with  the  greatest  ease,  and  with  con- 
siderable velocity.  When  undisturbed,  he  passes  tran- 
quilly along,  just  below  the  surface  of  the  water,  at  the 
rate  of  about  two  to  fqur  miles  per  hour,  which  progress 
he  effects  by  a  gentle  oblique  motion  from  side  to  side 


164  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

of  the  "  flukes."  "When  proceeding  at  his  common  rate, 
his  body  lies  horizontally,  his  "  hump"  projecting  above 
the  surface,  with  the  water  a  little  disturbed  around  it, 
and  more  or  less  according  to  his  velocity.  This  dis- 
turbed water  is  called  by  whalemen  "  white  water,"  and 
from  the  greater  or  less  quantity  of  it  an  experienced 
whaleman  can  judge  very  accurately  of  the  rate  at  which 
the  whale  is  going  from  the  distance  of  three  or  four 
miles. 

In  this  mode  of  swimming  the  whale  is  able  to  attain 
a  velocity  of  about  eight  or  nine  miles  per  hour;  but 
when  desirous  of  proceeding  at  a  more  rapid  rate,  the 
action  of  the  tail  is  materially  altered.  Instead  of  being 
moved  laterally  and  obliquely,  it  strikes  the  water  with 
the  broad  flat  surface  of  the  flukes  in  a  direct  manner, 
upward  and  downward,  and  each  time  the  blow  is  made 
with  the  inferior  surface  the  head  of  the  whale  sinks 
down  to  the  depth  of  eight  or  ten  feet,  but  when  the 
blow  is  reversed  it  rises  out  of  the  water,  presenting  then 
to  it  only  the  sharp,  cutwater-like  inferior  portion. 

The  blow  with  the  upper  surface  of  the  flukes  appears 
to  be  by  far  the  most  powerful,  and  as,  at  the  same  time, 
the  resistance  of  the  broad  anterior  surface  of  the  head  is 
removed,  it  is  the  principal  means  of  progression,  This 
mode  of  swimming  with  the  head  alternately  in  and  out 
of  the  water  is  called  by  whalemen  "  going  head  out ;" 
and  in  this  way  the  whale  can  attain  a  speed  of  ten  or 
fifteen  miles  an  hour,  and  this  latter  is  believed  to  be  his 
greatest  velocity. 

The  tail  is  thus  seen  to  be  the  great  means  of  progres- 
sion, and  the  fins  are  not  much  used  for  that  purpose ; 
but  occasionally,  when  suddenly  disturbed,  the  whale 
has  the  power  of  sinking  suddenly  and  directly  down- 
ward in  the  horizontal  position,  which  he  efiects  by  strik- 
ing upward  with  the  fins  and  tail. 

Breathing. — All  the  ceiacea,  as  is  well  known,  are  warm- 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC. 


165 


blooded  animals,  and  possess  lungs,  and,  consequently, 
require  a  frequent  intercourse  with  atmospheric  air,  and 
for  this  purpose  it  is  necessary  that  they  should  rise  to 
the  surface  of  the  water  at  certain  intervals.  The  ma- 
jority of  this  class  of  animals  do  not  appear  to  perform 
this  function  with  any  regularity,  and  it  is  in  this  respect 
that  the  sperm  whale  is  remarkably  distinguished  among 
the  cetacea  ;  and  it  is  from  his  peculiar  mode  of  "  blow- 
ing" that  he  is  recognized,  even  at  a  great  distance,  by 
experienced  whalemen.  When  at  the  surface  for  the 
purposes  of  respiration  the  whale  generally  remains  still, 
but  occasionally  continues  making  a  gentle  progress  dur- 
ing the  whole  of  his  breathing-time.  If  the  water  is 
moderately  smooth,  the  first  part  of  the  whale  observable 
is  a  dark-colored  pyramidal  mass,  projecting  two  or  three 
feet  out  of  the  water,  which  is  called  the  "  hump." 


8POUT8  OF  THE  8PEKM   AND  BIGHT  WHALE. 

At  very  regular  intervals  of  time,  the  nose,  or  "  nod- 
dle-end," emerges  at  a  distance  of  from  forty  to  fifty  feet 
from  the  hump  in  the  full-grown  male.  From  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  nose  the  spout  is  thrown  up,  which,  when 
seen  from  a  distance,  appears  thick,  low,  and  bushy,  and 
of  a  white  color.  It  is  formed  of  the  expired  air,  which 
is  forcibly  ejected  from  the  spout -hole,  acquiring  its 
white  color  from  the  minute  particles  of  water  previous- 


166  LIFE  AND  ADVKN^TURE   IK 

Ij  lodged  in  the  chink  or  fissure  of  the  nostril,  and  also 
from  the  condensation  of  the  aqueous  vapor  thrown  oflp 
bj  the  lungs. 

The  spout  is  projected  from  the  spout-hole  at  an  angle 
of  about  forty-five  decrees,  in  a  slow  and  continuous 
manner,  for  the  space  of  about  three  seconds  of  time. 
K  the  weather  is  fine  and  clear,  and  there  is  a  gentle 
breeze  at  the  time,  it  may  be  seen  from  the  masthead  of 
a  moderate-sized  vessel  at  the  distance  of  five  or  six 
miles.  The  spout  of  the  sperm  whale  diJffers  much  from 
that  of  other  large  cetacea,  in  which  it  is  mostly  double, 
and  projected  thin,  and  like  a  sudden  jet;  and  as  in 
these  animals  the  spout-holes  are  situated  nearly  on  the 
top  of  the  head,  it  is  thrown  up  to  a  considerable  height 
in  almost  a  perpendicular  direction.  When,  however,  a 
sperm  whale  is  "gallied"  or  alarmed,  the  spout  is  thrown 
up  much  higher  and  with  great  rapidity,  and  conse- 
quently differs  much  from  its  usual  appearance.  The 
regularity  with  which  every  action  connected  with  its 
breathing  is  performed  by  the  sperm  whale  is  very  re- 
markable. The  length  of  time  he  remains  at  the  sur- 
face, the  number  of  spouts  or  expirations  made  at  one 
time,  the  intervals  between  the  spouts,  the  time  he  re- 
mains invisible  "  in  the  depth  of  the  ocean  buried,"  are 
all,  when  the  animal  is  undisturbed,  as  regular  in  suc- 
cession and  duration  as  it  is  possible  to  imagine. 

In  different  individuals  the  times  consumed  in  per- 
forming these  several  acts  vary,  but  in  each  they  are  mi- 
nutely regular,  and  this  well-known  regularity  is  of 
much  benefit  to  the  whaleman ;  for,  when  he  has  once 
noticed  the  periods  of  any  particular  sperm  whale  which 
is  not  alarmed,  he  knows  to  a  moment  when  to  expect 
it  again  at  the  surface,  and  how  long  it  will  remain 
there. 

Immediately  after  each  spout  the  nose  sinks  beneath 
the  water,  scarcely  a  second  intervening  for  the  act  of 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  167 

inspiration,  which  must  consequently  be  performed  very 
quickly,  the  air  rushing  into  the  chest  with  astonishing 
velocity.  There  is,  however,  no  sound  caused  by  the 
expiration  or  spout;  in  this  respect,  also,  differing  from 
other  whales,  for  the  "  fin-back"  whale  and  some  others 
have  their  inspirations  accompanied  by  a  loud  sound,  as 
of  air  forcibly  drawn  into  a  small  orifice.  This  sound  is 
called  by  whalemen  the  "  drawback,"  and  when  heard 
at  night  near  the  ship,  convinces  the  listening  watch  of 
the  species  to  which  it  belongs.  In  a  large  "  bull"  sperm 
whale,  the  time  consumed  in  making  one  inspiration  and 
one  expiration,  or  the  space  from  the  termination  of  one 
spout  to  that  of  another,  is  ten  seconds,  during  six  of 
which  the  nostril  is  beneath  the  surface  of  the  water,  the 
inspiration  occupying  one,  and  the  expiration  three  sec- 
onds ;  and  at  each  breathing-time  the  whale  makes  from 
sixty  to  seventy  inspirations,  and  remains,  therefore,  at 
the  surface  of  the  water  eleven  or  twelve  minutes.  At 
the  termination  of  this  breathing-time,  or,  as  whalemen 
say,  when  he  has  had  his  "  spoutings  out,"  the  head  sinks 
slowly,  the  "  small,"  or  the  part  between  the  hump  and 
flukes,  appears  above  the  surface  of  the  water,  curved 
with  the  convexity  upward;  the  flukes  are  then  lifted 
high  into  the  air,  and  the  animal,  having  assumed  a 
straight  position,  descends  perpendicularly  to  an  un- 
known depth.  The  act  is  performed  with  regularity  and 
slowness,  and  is  called  by  whalemen  "turning  flukes;" 
an  act,  too,  which  is  always  noticed  by  those  at  mast- 
head, who  call  loudly,  when  they  disappear  below  the 
surface,  "  T-h-e-r-e  goes  flukes  !"  The  whale  continues 
thus  hidden  beneath  the  surface  from  sixty  to  seventy 
minutes ;  some  will  remain  an  hour  and  twenty  minutes. 
If  we  take  into  consideration  the  quantity  of  time  that 
the  full-grown  sperm  whale  consumes  in  respiration,  and 
also  the  time  he  takes  in  searching  for  food  and  per- 
forming other  acts  below  the  surface  of  the  ocean,  we 


168  LIFE  A2sD  ADVEISTURE   IN 

should  find  that  a  seventh  of  the  time  of  this  huge  ani- 
mal is  consumed  in  the  function  of  respiration. 

The  females  being  found  generally  in  large  numbers 
and  in  close  company,  it  is  difficult  to  fix  the  attention 
upon  one  individual,  so  as  to  ascertain  precisely  the 
time  consumed  below  the  surface.  However,  as  all  in 
one  school  generally  rise  at  the  same  time,  it  may  be 
observed  that  they  remain  below  the  water  about  twen- 
ty minutes.  They  make  from  thirty -five  to  forty  expi- 
rations during  the  period  they  are  at  the  surface,  which 
is  about  five  minutes,  and  they  thus  consume  about  a 
fifth  of  their  time  in  respiration,  a  proportion  considera- 
bly greater  than  that  of  the  adult  males. 

When  disturbed  or  alarmed,  this  regularity  in  breath- 
ing appears  to  be  no  longer  observed.  For  instance : 
when  a  "bull,"  which,  when  undisturbed,  remains  at  the 
surface  until  he  has  made  fifty  expirations,  is  alarmed 
by  the  approach  of  a  boat,  he  immediately  plunges  be- 
neath the  surface,  although  he  may  not  have  performed 
more  than  half  the  usual  number  of  his  expirations. 
He  will  soon  rise  again  not  far  distant,  and  finish  his  full 
number  of  respirations ;  and  in  this  case,  also,  he  gener- 
ally sinks  without  having  assumed  the  perpendicular 
position  before  described.  On  the  contrary,  he  sinks 
suddenly  in  the  horizontal  position,  and  with  remarka- 
ble rapidity,  leaving  a  sort  of  vortex  in  the  place  where 
his  huge  body  lately  floated. 

When  urging  his  rapid  course  through  the  ocean  in 
that  mode  of  swimming  which  is  called  '.'  going  head 
out,"  the  spout  is  thrown  out  every  time  the  head  is 
raised  above  the  surface,  and  under  these  circumstances 
of  violent  muscular  exertion,  as  would  be  expected,  the 
respiration  is  much  more  hurried  than  usual. 

Other  Actioiis  of  the  Sperm  Whale. — When  in  a  state 
of  alarm,  or  gamboling  in  sport  on  the  surface  of  the 
ocean,  the  sperm  whale  has  many  curious  modes  of  act- 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  171 

ing.  It  IS  difficult  to  conceive  any  object  in  nature  cal- 
culated to  cause  alarm  to  this  leviathan ;  notwithstand- 
ing which,  he  is  remarkably  timid,  and  is  readily  alarm- 
ed at  the  approach  of  a  boat. 

When  seriously  alarmed,  he  is  said  by  whalemen  to 
be  "  gallied,"  and  in  this  state  he  performs  many  actions 
very  different  from  his  usual  mode,  as  has  been  men- 
tioned in  speaking  of  his  swimming  and  breathing,  and 
many  also  which  he  is  never  observed  to  perform  under 
any  other  circumstances.  One  of  them  is  what  is  called 
"  sweeping,"  which  consists  in  moving  the  tail  from  side 
to  side  on  the  surface  of  the  water,  as  if  feeling  for  the 
boat,  or  any  other  object  that  may  be  within  reach.  The 
whale  has  also  an  extraordinary  manner  of  rolling  over 
and  over  on  the  surface,  and  this  he  does  when  "  fasten- 
ed to"  from  a  boat.  At  times  they  place  themselves  in 
a  perpendicular  posture,  with  the  head  only  above  water, 
presenting,  in  this  position,  a  most  extraordinary  appear- 
ance. When  seen  from  a  distance  they  resemble  large 
black  rocks  rising  out  of  the  midst  of  the  ocean.  This 
posture  they  seem  to  assume  for  the  purpose  of  survey- 
ing more  accurately  or  more  easily  the  surrounding  ex- 
panse. A  species  of  whale,  called  by  whalemen  "  black- 
fish,"  is  most  frequently  in  the  habit  of  assuming  this 
position. 

The  eyes  of  the  sperm  whale,  being  placed  in  the  wid- 
est part  of  the  head,  of  course  afford  the  animal  an  ex- 
tensive field  of  vision,  and  he  appears  to  view  objects 
very  readily  that  are  placed  laterally  in  a  direct  line 
with  the  eye,  and  when  they  are  placed  at  some  distance 
before  him.  His  common  manner  of  looking  at  a  boat 
or  a  ship  is  to  turn  over  on  his  side,  so  as  to  cause  the 
rays  from  the  object  to  strike  directly  upon  the  retina. 

Now,  when  alarmed,  and  consequently  anxious  to 
take  as  rapid  a  glance  as  possible  on  all  sides,  he  can 
much  more  readily  do  so  when  in  the  above-described 


172  LIFE   AND  ADVENTURE   IN 

perpendicular  position.  Occasionally,  wlien  lying  at  the 
surface,  the  whale  appears  to  amuse  itself  by  violently 
beating  the  water  with  its  tail.  This  act  is  called  "lop- 
tailing,"  and  the  water  lashed  in  this  way  into  foam  is 
termed  "  white  water,"  and  by  it  the  whale  is  often  rec- 
ognized from  a  great  distance. 

But  one  of  the  most  curious  and  surprising  of  the  ac- 
tions of  the  sperm  whale  is  that  of  leaping  completely 
out  of  the  water,  or  of  "  breaching,"  as  whalemen  term 
it.  The  way  in  which  he  performs  this  extraordinary 
motion  appears  to  be  by  descending  to  a  certain  depth 
below  the  surface,  and  then  making  some  powerful 
strokes  with  his  tail,  which  are  frequently  and  rapidly 
repeated,  and  thus  convey  a  great  degree  of  velocity  to 
his  body  before  he  reaches  the  surface,  when  he  darts 
completely  out.  When  just  emerged  and  at  its  greatest 
elevation,  his  body  forms  with  the  surface  of  the  water 
an  angle  of  about  forty-five  degrees,  the  flukes  lying 
parallel  with  the  surface  in  falling.  The  animal  rolls 
his  body  slightly,  so  that  he  always  falls  on  his  side, 
and  seldom  breaches  more  than  twice  or  thrice  at  a 
time.  In  very  clear  weather,  on  the  Japan  ground,  we 
have  seen  the  breach  of  a  large  whale  at  a  distance  of 
sixteen  miles ;  but,  as  a  general  thing,  eight  or  ten  miles 
is  the  distance  that  a  breach  may  be  discovered  from 
masthead. 

It  is  probable  that  the  sperm  whale  often  resorts  to 
this  action  of  breaching  for  the  purpose  of  ridding  itself 
of  various  animals  which  infest  its  skin,  such  as  large 
"  sucking-fish,"  and  other  animals  which  resemble  crabs. 
Of  the  former  of  the  parasites,  some  fix  themselves  so 
closely  to  this  convenient  carrier  that  they  sometimes 
adhere  to  the  skin  of  the  whale  for  several  hours  after  its 
death,  and  then  suffer  themselves  to  be  forced  off  by. the 
hands  of  the  whalemen.  It  is  not  improbable,  also,  that 
some  of  these  actions  may  be  resorted  to  in  the  whale 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC. 


175 


endeavoring  to  avoid  the  assaults  of  the  swordfish,  by 
which  they  are  sometimes  attacked.  There  is  also  an 
animal  called  a  "  killer,"  which,  in  company  with  the 
swordfish,  attack  the  whale.  The  latter  will  goad  him 
from  below,  while  the  former  leaps  out  of  the  water  and 
falls  upon  him  from  above,  the  attack  thus  intimidating 
the  whale,  and  giving  the  swordfish  an  opportunity  to 
inflict  its  wounds. 

Herding, — The  sperm  whale  is  a  gregarious  animal, 
and  the  herds  formed  by  it  are  of  two  kinds ;  the  one 
consisting  of  females,  the  other  of  young  bulls  not  fully 
grown. 


These  herds  are  called  by  whalemen  "  schools,"  and 
occasionally  consist  of  great  numbers.  With  each  school 
of  females  are  always  from  one  to  three  large  males,  the 
lords  of  the  herd.  The  males  are  said  to  be  extremely 
jealous  of  intrusion  by  strangers,  and  to  fight  fiercely  to 


176  LIFE  AXD  ADVENTURE  IN 

maintain  their  rights.  The  full-grown  males,  or  "  large 
whales,"  almost  always  go  alone  in  search  of  food,  and, 
when  they  are  seen  in  company,  are  supposed  to  be  mi- 
grating from  one  feeding-ground  to  another.  The  large 
whale  is  generally  very  incautious,  and  if  alone,  he  is 
without  difficulty  attacked  and  easily  killed,  as  he  fre- 
quently, after  receiving  the  first  blow  from  the  har- 
poon, appears  hardly  to  feel  it,  but  continues  lying  like 
a  "  log  of  wood"  on  the  water  before  he  rallies  or  makes 
any  attempt  to  escape  from  his  enemies. 

Large  whales  are  sometimes,  but  rarely,  met  with  re- 
markably cunning  and  full  of  courage,  when  they  will 
commit  dreadful  havoc  with  their  jaws  and  tail.  The 
jaw  and  head,  however,  appear  to  be  their  principal  of- 
fensive weapons. 

The  female  breeds  at  all  seasons,  producing  but  one 
at  a  time,  except  in  a  few  instances,  in  which  two  are 
produced.  Her  time  of  gestation  is  unknown,  but  is 
supposed  to  be  about  ten  months.  Their  young,  when 
first  born,  are  about  twelve  or  fourteen  feet  in  length, 
and  five  or  six  in  girth.  The  females  are  much  smaller 
than  the  males,  being  considered  not  more  than  one 
fourth  the  size  of  the  adult  large  whale.  They  are  very 
remarkable  for  attachment  to  their  young,  which  they 
may  frequently  be  seen  urging  and  assisting  to  escape 
from  danger  with  the  most  unceasing  care  and  fond- 
ness. They  are  also  not  less  remarkable  for  their  strong 
feeling  of  attachment  to  each  other ;  and  this  is  carried 
to  so  great  an  extent,  that,  should  one  female  of  a  herd 
be  attacked  and  wounded,  her  faithful  companions  will 
remain  around  her  to  the  last  moment,  or  until  they 
are  wounded  themselves.  This  act  of  remaining  by  a 
wounded  companion  is  called  by  whalemen  "bringing 
to,"  and  whole  schools  have  been  destroyed  by  dexter- 
ous management,  when  several  ships  have  been  in  com- 
pany, wholly  from  these  whales  possessing  this  remark- 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  177 

able  disposition.  The  attachment  appears  reciprocal  on 
the  part  of  the  young  whales,  which  have  been  seen 
about  the  ship  for  hours  after  their  parents  have  been 
killed. 

The  young  males  or  "young bulls"  go  in  large  schools, 
but  differ  remarkably  from  the  females  in  disposition, 
inasmuch  as  they  make  an  immediate  and  rapid  retreat 
upon  one  of  their  number  being  struck,  who  is  left  to 
take  care  of  himself.  They  are  also  very  cunning  and 
cautious,  keeping  at  all  times  a  good  look-out  for  dan- 
ger. It  is  consequently  necessary  for  the  whaleman  to 
be  extremely  cautious  in  his  mode  of  approaching  them, 
so  as,  if  possible,  to  escape  being  seen  or  heard,  for  they 
have  some  mode  of  communication  one  to  another, 
through  a  whole  school,  in  an  incredibly  short  space 
of  time.  They  are  consequently  much  more  trouble- 
some to  attack,  a,nd  more  dangerous  and  difficult  to  kill, 
great  dexterity  and  dispatch  being  necessary  to  give 
them  no  time  to  recover  from  the  pain  and  fright  caused 
by  the  first  blow.  When  about  three  fourths  grown,  or 
sometimes  only  half,  they  separate  from  each  other  and 
go  singly  in  search  of  food. 

All  sperm  whales,  both  large  and  small,  have  some 
method  of  communication  with  each  other  by  which 
they  become  apprised  of  danger,  and  this  they  do,  al- 
though the  distance  may  be  very  considerable  between 
them,  sometimes  amounting  to  six,  seven,  eight,  or  even 
ten  miles.  The  method  by  which  these  communications 
are  carried  on  remains  a  curious  secret. 
H2 


178  LIFE  AND   ADVENTURE   IN 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Natoie  of  Sperm  Whales'  Food. — "  /Septa  Octopits." — Nautilus.    . 

It  lias  been  before  stated  that  tlie  food  of  the  sperm 
"whale  consists  almost  wholly  of  an  animal  of  the  cuttle- 
fish kind,  called  by  whalemen  "  squid,"  and  by  natural- 
ists "  /Sepia  octopus  ;"  and  at  times,  when  he  is  near  the 
shore,  he  feeds  upon  small  fish,  which  are  denominated 
"  rock  cod,"  and  which  sometimes  approach  the  size  of 
a  moderate  salmon. 

But  the  instances  in  which  fish  of  this  description 
have  been  ejected  from  the  stomach  of  the  sperm  whale 
are  but  rare,  while  every  day's  experience  proves  that 
its  common  food  consists  of  that  division  of  vioUuscozis 
animals  which  naturalists  have  denominated  "  Cephalopo- 
da" and  of  which  the  ^^ Sepia  octopus^''''  or  "sea  squid," 
appears  to  be  the  most  common. 

A  few  words  on  the  natural  history  of  this  highly  or- 
ganized and  remarkable  animal  can  not  fail  to  be  inter- 
esting to  the  reader,  as  it  has  excited  the  attention  of 
naturalists  for  many  ages,  from  the  remarkable  nature 
of  its  formation  and  peculiar  habits. 

Endowed  with  all  the  five  organs  of  sense,  it  is  second 
to  no  inhabitant  of  the  mighty  waters  in  the  complete 
elaboration  of  its  organs,  which  has  constantly  rendered 
it  a  great  object  of  attention  to  the  anatomist  and  physi- 
ologist. 

Dr.  Roget,  in  his  Bridgewaier  Treatise,  under  the  head 
of  "  Cephalopoda^''  states  that  "  we  now  arrive  at  a  high- 
ly interesting  family  of  mollusca,  denominated  Cepha- 
lopoda, and  distinguished  above  all  the  preceding  orders 
by  being  endowed  with  a  much  more  elaborate  organ- 


THE  SOUTH   PACIFIC.  179 

ization  and  a  far  wider  range  of  faculties.  The  Ceplia- 
lopoda  have  been  so  named  from  the  position  of  certain 
organs  of  progressive  motion  which  are  situated  on  the 
head,  and,  like  the  tentacula  of  the  polypus,  surround 
the  opening  of  the  mouth.  These  feet,  or  arms,  or  ten- 
tacula, if  we  choose  to  call  them  so,  are  long,  slender, 
and  flexible  processes,  exceedingly  irritable  and  con- 
tractile in  every  part,  and  provided  with  numerous  mus- 
cles, which  are  capable  of  moving  or  twisting  them  in 
all  directions  with  extraordinary  quickness  and  preci- 
sion. They  are  thus  capable  of  being  employed  as  in- 
struments not  only  of  progressive  motion,  but  also  of 
prehension.  For  this  purpose  they  are,  in  many  species, 
peculiarly  well  adapted,  because,  being  perfectly  flexi- 
ble as  well  as  highly  muscular,  they  twine  with  ease 
round  any  object  of  any  shape,  and  grasp  it  with  pro- 
digious force.  In  addition  to  these  properties,  they  de- 
rive a  remarkable  power  of  adhesion  to  the  surfaces  of 
bodies  from  their  being  furnished  with  numerous  suck- 
ers all  along  their  inner  sides.  Each  of  these  suckers 
is  usually  supported  on  a  narrow  neck  or  pedicle,  and 
strengthened  at  its  circumference  by  a  ring  of  cartilage. 
Their  internal  mechanism  is  more  artificial  than  the  sim- 
ple construction  already  described;  for. when  the  sur- 
face of  the  disk  is  fully  expanded,  it  is  formed  of  a  great 
number  of  small,  slender  pieces,  resembling  teeth,  close- 
ly set  together,  and  extending  from  the  inner  margin  of 
the  cartilaginous  rings  in  the  form  of  converging  radii 
to  within  a  short  distance  of  the  centre,  where  they  leave 
a  certain  aperture. 

"  In  the  flattened  state  of  the  sucker,  this  aperture  is 
filled  by  the  projecting  part  of  a  softer  substance,  which 
forms  an  interior  portion,  capable  of  being  detached  from 
the  flat  circle  of  the  teeth  when  the  sucker  is  in  action, 
and  of  leaving  an  intervening  cavity.  It  is  evident  that 
by  this  mechanism,  which  combines  the  properties  of  an 


180  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

accurate  valve  with  an  extensive  cavity  for  producing 
rarefaction,  or  the  tendency  to  vacuum,  the  power  of  ad- 
hesion is  considerably  augmented.  So  great  is  the  force 
with  which  the  tentacula  of  the  cuttle-fish  adhere  to 
bodies  by  means  of  this  apparatus,  that,  while  their  mus- 
cular fibres  continue  contracted,  it  is  easier  to  tear  away 
the  substance  of  the  limb  than  to  release  it  from  its  at- 
tachment. Even  in  the  dead  animal  we  have  found  that 
the  suckers  retain  considerable  powers  of  adhesion  to 
any  smooth  surface  to  which  they  may  be  applied. 

"  The  octopus,  which  was  the  animal  denominated  pol- 
ypus by  Aristotle,  has  eight  arms  of  equal  length,  and 
contains  in  its  interior  two  very  small  rudimentary  shells, 
formed  by  the  inner  surface  of  the  mantle.  This  shell 
becomes  much  more  distinct  in  the  loligo,  where  it  is 
cartilaginous,  and  shaped  like  the  blade  of  a  sword.  The 
internal  shell  of  the  common  sepia  is  large  and  broad, 
and  composed  wholly  of  the  carbonate  of  lime ;  it  is 
well  known  by  the  name  of  cuttle-fish  bone.  Its  structure 
is  extremely  curious,  and  deserves  particular  attention, 
as  establishing  the  universality  of  the  principle  which 
regulates  the  formation  of  shells,  whether  external  or  in- 
ternal, and  from  which  structures  differing  much  in  their 
outward  appearance  may  result.  It  is  composed  of  an 
immense  number  of  thin  calcareous  plates,  arranged  par- 
allel to  one  another,  and  connected  by  thousands  of  mi- 
nute hollow  pillars  of  the  same  calcareous  material,  pass- 
ing perpendicularly  between  the  adjacent  surfaces.  This 
shell  is  not  adherent  to  any  internal  part  of  the  animal 
which  has  produced  it,  but  is  inclosed  in  a  capsule,  and 
appears  like  a  foreign  body  impacted  in  the  midst  of  or- 
gans with  which,  at  first  sight,  it  appears  to  have  no  re- 
lation. It  no  doubt  is  of  use  in  giving  mechanical  sup- 
port to  the  soft  substance  of  the  body,  and  especially  to 
the  surrounding  muscular  flesh  ;  and  this  probably  con- 
tributes to  the  high  energy  which  the  animal  displays 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  181 

in  all  its  movements.  It  has  been  regarded  as  an  inter- 
nal skeleton,  but  it  certainly  has  no  pretensions  to  such 
a  designation ;  for,  although  enveloped  by  the  mantle, 
it  is  still  formed  by  that  organ,  and  the  material  of  which 
it  is  composed  still  carbonate  of  lime.  On  both  these 
accounts  it  must  be  considered  as  a  true  shell,  and  class- 
ed among  the  productions  of  the  integuments.  It  differs, 
indeed,  from  bony  structures,  which  are  composed  of  a 
different  kind  of  material,  and  formed  on  principles  of 
growth  totally  dissimilar.  Besides  tentacula,  the  sepia 
is  also  provided  with  a  pair  of  fleshy  fins,  extending 
along  the  two  sides  of  the  body.  The  hligo  has  similar 
organs  of  a  smaller  size,  and  situated  only  at  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  body  which  is  opposite  to  the  head.  They 
have  been  regarded  as  the  rudiments  of  true  fins,  which 
are  organs  developed  in  fishes,  and  which  are  supported 
by  slender  bones ;  but  no  structure  of  this  kind  exists 
in  the  fins  of  the  Cephalopoda.  In  swimming,  the  organs 
principally  employed  by  cuttle-fish  for  giving  an  effect- 
ive impulse  to  the  water  are  the  tentacula.  These  they 
employ  as  oars,  striking  with  them  from  behind  for- 
ward, so  that  their  effort  is  to  propel  the  hinder  part  of 
the  body,  which  is  thus  made  to  advance  foremost,  the 
head  following  in  the  rear.  They  also  use  these  organs 
as  feet  for  moving  along  the  bottom  of  the  sea.  In  their 
progress  under  these  circumstances,  the  head  is  always 
turned  downward  and  the  body  upward,  so  that  the  ani- 
mal may  be  considered  as  literally  walking  on  its  head ! 

"  The  necessity  of  this  position  for  the  feet  arises  prob- 
ably from  the  close  investment  of  the  mantle  over  the 
body;  for,  although  the  mantle  leaves  an  aperture  in  the 
neck  for  the  entrance  of  water  to  the  respiratory  organs, 
yet  in  other  respects  it  forms  a  sack,  closed  in  every  part 
except  where  the  head,  neck,  and  accompanying  tentac- 
ula protrude. 

"In  the  calamary^  as  well  as  the  common  sepia^  two 


182  LIFE  AND  ADVENTUEE  IN 

of  the  arms  are  much  longer  than  the  rest,  and  terminate 
in  a  thick  cylindrical  portion,  covered  with  numerous 
suckers,  which  may  not  inaptly  be  compared  to  a  hand. 
These  processes  are  employed  by  cuttle-fish  as  anchors, 
for  the  purpose  of  fixing  themselves  firmly  to  rocks  dur- 
ing violent  agitations  of  the  sea ;  and  accordingly  we 
find  that  it  is  only  the  extremities  of  these  bony  ten- 
tacula  that  are  provided  with  suckers,  while  the  short 
ones  have  them  also  along  their  whole  length.  The 
other  genera  of  cephalopodous  mollusca  are,  like  the  sepia, 
provided  with  tentacula  attached  to  the  head.  They 
comprehend  animals  differing  exceedingly  in  size,  some 
being  very  large,  but  a  great  number  very  minute,  and 
even  microscopic." 

Other  animals  of  this  kind  inhabit  shells,  one  of  which 
is  the  nautilus,  which,  says.Eoget,  "possesses  a  shell  ex- 
ceedingly thin  and  almost  pellucid;  probably  for  the 
sake  of  lightness,  for  it  is  intended  to  be  used  as  a  boat. 
For  the  purpose  of  enabling  the  animal  to  avail  itself 
of  the  impulses  of  the  air  while  it  is  thus  floating  on  the 
water,  Nature  has  furnished  it  with  a  thin  membrane, 
which  she  has  attached  to  two  of  the  tentacula,  so  that 
it  can  be  spread  out  like  a  sail  to  catch  the  light  winds 
which  waft  the  animal  forward  on  its  course.  While 
its  diminutive  bark  is  thus  scudding  over  the  surface  of 
the  deep,  the  assiduous  navigator  does  not  neglect  to  ap- 
ply its  tentacula  as  oars  on  either  side,  to  direct  as  well 
as  to  accelerate  its  motion.  No  sooner  does  the  breeze 
freshen  and  the  sea  become  ruffled  than  it  hastens  to 
take  down  its  sail,  and,  quickly  drawing  its  tentacula 
within  its  shell,  renders  itself  specifically  heavier  than 
the  water,  and  sinks  immediately  into  more  tranquil  re- 
gions beneath  the  surface." 

Sir  William  Jardine,  in  speaking  of  the  food  of  the 
sperm  whale,''*'  ventures  to  suggest  to  those  who  may 

*  Nataralists'  Library,  vol.  vi.,  p.  162. 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  183 

have  frequent  opportunities  of  observing  whether  this 
whale  may  not  also  frequently  resort  to  the  medusce,  and 
minute  fish  which  in  so  remarkable  a  manner  supply 
food  to  some  of  the  smaller,  as  well  as  the  other  genera 
of  the  gigantic  whales.  That  there  is  an  abundant  sup- 
ply of  this  sustenance,  both  in  the  Antarctic  Ocean  and 
the  more  smiling  latitudes  of  the  southern  seas,  can  easi- 
ly be  proved  by  a  reference  to  Lesson's  Statements,  and 
also  to  the  Journal  of  Captain  Colnett,  who,  when  near 
the  southern  point  of  America,  observes  i  "During  this 
forenoon  we  passed  several  fields  of  spawn,  which  caused 
the  water  to  bear  the  appearance  of  barley  covering  the 
surface  of  a  bank." 

Arbigny  also  remarks  that  "  there  are  immense  tracts 
off"  the  coast  of  Brazil  filled  with  small  creatures  so 
numerous  as  to  impart  a  red  color  to  the  sea."  "  State- 
ments of  this  sort,"  observes  Sir  William,  "  could  easily 
be  multiplied ;  and  hence  we  can  not  but  suppose  that 
this  kind  of  food,  which  is  ascertained  to  afford  such 
rich  nourishment  to  the  other  great  cetacea,  may  very 
possibly  be  appropriated  by  the  sperm  whale  to  the 
same  purpose." 

This  is  an  unaccountable  error  on  the  part  of  the  com- 
piler of  the  Naturalists^  Library.  The  apparent  banks 
above  mentioned,  and  which  we  have  ourselves  fre- 
quently seen  in  various  parts  of  the  ocean,  are  certain- 
ly formed  by  myriads  of  medusce  and  other  small  ani- 
mals, which  form  the  sustenance  of  the  Balcena  mystice- 
ivs,  or  right  whale's  food,  which  consists  of  animals 
of  the  shrimp  kind,  and  other  minute  creatures,  which 
are  closely  congregated  and  swarm  in  those  animated 
"banks,"  but  of  which  the  sperm  whale  never  partakes; 
as  it  is  not  "very  possible,"  but  quite  impossible  that  he 
could  do  so,  however  inclined  he  might  be,  on  account 
of  the  organization  of  his  feeding  apparatus,  which  may 
be  readily  seen  when  its  form  is  referred  to. 


184  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

The  Sepia  octopus,  or  "sea  squid,"  sometimes  readies 
an  enormous  size.  In  the  Philosophical  Transactions  for 
1758  (777),  after  having  given  an  interesting  description 
of  a  specimen  sent  for  examination,  the  editor  states  that 
"  it  can,  by  spreading  its  arms  abroad  like  a  net,  so  fet- 
ter and  entangle  the  prey  they  inclose  when  they  arc 
drawn  together  as  to  render  it  incapable  of  exerting  its 
strength ;  for,  however  feeble  these  branches  or  arms  may 
be  singly,  their  power  united  becomes  surprising ;  and 
we  are  assured  Nature  is  so  kind  to  these  animals,  that  if, 
in  a  struggle,  any  of  their  arms  are  broken  off,  after  some 
time  they  will  grow  again.  It  is  evident,"  he  continues, 
"from  what  has  been  said,  that  the  sea  polypus  or  octopus 
must  be  terrible  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  waters  in  pro- 
portion to  its  size,  for  the  close  embraces  of  its  arms  and 
adhesion  of  its  suckers  must  render  the  efforts  of  its 
prey  ineffectual  either  for  resistance  or  escape,  unless  it 
be  endowed  with  an  extraordinary  degree  of  strength." 

A  gigantic  Cephalopoda  was  discovered  by  Drs.  Bank 
and  Solander,  in  Captain  Cook's  first  voyage,  floating 
dead  upon  the  sea,  surrounded  by  birds,  who  were  feed- 
ing on  its  remains.  From  the  parts  of  this  specimen 
which  are  still  preserved  in  the  Hunterian  Collection, 
and  which  have  always  excited  the  attention  of  natu- 
ralists, it  must  have  measured  at  least  six  feet  from  the 
end  of  the  tail  to  the  end  of  the  tentacles. 

But  this  last  we  must  imagine  a  mere  pigmy  when 
we  consider  the  enormous  dimensions  of  the  one  spoken 
of  by  Doctor  Swediaus,*  whose  tentacula  or  limbs  meas- 
ured twenty-seven  feet  in  length.  But  let  the  doctor 
speak  for  himself:  "  One  of  the  gentlemen,"  says  he, 
"  who  was  so  kind  as  to  communicate  to  me  his  obser- 
vations on  this  subject  (ambergris),  also,  ten  years  ago, 
caught  a  sperm  whale  that  had  in  its  mouth  a  tentacu- 
lum  of  the  Sepia  ociopodia  nearly  twenty-seven  feet 

*  Philosophical  Transactions,  toI.  Ixxiii.,  p.  226. 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  185 

long !  This  did  not  appear  its  whole  length,  for  one  end 
was  corroded  by  digestion,  so  that,  in  its  natural  state,  it 
may  have  been  a  great  deal  longer.  "When  we  consid- 
er the  enormous  bulk  of  the  tentacula  here  spoken  of,  we 
shall  cease  to  wonder  at  the  common  saying  of  the  fish- 
ermen, that  the  cuttle-fish  is  the  largest  fish  of  the  ocean." 

In  Todd's  Cyclopedia  of  Anatomy  (529),  treating  of 
Cephalopoda^  in  an  admirable  paper  by  Mr.  Owen,  it 
states  that  "  the  natives  of  the  Polynesian  Islands,  who 
dive  for  shell-fish,  have  a  well-founded  dread  and  abhor- 
rence of  these  formidable  Cephalopods,  and  one  can  not 
but  feel  surprised  that  their  fears  should  have,  perhaps, 
exaggerated  their  dimensions  and  destructive  attributes." 

The  same  learned  writer,  after  having  beautifully  de- 
scribed another  animal  of  this  order,  observes:  "Let  the 
reader  picture  to  himself  the  projecting  margin  of  the 
horny  hook  developed  into  a  long,  curved,  sharp-point- 
ed claw,  and  these  weapons  clustered  at  the  expanded 
terminations  of  the  arms,  and  arranged  in  a  double  al- 
ternate series  along  the  whole  internal  surface,  and  he 
will  have  some  idea  of  the  formidable  nature  of  the  car- 
nivorous onycliotentliis.'''' 

This  species  of  Cephalopoda  is  thus  armed  with  those 
liind  of  teeth  at  the  termination  of  the  tentacles  in  or- 
der to  secure  the  agile,  slippery,  and  mucous-clad  fishes 
on  which  it  preys ;  and  there  is  an  instance  recorded  in 
the  works  of  a  celebrated  author  on  Excursions  in  the 
Mediterranean^  by  which  we  perceive  that  these  terrible 
creatures  sometimes  prey  upon  men.  The  author  says: 
"  In  those  shallow  waters  are  caught  great  quantities  of 
fish,  by  forming  curved  lines  or  palisades  some  way  out 
to  sea  with  palm  branches,  by  which  the  fish  that  come 
up  with  the  high  water  are  retained  when  it  recedes. 
The  horrid  polypus,  which  is,  however,  greedily  eaten, 
abounds,  and  some  are  of  enormous  size.  They  prove, 
at  times,  highly  dangerous  to  bathers. 


186  LIFE  AISTD  ADVENTURE  IN 

"  An  instance  of  this  occurred  a  few  years  since.  A 
Sardinian  captain,  bathing  at  Jerbah,  felt  one  of  his  feet 
grasped  by  one  of  these  animals ;  on  this,  with  his  oth- 
er foot  he  tried  to  disengage  himself,  but  this  limb  was 
immediately  seized  by  another  of  the  monster's  arms ; 
he  then  endeavored  to  free  himself  with  his  hands,  but 
these  also  were  firmly  grasped  by  the  polypus,  and  the 
poor  man  was  shortly  after  found  drowned,  with  all  his 
limbs  strongly  bound  together  by  the  arms  and  legs  of 
the  fish ;  and  it  is  extraordinary,  that  where  this  hap- 
pened the  water  is  scarcely  four  feet  in  depth." 

Other  species  of  these  surprising  animals,  as  the  cdla- 
maries,  or  "  flying  squid,"  as  they  are  termed  by  seamen, 
have  the  power  of  propelling  themselves  through  the 
atmosphere.  "  There  is  good  reason  for  believing,"  says 
Mr.  Owen,  "that  some  of  the  small,  slender-bodied  subu- 
late species  of  this  genus  are  enabled  to  strike  the  water 
with  such  force  as  to  raise  themselves  above  the  surface, 
and  dart,  like  the  flying-fish,  for  a  short  distance  through 
the  air."  We  have  seen  very  frequently,  both  in  the 
North  and  South  Pacific,  tens  of  thousands  of  these  ani- 
mals dart  simultaneously  out  of  the  water  when  pur- 
sued by  albicore  or  dolphins,  and  propel  themselves, 
head  first,  in  a  horizontal  direction,  for  eighty  or  a 
liundred  yards,  assisting  their  progression  probably  by 
a  rotary  or  screvjing  motion  of  their  arms  or  tentacles, 
which  they  have  the  power  of  thus  moving  with  singu- 
lar velocity.  This  species  also,  as  well  as  the  large 
onychotenthis,  we  are  led  to  believe,  often  serves  the 
sperm  whale  for  food.  We  have  seen,  on  several  occa- 
sions, very  large  limbs  of  the  latter  species  of  squid 
floating  on  the  surface  of  the  ocean,  appearing  as  if  bit- 
ten off  by  some  animal,  most  probably  by  the  sperm 
whale ;  for,  when  these  remains  have  been  seen,  we  al- 
ways looked  out  most  anxiously  for  those  animals,  and 
have  seldom  been  disappointed  in  seeing  them  within  a 
few  hours  afterward. 


THE  SOUTH   PACIFIC.  187 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Close  of  the  first  "  Season"  on  Japan. — Making  Passage  to  the  Group. 
— "Land  ho!" — "Breathing-places  for  Sailors." — Henderville's  Isl- 
and.— Unpleasant  Prospect. — NaiTOW  Escape  from  the  Breakers. — 
A  large  Whale. — An  ugly  Customer. — Ocean  Island  Dick. — Ocean 
Island. — "Some  Pumpkins." — Bound  for  Strong's  Island. — Calms. 
— "Blow,  ye  gentle  Breezes." — At  our  "  Hotel"  once  more. — Hospi- 
tality of  the  Natives. — A  diabolical  Scheme. — Anger  of  the  King. — 
Narrow  Escape  of  all  Hands  from  Poisoning. — Wilds  and  the  Queen. 
— ^A  sudden  Awakening. — Wild  Boar. — Join  in  the  Chase. — Bravo 
Men. — The  Boar  presented  in  great  State  to  the  King. — Bravery  of 
the  "White  Man." — "Hog  not  Dog." — At  sea  again. 

At  the  close  of  our  first  "  season"  on  Japan,  -we  found 
ourselves  with  two  hundred  and  fifty  barrels  more  of 
oil  than  when  we  came  on  to  the  ground,  and  we  felt 
greater  encJouragemeijt,  though  we  were  yet  very  poor- 
ly off,  being  nearly  two  years  from  home,  with  but  five 
hundred  and  fifty  barrels.  However,  the  weather  ad- 
monished us  that  we  must  be  leaving  those  regions; 
and  accordingly,  on  the  10th  of  September,  we  pointed 
the  "  Emily's"  head  to  the  southward,  and,  crowding  on 
the  "  kites,"  we  were  soon  in  pleasant  weather,  making 
passage  to  our  old  ground,  the  Group. 

On  the  morning  of  Thursday,  September  18th,  we 
were  aroused  by  the  soul-cheering  cry  of  "  Land  ho !" 
In  a  moment  all  hands  were  in  the  rigging  to  catch  a 
glimpse  of  the  land.  All  strained  their  eyes  with  eager 
excitement  to  once  more  view  a  green  spot.  "We  had 
now  been  cruising  nearly  five  months,  and  during  that 
time  we  had  seen  nothing  that  resembled  land,  and 
but  two  ships.  Sailing  in  the  midst  of  the  vast  North 
Pacific,  and  cruising  week  after  week,  month  after 
month,  nothing  new,  nothing  to  change  the  monotony 
so  usual  to  shipboard,  all  at  once  rose  to  our  view  a 


188  LIFE  AND  ADVEISTURE  IN 

beautiful  island  densely  covered  witli  dark  green  foli- 
age, the  tall  cocoanut-trees  nodding  a  -welcome  as  they 
waved  their  sweeping  branches  to  and  fro ;  and  as  we 
drew  near  to  the  land,  the  neat  huts  of  the  natives  peer- 
ing through  the  leafy  opening,  with  the  white  sand- 
beach,  a  delightful  clear  atmosphere,  with  a  fine  breeze, 
the  old  ship  standing  on  m  majesty,  all  combined  to 
make  it  a  scene  refreshing  to  behold — one  of  beauty  and 
loveliness.  Truly  have  these  islands  been  denominated 
"breathing-places  for  sailors."  After  beating  about, 
enduring  gales  and  storms,  and  meeting  with  no  living 
beings  upon  the  trackless  ocean,  to  be  ushered  into  the 
presence  of  one  of  these  lovely  "sea-girt  isles"  fills  the 
beholder  with  the  most  joyous  feelings,  and  convinces 
him  that  he  is  yet  in  the  land  of  the  living.  We  found 
ourselves,  almost  unconsciously  we  might  say,  offering 
our  thanks  and  praises  to  the  Giver  of  all  good  for  His 
protecting  power  through  the  dangers  and  storms  of  our 
voyage  thus  far,  and  trusting  that  we  should  ere  long 
be  restored  to  those  we  so  dearly  loved. 

But  we  were  now  to  cruise  for  a  few  months  among 
these  islands.  On  Tuesday,  September  21st,  we  were  in 
sight  of  Henderville's  Island.  At  sunset,  being  about 
eight  miles  distant  from  the  land,  the  wind  died  away, 
leaving  every  thing  calm,  the  surface  of  the  water  un- 
rufiled,  not  a  breath  of  air  stirring,  and  the  sails  idly 
hanging  or  flapping  themselves  to  and  fro.  The  cur- 
rent was  rapidly  setting  us  in-shore.  About  eight 
o'clock  we  lowered  a  boat,  and  found  we  were  drifting 
toward  the  reef  at  the  rate  of  two  miles  per  hour.  The 
lights  of  the  native  fishermen  along  the  reefs  were  plain- 
ly visible,  and  the  roar  of  the  breakers  came  to  our  ears 
in  thunder  tones,  that  sent  a  thrill  through  every  heart, 
sounding  like  a  death-knell,  or  the  roaring  of  some 
monster  anxious  for  his  prey.  That  land  which  had 
appeared  so  beautiful  to  us  but  a  few  days  previous  was 


THE   SOUTH   PACIFIC.  189 

now  hateful  to  our  sight,  and  oh!  how  we  longed  for 
"plenty  of  sea-room"  again.  That  island  might  truly 
be  a  "  breathing-place"  for  us,  but  we  feared  it  would  be 
our  last  "  breathing-place,"  for  we  well  knew  the  dispo- 
sition of  its  natives,  and  were  well  aware  that,  should 
our  ship  be  lost,  there  was  no  mercy  to  be  expected 
from  those  rapacious  savages.  Serious  thoughts  for 
once  filled  the  mind  of  every  man  on  board:  the  visions 
of  those  happy  homes  far  away — were  we  never  to  visit 
those  homes  again  ?  The  memories  of  the  many  happy 
days  spent  with  friends — were  we  never  again  to  enjoy 
them  ?  After  battling  the  elements  thus  far,  after  pass- 
ing through  so  many  dangers,  were  we  thus  to  perish — 
to  be  thus  massacred  by  a  horde,  of  merciless  savages, 
and  no  one,  perhaps,  to  tell  our  friends  when  and  how 
we  died  ?  Oh !  it  was  horrible  to  think  of,  and  caused 
a  shudder  of  anguish  to  pass  through  our  every  frame. 
And  yet  nothing  but  the  interposition  of  a  kind  and 
merciful  Providence  could  avert  this  fate.  Slowly  but 
surely  were  we  drifting  into  those  fatal  breakers,  and 
one  hour  more,  one  short  hour,  we  felt  must  decide  our 
fate.  Oh,  for  a  breeze !  in  vain  we  look  for  it ;  in  vain 
we  wished  for  it.     All  was  calm  and  unruffled. 

As  a  last  resort,  the  boats  were  ordered  out,  and  all 
hands  sprang  into  them  as  they  never  sprang  before,  and 
commenced  towing  the  ship.  For  four  long  hours  did 
those  noble  men  work  at  the  oars,  a  battle  between  life 
and  death,  each  seemingly  striving  for  the  mastery. 
We  were  just  able,  by  this  constant  tugging  at  the  oars, 
"  to  hold  our  own,"  to  stem  the  current.  About  one 
o'clock  in  the  morning  a  breeze  spr.ang  up,  and  never, 
never  was  wind  so  welcomed.  All  hands  gave  one  si- 
multaneous shout,  "  We  are  saved !"  and  returned  to  the 
ship  with  joyous  hearts.  We  could  not  but  thank  our 
heavenly  Father  for  thus  preserving  us  from  the  horri- 
ble fate  that  at  one  time  seemed  so  certainly  to  await  us. 


190  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE   IN 

Glad  indeed  were  we  to  be  delivered  from  this  fate, 
and  we  now  directed  our  course  toward  Ocean  Island. 
On  the  morning  of  Thursday,  September  25th,  at  day- 
light, the  welcome  shout  was  heard,  "There  she  blows! 
A  large  whale !"  Instantly  the  boats  were  down,  and 
all  hands  gave  chase.  We  discovered  the  whale  had 
been  fastened  to  by  some  other  ship,  as  he  had  two 
irons  in  him,  with  a  long  line  trailing  behind.  The  lar- 
board, or  mate's,  boat  soon  fastened ;  the  whale  sounding 
heavily,  a  signal  was  made  for  "more  line,"  and  the 
bow  boat  ran  down,  and  passed  to  them  their  line ;  the 
whale  continued  to  sound,  taking  out  nearly  eight  hund- 
red fathom  (4800  feet),  until  the  irons  drew.  In  a  short 
time  the  whale  made  his  appearance;  the  boats  again 
renewed  the  chase.  After  some  considerable  manoeu- 
vring and  provoking  dodging  on  the  part  of  the  whale, 
the  waist-boat  fastened.  Away  he  went  again,  railroad 
speed,  and  after  treating  the  boat's  crew  to  a  ride  that 
caused  them  to  exert  every  muscle  to  hold  their  hair  on, 
the  irons  again  "  came  home." 

This  only  served  to  increase  the  excitement,  and  again 
the  several  boats  gave  chase  with  redoubled  energy  and 
ardor.  About  sunset  the  captain's  boat  drew  near ;  he 
stood  in  the  head  of  the  boat,  determined  to  make  the 
old  fellow  show  the  "  red  flag."  He  was  now  close  on ; 
all  were  looking  with  breathless  anxiety.  They  neared 
him,  and  the  captain  darted ;  the  second  iron  followed 
the  first  in  an  instant,  and  he  shouted  "  We  are  fast !" 
and  turned  lound  to  roll  up  the  saU  of  the  boat.  The 
old  man  was  the  spryest  man  in  the  ship,  and  before  he 
could  roll  up  the  sail  (which  usually  occupies  about  a 
minute),  the  last  flake  of  line  went  out  of  the  boat,  and 
away  went  the  old  veteran  with  four  hundred  fathom 
(2400  feet)  of  our  line  and  two  harpoons.  This  was  the 
last  chance,  it  being  near  sunset,  and  they  gave  up  the 
chase,  at  the  same  time  respecting  the  intelligence  and 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  191 

sagacity  of  the  whale  in  not  allowing  himself  to  become 
a  prey  to  the  frail  boats.  He  probably  felt  himself  in- 
sulted by  being  pestered  with  such  small  trash,  as  well 
as  the  idea  of  being  melted  up  for  grease. 

The  men  came  on  board  hungry,  thirsty,  and  tired, 
having  pulled  and  worked  from  6  A.M.  to  8  P.M.,  with 
but  a  couple  of  cakes  of  hard  bread  and  about  a  quart 
of  water  each  to  refresh  themselves  with  through  the 
day.  The  weather  was  intensely  hot;  they  were  ex- 
posed to  the  equatorial  sun,  which  was  directly  over 
them ;  and  yet  they  thought  of  none  of  these  things  till 
they  came  on  board  with  no  whale.  Thus  ended  the 
chase  of  the  largest  whale  we  had  yet  seen,  and  which 
our  boys  christened  "  Ocean  Island  Dick."  The  captain 
asserted  that  for  the  many  years  he  had  followed  the 
sea  (about  thirty),  he  had  never  seen  so  large  a  whale  as 
this  one.  Never  mind ;  he  has  got  the  ship's  mark,  in 
the  shape  of  two  irons,  that  will  be  apt  to  trouble  him 
some  before  he  rids  himself  of  them. 

Saturday,  September  27th,  we  were  at  Ocean  Island. 
The  king  himself,  with  quite  a  number  of  natives,  came 
oif,  bringing  with  them  nothing  but  pumpkins  to  trade. 
One  of  the  boys  remarked  that  he  "supposed  they  con- 
sidered themselves  '  some  pumpkins  P  "  They  were  of  an 
excellent  quality,  but  were,  in  reality,  our  crooked-neck 
squash.  They  raise  them  in  great  quantities,  and  it  is 
the  principal  article  of  trade  with  the  ships.  This  isl- 
and is  certainly  the  most  beautiful  one  of  the  group,  the 
land  being  moderately  high,  and  presenting  a  very  even 
surface. 

On  leaving  here  we  shaped  our  course  again  for 
Strong's  Island,  which  we  saw  on  Wednesday,  October 
8th.  As  we  neared  the  land  the  wind  died  away,  leav- 
ing us  becalmed,  which  continued  for  four  days  and 
nights.  How  provoking  it  was  to  lie  there,  about  six- 
teen or  eighteen  miles  from  the  land,  during  all  this  time, 


V 


192  LIFE  AND  ADVENTUEE  IN 

and  feel  ourselves  thus  imprisoned !  During  the  day-, 
time  the  surface  of  the  water  would  scarce  be  disturbed 
by  a  ripple,  and  presented  the  appearance  of  a  vast  mir- 
ror, with  a  green  islet  by  the  way  of  decoration.  After 
having  been  shut  up  in  the  ship  for  six  long  and  weary 
months  without  setting  foot  on  shore,  to  be  thus  kept  in 
sight  of  a  green  "breathing-place"  for  four  days  and 
nights,  and  feel  that  you  could  not  reach  it  so  long  as 
the  calm  continued,  was  tantalizing;  it  was  not  strange 
that  we  wished  for  a  strong  breeze,  one  that  would  put 
us  into  the  harbor  in  two  or  three  hours. 

At  length  our  wishes  were  gratified ;  and  on  Sunday 
morning,  October  12th,  we  again  dropped  anchor  in  our 
old  resting-place.  In  the  afternoon  we  went  on  shore, 
and,  on  arriving  at  our  "  hotel,"  found  Zegrah  and  his 
wife,  who  gave  us  a  hearty  welcome,  having  been  ex- 
pecting us.  In  the  evening  they  gave  a  feast  in  honor 
of  our  arrival. 

The  next  two  or  three  days  we  spent  as  usual,  ram- 
bling over  the  island,  through  canals  and  over  walls — 
through  swamps  and  ditches  in  search  of  adventure.  As 
we  have  before  observed,  we  found  the  natives  very  kind 
and  hospitable,  always  welcoming  us  in  a  hearty  man- 
ner ;  and,  from  their  actions,  we  should  judge  they  were 
really  glad  to  see  us  again.  Wherever  we  visited,  they 
spread  before  us  the  numerous  fruits  of  the  island,  urg- 
ing us  to  eat,.,and  insisting  that  we  should  drink  a  shell 
of  carva  with  them.  We  can  never  forget  their  kind, 
simple-hearted  hospitality,  and  we  have  often  looked 
back  upon  our  visits  there  as  green  spots  in  the  desert 
of  life,  refreshing  and  cheering. 

Since  the  death  of  Mr.  Smith,  whenever  we  had  been 
at  this  island.  Canker  would  never  come  near  the  ship. 
This  we  thought  strange,  as  the  first  time  we  were  there 
he  was  on  board  nearly  every  day.  Still,  he  appeared 
very  kind  to  any  of  the  ship's  company  when  they  call- 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  193 

ed  upon  him,  making  tliem  presents  of  fruit,  etc.,  as  if 
wishing  to  reinstate  himself  in  their  good  graces. 

On  Thursday,  October  16th,  the  king  came  off  to  the 
ship  to  dinner.  On  sitting  down  at  the  table,  he  hap- 
pened to  cast  his  eye  upon  a  dish  of  greens,  which  had 
been  sent  to  the  ship  by  Canker,  and  cooked  by  the 
steward.  He  instantly  took  the  dish,  and  then  went 
upon  deck,  examined  them  minutely,  and  threw  them 
all  overboard.  He  then  inquired  if  there  were  any  more 
on  board,  and  on  being  answered  that  a  large  quantity 
had  been  cooked  for  the  men,  he  ordered  them  to  be 
thrown  overboard  immediately.  He  then  asked,  "Who 
been  makey  send  all  the  same  on  board?"  On  being 
told  "  Canker,"  his  anger  scarcely  knew  bounds.  He 
raved  and  appeared  so  excited  we  feared  he  would  do 
himself  some  injury.  After  a  little  while  he  became 
more  calm,  and  said,  "  Captain,  you  look  out  that  Can- 
ker ;  he  too  much  bad  man ;  he  no  good.  I  no  like 
speak  too  much;  he  my  son."  It  was  evident  there 
was  a  struggle  going  on  in  the  heart  of  the  good  old 
king.  He  loved  his  son  notwithstanding  his  faults,  and 
to  thus  have  evidence  of  his  bloodthirstiness  angered 
him,  and  it  was  some  time  before  he  fully  recovered 
himself. 

It  was,  indeed,  a  diabolical  scheme  of  this  Canker's. 
Some  one  of  the  crew  had  injudiciously  told  him,  in  jest, 
that  "a  large  man-of-war  was  on  its  way  to  the  island 
to  inquire  into  the  death  of  Mr.  Smith,  and  that,  if  the 
captain  or  any  of  the  crew  should  tell  them  he  had  poi- 
soned Mr.  S.,  the  man-of-war  would  hang  him."  This  he 
believed,  and,  feeling  his  guilt,  he  determined  to  remove 
all  evidence  of  it  by  putting  the  whole  ship's  company 
to  death  by  poison.  He  knew  we  were  all  fond  of 
greens,  and  he  chose  a  day,  also,  on  which  none  would 
be  on  shore,  all  hands  taking  dinner  on  board  that  day. 
But,  through  the  interposition  of  the  Almighty,  he  was 

I 


19-1  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

prevented  from  accomplishiiig  his  dark  and  bloody  de- 
signs. How  much  had  we  to  thank  our  heavenly  Fa- 
ther for,  and  how  many  times  did  he  preserve  our  lives 
from  threatened  dangers,  seen  and  unseen,  during  those 
five  eventful  years  of  our  life! 

One  evening  during  our  stay,  one  of  our  men,  by  the 
name  of  Wilds,  whom  we  shipped  on  our  first  visit  to 
this  island,  had  some  little  disturbance  with  her  Strong's 
Island  majesty,  the  queen.  Wilds  had  always  been  a 
great  favorite  with  her,  and  was  privileged  to  do  and 
say  as  he  pleased  about  the  house.  He  had  lived  with 
the  king  while  on  the  island.  This  evening  he  came  in 
with  his  mats  and  pillow  rolled  up  under  his  arm,  and 
commenced  joking  and  teasing  the  queen  ;  finally,  start- 
ing to  leave,  he  asked  her  if  he  could  leave  them  there 
until  he  returned  for  them.  On  being  answered  in  the 
affirmative,  he  threw  the  bundle  at  her  in  a  playful  man- 
ner, which  happened  to  hit  her  rather  solid,  and  knocked 
her  down.  She  screamed,  of  course  (what  woman  would 
not  ?),  and  imagined  herself  nearly  killed.  Poor  Wilds 
at  first  knew  not  what  to  do  or  say ;  finally  he  under- 
took to  apologize,  but  she  would  not  listen  to  a  word, 
and  ordered  him  to  leave. 

This  little  incident  shows  what  a  trifling  circumstance 
will  break  the  friendship  of  some  of  these  natives,  and 
turn  them  to  as  bitter  enemies  as  they  were  former 
friends,  as  in  the  case  of  Mr.  S.  and  Canker.  Wilds  re- 
ceived orders  from  the  queen  not  to  come  to  the  palace 
again,  as  she  did  not  like  the  idea  of  allowing  her  royal 
person  to  be  a  target  for  a  common  sailor  to  fire  his  bun- 
dles at.  The  king,  however,  when  he  heard  of  it,  laugh- 
ed at  it  as  a  good  joke,  and  treated  Wilds  with  as  much 
friendship  as  formerly. 

We  were  now  all  ready  for  sea  again — wood  and  wa- 
ter all  on  board.  Thinking,  however,  that  we  must 
have  one  more  ramble  before  leaving,  on  Saturday,  Oc- 


¥ 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  195 

tober  18th,  we  started,  in  company  with  several  of  our 
shipmates,  for  a  stroll  among  the  mountains.  During 
our  walk  we  came  to  a  fine  spring  running  into  a  large 
stone  basin.  The  weather  being  excessively  hot,  we 
concluded  to  lie  down  in  this  cool,  shady  place,  and  rest. 
While  reclining  on  these  beautiful  mossy  banks,  spin- 
ning yarns  of  homes  far  away,  and  of  happy  days,  car- 
rying ourselves,  in  imagination,  to  those  homes  and 
pleasures,  we  were  very  suddenly  and  unceremoniously 
aroused  from  our  easy  positions  by  a  rushing  sound,  ac- 
companied by  a  hoarse  roar.  It  can  be  imagined  that 
we  did  not  occupy  many  moments  in  regaining  our  feet, 
and  we  had  scarcely  done  so  ere  a  large  wild  boar  rush- 
ed past  with  great  velocity,  deigning  not  even  to  bestow 
a  passing  glance  upon  us,  the  spectators  of  his  race, 
whose  hair  stood  on  end,  but  kept  on  his  course  until 
he  was  lost  in  the  thicket. 

Some  natives,  headed  by  Sekane,  the  chief,  soon  made 
their  appearance,  and  stated  that  they  had  started  the 
boar  from  his  den  by  wounding  him,  and  asked  us  to 
join  in  the  chase.  This  we  consented  to  do,  as  we  were 
anxious  to  view  the  sport ;  but,  not  exactly  understand- 
ing the  hooks  and  crooks  of  wild-boar  hunting,  took 
good  care  to  keep  well  in  the  rear,  and  our  eyes  about 
us.  It  was  certainly  amusing ;  the  slightest  noise  would 
cause  our  company  to  start  for  some  tree,  and  on  finding 
that  it  was  merely  a  false  alarm,  would  look  immense- 
ly foolish.  The  natives  now  wished  us  to  guard  a  pass 
that  we  had  arrived  at  while  they  went  after  him.  As 
soon  as  the  natives  were  all  out  of  sight,  we  took  our 
stations  in  small  trees,  where  we  were  sure  that  we 
should  be  out  of  reach  of  the  boar's  tushes.  After  wait- 
ing some  time,  we  heard  a  shouting  but  a  short  distance 
from  us.  Each  now  instinctively  shouted  "  he  is  com- 
ing," and  tried  to  ascend  still  higher.  We  were  re- 
lieved from  our  fears,  however,  by  seeing  the  squad  of 


196  LIFE  AND  ADVENTUKE   IN 

natives  approacliing,  witli  the  wild  boar  lashed  in  such 
a  manner  that  he  could  not  escape.  He  was  carried  by 
means  of  poles  run  through  the  lashings  of  his  feet  by 
four  natives.  They  felt  very  proud  of  their  booty,  and 
exclaimed,  "  King  have  big  feast  now !"  He  was  cap- 
tured by  means  of  a  lasso  thrown  over  his  head  by  one 
of  the  natives.  Sekane  now  wished  us  to  form  a  grand 
procession  and  march  to  the  king's  house,  where  the 
boar  would  be  delivered  to  and  received  by  the  king  in 
great  style,  "all  the  same  'Meriky  fashion,"  as  they  term- 
ed it.  We  accordingly  did  so ;  and  on  our  arrival,  the 
natives,  who  had  gathered  in  great  numbers,  commenced 
shouting,  until  we  could  hardly  "hear  ourselves  think." 
The  animal  was  then  presented  to  the  king  by  Sekane, 
who  made  a  speech,  which  was  very  intelligible  to  us, 
as  we  could  not  understand  a  word  of  it,  and  replied  to 
by  the  king  in  the  same  manner.  We  were  informed, 
however,  by  Caesar  that  the  king  praised  highly  the 
natives  who  had  captured  him,  and  that  he  spoke  high- 
ly of  the  bravery  and  assistance  the  white  men  had  ren- 
dered, as  Sekane  had  given  him  a  glowing  description 
of  our  assistance.  This,  of  course,  restored  our  confi- 
dence in  our  own  courage,  which  had  somewhat  fallen. 

The  animal  was  immediately  slaughtered,  and  prepara- 
tions were  made  for  a  "  big  feast,"  to  which  the  white 
men  were  all  invited,  and  those  of  us  who  had  so  mate- 
rially assisted  in  its  capture  were  assigned  posts  of  honor 
by  the  side  of  Sekane,  who  was  the  "  lion  of  the  day." 
We  now  began  to  think  that  we  had  some  courage,  and 
many  of  the  boys  expressed  themselves  as  ready  to  pro- 
ceed on  another  "  wild  boar  hunt,"  provided — the  na- 
tives would  go  ahead.  The  feast  passed  off  with  great 
eclat,  and  all  hands  enjoyed  it  much,  dining  this  time  on 
veritable  "  hog,"  and  not  "  dog." 

But  we  were  now  ready  for  the  "blue  waters"  again, 
and  we  must  not  loiter  too  long  amid  the  pleasant 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  197 

scenes  of  Strong's  Island.  On  Monday,  October  19tli, 
we  weighed  anchor  and  proceeded  to  sea.  The  king 
and  Captain  H.  accompanied  us  outside  the  passage, 
when  we  took  leave  of  them,  and,  with  a  fair  wind, 
shaped  our  course  once  more  for  the  Group.  "We  had 
been  treated  with  such  uniform  kindness  by  most  of  the 
natives  the  many  times  that  we  had  visited  this  island, 
and  by  such  marked  respect  by  the  king  and  chiefs,  that 
the  remembrance  of  the  happy  hours  we  had  there  spent, 
and  the  pleasant  and  agreeable  scenes  we  had  met,  as 
well  as  the  information  we  had  gained,  still  clings  to  us, 
and  furnishes  many  an  agreeable  moment  for  reflection 
and  pleasure. 


198  LIFE   AND  ADVENTURE  IN 


CHAPTER  XXL 

Blackfish.  —  Ship  "Phocion."  —  Ship  "Ganges."  — Bark  "Belle."— 
"Chips"  in  Prison. — Friday's  Departure. — Sorrowful  Leave-taking. 
— Ship  "Bengal." — Ship  "Lion." — Henderville's  Island  once  more. 
—  Dick  Simpson.  —  Ship  "John  and  Elizabeth."  —  Another  New 
Year. — "Music  by  the  Band." — Variations. — An  "Amateur"  Con- 
cert.— Bark  "Alfred  Tyler." — Wreck  of  the  "Ontario." — Ocean  Isl- 
and again. — Freshwater  Cavern. — Superstitions. — Beachcombers. — 
Rascally  Operations.  —  Convicts.  —  Taboo.  — Natives.  —  Climate. — 
Houses.  — Religious  Belief.  —  Sharp  Practice.  —  Characteristics.  — 
Whaling. — Pleasant  Island. — Disturbance  with  the  Natives. — Ship 
"Mohawk." — Pitcairn's  Island. — Mutiny  of  the  "Bounty's"  Crew. — 
Death  of  Mrs.  P. — "To  my  Husband." — Massacre  atCovill's  Island. 
— Whaling  again. — A  few  stray  Thoughts  upon  that  subject. — Heavy 
Gale. — A  "Gemman  ob  Color." — His  splendid  Dress. — Passage  to 
Guam. 

We  were  again  at  our  old  business  of  cruising  and 
whaling,  but  with,  poor  success.  On  Friday,  October 
81st,  we  captured  three  blackfish.  These  are  a  species 
of  whale  yielding  from  one  to  five  barrels  of  oil,  of  an 
inferior  quality,  and  almost  black,  from  which  color  the 
fish  seems  to  have  derived  its  name. 

Monday,  November  3d,  we  spoke  the  "  Phocion,"  of 
New  Bedford,  Captain  Nichols,  and  the  day  following 
the  "  Ganges,"  of  Nantucket,  cutting  in  a  sperm  whale, 
which  assured  us  that  others  were  fortunate  if  we  were 
not,  and  consoling  ourselves  that  our  turn  would  soon 
come. 

Nothing  of  any  interest  transpired  for  a  month  from 
this  time,  except  occasionally  lowering  for  whales  and 
the  capture  of  two,  until  Wednesday,  December  3d, 
when  we  again  spoke  the  bark  "Belle,"  just  from  Syd- 
ney.    From  them  we  learned  that  our  carpenter,  alias 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  199 

"  Chips,"  who,  it  will  be  recollected,  deserted  at  Pitt's 
Island,  and  left  in  the  "  Belle,"  had  been  arrested  in 
Sydney  for  stealing  a  quadrant  and  sextant  from  a  ship 
there,  and  thrown  into  prison.  "We  were  now  to  lose 
one  of  our  best  men,  though  a  Kanaka.  For  some  time 
past  it  was  evident  that  Friday  had  been  growing  home- 
sick, and  he  often  told  us,  "I  like  go  see  my  land." 
The  captain,  being  willing  to  gratify  him,  and  it  being 
uncertain  when  we  should  again  visit  his  "land," con- 
sented to  his  taking  passage  in  the  "  Belle,"  which  ves- 
sel was  going  there  immediately.  Friday  was  overjoy- 
ed at  this  prospect;  his  chest  was  brought  upon  deck, 
ready  to  be  lowered  into  the  other  ship's  boat.  But 
now  came  the  parting  with  his  shipmates.  This  was 
hard  for  poor  Friday,  for  all  loved  him,  though  he  had 
a  dark  skin.  He  had  been  so  kind  to  all  on  board — so 
ever  ready  and  willing  to  do  all  in  his  power  to  serve 
others'  interests — so  quick  to  learn,  and  so  grateful  for 
any  kindness  shown,  that  all  hands,  from  captain  to 
cook,  loved  and  respected  him.  Many  little  presents 
had  been  bestowed  upon  him  as  tokens  of  remembrance, 
and  his  heart  almost  failed  him  as  he  looked  around 
upon  those  he  was  leaving  behind;  the  tears  gushed 
from  his  eyes ;  but,  summoning  resolution  to  his  aid,  he 
sprang  into  the  boat  awaiting  him,  and  sadly  waving  his 
hand  to  us,  was  soon  out  of  sight.  We  can  truly  say 
that  we  have  parted  with  many  white  acquaintances 
with  less  sorrow  than  we  did  with  Friday,  the  Pitt's  Isl- 
and Kanaka. 

On  Tuesday,  December  9th,  we  spoke  the  "  Bengal," 
of  New  London,  an  Arctic  whaler,  who  reported  quite 
a  number  of  whalers  lost  in  the  Arctic  the'  previous  sea- 
son by  the  ice.  A  short  time  after  we  spoke  the 
"  Lion,"  of  Providence,  Captain  Nichols,  a  brother  of 
the  master  of  the  "Phocion,"  whom  we  saw  a  few  days 
previous. 


200  LIFE   AND   ADVENTURE   IN 

The  morning  of  Saturday,  December  20tli,  broke  with 
very  squally,  thick  weather,  and  we  came  very  near 
running  down  Henderville's  Island,  or  running  well  on 
it.  It  appeared  almost  that  we  were  fated  to  be  cast 
away  on  this  hated  place.  The  "Lion"  was  on  our 
weather  beam,  and  was  running  in  the  same  direction. 
As  the  squall,  which  was  a  severe  one,  passed  off,  and 
the  weather  became  clear,  we  discovered  breakers  just 
ahead.  We  had  "  tacked"  ship  very  quick  a  number 
of  times  during  the  voyage,  but  never,  we  venture  to 
say,  did  the  "  Emily"  go  about  quicker  than  then.  The 
"  Lion,"  being  to  windward,  had  more  room ;  she  also 
went  about,  and  we  left  those  parts  just  as  fast  as  the 
breeze  would  drive  us. 

While  trading  at  Simpson's  Island,  on  Monday,  De- 
cember 29th,  a  chief  came  alongside  in  a  canoe,  and 
wished  to  "see  the  elephant" — in  other  words,  cast  his 
lot  with  us.  He  was  partly  induced  to  do  so  by  seeing 
on  board  an  old  shipmate,  for  it  seems  he  had  been  one 
cruise  in  the  "Planter."  The  necessary  bargain  was 
soon  made,  and  the  captain  bestowed  upon  him  the  name 
of  Dick  Simpson.  Dick  turned  to  his  canoe,  and  order- 
ed the  natives  to  go  ashore.  They  appeared  loth  to 
part  with  him  thus,  but  after  some  very,  to  us,  unintel- 
ligible jargon  and  extraordinary  flourishes  on  the  part 
of  Dick,  they  left,  with  sorrowful  countenances. 

The  next  day  we  spoke  the  "John  and  Elizabeth," 
of  New  London,  Captain  Chappel.  We  were  now  speak- 
ing  ships  day  after  day,  and  nearly  all  of  them  later  from 
home  than  we  were.  From  most  of  them  we  obtained 
papers,  and  many  of  the  crew  obtained  letters.  It  was 
truly  pleasant  to  us  to  come  so  frequently  in  contact 
with  ships  from  our  own  native  land,  separated  from  it, 
as  we  were,  by  the  diameter  of  the  earth — vessels  that 
bore  aloft  the  same  stars  and  stripes  that  we  had  so  oft- 
en beheld  waving  proudly  at  home — vessels  that  con- 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  201 

tained  Americans,  our  countrymen ;  and,  although  we 
might  not  be  participants  in  the  mighty  events  which 
were  transpiring  in  our  native  land,  yet  we  could  hear 
of  them  even  in  that  distant  clime.  These  incidents 
truly  served  as  bright  spots  in  the  storm-beaten  mari- 
ner's existence. 

And  now  we  come  to  another  New-year.  Thursday, 
January  1st,  18—,  has  come.  Another  page  has  been 
written  in  the  history  of  man.  The  thought  came  to  us 
on  this  morning,  How  many  hearts  at  home  have  been 
made  desolate,  during  the  past  year,  by  the  loss  of  near 
and  dear  friends  ?  How  many  have  been  called  from 
this  vale  of  tears  to  meet  their  God  ?  Have  we  profited 
by  the  lessons  which  our  heavenly  Father  has  endeav- 
ored to  impress  upon  us?  To  us  will  come,  before  an- 
other New-year  shall  roll  around,  the  words,  "  This  year 
thou  shalt  die." 

All  hands  this  day  held  a  sort  of  jubilee,  "going  in," 
as  far  as  our  limited  means  would  allow.  All  appeared 
to  think  of  but  one  thing,  "  We  are  one  year  nearer 
home."  No  work  was  done  except  attending  to  the 
sailing  of  the  ship;  all  hands  regaled  themselves  on 
roast  chicken,  sea  pie,  plum  duff,  etc.  (which  did  not 
amount  to  much — etc.,  we  mean),  for  dinner. 

The  sailor  is  proverbial  for  his  love  of  music.  We 
were  gamming  with  the  "  Phocion"  on  Wednesday,  Jan- 
uary 7th,  and  in  the  evening  the  cook  of  the  "  Phocion" 
came  on  board,  bringing  with  him  his  violin.  He  was 
the  blackest  man  we  ever  saw — so  black  that  we  actually 
believe  charcoal  would  make  a  white  mark  on  him. 
He  was  not  only  cook  on  board  the  "  P.,"  but  was  also 
the  "  band."  He  was  asked  down  into  the  cabin  to  en- 
tertain his  listeners  with  his  melodious  strains,  and  there 
requested  to  play  "  Hail  Columbia ;"  and  whether  it  was 
because  we  were  so  long  absent  from  the  land  of  Yan- 
kee Doodle,  or  whether  we  had  no  appreciation  of  music, 

12 


202  LIFE   AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

we  know  not,  yet  we  could  discern  no  track  or  trace  of 
"  Hail  Columbia,"  as  we  were  wont  to  hear  it  in  times 
past.  Not  relishing  it,  we  requested  him  to  play  "  Yan- 
kee Doodle,"  with  the  "variations."  He  commenced, 
and  before  the  first  strain  was  ended  the  dogs  left  the 
cabin  for  the  deck  on  the  full  run,  howling,  with  their 
paws  to  their  ears ;  the  crockery  in  the  steward's  room 
seemed  to  catch  the  infection,  and  danced  about  merri- 
ly ;  the  officers,  who  had  retired  for  their  watch  below, 
growled ;  the  din  increasing  as  the  darkey  worked  into 
the  merits  of  the  tune,  all  tended  to  create  admirable 
confusion,  until  we  had  faint  ideas  of  being  spectators 
and  listeners  in  Pandemonium.  The  noise  increased; 
the  darkey  sawed  away  more  lustily  than  ever;  the 
captain's  wife  cried  out  that  she  was  half  crazy,  until 
some  person,  who  had  "no  soul  for  music,"  threw  a 
large  sea-boot  with  such  unerring  aim  and  force,  that, 
striking  the  "  band"  full  in  the  countenance,  fairly  drove 
his  nose  in,  as  it  was  already  as  flat  as  possible ;  the 
claret  flew,  and  the  darkey,  muttering  something  about 
not  appreciating  music,  pocketed  the  insult  and  started 
forward  for  the  forecastle. 

Here  the  concert  again  commenced,  with  all  the  "  va- 
riations." The  men  joined  in,  some  singing,  some  drum- 
ming on  tin-pans,  some  dancing,  the  Kanakas  yelling, 
and  the  old  darkey  "  coming  down"  with  a  vengeance. 
As  these  melodioics  sounds  reached  the  deck,  we  really 
imagined  ourselves  in  Bedlam ;  at  all  events,  we  could 
not  but  wish  the  fiddler  there  with  a  hearty  good- will. 

Tuesday,  January  20th,  we  spoke  the  bark  "  Alfred 
Tyler,"  of  Edgartown,  Captain  Luce,  who  reported  that 
a  few  days  previous  he  had  lost  a  boat  and  boat's  crew 
by  desertion.  They  had  supplied  themselves  with  pro- 
visions and  every  thing  necessary,  and  it  was  supposed 
had  steered  for  Sydenham's  Island.  Captain  Luce,  im- 
mediately disguising  his  vessel  by  paint,  and  transform- 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  203 

ing  her  into  a  ship,  was  in  pursuit  of  the  deserters,  and 
felt  confident  that  he  should  yet  capture  them. 

On  Monday,  February  2d,  spoke  the  "  Hector"  again, 
who  reported  the  "  Ontario,"  of  New  Bedford,  ashore  on 
the  reef  at  Pitt's  Island,  and  rapidly  going  to  pieces  at 
last  accounts.  She  had  on  board  twenty-two  hundred 
barrels  whale  oil,  which  was  mostly  stove  or  drifted 
about.  The  "  Phocion,"  very  fortunately  being  in  the 
neighborhood  at  the  time  of  the  accident,  rendered  them 
all  the  assistance  in  her  power.  All  hands  were  saved. 
The  "P."  also  picked  up  four  or  five  hundred  barrels 
of  oil,  which,  in  addition  to  that  already  obtained,  filled 
her,  and  she  started  for  home,  the  captain  of  the  wreck- 
ed Ontario  taking  passage.  It  was  very  fortunate  that 
the  ship  went  ashore  at  this  island,  as  the  natives  are 
kind  and  generous,  and  rendered  all  the  assistance  in 
their  power  to  get  her  off  the  reef,  and  in  obtaining  sev- 
eral valuable  articles  from  the  ship,  which  they  deliver- 
ed to  their  rightful  owners.  Had  she  been  wrecked  on 
some  of  the  southward  islands,  she  would  have  been  in- 
stantly thronged  with  natives,  who  would  have  plund- 
ered her  of  every  thing  they  could  carry  off,  if  they  did 
not  massacre  the  entire  crew. 

The  captain  and  all  hands  having  a  desire  for  more 
of  the  Ocean  Island  "  pumpkins,"  and  being  in  the  im- 
mediate vicinity,  we  steered  for  Ocean  Island,  arriving 
there  on  Wednesday,  February  11th.  Quite  a  number 
of  canoes  came  off  to  trade,  but  the  captain,  not  obtaining 
a  sufficient  quantity,  sent  a  boat  on  shore  to  obtain  a 
boat-load,  if  possible. 

On  this  island  there  is  but  one  place  where  the  na- 
tives can  procure  fresh  water,  and  that  is  a  large  cavern 
some  distance  below  the  surface  of  the  earth.  By  rea- 
son of  a  superstitious  belief,  no  one  but  women  are  al- 
lowed to  descend  this  cavern ;  hence  the  females  bring 
all  the  water  that  is  required  by  the  natives  in  cocoanut- 


202  LIFE   AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

we  know  not,  yet  we  could  discern  no  track  or  trace  of 
"  Hail  Columbia,"  as  we  were  wont  to  hear  it  in  times 
past.  Not  relishing  it,  we  requested  him  to  play  "  Yan- 
kee Doodle,"  with  the  "variations."  He  commenced, 
and  before  the  first  strain  was  ended  the  dogs  left  the 
cabin  for  the  deck  on  the  full  run,  howling,  with  their 
paws  to  their  ears ;  the  crockery  in  the  steward's  room 
seemed  to  catch  the  infection,  and  danced  about  merri- 
ly ;  the  officers,  who  had  retired  for  their  watch  below, 
growled ;  the  din  increasing  as  the  darkey  worked  into 
the  merits  of  the  tune,  all  tended  to  create  admirable 
confusion,  until  we  had  faint  ideas  of  being  spectators 
and  listeners  in  Pandemonium.  The  noise  increased; 
the  darkey  sawed  away  more  lustily  than  ever;  the 
captain's  wife  cried  out  that  she  was  half  crazy,  until 
some  person,  who  had  "no  soul  for  music,"  threw  a 
large  sea-boot  with  such  unerring  aim  and  force,  that, 
striking  the  "  band"  full  in  the  countenance,  fairly  drove 
his  nose  in,  as  it  was  already  as  flat  as  possible ;  the 
claret  flew,  and  the  darkey,  muttering  something  about 
not  appreciating  music,  pocketed  the  insult  and  started 
forward  for  the  forecastle. 

Here  the  concert  again  commenced,  with  all  the  "  va- 
riations." The  men  joined  in,  some  singing,  some  drum- 
ming on  tin-pans,  some  dancing,  the  Kanakas  yelling, 
and  the  old  darkey  "coming  down"  with  a  vengeance. 
As  these  melodious  sounds  reached  the  deck,  we  really 
imagined  ourselves  in  Bedlam ;  at  all  events,  we  could 
not  but  wish  the  fiddler  there  with  a  hearty  good- will. 

Tuesday,  January  20th,  we  spoke  the  bark  "  Alfred 
Tyler,"  of  Edgartown,  Captain  Luce,  who  reported  that 
a  few  days  previous  he  had  lost  a  boat  and  boat's  crew 
by  desertion.  They  had  supplied  themselves  with  pro- 
visions and  every  thing  necessary,  and  it  was  supposed 
had  steered  for  Sydenham's  Island.  Captain  Luce,  im- 
mediately disguising  his  vessel  by  paint,  and  transform- 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  203 

ing  her  into  a  ship,  was  in  pursuit  of  the  deserters,  and 
felt  confident  that  he  should  yet  capture  them. 

On  Monday,  February  2d,  spoke  the  "  Hector"  again, 
who  reported  the  "Ontario,"  of  New  Bedford,  ashore  on 
the  reef  at  Pitt's  Island,  and  rapidly  going  to  pieces  at 
last  accounts.  She  had  on  board  twenty-two  hundred 
barrels  whale  oil,  which  was  mostly  stove  or  drifted 
about.  The  "  Phocion,"  very  fortunately  being  in  the 
neighborhood  at  the  time  of  the  accident,  rendered  them 
all  the  assistance  in  her  power.  All  hands  were  saved. 
The  "P."  also  picked  up  four  or  five  hundred  barrels 
of  oil,  which,  in  addition  to  that  already  obtained,  filled 
her,  and  she  started  for  home,  the  captain  of  the  wreck- 
ed Ontario  taking  passage.  It  was  very  fortunate  that 
the  ship  went  ashore  at  this  island,  as  the  natives  are 
kind  and  generous,  and  rendered  all  the  assistance  in 
their  power  to  get  her  off  the  reef,  and  in  obtaining  sev- 
eral valuable  articles  from  the  ship,  which  they  deliver- 
ed to  their  rightful  owners.  Had  she  been  wrecked  on 
some  of  the  southward  islands,  she  would  have  been  in- 
stantly thronged  with  natives,  who  would  have  plund- 
ered her  of  every  thing  they  could  carry  ofi",  if  they  did 
not  massacre  the  entire  crew. 

The  captain  and  all  hands  having  a  desire  for  more 
of  the  Ocean  Island  "  pumpkins,"  and  being  in  the  im- 
mediate vicinity,  we  steered  for  Ocean  Island,  arriving 
there  on  Wednesday,  February  11th.  Quite  a  number 
of  canoes  came  off  to  trade,  but  the  captain,  not  obtaining 
a  sufficient  quantity,  sent  a  boat  on  shore  to  obtain  a 
boat-load,  if  possible. 

On  this  island  there  is  but  one  place  where  the  na- 
tives can  procure  fresh  water,  and  that  is  a  large  cavern 
some  distance  below  the  surface  of  the  earth.  By  rea- 
son of  a  superstitious  belief,  no  one  but  women  are  al- 
lowed to  descend  this  cavern ;  hence  the  females  bring 
all  the  water  that  is  required  by  the  natives  in  cocoanut- 


204  LIFE   AND  ADVENTURE   IN 

shells,  as  they  have  no  utensils  of  a  larger  description. 
At  some  seasons  of  the  year  the  water  is  very  low,  and 
the  king  places  all  on  an  allowance  of  so  much  per  day. 
At  such  times  many  suffer  from  the  want  of  it.  We 
remember  that  at  one  time  of  visiting  this  island,  it  being 
in  the  dry  season,  the  natives  came  off  in  swarms  to  get 
water  to  drink,  and  so  numerous  were  they  that  the  cap- 
tain was  obliged  to  compel  them  to  desist,  as  we  had 
barely  sufl6.cient  to  last  until  the  end  of  the  cruise. 

There  were  several  white  men  living  on  shore  here 
at  this  time,  of  the  class  known  as  "beachcombers." 
From  their  appearance  we  should  judge  them  to  be  of 
the  worst  class  of  society — strong-built,  able-bodied  men, 
living  here  an  indolent,  lazy  life ;  nothing  to  do,  their 
victuals  brought  to  them  by  the  females,  and  swilling  a 
sort  of  rum  made  from  the  cocoanut.  The  natives,  be- 
lieving by  their  protestations  that  they  can  accomplish 
any  thing,  appear  to  favor  them,  and  each  chief  has  a 
"  beachcomber"  to  do  his  trading  on  the  ship.  Yet  they 
resort  to  all  manner  of  deceit,  both  with  natives  and 
with  any  ship's  company  that  will  allow  them  to  come 
on  board.  Whenever  a  ship  heaves  in  sight,  they  rep- 
resent to  the  natives  that  the  captain  is  either  a  brother 
or  cousin  of  theirs,  and  promise  great  things.  When 
they  come  on  board,  they  generally  go  about  begging 
among  the  men,  spinning  a  most  pitiful  yarn,  and,  at  the 
same  time,  taking  good  care  not  to  take  any  thing  out  of 
tlieir  reach,  but  still  reaching  very  far  if  occasion  requires. 
If  they  can  find  a  disaffected  person  among  the  ship's 
company,  they  "button-hole"  him  at  once,  and  persuade 
him,  if  possible,  to  desert,  telling  him  how  easily  he  can 
live  on  shore ;  that  they  will  take  charge  of  and  hide 
him,  so  that  neither  the  captain  nor  natives  can  find  him; 
and  represent  that  they  have  unbounded  influence  with 
their  chief,  who  is  always  the  highest  on  the  island.  If 
they  succeed  in  persuading  the  man  to  desert,  they  will 


*  THE   SOUTH    PACIFIC.  205 

promise  to  carry  many  little  articles  ashore  for  him,  with 
some  clothing,  as,  they  say,  "  You  would  be  suspected  if 
they  should  see  you  with  a  bundle  of  clothes,  but  if  they 
see  me  with  them  they  will  readily  suppose  I  have 
bought  them."  After  getting  all  they  can,  they  persuade 
the  man  to  hide  in  the  bottom  of  a  canoe  alongside,  throw 
a  mat  over  him,  and  the  natives,  who  understand  the 
game  that  is  being  played,  paddle  off  to  the  shore.  Pres- 
ently the  man  is  missed.  The  captain  goes  ashore,  and 
offers  a  reward  of  ten  or  twenty  pounds  of  tobacco  and 
some  pipes  for  the  recovery  of  the  deserter.  The  poor 
miserable  Judas  then  goes  to  the  captain,  and  informs 
him  that  he  has  discovered  the  runaway's  hiding-place, 
and  takes  him  immediately  to  the  place  where  he  has 
put  the  man  himself,  and  reveals  him  to  the  captain, 
who  orders  him  to  the  boat.  The  poor  fellow,  not  dar- 
ing to  resist,  with  a  feeling  of  shame,  and  his  head  hung 
down,  proceeds  to  the  boat ;  the  captain  pays  the  reward 
to  the  villain,  who  chuckles  to  think  how  nicely  he  has 
deceived  and  betrayed  both  parties. 

We  have  often  wondered  why  it  is  that  masters  of 
vessels,  who  well  know  the  foregoing  remarks  to  be  true, 
will  allow  these  miserable  pests  and  outcasts  to  come  on 
board  their  ships.  They  are  nearly  all  escaped  convicts 
from  the  penal  colonies  of  Sydney  and  Norfolk  Island, 
and  the  worst  class  of  those  convicts.  They  contami- 
nate all  with  whom  they  come  in  contact ;  and  no  per- 
son, having  the  slightest  regard  for  himself,  or  possessed 
of  the  smallest  degree  of  ambition  or  honesty,  would  for 
a  moment  consent  to  reside  on  one  of  these  islands, 
living  in  the  manner  these  beachcombers  generally  do. 
They  are  constantly  instilling  some  mischief  into  the 
heads  of  the  natives,  and  teaching  them  treachery  and 
deceit.  Many  times,  we  are  sorry  to  say,  has  great  in- 
justice been  done  to  the  shipwrecked  or  invalid  mariner 
by  classing  him  with  these  people,  but  no  one  despises  a 
beachcomber  more  than  a  true  sailor. 


206  LIFE  AND  ADVENTUEE  IN  * 

The  taboo  is  also  exercised  at  this  island ;  per  exam- 
ple: when  their  products  are  very  scarce,  the  king 
places  the  taboo  upon  all  trade,  thus  forbidding  them  to 
take  off  any  thing  to  ships ;  but  should  a  ship  arrive 
and  wish  to  trade,  the  taboo  may  be  broken  by  the  cap- 
tain coming  ashore  and  paying  the  king  a  certain  amount 
of  tobacco.  As  soon  as  the  taboo  is  off,  canoes  go  in 
great  numbers.  The  appearance  of  three  ships  at  any 
one  time  also  breaks  the  taboo. 

The  natives  here  also  live  in  a  state  of  great  subjection. 
The  principal  authority  is  vested  in  a  king ;  the  chiefs 
rank  next,  each  chief  having  authority  over  a  particu- 
lar tribe,  who  are  held  more  as  slaves  than  as  free  men. 
The  climate  is  warm,  and  of  an  even  temperature,  the 
island  being  forty-eight  miles  south  of  the  equator. 
They  enjoy  alternately  the  sea-breeze  and  land-breeze, 
the  thermometer  ranging  from  seventy-five  to  eighty 
degrees. 

The  inhabitants  are  strong,  robust-looking,  and  wear 
no  dress  of  any  description.  The  houses  are  similar  to 
those  on  Strong's  Island,  built  of  bamboo,  very  large 
and  comfortable,  but  not  kept  over  and  above  neat. 
Their  ideas  of  good  and  bad  are  similar  to  those  held  by 
the  natives  of  the  Windward  Islands  of  the  Group; 
they  have  their  evil  spirits,  or  "  Jentsh,"  who,  they  be- 
lieve, occupy  the  deep  cavern ;  but,  as  females  are  con- 
sidered harmless,  none  but  they  can  descend  the  cavern 
and  live.  They  are  most  expert  thieves,  and  their  trans- 
actions in  this  line  would  shame  a  London  pickpocket. 
As  a  specimen :  we  bought  some  beautiful  shells  from 
one  of  these  gentry  at  a  reasonable  price,  and  very  care- 
fully, as  we  supposed,  knowing  their  weakness  for  tak- 
ing things,  hid  them.  Presently  the  same  native  we  had 
purchased  of  came  up  from  his  canoe  alongside  with 
another  assortment,  which  he  offered  us.  We  bought 
them,  at  the  same  time  remarking  the  great  resemblance 


THE   SOUTH   PACIFIC.  209 

they  bore  to  the  ones  we  had  just  purchased,  and  pro- 
ceeded, to  stow  them  away.  On  arriving  at  the  place, 
lo  and  behold !  the  shells  were  gone,  and,  on  examining 
closely,  we  found  that  we  had  purchased  the  same  shells 
twice.  The  rascal  had  watched  where  we  put  them,  in- 
formed another  native,  who  had  slyly  taken  them,  lower- 
ed them  to  the  former  one  alongside,  who  then  paddled 
around  the  other  side  of  the  ship,  and  came  on  board 
with  "more  shell,"  as  he  said.  We  were  completely 
sold  as  well  as  the  shells,  and,  feeling  somewhat  indig- 
nant, procured  a  good-sized  billet  of  wood,  and  proceed- 
ed to  look  for  the  canoe.  But  the  rascal  was  too  sharp 
for  us  again;  anticipating  punishment,  doubtless,  he 
wisely  jumped  into  his  canoe  and  paddled  for  the  shore, 
leaving  us  to  gaze  after  him,  and  laughing  probably  at 
the  fine  trick  he  had  played  us.  This  practice  was  uni- 
versal ;  some  of  the  men  bought  fowls  twice,  some  mats, 
and  other  articles.  We  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the 
example  of  the  rascally  beachcombers  had  not  been 
without  its  influence  upon  these  natives. 

We  were  now  having  very  good  success  in  whaling, 
having  taken  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  barrels  since 
leaving  port.  On  Friday,  February  13th,  we  saw  whales, 
and  lowered  all  the  boats.  Each  boat  soon  fastened  to 
a  separate  whale.  The  one  to  which  the  bow-boat  fast- 
ened appeared  inclined  to  show  fight.  After  running  a 
short  distance,  he  would  turn  and  rush  with  open  jaws 
for  the  boat,  but  the  crew  were  rather  too  quick  for  him, 
and  would  dodge  the  enraged  monster.  Getting  tired 
of. this  play,  he  finally  sounded.  All  hands  were  now 
watching  to  see  where  he  would  "break  water,"  and  at 
the  same  time  hauling  in  slack  line.  Presently  they 
were  all  startled  by  the  appearance  of  a  huge  jaw,  well 
filled  with  teeth,  coming  through  the  bottom  of  the  boat. 
One  of  the  crew,  who  sat  immediately  over  the  spot,  was 
thrown  into  the  air  in  the  shape  of  a  spread  eagle,  and 


210 


LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 


GOING  DOWN  ON  A  SCUOOL. 


came  down  into  tlie  water  not  hurt,  but  badly  frighten- 
ed. The  boat  instantly  filled,  as  a  large  portion  of  her 
bottom  was  gone,  treating  the  whole  crew  to  a  ducking. 
The  whale,  appearing  perfectly  satisfied  with  what  had 
been  done,  left  for  parts  unknown,  with  the  ship's  mark 
clinging  to  him.  Out  of  the  general  conflict  we  secured 
two  whales,  which  we  took  alongside,  and  soon  had  their 
jackets  off  and  into  casks. 

From  here  we  proceeded  to  Pleasant  Island,  and  sight- 
ed it  on  Thursday,  February  19th.  The  captain  struck 
a  bargain  with  one  of  the  chiefs  for  five  thousand  old 
cocoanuts  and  twenty-five  large  hogs,  for  which  he  was 
to  pay  in  muskets,  tobacco,  etc.  On  arriving  at  the  ship 
with  the  hogs  and  cocoanuts,  they  were  found  to  be 
wanting  both  in  quality  and  quantity.  The  captain  re- 
fused to  receive  them  unless  the  chief  was  willing  to  re- 
ceive pay  in  proportion  to  what  he  had  brought.     This 


THE   SOUTH   PACIFIC.  213 

the  copper-colored  rascal  refused  to  do,  and  demanded 
payment  for  the  whole  amount  agreed  to  be  furnished ; 
but  the  captain  was  firm,  and  distinctly  told  him  and  his 
natives  that  he  would  pay  them  for  no  more  than  they 
had  brought.  At  this  they  became  greatly  enraged,  and 
the  captain  ordered  them  to  take  their  property  and 
leave.  This  they  refused  to  do,  declaring  they  would 
not  go  until  they  had  received  pay  for  every  thing  they 
had  agreed  to  bring.  We  now  apprehended  some  dis- 
turbance ;  the  natives  were  getting  excited ;  we  knew 
them  to  be  the  worst  and  most  sanguinary  tribe  on  the 
island ;  the  captain  was  becoming  angry,  and  we  antici- 
pated quite  a  little  time.  As  they  appeared  determined 
not  to  go,  the  captain  ordered  hogs,  natives,  and  cocoa- 
nuts  all  pitched  overboard,  and  we  commenced  with  the 
cocoanuts  first,  throwing  them  into  the  water ;  the  hogs 
soon  followed,  and  the  natives,  anxious  to  save  their 
property,  went  of  their  own  accord,  gladly  saving  us 
from  a  personal  encounter,  in  which  we  felt  that^we 
would  have  fared  the  worse. 

The  next  day  we  spoke  the  "Mohawk,"  of  Nan- 
tucket, Captain  Swain.  The  wife  of  Captain  S.  being 
with  him,  and  being  an  old  friend  of  Mrs.  E.,  our  cap- 
tain's lady,  they  enjoyed  a  very  pleasant  visit  together. 

The  "  Mohawk"  was  recently  from  Pitcairn's  Island, 
well  known  as  the  residence  of  the  descendants  of  the 
"Bounty's"  mutineers.  We  presume  that  the  circum- 
stances of  this  mutiny  may  be  known  to  some  of  our 
readers,  but  we  shall  take  the  liberty  of  relating  it,  as 
related  to  us  by  one  who  lived  upon  the  island.  In 
1790,  the  "Bounty"  was  sent  from  England  to  Otaheite 
to  procure  plants  of  the  bread-fruit  to  introduce  into 
the  West  Indies.  After  leaving  Otaheite,  the  crew,  or 
a  majority  of  them,  headed  by  Mr.  Christian,  the  mate, 
mutinied.  They  placed  the  captain,  who  had  the  repu- 
tation of  being  a  tyrant,  with  some  others,  in  an  open 


214  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

boat,  gave  them  provisions  and  water,  and  cast  them 
adrift.  The  mutineers,  after  cruising  about  some  time, 
made  Pitcairn's  Island.  Here  they  resolved  to  form  a 
settlement,  and,  proceeding  back  to  Otaheite,  procured 
females,  whom  they  took  with  them,  and  then  went  on 
shore,  taking  all  that  was  valuable  from  the  ship.  Aft- 
er doing  this  they  burned  her.  At  first  they  had  much 
trouble,  and  murders  were  committed;  but  finally, 
through  the  influence  of  one  John  Adams,  the  remain- 
der became  Christianized.  He  had  taken  ashore  with 
him  a  Bible  and  Prayer-book.  Much  attention  was 
paid  to  educating  their  children  in  the  tenets  of  the 
Christian  religion,  and  before  his  death  Mr,  A.  had  the 
pleasure  of  seeing  the  colony  well  established,  and  the 
people  prosperous  and  happy.  At  his  death  he  resign- 
ed his  charge  into  the  hands  of  one  John  Moffet,  an  en- 
lightened Christian  man  who  visited  the  island,  and,  be- 
ing struck  with  the  simplicity  and  religious  character  of 
the  inhabitants,  became  so  favorably  impressed  that  he 
decided  to  remain  there.  "  At  this  time,"  said  our  in- 
formant, "  he  lives  there,  administers  the  simple  code  of 
laws  framed  for  their  government  by  Mr.  Adams,  and, 
although  a  very  aged  man,  is  the  umpire  in  all  disputes, 
reads  service  every  Sabbath,  and  is  regarded  as  a  loving 
father  by  all." 

We  also  learned  of  the  death  of  Mrs.  P.,  wife  of  Cap- 
tain P.,  at  this  island.  The  deceased  had  resided  on 
Nantucket,  where  she  was  esteemed  by  all  who  knew 
her  as  one  of  those  kind  ministering  spirits  who  soothe 
the  distressed,  comfort  the  mourner,  and  alleviate  the 
wants  of  the  poor  as  far  as  lies  in  their  power ;  in  short, 
one  of  those  few  persons  who  are  universally  beloved 
by  all.  Her  health  being  very  poor,  it  was  thought  a 
sea- voyage  would  be  beneficial  to  her ;  accordingly,  she 
accompanied  her  husband,  who  was  master  of  a  whaler. 
After  some  months,  perceiving  the  health  of  his  wife  to 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  215 

be  failing,  lie  steered  for  Pitcairn's  Island.  Arriving 
there,  she  went  on  shore  in  excellent  spirits ;  and,  after 
remaining  some  days.  Captain  P.,  finding  that  she  rapid- 
ly regained  her  health,  took  an  affectionate  leave  for  a 
short  cruise.  As  soon  as  the  excitement  connected  with 
coming  on  shore  had  subsided,  she  commenced  failing 
again,  and  in  a  short  time  her  soul  took  its  flight  to  that 
better  and  brighter  world,  where  "  all  is  joy,  and  peace, 
and  love,"  to  receive  the  happy  reward  which  is  prom- 
ised to  those  who  love  God  ;  leaving  as  a  legacy  the  fol- 
lowing lines,  written  while  on  her  death-bed,  her  form 
racked  with  pain,  but  her  soul  calm  and  clear  as  a  sum- 
mer's morn : 

TO  MY  HUSBAND. 

"Farewell,  my  husband  ;  the  cold  hand  of  death, 
So  long  extended,  now  arrests  my  breath ; 
I  feel  the  imperious  mandate,  and  comply, 
For  not  to-day  have  I  just  learned  to  die. 
My  days  of  suffering  and  my  nights  of  pain, 
I  thank  my  God,  have  not  been  sent  in  vain ; 
My  faith  is  strong  ;  in  Jesus  I  confide — 
I  know  that  I  shall  live,  for  He  hath  died. 
Yes,  my  dear  husband ;  though  this  wasted  form 
Must  mingle  with  the  dust  and  feed  the  worm, 
,Yet  when  a  few  short  years  at  most  are  o'er, 
Then  shall  we  meet,  I  trust,  to  part  no  more. 
Then  moderate  your  grief ;  and  though  your  tears 
May  fall,  as  memory  calls  to  mind  past  years, 
Yet  ever  in  your  breast  this  hope  retain, 
"My  transient  loss  is  her  eternal  gain." 
That  you  have  loved  me  with  unfailing  love. 
Our  wedded  life  must  ever  loudly  prove ; 
In  health  or  sickness,  ever  still  the  same — 
To  please,  to  soothe,  and  comfort,  all  your  aim. 
That  you  will  mourn  my  loss  I  feel  assured, 
But  let  that  loss  with  patience  be  endured. 
And  now  to  God,  my  Father  and  my  Friend, 
To  Jesus,  on  whose  merits  I  depend, 
I  would  commend  thee  while  yet  my  strength  remain — 
Farewell,  beloved,  until  we  meet  again." 

Her  body  was  attended  to  its  final  resting-place  with 


216  LIFE   AND   ADVENTURE   IN 

great  solemnity.  The  wild  winds  chant  their  mourn- 
ful requiem  over  her  grave,  accompanied  by  the  never- 
ceasing  roar  of  old  ocean,  as  she  dashes  against  the 
rocky  shores  of  this  lovely  Pacific  isle. 

We  learned  farther  from  the  "  Mohawk"  that  the  na- 
tives of  C^vill's  Island  (an  island  just  to  the  northward 
of  Pitt's  Island)  had  taken  a  California  schooner,  and 
massacred  the  passengers  and  crew.  It  was  supposed 
that  there  were  female  passengers  on  board,-  as  the  na- 
tives were  in  possession  of  sundry  articles  of  ladies'  ap- 
parel. In  trading  with  some  vessel,  they  gave  Califor- 
nia gold  pieces  for  little  or  no  tobacco,  showing  that  they 
place  no  intrinsic  value  upon  gold  or  silver.  These  na- 
tives attempted  to  take  the  "  Lion"  while  she  was  trad- 
ing there,  but  did  not  succeed. 

Whenever  two  whalemen  are  in  company,  and  whales 
are  raised  by  either  ship,  the  boats  from  both  vessels 
lower,  and  all  oil  thus  taken  by  either  is  shared  in  com- 
mon. On  Monday,  March  8th,  while  in  company  with 
the  ^'Mohawk,"  whales  were  raised,  and  down  went 
eight  boats  in  hot  pursuit,  each  boat  seemingly  determ- 
ined on  being  first  boat  fast.  It  was  blowing  quite  fresh 
at  the  time,  and  quite  a  heavy  sea  running.  The  waist- 
boat  from  our  ship  was  the  first  one  to  fasten,  and  no 
sooner  had  they  done  so  than  the  gentleman  whale 
knocked  the  boat  into  quite  a  number  of  pieces,  and 
spilled  them  out,  leaving  them  "  lying  around  loose." 
The  larboard  boat,  happening  to  be  near,  took  the  line 
and  held  on  to  the  whale.  One  of  the  "Mohawk's" 
boats  picked  up  the  scattered  crew  of  the  stove  boat, 
and  brought  them  on  board.  The  larboard  boat  was 
flying  through  the  water  at  about  ten  knots,  "  dead  to 
windward,"  against  a  heavy  head  sea,  which  flew  over 
and  against  her  bows  with  uncommon  force.  She  ap- 
peared actually  plowing  through  it,  the  water  forming  a 
hi^h  bank  of  surf  each  side.     The  boat  soon  lost  sight 


K 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  219 

of  the  ship,  and  they  were  obliged  to  cut  the  line  and  re- 
turn, the  crew  completely  saturated  with  salt  water  and 
exhausted  by  their  labors.  During  this  time  the  bow 
boat  had  killed  a  sixty-barrel  whale,  which  was  soon 
alongside  and  cut  in. 

Although  ancient  and  modern  historians  may  abound 
in  descriptions  of  man's  daring  by  "  flood  and  field,"  and 
the  many  accidents  and  hairbreadth  escapes  which  ac- 
company his  voluntary  exposure  to  a  multitude  of  dan- 
gers, surely  the  recital  of  his  doings  in  the  chase  and 
capture  of  that  leviathan  of  the  deep,  the  sperm  whale, 
can  be  second  to  none  in  the  interest  it  must  excite  in 
every  contemplative  mind.  It  is  not  in  the  field,  jungle, 
or  thick  forest  that  these  hardy  adventurers  seek  their 
prey,  upon  man's  natural  element,  where,  should  any  un- 
toward accident  occur,  assistance  of  some  kind  can  be 
readily  obtained ;  but  on  the  vast  ocean,  at  times  thou- 
sands of  miles  distant  from  any  habitable  land,  where 
they  are  not  only  exposed  to  the  dangers  which  beset 
them  in  their  adventures  with  these  monsters  of  the 
deep,  but  to  others  still  more  terrible,  in  which  the  dread- 
ed typhoon  forms  no  inconsiderable  part ;  or  when,  near 
lands  distant  and  barbarous,  dangerous  reefs,  sunken 
rocks,  and  relentless  savages  may  surround  them  on 
every  side,  requiring  all  the  moral  and  physical  energy 
of  which  our  nature  is  possessed  to  escape  the  mani- 
fold dangers  which  beset  them,  but  which  the  whaleman 
looks  upon  without  dread,  passing  among  them  in  his 
gallant  bark,  and  bearing  off"  in  triumph  the  valuable 
giant  of  the  ocean. 

Even  in  these  latitudes,  the  equatorial,  we  often  ex- 
perience heavy,  and  sometimes  terrible  gales  of  wind. 
On  Wednesday,  March  10th,  having  just  cleared  our 
decks  from  the  last  "  fare  of  oil,"  a  heavy  gale  set  in 
from  the  westward,  which  continued  for  four  days,  with 
scarcely  a  moment's  interruption.     The  "  Mohawk"  lost 


222  LIFE   AND   ADVENTURE   IN 


CHAPTER  XXn. 

Island  of  Rota. — Appearance. — Streets  and  Houses. — Inhabitants. — 
Governor. — Guam. — Umata  Bay. — Procuring  Water. — Marisa. — Its 
Appearance. — Port  of  Apia. — Fort. — Liberty. — A  splendid  Ride. — 
Boarding-houses. — Police. — Reflections. — Inhabitants. — Choppers. — 
A  cowardly  Murder. — Bombardment  of  the  Palace. — Attend  Mass. 
— Toddy.— Streets. — Houses. — Palace. — Calaboose. — Cock-fighting. 
— Seminary. — Insurrection  of  Prisoners. — Females. — Take  a  Stroll. 
— Ruins. — Resers-oir. — Tobacco. — Betel  Nut. — Captain  Anderson. — 
Rebellion. — Jollification. — A  novel  Mode  of  choosing  a  Governor. — 
Congratulations.  — Parade. — Aguadente.  — C aroline  Islanders.  — Last 
Day  on  Shore.  —  Arguing  the  Point.  —  Disarming  the  Guard.  — 
"Where  is  my  Musket?" — Visit  to  the  Fort. — Strange  Doings. — 
Ready  for  Sea. 

With  a  strong  breeze  and  all  sail  out,  we  "were  not 
long  in  reaching  the  Ladrone  Islands.  Tuesday,  April 
6th,  at  daylight,  saw  the  island  of  Rota,  bearing  west 
half  north,  distant  thirty  miles.  In  the  afternoon,  in 
company  with  a  boat  from  the  "  Mohawk,"  we  went  on 
shore  and  procured  a  few  hogs,  yams,  and  fruit.  This 
island  is  one  of  the  most  magnificent  in  appearance  from 
the  sea  that  we  have  yet  seen.  The  land  is  moderately 
high,  and  thickly  covered  with  evergreen  foliage,  with 
an  occasional  opening,  showing  the  marks  of  cultivation. 
The  town  is  built  on  a  level  spot  of  ground,  with  great 
regularity  and  neatness ;  the  houses  are  all  whitewashed 
or  painted,  and  the  streets  kept  clean.  The  inhabitants 
are  very  courteous  and  friendly,  and  evince  quite  a  de- 
gree of  civilization.  They  have  a  fine-looking  church 
here,  Roman  Catholic,  of  course,  which  is  built  of  stone, 
and  looks  much  better  on  the  outside  than  the  inside. 
The  governor  received  the  captain,  dressed  in  full  uni- 
form.    He  is  a  tall,  noble-looking  Spaniard,  but  the 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  223 

dress  appeared  as  if  it  were  made  for  some  more  bulky 
personage ;  perhaps  he  wore  it  ex-officio.  One  of  the 
boys  exclaimed,  on  seeing  him,  "The  old  governor's 
clothes  set  like  a  purser's  shirt  on  a  handspike."  His 
palace,  as  they  term  it,  is  a  very  comfortable-looking 
stone  building,  the  calaboose  adjoining  it. 

The  next  morning  we  were  close  in  to  the  island  of 
Guam.  We  took  a  pilot  and  proceeded  to  Umata  Bay, 
where  we  dropped  anchor  about  three  P.M.  Umata 
Bay  is  the  watering-place  for  all  whalers  who  refit  at 
Guam,  as  it  is  the  only  point  on  the  island  where  fresh 
water  can  be  readily  obtained.  It  is  called  a  bay,  but 
it  is  merely  a  roadstead,  as  ships  anchoring  here  are  ex- 
posed to  the  sea  in  all  directions  except  the  eastward. 

Both  ships'  companies  were  at  it  next  morning  raft- 
ing water,  and  made  the  old  hills  resound  to  the  chorus 
of  the  merry  song  as  they  bent  back  to  the  tugging  oar. 

We  took  the  opportunity  of  visiting  the  town  of  Ma- 
risa,  situated  three  miles  below  Umata  Bay,  and  found 
a  very  pretty  village.  The  houses  are  all  on  one  street, 
which  is  very  long.  One  peculiarity  we  could  not  but 
notice:  the  street  was  swept  very  clean,  and  we  ob- 
served many  Spaniards  of  both  sexes  engaged  in  sweep- 
ing it,  probably  paying  the  penalty  of  breaking  some  law. 
The  church  here  is  a  fine  edifice,  and  contains  two  large 
bells,  which  ring  out  merrily  for  vespers.  Although 
the  governor  has  his  permanent  residence  at  Guam,  yet 
he  occasionally  leaves  the  "  heat  and  turmoil  of  city 
life,"  and,  taking  his  family  for  a  visit  to  the  "  country," 
spends  a  week  or  so  in  this  village,  where  he  has  a  large 
palace.  After  rambling  around  to  our  entire  satisfac- 
tion, and  spending  the  day  very  pleasantly,  we  returned 
with  a  fine  breeze,  the  boat  fairly  flying  through  the 
water.  We  felt  quite  fatigued  in  consequence  of  our 
jaunt,  but,  after  a  refreshing  rest,  awoke  next  morning 
ready  for  another  day's  tramp. 


224  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

We  improved  the  day  in  visiting  the  town  of  Umata 
Bay,  and  a  short  ramble  in  the  mountains  back.  The 
village  differed  but  little  from  that  of  Marisa :  the  same 
long  street,  swept  clean;  the  same  white  houses;  and, 
were  it  not  for  the  absence  of  the  palace  and  the  differ- 
ence in  the  country  adjoining,  one  would  almost  imagine 
himself  in  the  same  village. 

At  two  P.M.  on  Saturday,  April  10th,  we  took  on 
board  the  last  of  five  hundred  barrels  of  water,  hove  up 
the  anchor  with  a  will,  and  steered  for  the  port  of  Apia. 
We  arrived  here  the  next  morning,  where  we  cast  an- 
chor. This  is  the  anchorage,  and  the  only  safe  one,  for 
ships  refitting  at  Guam,  and  is  situated  seven  miles  from 
the  town  or  village  of  Guam,  which  is  the  capital  of  the 
group.  The  port  of  Apia  is  a  fine  bay,  situated  on  the 
west  side  of  the  island,  protected  from  the  sea  by  a  reef 
running  across,  with  an  entrance  of  about  half  a  mile  in 
width.  This  island,  like  nearly  all  in  the  Pacific,  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  coral  reef.  In  the  centre  of  the  bay  is  a 
small  island,  on  which  is  a  fine-looking  fort,  with  five  or 
six  guns  mounted  for  the  protection  of  the  commerce 
of  the  island.  We  found  several  ships  lying  at  anchor 
here,  from  some  of  which  we  obtained  quite  late  news 
from  home. 

It  is  customary  for  ships  that  refit  here  to  allow  their 
men  to  go  on  shore  and  remain  a  week  or  ten  days  at  a 
time,  as  the  distance  is  so  great — seven  miles  from  town 
— that  one  day's  liberty  at  a  time  would  be  worth  but 
little.  Accordingly,  on  Monday,  April  12th,  the  star- 
board watch  were  given  a  week's  liberty,  while  the  oth- 
er watch  remained  on  board  to  paint  ship.  On  landing, 
what  was  our  surprise  to  see  a  large  number  of  cows 
standing  near,  and,  to  our  astonishment,  we  were  inform- 
ed that  they  were  there  for  our  accommodation,  if  we 
chose.  For  the  sum  of  fifty  cents  we  could  enjoy  a  fine 
horseback  ride  on  a  cow  "  up  to  town."     As  there  were 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  225 

men  from  four  ships  going  in  company  (nearly  sixty  of 
us),  we  all  entered  into  the  spirit  of  the  affair,  and  each 
man  selected  his  "  horned  beast"  and  mounted. 

And  now  ensued  a  scene  that  beggars  description. 
Leather  thongs  were  made  fast  to  the  horns  for  the  rider 
to  hold  on  by,  and  the  Spaniard,  who  led  off  on  a  noble 
animal,  seeing  all  was  ready,  shouted  "Arrival"  and 
away  he  went  on  the  full  run,  the  others  following ;  the 
men  having  no  saddles,  some  were  rolling  from  side  to 
side,  some  had  seated  themselves  "  wrong-end  first,"  and 
all,  instead  of  hanging  on  to  the  thongs,  reach  forward, 
and,  grasping  the  horns,  hang  on  like  grim  death ;  the 
cows,  with  their  heads  stretched  forward  to  the  utmost, 
their  bells  jingling,  each  one  bellowing  and  snorting, 
and  their  riders,  instead  of  sitting  upright,  stretched  in 
a  horizontal  position,  their  legs  extended,  and  yelling 
like  so  many  wild  Indians ;  the  old  Spaniard  shouting 
and  singing  in  Spanish,  and  the  whole  cavalcade  upon 
the  full  run — all  this  produced  one  of  the  wildest  scenes 
imaginable.  As  the  procession  entered  the  town,  Span- 
iards of  both  sexes,  men,  women,  and  children,  rushed 
to  the  street,  shouting  and  laughing  at  the  "Ameri- 
canos." The  old  Spaniard  kept  on,  and,  after  having 
made  the  circuit  of  the  town,  brought  up  at  the  "Grand 
Plaza"  in  front  of  the  governor's  palace,  the  poor  riders 
being  almost  insensible  from  th6  continual  and  deafen- 
ing din  that  surrounded  them. 

They  halted  here,  and  all  hands  joyfully  dismounted; 
the  Spaniards  crowded  around  to  congratulate  them  on 
their  good  riding^  but,  paying  no  attention  to  them,  they 
"  vamosed^''  in  search  of  a  boarding-house.  By  the  laws 
of  the  island,  every  white  man  or  foreigner  must  have  a 
boarding-house,  and  be  within  doors  at  eight  P.M.  This 
is  necessary,  that  good  order  may  be  preserved  in  the 
night-time,  and  tends  to  prevent  many  disgraceful  scenes 
that  would  otherwise  occur. 

K2 


226  LIFE   AND  ADVENTURE   IN 

The  police  here  are  very  vigilant.  Every  person  who 
keeps  a  boarding-house  is  compelled  to  report  the  names 
of  his  boarders,  and  about  eight  P.M.  the  captain  of  the 
pohce  goes  around  to  see  if  all  are  in.  If  any  are  absent 
from  their  respective  houses,  they  are  found  and  march- 
ed home ;  and  should  they  be  saucy,  or  show  any  beUig- 
erent  spirit,  off  they  go  to  the  calaboose.  This  also 
tends  to  prevent  desertions,  as  the  governor  allows  no 
white  man  to  remain  on  the  island  unless  sick.  There 
are  a  few  old  residents  here  who  are  exceptions,  they 
being  citizens. 

Loving  an  early  morning  walk,  five  A.M.  the  next  day 
after  our  arrival  on  shore  found  us  "  up  and  dressed," 
and  out.  It  was  truly  a  lovely  morning,  the  sun  shin- 
ing brightly,  birds  singing  sweetly,  and  the  church  bells 
ringing  merrily.  As  we  walked  along  the  banks  of  a 
quiet  stream,  how  did  these  sounds  bring  up  in  our 
minds  similar  scenes  at  home — our  own  peaceful  stream, 
the  feathery  songsters,  and  the  old  church  bells.  But 
the  roar  of  the  surf  dashing  over  the  breakers  reminded 
us  that  many,  many  miles  of  "  deep  blue  sea"  separated 
us  from  our  homes,  and  that  many  days  must  pass  ere 
we  could  again  live  over  those  happy  days,  and  our 
present  musings  be  realized. 

The  inhabitants  of  this  islana  are  of  the  Malay  race, 
intermixed  with  the  Spaniards.  They  are  generally 
very  kind  and  hospitable  to  the  stranger,  often  inviting 
him  to  their  houses,  and  setting  before  him  refresh- 
ments, fruits,  etc. ;  but  if  offended,  they  are  revengeful 
to  a  sanguinary  degree.  Many  of  them  carry  short, 
thick  swords,  called  "  choppers,"  by  their  sides,  which 
they  use  for  clearing  their  small  farms  and  other  pur- 
poses. With  these  choppers  they  frequently  commit 
horrible  outrages,  inflicting,  in  the  heat  of  passion,  terri- 
ble wounds  upon  each  other,  or  upon  any  one  who  may 
chance  to  give  them  cause  for  affront,  fancied  or  real. 


THE  SOUTH   PACIFIC.  227 

It  was  at  this  island  that  Captain  Stevens,  master  of 
an  English  whaler,  was  murdered  a  few  years  since,  in 
a  cowardly  and  brutal  manner.  He  was  set  upon  by  a 
gang  of  desperadoes,  under  direction  of  the  then  gov- 
ernor, with  whom  Captain  S.  had  had  some  difficulty. 
The  miscreants  stole  into  his  room  and  took  his  pistols, 
which  were  lying  on  the  table,  and,  on  going  out  to  as- 
certain who  had  committed  the  theft,  he  was  attacked 
and  fairly  cut  to  pieces,  the  wretches  not  desisting  until 
they  had  murdered  him.  It  is  reported  that  the  govern- 
or was  punished  by  his  0"V7n  government  and  removed 
from  the  island. 

An  amusing  incident  occurred  a  few  years  ago,  illus- 
trating the  bravery  of  the  governor  and  the  army.  The 
master  of  an  American  whaler,  being  ready  for  sea,  and 
some  of  his  men  being  imprisoned  in  the  calaboose  for 
some  trifling  breach  of  the  laws,  went  to  the  governor 
and  demanded  his  men,  stating  that  he  was  ready  for 
sea,  and  should  sail  at  four  P.M.  His  excellency  replied 
that  he  could  not  have  them  unless  he  paid  the  fine  im- 
posed, which  was  a  very  large  amount.  The  captain, 
thinking,  from  the  large  amount  imposed  for  so  slight  a 
breach  committed,  it  a  mere  plan  to  extort  money  from 
him,  replied  that  he  would  pay  no  money  to  the  gov- 
ernor, whereupon  the  latter  replied  that  "he  could  not 
have  his  men."  The  captain  took  his  leave,  saying  that 
if  the  men  were  not  on  board  at  four  P.M.,  he,  the  gov- 
ernor, must  suffer  the  consequences.  He  now  proceed- 
ed to  his  ship,  weighed  anchor,  left  the  harbor,  and  at 
four  P.M.  was  opposite  the  town.  When  within  about 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  shore,  and  directly  opposite 
the  palace,  he  hauled  aback  his  main-yard,  ran  up  the 
stars  and  stripes,  and  commenced  to  bombard  the  palace 
with  one  six-pounder,  which  was  all  the  cannon  he  had 
on  board.  Almost  within  range  of  the  palace,  and  situ- 
ated at  the  water's  edge,  was  a  stone  fort  with  several 


228  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE   IN 

guns  mounted.  The  brave  commander  did  not  see  fit 
to  return  the  fire,  when  he  might  have  blown  the  ship 
to  atoms.  After  half  a  dozen  shots  had  been  fired,  a 
flag  of  truce  was  seen  on  the  fort.  He  ceased  firing, 
and  a  boat  was  soon  seen  approaching  the  ship  contain- 
ing his  men  and  a  file  of  soldiers,  the  commandant  of 
whom  gave  him  the  compliments  of  the  governor,  who, 
he  said,  had  sent  his  men,  and  requested  him  to  cease 
firing,  as  one  shot  had  taken  effect  in  the  palace,  and  ac- 
tually lodged  in  his  private  room.  The  captain  took 
his  men  and  departed.  The  governor  still  preserves  the 
ball,  and  frequently  exhibits  it  to  visitors  as  the  one  the 
Yankee  skipper  fired  at  him. 

We  had  received  an  invitation  to  attend  mass  with 
some  of  our  Spanish  friends,  and,  arousing  ourselves  at 
four  A.M.  on  Wednesday,  April  14th,  we  proceeded  to 
the  church.  It  is  a  fine- looking  stone  building,  very 
large  and  massive,  with  a  chime  of  bells  in  its  tower. 
On  entering,  we  found  it  well  lighted,  and  filled  with 
Spaniards  of  both  sexes.  It  is  beautifully  furnished  in- 
side, many  of  the  ornaments  and  holy  vessels  being  of 
gold  and  silver.  The  services  were  solemn  and  im- 
pressive, and,  although  they  worshiped  in  a  difierent 
manner  from  us,  yet  we  could  not  but  feel  a  devotional 
sentiment  within  us  as  we  listened  to  the  beautiful  chant, 
and  witnessed  the  devout  worshipers  at  their  devotions. 
It  seemed  to  bring  us  nearer  to  the  land  of  Christianity, 
accustomed  as  we  had  been,  for  months  past,  to  attend 
no  place  of  public  worship. 

On  arriving  at  our  boarding-house  after  mass,  we 
found  some  delicious  "  toddy"  awaiting  us.  This,  when 
fresh  from  the  tree,  is  a  palatable  and  pleasant  drink, 
and  is  highly  beneficial  to  a  person  coming  ashore  after 
a  long  cruise  on  salt  water,  and  living  mostly  on  salt 
provisions.  It  is  procured  by  a  person  called  a  "  toddy- 
cutter,"  who  ascends  to  the  top  of  a  cocoanut-tree  in  the 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  229 

shade  of  the  evening,  and  cuts  a  number  of  notches  at 
the  root  of  one  of  the  limbs,  hanging  a  long  piece  of 
bamboo  underneath,  which  in  the  morning  is  found  fill- 
ed with  the  delicious  beverage.  After  collecting  his 
several  bamboo  vessels,  he  proceeds  to  distribute  them 
at  the  different  boarding-houses,  supplying  all  who  may 
wish  with  this  excellent  beverage.  It  is  needless  to  say 
that  the  "  toddy-cutter"  was  very  liberally  patronized 
while  so  many  seamen  were  on  shore.  There  are  no  in- 
toxicating qualities  in  the  toddy,  no  more  than  in  a  glass 
of  soda  or  lemonade. 

The  streets  of  Guam  are  very  wide  and  straight,  and 
are  kept  clean.  The  houses  are  built  compactly  of  wood 
and  stone ;  those  built  of  wood,  which  comprise  the  great- 
er number,  are  elevated  on  frame-work  and  posts  four 
or  five  feet  above  the  ground.  They  are  mostly  of  one 
story,  painted  white,  and  are  neat  and  orderly  in  appear- 
ance. The  stone  houses  are  built  in  a  substantial  man- 
ner, and  look  very  solid  and  comfortable.  The  govern- 
or's palace  is  a  long  stone  building  of  two  stories,  with 
nothing  remarkable  about  it  to  indicate  it  as  the  palace 
of  the  governor  of  the  great  island  of  Guam.  The  west 
end  of  it  joins  the  calaboose,  which  is  a  solid  stone  build- 
ing of  one  story,  and  they  are  both  guarded  by  sentries. 
Immediately  in  front  of  both  buildings  is  the  "Grand 
Plaza,"  in  the  centre  of  which  is  the  cock-pit. 

The  inhabitants  here  delight  in  the  cruel  exhibition 
of  cock-fighting,  and  manifest  great  interest  in  the  com- 
bats. Not  being  satisfied  with  seeing  these  noble  fowls 
destroy  each  other  with  the  weapons  which  nature  has 
given  them,  they  place  on  them  steel  spurs  shaped  sim- 
ilar to  a  scythe,  which  are  made  very  sharp.  Armed 
with  these  destructive  weapons,  the  contest  is  soon  de- 
cided, as  the  first  blow  frequently  kills  the  unlucky  bird. 
These  exhibitions  always  take  place  on  the  Sabbath,  as 
that  is  their  grand  gala  day.     At  the  time  appointed 


230  LIFE   AND   ADVENTUEE   IN 

the  arena  is  opened,  a  ring  made,  and  no  person  allowed 
inside  tlie  rope  but  the  judges  and  owners  of  the  cocks. 
The  space  around  is  completely  thronged  with  old,  mid- 
dle-aged, and  young  men,  who  enter  into  this  cruel  sport 
with  the  greatest  animation.  Even  the  governor  is  al- 
ways present,  witnessing  the  combats,  and  betting  as  free- 
ly as  any  one.  The  fowls  are  large,  noble-looking  ani- 
mals, of  the  Malay  breed,  and  upon  two  being  brought 
into  the  ring,  the  betting  commences  with  great  excite- 
ment, from  a  rial  to  a  dollar,  and  more,  according  to  the 
wealth  of  the  parties.  One  Spaniard  holds  up  his  finger, 
and  shouts  out  the  name  of  the  fowl  he  chooses  to  bet 
on ;  another,  seeing  him,  raises  his  in  the  same  manner, 
and  names  his  favorite;  and  so  on  around  the  ring. 
The  signal  is  given,  and  the  cocks,  being  let  loose,  fly  at 
each  other,  and,  as  we  before  remarked,  the  combat  is 
soon  terminated.  Those  who  have  lost  now  pay  over 
the  stakes,  and  two  more  fowls  are  entered.  This  con- 
tinues through  the  greater  portion  of  the  afternoon,  and 
it  is  surprising  to  see  the  large  quantity  of  noble-looking 
fowls  slain. 

On  the  east  side  of  the  Plaza  is  a  fine-looking  stone 
building  used  as  a  seminary,  which  is  supported  by  the 
Church,  for  the  purpose  of  educating  those  who  can  not 
afford  to  attend  private  schools,  and  of  protecting  and 
educating  the  orphan.  This  institution  is  the  pride  of 
the  island,  and  may  well  be  considered  as  such,  for  it  is 
productive  of  great  and  lasting  benefit.  The  scholars 
manifest  much  interest  in  their  studies,  and  their  be- 
havior and  accomplishments  would  compare  favorably 
with  many  similar  institutions  in  our  own  land,  where 
the  opportunities  of  a  good  education  are  so  general. 

A  few  months  since  the  prisoners  confined  in  the  cala- 
boose, about  one  hundred  in  number,  attempted  to  take 
the  palace.  Their  plans  were  all  laid ;  a  part  were  to 
attack  in  front,  the  remainder  in  the  rear.     The  object 


THE  SOUTH   PACIFIC.  231 

was  to  obtain  possession  of  tlie  arms  and  ammunition 
contained  in  the  palace,  and  then  to  make  an  attempt  to 
capture  the  island.  The  plot  was  discovered,  however, 
just  in  time  to  frustrate  it ;  and,  after  some  severe  fight- 
ing, during  which  about  twenty-five  were  killed,  the  re- 
mainder were  secured,  and  sent  to  Manilla  for  trial,  and 
were  there  hung. 

While  walking  through  the  town  one  evening,  we 
heard  the  sound  of  music  issuing  from  a  building  near 
by.  On  presenting  ourselves  at  the  door,  we  were  in- 
vited in,  and  found  the  room  filled  with  females,  with 
but  one  or  two  exceptions.  It  was  the  hour  of  vespers. 
At  one  end  of  thQ  room  was  the  image  of  the  Virgin 
Mary  and  the  Crucifixion.  Those  chanting  were  on 
their  knees,  with  their  hands  crossed  on  their  breasts, 
the  very  picture  of  humility  and  meekness.  As  their 
sweet  voices  mingled  in  the  beautiful  chant  of  "  J.t;e, 
Sanctissirna,^^  we  could  not  but  be  struck  with  the  so- 
lemnity and  sublimity  of  the  scene.  If  woman  be  all 
she  is  represented  to  "be,  lively,  charming,  and  angelic, 
she  is  certainly  more  than  this  when  engaged  in  offering 
devotion  to  Almighty  God,  and  imploring  the  aid  of  the 
divine  Savior.  The  females  of  Guam  are  remarkably 
fair-looking :  keen  black  eyes,  long,  flowing  black  hair, 
smooth  complexion,  and  possessed  of  a  robust  and  well- 
rounded  form ;  their  step  light  and  elastic,  and  very 
graceful  in  their  movements.  One  of  these  dark-eyed 
beauties  in  the  attitude  of  prayer,  her  hands  beseeching- 
ly clasped,  her  loose  hair  flowing  luxuriantly  around  her 
well-rounded  shoulders,  and  her  countenance  expressive 
of  meekness  and  innocence,  would  form  a  model  for  the 
chisel  of  a  Powers. 

After  vespers  we  passed  a  very  pleasant  evening  with 
these  lively,  chatting  beauties,  from  whom  we  learned 
much  of  interest  in  regard  to  the  island ;  and  we  must 
confess  to  a  slight  feeling  of  regret  when  we  heard  the 


232  LIFE  AND   ADVENTURE   IN 

bells  peal  forth  the  hour  of  eight,  compelling  us  to  say 
to  them  "  Adios.^^ 

The  next  day  we  had  planned  for  a  stroll  in  the  coun- 
try round,  and  before  6  A.M.  were  on  our  way,  with  two 
Spanish  lads  about  eighteen  years  of  age  as  guides.  "We 
passed  several  farms  on  our  route,  and,  from  appear- 
ances, we  should  judge  the  occupants  to  be  well  skilled 
in  agriculture.  About  five  miles  northeast  of  the  town 
we  came  to  the  ruins  of  a  large  stone  building,  which, 
our  guides  informed  us,  were  the  remains  of  a  monas- 
tery, and  built,  as  they  said,  "  very  many  year  ago." 
On  examining  an  arch  or  gateway,  we  found  the  key- 
stone marked  1636.  The  stones  appeared  regularly 
hewn  and  well  fitted.  It  would  seem  from  this  that  the 
art  of  masonry  was  understood  here  more  than  two  hund- 
red years  ago,  as  this  building  must  have  been  erected 
under  the  supervision  of  a  master  mason,  well-skilled  in 
the  use  of  the  square,  level,  plumb,  and  trowel. 

Near  this  pile  of  ruins  is  a  large  stone  reservoir,  about 
thirty  feet  in  length,  twenty -five  in  width,  and  thirty  to 
forty  in  depth.  At  this  time  it  had  about  three  feet 
depth  of  water  in  it.  This  reservoir  was  probably  built 
at  the  same  time  as  the  monastery,  as  our  guide  said,  on 
asking  him  when  it  was  built,  "  Tiempo  Casa  Dios'''  (at 
the  time  of  the  building  of  the  house  of  God). 

After  walking  some  distance  farther,  nothing  of  in- 
terest presenting  itself,  we  set  out  on  our  return'.  "When 
within  about  one  mile  of  town,  we  noticed  several  large 
sheds  filled  with  tobacco,  which  is  grown  here  in  large 
quantities.  The  inhabitants,  however,  do  not  under- 
stand manufacturing  it  otherwise  than  into  cigars.  All 
smoke  here — men,  women,  and  children  ;  and  we  must 
confess  that  it  detracts  somewhat  from  the  beauty  of  a 
young  lady  to  see  her  promenading  the  street  with  a 
huge  cigar  in  her  mouth,  puffing  away  most  lustily ;  but 
this  spectacle  is  so  common  here  that  one  soon  becomes 
accustomed  to  it. 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC,  233 

The  betel-nut  is  chewed  by  "  all  hands,"  giving  a  red- 
dish cast  to  the  teeth,  of  which  they  all  seem  very 
proud.  The  young  Ladrone  beauty  prides  herself  as 
much  on  the  bright-red  appearance  of  her  teeth  as  the 
American  ladies  do  on  the  pearly  whiteness  of  theirs. 

On  arriving  at  our  boarding-house  we  found  our- 
selves covered  with  mud,  and  possessed  of  alarming  ap- 
petites. It  is  useless  to  add  that  we  did  ample  justice 
to  the  fine  dish  of  curried  chickens,  with  all  the  "fixins 
to  match,"  which  was  set  before  us. 

Not  forgetting  our  old  friend.  Captain  Anderson,  we 
called  upon  him  next  day,  Friday,  April  16th,  and  learn- 
ed some  very  interesting  and  amusing  facts  connected 
with  the  history  of  the  island,  one  of  which  we  will  re- 
late as  he  gave  it  to  us:  Some  years  ago  Captain  A. 
and  a  few  more  English  residents  contrived  a  plan  to 
make  themselves  possessors  of  the  island.  They  secret- 
ly worked,  step  by  step,  at  the  same  time  insinuating 
themselves  into  the  good  graces  of  the  governor.  Their 
plans  worked  to  a  charm,  and,  when  they  were  fully 
matured,  they  quietly  took  possession  of  the  palace,  the 
governor  having  been  made,  as  Captain  A.  expressed  it, 
"as  drunk  as  a  boiled  owl."  As  they  now  had  pos- 
session of  all  the  arms  and  ammunition,  it  was  an  easy 
matter  to  subdue  the  natives,  which  they  did  in  short 
order,  without  loss  of  life  on  either  side,  covering  them- 
selves with  glory.  As  a  matter  of  course,  the  new  lords 
and  masters  must  have  a  glorious  jollification  over  the 
affair,  and  at  the  same  time  agree  on  a  governor.  This 
latter,  however,  proved  no  easy  task,  as  all  were  equally 
anxious  to  "serve  their  country"  in  being  chief  digni- 
tary of  the  island.  After  consulting  and  debating  some 
hours,  and  finding  they  were  no  nearer  a  decision  than 
at  first,  they  decided  to  have  a  spree,  and  whoever  should 
remain  sober  the  longest,  and  see  the  others  all  laid  out, 
should  be  the  honorable  governor.     Accordingly,  at  it 


234  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

they  went ;  bottle  after  bottle  disappeared ;  one  by  one 
ttey  voluntarily  relinquisbed  their  seats  and  quietly 
rolled  under  the  table.  After  a  short  time  no  one  re- 
mained in  his  seat  but  Captain  A.,  and  he,  feeling  elated 
at  his  success,  drank  a  few  bumpers  to  "  Captain  An- 
derson, the  fature  governor  of  the  distinguished  island 
of  Guam."  But,  as  he  said,  "  he  was  born  under  an  un- 
lucky star."  So  it  proved,  as  the  bumpers  he  drank  to 
his  own  good  health  keeled  him  over,  and  he  took  his 
place  among  his  comrades. 

The  Spaniards,  who  had  been  watching  these  pro- 
ceedings with  no  small  degree  of  interest,  seeing  how 
matters  stood,  and  the  would-be  governors  gloriously 
drunk,  very  adroitly  bound  them  hand  and  foot.  The 
dethroned  governor  was,  of  course,  immediately  rein- 
stated, and  the  next  day  these  noble  spirits  were  arraign- 
ed for  trial.  Being  convicted  of  treason,  they  were  sen- 
tenced to  be  placed  on  a  raft,  taken  out  to  sea,  and  then 
cast  loose,  leaving  them  at  the  mercy  of  the  winds  and 
waves.  This  was  accordingly  done ;  and,  after  drifting 
about  several  days,  they  were  safely  landed  on  the  isl- 
and of  Tinian  (one  of  the  group.)  Here  they  resided 
some  time ;  finally,  expressing  their  sorrow  for  what 
they  had  done,  the  governor  pardoned  them,  and  per- 
mitted them  to  make  Guam  their  future  residence,  on 
swearing  allegiance  to  the  government  and  promising 
to  be  true  and  loyal  citizens. 

The  week  was  now  closed  which  had  been  given  to 
one  watch  from  each  ship  for  liberty.  Accordingly, 
they  returned  to  their  respective  ships,  and  the  other 
watches  came  on  shore — about  the  same  number  of  men. 
They  arrived  in  due  form  and  procession ;  and,  as  we 
could  now  look  on  and  witness  the  performance,  we  en- 
joyed the  scene  with  a  hearty  good-will.  As  soon  as 
they  dismounted,  we  were  among  the  first  to  offer  our 
congratulations  on  their  grand  and  imposing  entree. 


THE  SOUTH   PACIFIC.  235 

How  natural  for  men,  on  finding  themselves  taken  in 
and  done  for,  to  watch  and  enjoy  seeing  others  victim- 
ized. Thus  it  was  in  this  case ;  all  would  speak  highly 
of  their  merry  ride,  particularly  when  in  the  presence 
of  the  uninitiated. 

As  we  before  remarked,  Sunday  is  the  grand  gala  day 
of  the  inhabitants  here.  Among  other  things,  we  wit- 
nessed a  parade  and  review  of  the  army  stationed  here 
by  the  governor,  numbering,  officers,  high  privates  and 
all,  twenty -five.  They  do  duty  as  policemen  as  well  as 
soldiers.  They  were  not  a  very  formidable-looking 
body  of  men ;  some  were  dressed  in  white,  and  some  in 
blue,  with  fancifully-decorated  cloth  caps.  A  portion 
of  them  were  armed  with  muskets,  the  remainder  with 
spears.  However,  they  performed  their  evolutions  very 
well,  although  we  do  not  believe  their  commander  ever 
studied  ScotCs  Tactics. 

At  the  close  of  the  morning  service  every  one  appear- 
ed preparing  for  the  afternoon  sports.  At  an  early  hour 
the  space  around  the  cock-pit  was  crowded  with  young 
and  old,  anxiously  awaiting  the  sport,  as  they  term  it, 
to  commence.  At  two  o'clock  the  fighting  began  be- 
tween two  noble-looking  fowls.  The  betting  ran  high, 
but  the  battle  was  soon  decided  by  one  of  the  cocks  re- 
ceiving a  home-thrust  that  pierced  his  heart.  The  fight- 
ing now  continued  in  this  manner  until  about  thirty 
were  slain.  In  the  evening  nearly  eveiy  house  was 
thrown  open  to  receive  calls  from  "Americanos"  and 
others,  who  were  entertained  with  music  and  refresh- 
ments. 

A  kind  of  liquor  called  "  aguadente"  is  distilled  here, 
very  intoxicating  in  its  qualities,  yet  the  effects  are  not 
as  bad  as  are  those  of  the  poisonous  liquors  sold  in  this 
country.  We  expected  to  see  the  "Americanos"  near- 
ly all  drunk  on  this  day,  as  we  knew  it  would  circulate 
pretty  freely ;  but  to  their  credit  be  it  said,  not  one  of 


236  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

them  became  intoxicated.  They  all  .seemed  to  shun  it, 
whether  it  was  because  it  was  the  Sabbath,  or  for  what 
reason  we  know  not,  but  "  all  hands"  continued  sober 
through  the  day. 

The  following  morning,  on  strolling  along  the  beach, 
we  found  several  "  Caroline  Island"  canoes  had  arrived 
during  the  night.  These  canoes  are  about  forty  feet  in 
length  and  six  feet  beam,  quite  deep,  and  will  carry 
from  fifteen  to  twenty  tons.  They  are  provided  with 
an  extensive  outrigger  to  prevent  their  capsizing,  and 
carry  a  large  mat  sail.  When  under  full  sail  in  a  strong 
breeze,  being  very  sharp  in  their  construction,  they  skim 
along  over  the  water  with  amazing  velocity.  The  na- 
tives are  large,  robust  fellows,  with  no  clothing  but  the 
lappa,  or  a  fine  mat  worn  across  the  shoulders  in  the  form 
of  a  scarf.  Each  canoe  carries  one  family,  and  they  ap- 
pear to  live  in  a  very  peaceable  and  happy  manner  on 
board  their  diminutive  craft.  Their  island  homes  are 
about  four  degrees  to  the  southward.  On  inquiring  of 
them  through  a  Spaniard,  as  interpreter,  how  they  found 
the  island,  they  replied,  pointing  upward,  "Stars  by 
night,  sun  by  day."  Their  cargo  consists  of  hats,  mats, 
and  shells.  In  return,  they  take  tobacco,  pipes,  calico, 
and  aguadente.  These  canoes  ply  regularly  between 
the  Caroline  Islands  and  Guam. 

The  time  had  now  come  for  all  hands  to  return  on 
board.  Another  week  had  flown,  and  we  must  leave 
the  land  for  the  water  again.  But  the  boys  wished  to 
have  a  "  grand  time"  before  leaving,  and  the  last  day^ 
each  one  appeared  to  be  determined  to  make  the  most 
of  Long  Manuel,  our  Portugee,  appeared  very  much 
troubled  by  the  width  of  the  various  streets  he  was  at- 
tempting to  explore,  while  our  Kanakas  were  singing 
their  native  songs  with  considerable  mirth  and  high-lax- 
ity.  In  the  evening  they  all  assembled  for  a  dance  at 
one  boarding-house  at  an  early  hour.    They  had  secured 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  237 

the  services  of  four  Spaniards  as  fiddlers,  and  on  their 
arrival  at  it  they  went.  Eight  o'clock  came,  and  with 
it  also  came  the  chief  of  police,  ordering  them  to  cease 
dancing,  stop  their  noise,  and  disperse.  On  hearing  this, 
Tom  "W.,  the  ship's  wag,  who  had  "  imbibed"  pretty 
freely,  proceeded  to  "  argue  the  point"  with  the  police- 
man, who  could  understand  but  little  English.  He  con- 
tinued to  lay  it  down  in  a  very  emphatic  manner,  using 
language  that  seemed  to  completely  nonplus  the  Span- 
iard, who  would  occasionally  refer  to  the  boarding-house 
landlord,  and  inquire  what  the  man  was  talking  so  earn- 
estly about.  The  landlord,  who  well  understood  what 
was  up,  replied  that  Tom  was  praising  the  island  and 
their  rules  and  regulations.  This  the  Spaniard  believed, 
as  Tom  would  occasionally  introduce  into  his  speech 
the  words  "Bueno  Espaniolo"  (excellent  Spaniards), 
and  end  it  by  inviting  him  to  drink.  This  part  the  po- 
liceman could  understand  without  any  difficulty,  and, 
after  having  drunk  several  times,  he  became  as  merry 
as  the  rest,  and,  finding  he  could  do  nothing  with  them, 
departed. 

In  a  short  time  a  file  of  soldiers  made  their  appear- 
ance. The  sergeant,  who  could  neither  speak  English 
nor  understand  it,  informed  the  landlord  that  he  must 
disperse  the  sailors  and  shut  up  his  house.  The  land- 
lord, however,  shut  the  door  in  his  face,  and  told  Tom 
what  was  going  on,  who,  instantly  seizing  a  bottle,  ran 
out  and  offered  it  to  the  officer ;  but  of  no  avail ;  he  was 
not  to  be  bribed  in  so  easy  a  manner.  Tom  now  turned 
his  attention  to  the  soldiers,  and  passed  the  bottle  so 
freely  among  them  that  the  sergeant  ordered  them  to 
cease  drinking.  However,  another  bottle  was  soon  pro- 
duced, and  a  more  merry  lot  of  soldiers  was  never  seen. 
In  vain  the  officer  endeavored  to  put  a  stop  to  the  pro- 
ceedings ;  they  were  now  all  in  the  house,  and  had  en- 
tered into  the  spirit  of  the  evening;  and  while  all  hands, 


238  LIFE   AND  ADVE]SrTUEE   IN 

sailors  and  soldiers,  were  dancing,  Tom  very  carefully 
took  all  their  muskets  and  hid  them  in  a  quiet  place. 

Thus  matters  moved  along,  the  noise  and  fun  increas- 
ing, untU  the  hour  of  twelve,  at  which  time  the  guard 
were  to  return  to  head-quarters,  make  their  report,  and 
be  relieved.  As  the  bell  tolled  forth  the  hour,  they 
seemed  to  regain  possession  of  their  senses ;  visions  of 
the  guard-house  floated  across  their  minds,  and  they  well 
knew  it  was  their  doom  unless  they  immediately  de- 
parted. But  now  all  was  confusion:  "Where  is  my 
musket?"  was  the  general  cry ;  but  no  muskets  were  to 
be  found.  They  raved  and  swore,  but  all  to  no  pur- 
pose ;  no  one  could  tell  what  had  become  of  them.  On 
hearing  the  sound  of  the  first  relief  bell,  they  rushed  for 
the  door  pell-mell,  and  found  their  officer  had  already 
taken  his  departure.  They  waited  no  longer,  but  ran 
down  the  streets  at  full  speed.  As  soon  as  they  were 
out  of  sight,  Tom  took  the  muskets,  carried  them  to  the 
river,  and,  wading  to  a  considerable  depth,  safely  deposit- 
ed the  "government  arms,"  and  then  returned  to  the 
house,  where  the  dance  was  kept  up  without  farther  in- 
terruption. 

The  next  morning  all  hands  took  leave  of  the  goodly 
city  of  Guam,  and  returned  to  their  respective  ships. 

One  evening  before  our  departure  a  delegation  from 
each  ship  in  port  visited  the  fort  near  the  anchorage. 
"We  found  it  a  solid  piece  of  masonry,  mounting  sik 
guns  of  eighteen  pounds  calibre.  It  is  entirely  surround- 
ed by  water,  and  guarded  by  a  few  soldiers.  About  2 
A.M.  the  several  delegations  returned,  and  at  daylight  a 
small  array  was  seen  approaching.  Wondering  what 
could  be  the  cause  of  this,  we  were  all  on  the  qui  vive 
for  news.  We  soon  learned  that  they  had  come  to  re- 
take the  fort!  It  appears  that  the  whalemen  had  gone 
for  a  lark,  and  had  driven  the  soldiers  ashore  from  the 
fort,  taken  possession  of  it,  unshipped  the  guns,  and  turn- 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  239 

ed  things  around  to  their  own  liking — spilling  things 
generally.  The  conquering  army  approached  the  prem- 
ises very  cautiously,  and,  after  considerable  manoeuvring, 
entered,  but  found  the  premises  vacant,  thus  obtaining  a 
great  and  bloodless  victory.  No  doubt  they  considered 
it  a  great  achievement,  and  had  it  proclaimed  as  such 
among  their  countrymen. 

Every  thing  being  now  "shipshape  and  Bristol  fash- 
ion," we  took  our  departure  for  the  Japan  ground,  de- 
termined to  give  battle  to  the  sperm  whale  this  season 
as  we  had  never  before  done,  knowing  that  every  whale 
that  we  now  captured  shortened  our  voyage  materially. 


240  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 


r  CHAPTER  XXHI. 

Bailey's  Island. — Turtle. — ^Whaling. — Ship  "James  Allen." — Water- 
spouts.— A  heavy  Gale. — Monotony. — A  Swimming  Adventure. — 
Ship  "Atkins  Adams." — Spanish  Jack  again. — Tow-line  Tea. — Cap- 
tain's stump  Speech. — A  large  Whale. — Bark  "Antelope." — Strange 
Incident — Passage  to  the  Group. — Pitt's  Island. — Bark  "  Smyrna." 
— A  rummy  Set. — Ship  "Susan." — Fearful  Tragedy. — Passage  to 
Strong's  Island. — Ship  "Atlantic." — Ship  "Charles  W.  Morgan." — 
"  At  home"  once  more. — Rev.  Mr.  Snow. — Characteristic  Meanness. 
— Rotumah  Dance. — Feast  and  Dance. — Sickness  of  Mr.  L. — Divine 
Service  on  Board. — New  Zealand  Native. — Farewell  to  Strong's  Isl- 
and. 

Nothing  of  interest  transpired  on  the  passage,  unless 
•we  may  speak  of  continued  boisterous  weather,  until 
Wednesday,  May  4th,  when  we  sighted  Bailey's  Island, 
one  of  the  Bonin  Group.  Here  we  sent  a  boat  on  shore, 
and  procured  a  load  of  sweet  potatoes,  watermelons, 
green  com,  etc.,  and  about  twenty  large  turtle,  which 
abound  here  in  great  numbers.  We  need  not  say  that 
"  turtle  soup"  soon  became  no  luxury  with  us. 

We  cruised  around  these  islands  about  a  month,  tak- 
ing two  large  whales  in  the  mean  time,  which  cheered  us 
considerably,  although  we  were  far  from  doing  as  well 
as  we  had  expected.  The  usual  course  of  Japan  whale- 
men is  to  cruise  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Bonin  Islands  dur- 
ing the  month  of  May  and  the  early  part  of  June,  and 
then  work  gradually  to  the  eastward  until  the  close  of 
the  season  in  September,  when  they  are  compelled  to 
leave  from  the  severity  of  the  weather. 

On  Wednesday,  June  2d,  we  saw  another  whaleman 
from  "  Yankee  Land,"  the  *'  James  Allen,"  Captain  New- 
comb,  of  New  Bedford.  He  bore  down  to  us  with  the 
ever-beaiftiful  "stars  and  stripes"  waving  proudly  from 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  241 

the  mizzen-peak,  and  passed  our  stern  in  gallant  style. 
We  had  a  very  interesting  gam  with  them,  although 
hard  at  work  putting  the  dollars  in  our  ship's  hold  in 
the  shape  of  sperm  oil. 

The  next  day  we  saw  several  large  water-spouts, 
which  are  very  common  in  these  latitudes.  They  passed 
some  distance  from  us,  and  we  were  very  careful  to  give 
them  a  wide  berth,  as  several  ships  had  lately  suffered 
from  them,  having  their  spars  and  rigging  severely  in- 
jured. 

These  latitudes  are  also  very  often  visited  by  fearful 
hurricanes,  called  "  typhoons."  On  the  18th  of  June  we 
experienced  the  "  tail-end"  of  one,  as  seamen  call  it.  As 
we  had  received  warning  from  the  barometer,  sail  was 
taken  in,  and  every  thing  secured  in  a  substantial  man- 
ner. The  violence  of  the  wind  seemed  to  sweep  every 
thing  before  it,  forcing  the  old  ship  almost  on  her  beam- 
ends.  The  sea  appeared  like  moving  mountains ;  occa- 
sionally it  would  dash  against  her  sides,  giving  her  a 
shock  that  would  cause  her  to  tremble  in  every  part. 
The  heavy  and  labored  rolling  of  the  ship — the  creak- 
ing of  the  timbers — the  wind  shrieking  through  the  rig- 
ging— clouds  of  spray  flying  with  almost  the  rapidity 
of  lightning — clashing  of  the  backstays — dashing  of  the 
waves,  intermingled  with  the  hoarse  shouting  of  the  sail- 
ors, made  night  hideous,  and  rendered  the  scene  alto- 
gether indescribable.  All  longed  for  morning,  and  when 
daylight  appeared  a  most  awful  yet  grand  sight  pre- 
sented itself.  The  gale  was  still  howling  in  all  its  fury ; 
a  lull  for  a  few  moments  would  ensue,  then  heavy  and 
sudden  blasts  would  follow  in  quick  succession,  striking 
the  ship  with  such  force  as  to  make  every  plank  in  her 
shake  and  tremble.  She  would  plunge  headlong  into 
an  immense  abyss,  and  then  rise  rapidly  to  the  top  of  a 
mountain  wave,  showing  a  fearful  chasm  on  either  side, 
which  threatened  to  ingulf  her  and  finish  the  scene. 

L 


242  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

Every  thing  conspired  to  render  our  situation  an  awful 
one ;  and  yet  it  was  a  grand,  glorious  sight.  At  noon 
the  gale  broke,  and  its  fury  soon  abated,  leaving  us  once 
more  with  pleasant  weather. 

We  recollect  reading,  during  our  wanderings,  in  a 
newspaper  which  we  procured  from  the  States,  in  some 
ship,  a  letter  written  by  some  European  tourist,  in  which 
he  complained  sadly  of  the  "monotony  of  a  voyage 
across  the  Atlantic,"  which  occupied  ten  long  weary  days. 
"We  thought,  at  the  time,  we  would  like  very  much  to 
have  the  writer  take  one  cruise  in  a  whaler  of  seven  or 
eight  months,  where  he  would  see  nothing  but  blue  wa- 
ter for  six  of  those  months.  We  hardly  think  he  would 
complain  of  the  "  monotony  of  a  voyage  across  the  At- 
lantic" again.  We  were  now  cruising  where,  day  after 
day,  week  after  week,  nothing  but  blue  water  was  visi- 
ble around  us;  the  same  dull  round  of  duties;  not  even  a 
brother  whaleman  hove  in  sight  with  whom  we  could  en- 
joy a  friendly  gam.  To  add  to  all  this,  we  could  see  no 
whales ;  the  captain  and  all  hands  were  getting  discour- 
aged, and  feared  we  should  have  to  leave  the  ground  in 
September<  with  but  little  more  oil  than  when  we  came 
upon  it.  At  last  the  captain  appeared  to  wake  up,  and 
offered  a  bounty  of  twenty  dollars  to  the  man  who 
should  first  raise  a  whale. 

At  length  a  laughable  incident  occurred,  which  served 
to  enliven  our  dull  life  somewhat,  and  keep  us  from 
sinking  entirely  into  a  state  of  nonentity.  Several  of 
the  crew,  one  calm  day,  were  out  on  the  jib-boom,  en- 
deavoring to  hook  some  fish  which  were  around  the 
ship  in  great  numbers,  that  they  might  indulge  in  the 
luxury  of  a  mess  of  fresh  fish  for  dinner.  One  of  the 
numbpr,  in  hauling  up  a  large  albicore,  lost  his  hat  over- 
board.    Spanish  Jack  being  on  deck,  sang  out, 

"  What  you  give  me  get  your  hat?" 

"  Two  heads  of  tobacco,"  shouted  the  man. 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  248 

In  a  moment  Jack  was  overboard,  and  in  a  few  sec- 
onds had  the  hat.  Placing  it  on  his  head,  he  started  for 
the  ship.  Although  it  was  nearly  calm,  yet  the  ship 
was  going  slowly  through  the  water,  and  the  breeze 
happened  to  be  freshening.  At  every  stroke  Jack  would 
make  he  would  lose  the  hat  off,  and,  stopping  to  pick  it 
up,  he  found  he  was  losing  ground.  He  now  tried  a 
new  experiment — throwing  it  ahead  of  him,  and  then 
swimming  to  it ;  then  throwing  it  again,  and  so  on ;  but 
even  this  would  not  work,  as  every  time  he  would  throw 
the  hat  he  would  go  under  himself,  and  come  up  snort- 
ing and  blowing  like  a  porpoise.  The  darkey  now  be- 
gan to  be  frightened.  He  was  all  the  time  losing  ground ; 
the  ship  was  leaving  him  astern ;  and  the  captain  finally 
sang  out  to  him,  "  Never  mind  the  hat ;  come  aboard  !" 
but  to  no  purpose;  Jack  stuck  to  the  hat,  fearing  he 
should  lose  the  reward  if  he  did  not  get  it.  At  last, 
however,  after  repeated  threats  from  the  captain,  he  was 
under  the  necessity  of  abandoning  it,  and  struck  out 
boldly  for  the  ship,  shouting,  "  Santa  Maria!  Santa  Ma- 
ria! Madre  de  Dios!^^  at  every  stroke.  A  rope  was 
thrown  him,  but  he  was  so  exhausted  he  could  not  hold 
fast  of  it ;  finally  one  of  the  ship's  company  went  down 
the  side  and  made  it  fast  round  his  body.  Jack  was 
now  hauled  in  on  deck  more  frightened  than  hurt,  and 
as  pale  as  possible  for  a  darkey  to  be.  On  recovering 
so  as  to  speak,  his  first  words  were  for  the  promised  re- 
ward of  tobacco,  which  were  given  him,  although  he 
had  not  recovered  the  hat.  All  hands  had  a  hearty 
laugh  over  this  incident,  and  it  seemed  to  infuse  new 
spirits  into  every  one. 

Thursday,  July  8th,  we  spoke  the  ship  "Atkins 
Adams,"  a  vessel  that  left  Guam  in  company  with  us. 
She  had  taken  but  forty  barrels  since  coming  upon  the 
ground. 

At  length,  on  Saturday,  July  24th,  at  daylight,  was 


244  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

once  more  heard  the  welcome  cry,  "T-h-e-r-e  she 
b-1-o-w-s !"  In  the  shortest  possible  space  of  time  four 
boats  were  down  and  gave  chase.  The  boat-steerer  of 
the  waist-boat  darted  and  missed  his  aim.  This  ''  gal- 
lied"  the  whale,  and  off  he  went  at  railroad  speed,  the 
boats  returning  to  the  ship.  About  nine  A.M.,  how- 
ever, the  chase  was  renewed,  and,  by  skillful  manage- 
ment, the  bow-boat  fastened  both  irons  solid.  As  the 
whale  was  sounding,  Spanish  Jack,  who  was  one  of  the 
crew,  from  some  unknown  cause  became  badly  fright- 
ened, and  managed  to  throw  his  paddle  into  the  line- 
tub.  Of  course  the  line,  which  was  running  out  with 
great  rapidity,  became  foul,  and  carried  the  paddle  to 
the  loggerhead,  which  frightened  Jack  still  more,  and 
his  next  move  was  to  jump  into  the  tub  himself.  The 
boat-steerer,  seeing  how  matters  stood,  as  quick  as 
thought  seized  the  boat-hatchet  and  cut  the  line,  which 
alone  saved  Jack  and  all  hands  from  certain  death. 
Away  went  the  whale ;  and,  after  reflecting  upon  their 
situation  a  moment,  the  crew  commenced  berating  poor 
Jack  for  his  carelessness  in  thus  endangering  his  and 
their  lives,  and  losing  them  the  whale.  As  all  hopes 
of  capturing  him  were  now  at  an  end,  the  boats  return- 
ed to  the  ship. 

On  learning  the  particulars,  the  captain  administered 
to  Jack  a  slight  dose  of  tow-line  tea  to  prevent  any  seri- 
ous consequences  arising  from  his  late  carelessness.  He 
did  not  relish  the  medicine  much,  but  was  obliged  to 
take  it,  nevertheless.  It  was  really  provoking ;  we  had 
been  cruising  so  long  without  seeing  whales,  and  when 
we  did  see  them  under  such  favorable  circumstances,  to 
lose  them  from  such  carelessness  was  not  only  provok- 
ing, but  discouraging. 

The  old  man,  after  giving  Jack  his  medicine,  pro- 
ceeeded  to  make  a  stump  speech  to  all  hands,  to  the  ef- 
fect that  "  they  were  now  some  thirty-three  months  from 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  247 

home,  with  only  about  seven  hundred  barrels  of  oil ; 
that  the  voyage  was  rapidly  drawing  to  a  close ;  it 
would  soon  be  time  for  the  'Emily  Morgan'  to  be 
'  homeward-bound ;'  yet,  if  they  went  on  at  this  rate, 
what  would  they  go  home  with?  A  broken  voyage; 
nothing  coming  to  them,  and  their  time  worse  than 
thrown  away.  He  hoped  the  crew  would  wake  up  and 
take  some  interest  in  the  voyage.  If  they  were  only 
determined  to  succeed,  succeed  they  would,  and  they 
would  soon  be  in  '  Yankee  land'  with  a  good  voyage." 
At  the  close  of  this  speech  three  hearty  cheers  were 
given ;  the  men  went  forward  in  excellent  spirits,  threat- 
ening the  sperm  whales  on  Japan  with  complete  anni- 
hilation. 

An  opportunity  soon  presented  itself,  and  proved  they 
were  in  earnest.  On  Tuesday,  July  27th,  we  raised  a 
"  lone"  whale,  and  in  less  than  an  hour  from  the  time 
he  was  first  seen  he  was  lying  alongside  the  ship,  dead. 
On  cutting  him  in,  we  found  him  an  old  veteran  covered 
with  scars,  and  two  harpoons  in  him  marked  "S.  M.  N." 
By  this  we  knew  he  had  been  struck  by  the  "  Milton," 
who  was  cruising  on  the  ground.  The  following  day, 
while  cutting  in  the  whale,  a  sail  hove  in  sight  to  wind- 
ward. Some  hints  were  thrown  out  by  the  captain 
that  this  was  the  "Milton;"  on  hearing  which,  "all 
hands"  struck  up  a  lively  tune,  and  the  windlass  went 
round  cheerily ;  blanket-piece  after  blanket-piece  came 
in  on  deck,  and,  just  as  the  last  piece  swung  in  clear  of 
the  plankshire,  the  stranger  rounded  our  stern.  Instead 
of  the  "Milton"  she  proved  to  be  the  "Antelope,"  o:^ 
Newport,  Captain  Potter.  Had  it  been  the  former  ves- 
sel, and  any  part  of  the  whale  remaining  in  the  water, 
the  self-constituted  laws  of  whalemen  would  have  com- 
pelled us  to  have  given  up  the  whole  of  the  whale,  and 
this  accounted  for  the  hurry  we  were  in  to  secure  the 
fish  ere  the  stranger  came  down  to  us.     The  result 


248  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE   IN 

proved  our  fears  to  be  groundless;  nevertheless,  the 
blubber  was  all  on  deck,  and  no  one  regretted  it. 

A  few  days  after  this  we  again  spoke  the  "Atkins 
Adams,"  and  found  that  she  was  about  leaving  the 
ground.  On  inquiring  the  cause  of  this  resolve,  Captain 
Fish  said  "  that  he  had  seen  whales  but  twice  since  he 
had  been  on  the  ground,  and  both  times  they  had  steam- 
engines  inside  them,  and  were  going  like  lightning, 
bound  for  the  '  Emily  Morgan.' "  Our  skipper  encour- 
aged him  to  remain  a  while  longer,  telling  him  what 
success  we  had  had,  and  that  the  best  of  the  season  was 
yet  to  come.  The  following  morning,  while  in  com- 
pany with  them,  we  raised  a  whale  off  our  lee  beam 
which  had  the  appearance  of  having  been  wounded. 
Seeing  us  manoeuvring,  they  ran  down,  but  before  they 
reached  us  we  had  a  dead  whale  alongside.  Without 
exchanging  a  word  with  us,  they  continued  on  their 
course  to  the  southward,  no  doubt  disheartened,  and  de- 
termined to  try  their  luck  elsewhere. 

We  must  now  mention  a  very  strange  incident,  and 
one  that  but  very  seldom  occurs  among  whalemen.  On 
cutting  in  this  whale,  we  found  two  irons  in  it  marked 
"  S.  E.  M."  It  being  our  own  ship's  mark,  and  the 
irons  belonging  to  the  bow-boat,  and  recognized  as  such 
by  all  hands,  proved  conclusively  that  it  was  the  same 
whale  which  had  got  our  friend  Jack  into  a  scrape, 
and  which  we  had  lost  nineteen  days  previous,  and 
about  860  miles  to  the  westward  of  where  we  were  then 
cruising. 

Such  instances  are  very  rare.  The  only  one  we  ever 
heard  was  that  of  the  ship  "John  and  Edward."  While 
on  her  outward-bound  passage  in  the  Atlantic  she  struck 
a  large  sperm  whale,  and  was  compelled  to  cut  from 
him.  She  was  absent  three  years,  and  on  her  home 
passage,  off  the  coast  of  Peru,  in  the  Pacific,  captured 
the  same  whale.     The  irons  had  a  peculiar  mark,  such 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC,  249 

as  no  other  ship  carried,  and  from  this  they  knew  the 
whale.  Nothing  but  the  head  of  the  harpoon  and  about 
a  foot  of  the  shank  remained,  the  other  part  having  rust- 
ed off.  This  proves  conclusively  that  sperm  whales  do 
migrate  from  one  ocean  to  the  other  via  Cape  Horn, 
notwithstanding  several  learned  authors  have  asserted 
to  the  contrary. 

On  the  15th  of  September  we  pointed  the  ship's  head 
to  the  southward  with  cheerful  hearts.  This  was  the 
best  cruise  we  had  yet  made,  having  taken  about  four 
hundred  barrels  of  oil.  The  next  season  on  Japan  was 
to  be  our  last ;  from  thence  we  were  "  homeward-bound." 
Although  it  was  a  long  time  ahead,  yet  we  felt  that  ev- 
ery day  made  it  one  the  less,  and  every  mile  of  blue 
water  plowed  was  one  the  less.  Just  before  reaching 
the  group  we  lowered  and  captured  a  twenty -five  bar- 
rel whale :  this  helped  to  cheer  us  along  our  way  very 
much. 

Monday,  October  11th,  we  made  Pitt's  Island ;  .sent  a 
boat  ashore,  and  found  the  bark  "  S.,"  of  New  Bedford, 
at  anchor.  The  crew  of  this  vessel,  including  the  cap- 
tain and  officers,  with  ten  or  twelve  beachcombers,  were 
engaged  in  making  cocoanut  rum,  and  all  hands,  natives 
included,  were  as  drunk  as  rum  could  make  them. 

The  following  day  we  spoke  the  "  Susan,"  of  Nantuck- 
et, Captain  Smith.  From  this  vessel  we  learned  that  dur- 
ing the  past  season  a  fearful  tragedy  had  been  enacted 
at  the  group.  Twenty -five  beachcombers  residing  on 
Henderville's  and  Woodell's  Islands,  which  are  sepa- 
rated by  a  channel  of  only  a  few  miles,  were  murdered 
by  the  natives.  It  appears,  from  what  we  could  learn, 
that  they  had  some  difficulty  with  the  natives — attempt- 
ing to  do  as  they  pleased — threatening  to  take  the  isl- 
ands, etc.  They  had  also  succeeded  in  effecting  a  divis- 
ion among  the  natives,  one  party  espousing  their  cause, 
the  other  opposed  to  them.  Some  of  the  more  cunning, 
12 


250  LIFE  AKD  ADVENTURE  IN 

however,  saw  tlirough  tlie  whole  plot,  and  called  a  pri- 
vate council  of  both  parties.  After  much  deliberation, 
it  was  resolved  to  put  to  death  all  the  white  men,  which 
was  accordingly  done.  This  removed  the  cause  of  their 
quarrels,  and  they  lived  at  peace  again. 

We  were  now  steering  for  Strong's  Island,  with  fine 
breezes,  beautiful  weather,  and  cheerful  hearts.  Sun- 
day, October  19th,  we  spoke  the  "Atlantic,"  of  Nan- 
tucket, Captain  Coleman. 

At  daylight  on  Tuesday,  the  26th,  we  were  within  a 
few  miles  of  the  land.  Saw  a  ship  coming  out,  which 
proved  to  be  the  "  Charles  W.  Morgan,"  of  New  Bed- 
ford, Captain  Sampson,  bound  home.  Paper,  pens,  and 
ink  were  now  in  great  demand,  and,  as  we  wrote  a  few 
lines  to  the  dear  ones  at  home,  the  thought  that  in  one 
year  more  we  too  would  be  "  homeward-bound,"  cheer- 
ed us,  and  caused  us  to  fancy  almost  that  the  time  had 
arrived.  But  no,  not  yet  could  we  sing  "  Huzza,  we're 
homeward  bound !" 

At  noon  we  came  to  anchor  in  our  old  resting-place. 
All  hands  hastened  ashore  to  see  our  old  friends  and 
exchange  greetings.  We  received  a  hearty  welcome 
from  Zegrah  and  his  wife,  who  remarked  to  us  that  we 
all  belonged  to  Strong's  Island,  we  had  been  there  so 
much.  We  learned  that  Eev.  Mr.  Snow,  an  American 
missionary,  with  his  wife,  had  taken  up  his  residence 
here;  also  that  Captain  Hussey  had  left  the  island  as 
master  of  the  whaling  brig  "  Wm.  Penn,"  of  San  Fran- 
cisco. 

On  visiting  among  the  natives,  we  discovered  a  feel- 
ing of  antipathy  to  Mr.  Snow  had  ariseji  among  them. 
We  soon  ascertained  the  cause  to  be  what  we  had  at 
first  anticipated.  A  miserable  beachcomber  had  been 
telling  them  that  "if  the  king  allowed  the  missionary  to 
remain,  in  a  short  time  he  would  become  possessor  of 
the  island ;  that  they  would  have  to  give  every  thing 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  251 

they  obtained  to  him,"  etc.  "We  were  surprised  that 
such  reports  should  be  so  circulated  among  the  natives, 
as  not  the  least  cause  had  arisen  for  them,  and  could 
only  account  for  it  from  the  fact  that  it  was  character- 
istic of  the  class.  What  made  the  matter  still  worse 
was  that,  when  Mr.  Snow  came  to  the  island,  he  found 
this  fellow  friendless  and  homeless;  his  means  of  sub- 
sistence all  gone,  and  begging  from  house  to  house. 
Taking  pity  upon  him,  he  invited  him  to  take  up  his 
abode  at  his  house.  Here  he  found  excellent  fare,  and 
nothing  to  do  but  to  eat,  drink,  and  sleep ;  and,  although 
Mr.  S.  was  very  much  occupied  in  making  improvements 
upon  his  dwelling  and  land  attached,  yet  he  was  the  last 
one  to  offer  him  any  assistance,  but,  on  the  contrary, 
was  repaying  his  kindness  by  endeavoring  to  prejudice 
the  natives  against  him. 

Several  natives  from  the  Island  of  Rotumah  were  re- 
siding on  Strong's  Island  at  this  time.  We  attended 
one  of  their  dances,  given  by  them  in  honor  of  our  ship's 
company.  Their  singing  and  dancing  excelled  any  thing 
of  the  kind  we  had  yet  witnessed.  They  moved  in  exact 
time  with  the  music,  and  went  through  the  exercises 
with  great  precision.  During  all  their  dances  they  use 
the  musket,  which  they  handle  with  the  greatest  expert- 
ness.  The  war-dance,  in  particular,  was  one  of  wild  and 
thrilling  movements;  their  hair  long,  and  standing  in 
all  directions  from  their  head,  even  to  the  perpendicu- 
lar ;  their  bodies  tattooed  and  besmeared  with  cocoanut 
oil,  with  nothing  but  a  tappa  about  the  loins  and  a  mus- 
ket by  the  side,  they  looked  really  frightful  and  war- 
like. The  dance  is  performed  by  forming  in  two  lines, 
and  as  they  sing  they  perform  their  evolutions  of  ad- 
vancing, discovering  and  attacking  the  enemy,  wheeling 
to  load  their  pieces,  fronting  again,  the  front  rank  drop- 
ping upon  one  knee  to  allow  those  in  the  rear  to  fire 
over  them,  while  both  lines  fire  in  the  direction  of  the 


252  LIFE  AND  ADVENTUBE   IN 

supposed  enemy,  and  retreat  to  reload.  After  perform- 
ing these  evolutions  several  times,  they  appear  to  come 
off  victorious,  and  start  off  into  a  noisy  song  and  dance. 
"We  remained  imtil  quite  a  late  hour  witnessing  their 
performances,  and,  after  all  hands  had  given  them  three 
hearty  cheers,  the  assemblage  dispersed  very  peaceably. 
We  returned  to  our  quarters  very  much  pleased  with 
our  evening's  entertainment,  wishing  it  were  in  our  pow- 
er to  place  the  band  in  Barnum's  hands. 

We  also  attended,  a  few  days  after  this,  a  feast  and 
dance  given  by  King  George,  at  which  a  large  wild  hog 
was  served  up,  and  every  thing  "  got  up"  in  grand  style. 
To  this  feast  the  Kotumah  Kanakers  were  invited,  and 
in  the  evening  they  again  entertained  us  with  their 
dances.  The  king  and  chiefs  appeared  highly  pleased 
with  their  performances,  continually  exclaiming  "  very 
good  fashion,  that  dance." 

Our  second  officer,  Mr.  L.,  had  been  sick  for  a  num- 
ber of  months,  yet  he  possessed  such  remarkable  energy 
and  perseverance  that  he  would  not  succumb  to  it,  but 
did  his  duty  regularly  up  to  the  time  of  our  arriving  in 
port ;  and  even  then  he  appeared  to  feel  that  when  we 
once  more  got  to  sea  he  should  recover ;  but  we  all  felt 
and  thought  differently.  We  could  see  that  he  was 
wasting  away,  little  by  little,  and  we  felt  that  his  days 
were  numbered — that  he  would  never  see  his  home 
again. 

On  Sunday,  October  31st,  divine  service  was  perform- 
ed on  board  by  Eev.  Mr.  Snow.  For  three  long  years 
we  had  not  listened  to  such  sounds  as  came  to  our  ears 
on  that  day.  It  was,  to  say  the  least,  a  pleasing  sight  to 
see  the  weather-beaten  tar  with  a  hymn-book  in  his 
hand,  and  to  hear  all  unite  in  singing  the  praises  of  God. 
The  sermon  was  very  plain,  yet  forcible,  reminding  us 
of  the  short  tenure  of  our  lives,  and  admonishing  all  to 
prepare  for  death.     The  feeling  manner  in  which  Mr. 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  253 

S.  spoke  of  death  on  shipboard  brought  tears  to  the  eyes 
of  many,  as  we  had  not  forgotten  such  a  scene  among 
our  own  small  company.  King  George  and  the  royal 
family  were  on  board,  and  appeared  to  listen  to  the  ex- 
ercises with  a  great  deal  of  interest;  and  when  they 
were  concluded,  he  wished  to  know  of  us  what  the  good 
man  had  been  talking  about  so  long.  His  majesty  ap- 
peared to  have  taken  quite  an  interest  in  the  mission- 
ary. He  gave  him  a  large  piece  of  good  land,  built  him 
a  nice  substantial  house,  and  assisted  him  all  in  his  pow- 
er. He  was  also  building  a  house  for  himself  in  the 
same  vicinity. 

In  conversation  with  Mr.  Snow,  he  informed  us  that  it 
was  his  intention  to  take  the  children  in  charge,  teach 
them  the  English  language,  and  endeavor  to  bring  them 
up  in  the  right  way.  He,  of  course,  anticipated  trials 
and  difficulties  in  his  efforts.  He  did  not  intend  to  in- 
terfere with  any  of  the  old  customs  of  the  natives,  but 
show  to  the  rising  generation  the  folly  of  these  customs, 
that  when  they  came  upon  the  stage  of  action  they  would 
abolish  their  heathenish  rites.  We  wished  him  God 
speed,  for  we  believed  him  to  be  a  true  Christian — one 
who  was  actuated  by  no  selfish  motive,  but  by  a  desire 
to  *'  do  his  Master's  will."  We  felt,  too,  that  great  praise 
was  due  to  his  excellent  lady,  who  had  voluntarily  sur- 
rendered the  comforts  and  luxuries  of  a  home  among 
enlightened  people  to  spend  her  life  on  one  of  the  hea- 
then islands  of  the  vast  Pacific,  to  add  her  mite  toward 
civilizing  and  Christianizing  the  poor  native.  "Verily 
they  will  receive  their  reward." 

We  found  on  shore  a  native  of  the  New  Zealand  Isl- 
ands, who  had  been  left  here  sick.  We  visited  him  sev- 
eral times,  once  or  twice  in  company  with  Mr.  Snow. 
He  was  very  sick,  and  did  not  expect  to  recover.  The 
"good  missionary,"  as  he  called  Mr.  S.,  was  doing  all  in 
his  power  to  alleviate  his  sufferings,  nursing  him  with 


254:  LIFB  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

all  the  love  and  sjmpatlij  of  a  brother ;  and  Mrs,  S. 
often  visited  the  poor  man.  He  expressed  to  Mr.  Snow 
his  confidence  and  belief  in  a  dying  Savior,  trusting  in 
his  love  and  merits ;  and  we  doubt  not  that  when  his 
spirit  took  its  flight,  it  went  to  those  mansions  above, 
where  the  poor  New  Zealander  is  welcomed  by  Christ 
and  his  angels  as  warmly  as  the  favored  Christian  of 
American  lands. 

The  time  had  now  arrived  when  we  were  to  bid  adieu 
to  Strong's  Island  and  its  pleasures,  some  of  us  forever. 
Need  we  say  that  we  had  become  somewhat  attached  to 
our  friends  here,  who  had  ever  treated  us  with  such 
kindness  ?  Never  shall  we  forget  them ;  and  in  future 
years,  when  memory  shall  recall  former  happy  scenes 
and  pleasures  enjoyed  while  roving^  Strong's  Island  and 
its  simple,  kind-hearted  natives  will  stand  forth  bold  and 
prominent. 

*'  Isle  of  beauty,  fare  thee  well !" 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  255 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Success  of  the  "Mohawk." — Ship  "Napoleon." — ^Whaling. — Bound  to 
the  southward. — Sickness  and  Death  of  Mr.  L. — Ship  "Roscoe." — 
Pleasant  Island. — Massacre  of  the  "Inga's"  Crew. — Narrow  Escape. 
— Ship  "Hannibal." — Christmas  and  New- Year. — Ship  "William 
Tell." — Ship  "John  Wells." — Violent  Death  of  Captain  Hussey. — 
Bound  for  Hong  Kong. — H.  B.  M.'sBrig  "  Serpent." — Island  of  Rota. 
— Wild  Boar. — A  general  Stampede. — "All  Hands  and  the  Cook." 
— Man  the  Victor. — Heavy  Gales. — Gad's  Eock. — ^Formosa. — Bashee 
Islands. 

On  Friday,  November  12th,  soon  after  leaving  Strong's 
Island,  we  gammed  with  the  "  Mohawk,"  our  old  friends, 
and  learned  that  they  had  taken  eight  hundred  barrels 
of  oil  the  previous  season  on  Japan.  We  could  not  but 
envy  them,  as  we  were  one  year  from  home  when  they 
sailed.  But  we  felt  that  if  we  could  but  see  the  whales, 
we  would  soon  add  to  the  one  thousand  barrels  we  had 
in  our  hold. 

A  few  days  afterward,  at  Ocean  Island,  we  spoke  the 
ship  "  Napoleon,"  of  New  Bedford.  The  following  day 
we  raised  whales,  and,  determined  to  give  them  battle, 
lowered  four  boats.  In  less  than  two  hours  we  had 
three  alongside,  and  at  sundown  "started  the  works" 
with  merry  hearts.  A  few  more  such  lowerings  would 
point  the  old  ship's  head  homeward. 

But  for  the  present  we  must  steer  for  a  southern  port. 
Our  second  officer,  Mr.  Lowe,  had  been  failing  in  health 
for  many  months,  and  our  captain  determined  to  make 
Sydney,  New  South  Wales,  that  medical  advice  and 
treatment  might  be  procured  for  him.  Accordingly, 
about  the  1st  of  December,  we  left  the  Group,  bound  for 
Sydney.  But  a  short  time  elapsed,  however,  ere  we  saw 
that  it  was  of  no  use ;  Mr.  L.  could  not  live  more  than  a 


256  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

day  or  two  at  the  fartliest.  On  Saturday,  December  4tb, 
he  appeared  sinking  very  fast.  At  his  own  request  we 
placed  him  in  an  arm-chair,  that  he  might,  as  he  said, 
breathe  more  freely.  With  great  calmness  he  described 
his  feehngs  and  symptoms,  "gradually  growing  more 
chilly,  and  losing  his  life  by  degrees,"  as  he  said.  At 
about  10  P.M.  he  departed  without  a  struggle.  Never 
did  we  witness  the  death-scene  where  the  sufferer  was 
so  perfectly  composed  and  resigned.  So  quietly  did 
his  spirit  take  its  flight  that  it  appeared  as  if  he  had 
feUen  asleep.  Sail  was  at  once  reduced,  the  body  laid 
out,  wrapped  in  a  sheet,  covered  by  the  American  en- 
sign, and  placed  on  the  quarter-deck. 

The  next  day,  no  work,  no  masthead,  no  noise;  a  mel- 
ancholy stillness  pervaded  the  whole  ship.  All  on  board 
appeared  to  realize  the  dispensation  that  had  a  second 
time  visited  us.  We  had  lost  a  shipmate  that  was  kind 
and  obliging;  an  officer  that  was  prompt  in  the  dis- 
charge of  his  duties ;  a  thorough  sailor,  and  a  kind,  good 
man — one  that  was  beloved  by  all  his  shipmates.  At 
1  P.M.  all  hands  were  called  to  perform  a  mournful  duty 
— bury  their  friend  and  brother.  Our  national  flag  was 
mournfully  waving  at  half-mast,  all  sail  in,  and  the  ship 
hove-to.  The  body  was  placed  upon  a  plank,  with 
weights  attached  to  its  feet.  The  services  were  com- 
menced by  the  captain,  who  read  the  one  hundred  and 
seventh  Psalm,  delivered  a  few  excellent  remarks,  fol- 
lowed by  a  prayer;  and  as  he  repeated  the  solemn  words 
of  the  service,  "  we  commit  this  body  to  the  deep,"  the 
plank  was  raised,  and  the  body  was  soon  fathoms  be- 
neath the  "  dark  blue  wave." 

"But  when  the  last  great  trump  shall  thrill  the  grave, 
And  earth's  unnumbered  myriads  reappear, 

He,  too,  shall  hear  the  summons  'neath  the  wave 
That  now,  in  silence,  wraps  his  sunless  bier. 

And  coming  forth,  in  trembling  reverence  bowed, 

Unfold  the  tongueless  secrets  of  his  shroud."' 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  257 

As  the  necessity  for  our  making  a  southern  port  no 
longer  existed,  we  turned  our  attention  to  sperm  whales, 
one  of  which  we  captured  a  few  days  subsequent  to  the 
burial  of  Mr.  L.  On  Monday,  December  13th,  we  spoke 
the  "  Eoscoe,"  of  New  Bedford,  Captain  Hayden,  who, 
being  an  old  chum  of  our  captain,  sailed  in  company 
with  us  for  several  days.  This  event  proved  very  for- 
tunate for  us,  as  the  sequel  will  show;  and  afterward, 
in  meditating  upon  our  narrow  escape,  we  could  but 
think  that  a  divine  Providence  was  continually  watch- 
ing over  and  guarding  us. 

In  company  with  the  "Eoscoe,"  we  made  Pleasant 
Island  on  Wednesday,  December  15th.  .  About  11  A.M., 
when  two  or  three  miles  from  the  land,  the  "  Eoscoe" 
about  half  a  mile  ahead  of  us,  we  perceived  her  sudden- 
ly heave-to  and  hoist  her  ensign  half-mast,  and  union 
down.  This  we  knew  to  be  a  signal  of  distress,  and, 
fearing  they  were  having  some  difficulty  with  the  na- 
tives and  needed  our  immediate  assistance,  we  cracked 
on  all  sail  and  shortly  rounded  her  stern.  Captain 
Hayden  informed  us  that  the  brig  "  Inga,"  of  New  Bed- 
ford, Captain  Barnes,  had  been  taken  here  a  few  days 
previous  by  the  natives,  and  all  of  the  crew  massacred 
save  two ;  at  the  same  time  bidding  us  beware  of  the 
"  copper-skinned  rascals,"  as  he  termed  them.  But  his 
warning  came  too  late,  for  already  were  our  decks  crowd- 
ed with  them.  We  had  noticed,  as  something  remark- 
able, that,  after  the  "Eoscoe"  had  hoisted  her  signal  of 
distress,  all  the  canoes  left  her  and  made  for  our  ship. 
Not  suspecting  any  danger,  we  had  allowed  them  to 
come  on  board  to  the  number  of  about  four  hundred. 
We  were  now  in  a  position  of  extreme  danger.  As  we 
afterward  learned,  it  was  their  fixed  intention  to  take 
our  ship  the  first  opportunity,  as  they  owed  us  an  old 
grudge  for  throwing  their  hogs  and  cocoanuts  overboard 
when  on  a  previous  visit  to  them.     That  opportunity 


258  LIFE  ASD  ADVENTURE  IN 

now  presented  itself.  We  must  confess  that  things  be- 
gan to  wear  rather  an  unpleasant  appearance,  and  we 
felt  satisfied  that  nothing  hardly  short  of  a  miracle  could 
save  us.  Seeing  and  knowing  our  situation,  Captain 
Hayden  promptly  came  on  board,  himself  and  boat's 
crew  well  armed,  bringing  with  him  a  white  man  who 
had  resided  on  the  island  many  years,  and  who  possess- 
ed much  influence  over  the  natives.  It  appears  he  suc- 
ceeded in  reaching  the  "  Roscoe"  prior  to  any  of  the  na- 
tives, and  informed  Captain  H.  of  the  taking  of  the 
"  Inga ;"  consequently,  no  natives  were  allowed  to  come 
on  board,  and  they  all  pulled  for  our  ship.  This  white 
man  now  informed  our  captain  that  he  had  better  get 
all  his  weapons  of  defense  in  order,  load  his  muskets, 
etc.,  and  take  them  into  his  cabin,  "  for,"  said  he,  "  these 
natives  are  determined  to  take  your  ship, if  possible; 
they  only  await  the  arrival  of  one  of  their  chiefs,  who 
fancies  you  insulted  him,  and  who  has  sworn  to  kill  you 
with  his  own  hands,  to  commence  their  murderous  at- 
tack. I  have  some  influence  with  them,  and  if  I  can 
keep  them  quiet,  and  get  them  away  before  he  comes, 
I  will  do  so ;  but  if  he  comes  to  the  ship,  nothing  can 
save  you." 

The  reader  may  rest  assured  that  this  news  did  not 
tend  to  allay  our  fears  in  the  least,  yet  each  one  seemed 
determined  to  sell  his  life  as  dearly  as  possible.  ISTo  un- 
due excitement  was  exhibited ;  each  one  was  calm,  cool, 
collected,  for  we  knew  the  first  symptom  of  fear  be- 
trayed would  be  the  signal  for  the  work  of  destruction 
to  commence.  Quietly  were  all  the  muskets  loaded, 
and  our  harpoons,  lances,  boat-hatchets,  and  other  weap- 
ons made  ready,  so  that  they  could  be  seized  should  oc- 
casion require.  Fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  of  the  most 
intense  anxiety  to  all  hands  passed,  each  one  hoping 
something  would  transpire  to  cause  the  natives  to  leave. 
The  ships  were  headed  off  the  land,  and  sail  made ;  still 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  259 

they  did  not  appear  inclined  to  leave,  but  sat  in  groups 
around  the  deck,  intently  watching  every  movement 
that  was  made,  and  earnestly  conversing  with  each  other, 
eying  the  cutting-spades  which  hung  over  the  quarter- 
deck, and  evidently  longing  for  some  one  to  commence 
the  fracas.  At  length  a  happy  thought  suggested  itself 
to  one  of  our  men.  Mounting  aloft,  he  remained  a  few 
moments  at  masthead.  Gazing,  with  great  interest  ap- 
parently, at  some  object  in  the  far  distance,  he  sung  out, 
with  a  loud,  ringing,  joyous  voice,  "  Sail  ho!   A.  large 

MAJSr-OF-WAR  COMING  DOWN  FROM  THE  WINDWARD  UN- 
DER FULL  sail!" 

This  was  sufficient.  The  natives  waited  not  to  hear 
this  repeated,  but  clambered  over  the  side  in  the  great- 
est hurry  and  confusion.  Each  one  seemingly  endeav- 
ored to  be  first,  and  in  a  few  moments  our  decks  were 
perfectly  free  from  them.  As  the  last  native  left  the 
ship,  one  thrilling,  deafening  hurrah  went  up  from  all 
on  board.  This  was  caught  up  on  board  the  "  Eoscoe," 
and  returned  with  a  hearty  "three  times  three." 

We  congratulated  ourselves  on  our  narrow  escape 
from  these  merciless  savages,  and  could  not  but  feel 
thankful  to  Almighty  God  for  his  providence  in  thus 
rescuing  us.  It  would  have  been  but  a  short  battle  had 
it  commenced.  As  we  have  before  remarked,  the  na- 
tives of  this  island  are  very  powerful  and  robust ;  and 
their  mode  of  warfare  would  have  been  to  have  seized 
the  crew  and  thrown  them  overboard,  while  those  in  the 
canoes  would  have  held  the  victims  under  the  surface 
till  they  werd  drowned.  Although  the  man  who  sang  out 
"Sail  ho !"  from  the  masthead  did  not  expect  to  see  one 
when  he  started  to  go  aloft,  yet  he  did  see  a  sail,  which 
soon  came  down  to  us ;  and,  although  not  a  man-of-war, 
yet  we  were  none  the  less  pleased  to  see  her.  It  proved 
to  be  the  whale-ship  "Hannibal,"  of  New  London,  Cap- 
tain Lester. 


260  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

We  related  to  him  all  the  circumstances  connected 
with  our  late  adventures,  and  he  congratulated  us  heart- 
ily upon  our  narrow  escape.  The  circumstances  con- 
nected with  the  taking  of  the  "  Inga"  were,  as  nearly  as 
we  could  learn,  as  follows :  The  vessel  was  near  the  isl- 
and, and  crowded  with  natives.  While  trading  with 
them.  Captain  Barnes,  whether  wisely  or  not  we  can  not 
say,  kept  a  cutlass  in  his  hand ;  and,  during  the  transac- 
tion of  some  petty  trade,  had  some  high  words  with  a 
notorious  chief,  who,  fancying  himself  insulted,  seized 
the  cutlass,  cut  Captain  B.  through  the  body,  and  then 
tossed  him  overboard.  This  was  the  signal  for  a  gen- 
eral massacre.  After  killing  all  but  one  white  man  and 
a  native  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  whom  they  took  pris- 
oners, they  rifled  the  ship  of  all  they  considered  valu- 
able, and  then  attempted  to  run  her  ashore.  Not  suc- 
ceeding very  well  themselves,  they  ordered  their  pris-, 
oners  to  work  the  brig  to  the  land,  or  they  would  kill 
them.  This  they  secretly  determined  not  to  do;  and, 
bracing  the  head-yards  one  way  and  the  after-yards  in 
a  contrary  direction,  caused  the  brig  to  remain  in  nearly 
a  stationary  condition.  This  puzzled  them  exceeding- 
ly; and,  fearing  a  ship  might  heave  in  sight,  they  de- 
termined to  scuttle  her.  Accordingly,  a  chief  com- 
menced cutting  a  hole  in  her  side  with  an  axe,  which  he 
let  fall  overboard  after  a  few  strokes.  They  then  de- 
termined to  set  her  on  fire,  which  they  did,  and  left  for 
the  shore.  She  probably  burned  to  the  water's  edge, 
as  she  was  never  heard  from  afterward. 

We  learned  that  the  two  prisoners  were  kept  in  close 
confinement  on  shore,  yet  kindly  treated.  We  never 
learned  what  became  of  them,  yet  we  trust  they  were 
released  from  the  grasp  of  these  murderous  villains,  as 
several  ships  visited  the  island  aft«r  having  heard  of  the 
destruction  of  the  brig,  and  we  know  that  no  whaling 
captain  would  leave  a  thing  undone  to  rescue  them. 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  261 

We  took  from  Pleasant  Island  two  men,  one  a  native 
of  the  Azores,  or  Western  Islands,  and  the  other  a  New 
Yorker,  These  men  begged  the  captain  to  take  them 
with  him,  as  they  were  afraid  to  remain  on  the  island 
since  the  late  massacre. 

Christmas-day  came  round  in  due  season,  and,  al- 
though it  did  not  bring  us  roast  turkey,  yet  it  did  sperm 
whales.  We  captured  two  fine  ones  on  that  day ;  and, 
as  we  finished  stowing  them  down  in  the  hold,  New- 
Year's-day  came  upon  us,  bringing  "more  of  the  same 
sort,"  which  proved  very  acceptable. 

On  Tuesday,  January  4th,  we  spoke  the  "  William  ^ 
Tell,"  of  Sag  Harbor,  Captain  Taber,  who  reported  that 
the  "Mohawk"  had  visited  Pleasant  Island,  and  pur- 
chased several  articles  belonging  to  the  ill-fated  "  Inga." 
The  natives  had  taken  the  chronometer  apart,  and  were 
wearing  the  wheels  and  other  parts  of  it  around  their 
necks  as  ornaments.  They  also  reported  that,  had  we 
been  alone  at  the  time  of  our  late  visit  to  Pleasant  Isl- 
and, we  would  certainly  have  lost  our  ship  and  our  lives ; 
nothing  prevented  it  but  our  being  in  company  with 
the  "  Eoscoe."  When  we  heard  this,  we  could  but  feel 
that 

"  There  is  a  divinity  that  shapes  our  ends, 
Rough  hew  them  how  we  will." 

The  following  day  we  spoke  the  "John  Wells,"  of 
New  Bedford,  Captain  Cross.  He  reported  that  a  mutiny 
had  occurred  on  board  the  "William  Penn,"  by  which 
Captain  Hussey  had  been  murdered  by  a  Kanaka.  The 
murder  was  committed  about  4  A.M.  Captain  H.  was 
in  the  vicinity  of  some  of  the  islands  of  the  Group,  and, 
while  engaged  in  looking  over  the  "weather  rail"  for 
land,  a  Kanaka  boat-steerer  seized  a  spade  and  darted 
it  through  him,  killing  him  almost  instantly.  The  body 
was  immediately  thrown  overboard,  and  the  gang  (seven 
or  eight  of  the  crew),  led  by  the  Kanaka,  commenced 


262  LIFE  AISTD  ADVENTURE  IN 

their  murderous  work.  They  killed  the  steward  and 
cook,  severely  wounded  the  mate  and  second  mate,  and 
then,  seemingly  actuated  by  some  merciful  freak,  stop- 
ped their  bloody  performances,  and  promised  to  leave 
the  vessel  quietly  if  the  officers  would  allow  them  to 
take  what  they  wanted.  This  request  was  readily  grant- 
ed, as  the  peaceable  portion  of  the  crew  and  officers  were 
but  too  willing  to  have  them  leave.  They  accordingly 
took  a  boat,  and  steered  for  Sydenham's  Island,  where 
the  ringleader  belonged.  The  Kanaka  took  with  him 
a  large  sum  of  money  belonging  to  Captain  Hussey,  and 
he  had  not  been  on  shore  twenty-four  hours  ere  he  was 
shot  by  a  beachcomber  to  obtain  possession  of  it.  Thus 
we  see  the  scoundrel  met  with  his  deserts. 

Captain  Hussey  also  met  with  the  same  fate  that  he 
consigned  one  of  his  own  crew  to.  He  murdered  his 
fellow-man  in  cold  blood,  and  he,  in  his  turn,  died  a  vio- 
lent death. 

The  reader  must  not  think,  from  reading  these  scenes 
of  violence  and  murder,  that  they  were  continually  oc- 
curring in  this  part  of  our  globe.  On  the  contrary,  the 
natives  there  are  generally  well-disposed  and  peaceable; 
but  at  this  time  the  islands  were  thronged  with  miser- 
able beachcombers — men  whose  only  object  and  desire 
appeared  to  be  blood  and  plunder.  The  majority  of 
them  were  escaped  convicts  from  New  South  Wales,  and 
a  more  bloodthirsty  set  of  villains  never  went  unhung. 

"We  were  now  nearly  forty  months  from  home,  and 
we  found  it  necessary  to  prolong  the  voyage  another 
season.  To  do  this,  however,  we  must  have  more  pro- 
visions (bread,  meat,  and  flour)  than  we  now  had  on 
board.  These  could  be  obtained  more  advantageously 
at  Hong  Kong  than  at  any  other  port,  and  our  captain 
accordingly  determined  to  steer  for  that  port.  On  Sun- 
day, January  16th,  spoke  her  majesty's  brig  of  war  "Ser- 
pent," S.  W.  Hammett,  acting  commander.     Captain  H. 


THE  SOUTH   PACIFIC.  263. 

inquired  very  particularly  concerning  tlie  late  transac- 
tions at  Pleasant  Island,  On  taking  his  leave,  he  ex- 
pressed his  determination  to  proceed  to  the  Group,  visit 
all  the  islands,  and  rid  them  of  the  rascally  beachcomb- 
ers that  infested  them,  / 
We  touched  at  the  island  of  Rota,  one  of  the  La-  \J 
drones,  on  Tuesday,  January  25th,  and  procured  a  quan- 
tity of  fruit,  hogs,  etc.  Among  the  animals  was  a  fero- 
cious wild  boar,  which  the  natives  had  captured  on  the 
mountains.  He  was  securely  fastened  when  brought  on 
board,  but,  as  no  one  knew  he  was  wild,  the  thongs  were 
cut,  and  he  was  set  at  liberty.  This  was  no  sooner  done 
than  he  made  a  rush  at  some  of  the  men,  who  fled  in 
double-quick  time.  Turning,  he  played  the  same  game 
on  another  group,  until  he  had  complete  possession  of 
the  deck,  all  hands  taking  to  their  heels,  clambering  into 
the  rigging,  on  to  the  rail,  water-butt,  and  any  place  that 
was  the  most  convenient,  without  stopping  to  ask  ques- 
tions. Here  was  a  fix — a  wild  boar  had  succeeded  in 
taking  the  ship !  His  swinish  majesty  appeared  to  en- 
joy the  fun  hugely,  going  about  the  decks  making  such 
observations  as  suited  him  best,  and  driving  the  other 
porkers  around  at  his  pleasure.  Once,  however,  he  over- 
shot his  mark.  The  coot-,  ensconced  in  his  galley,  with 
both  doors  closed,  felt  secure,  and  would  occasionally 
push  one  of  them  ajar  and  take  a  look.  Porkey  finally 
discovered  this  move,  and,  thinking  it  an  unwarrantable 
intrusion  upon  his  rights,  raised  his  bristles,  showed  his 
teeth,  and  made  for  the  old  doctor.  Seeing  him  com- 
ing, the  old  darkey  seized  a  dipper  of  scalding-water 
from  his  copper,  and,  as  Mr,  Hog  approached  within 
proper  distance,  bristling  for  the  fight,  gave  it  to  him  be- 
tween the  eyes.  This  was  too  much  for  his  lordship, 
and  a  mode  of  warfare  which  he  least  expected.  He 
did  not  pay  the  doctor  a  second  visit  alive,  A  number 
of  plans  were  now  devised  for  his  capture — among  the 
rest,  that  of  lassoing  him.    Portuguese  Manuel,  who  Tcnew 


264  LIFE  AND  ADVEl^URE  IN 

all  about  managing  wild  hogs,  as  he  said,  volunteered  to 
go  down  npon  deck  and  slip  a  running  bowline  over 
his  head.  No  sooner,  however,  did  his  feet  touch  the 
deck,  than  the  boar,  seemingly  mistrusting  his  evil  de- 
signs, rushed  after  him.  Away  went  Manuel,  yelling 
for  dear  life,  with  the  boar  close  at  his  heels.  He  finally 
succeeded  in  mounting  the  rail,  and,  thinking  the  boar 
still  in  close  pursuit,  kept  on  ascending  the  rigging  with 
all  possible  speed,  until  the  mate  cried  out,  and  asked 
him  "  where  he  was  going?"  On  hearing  this,  Manuel 
looked  about  him,  and,  seeing  the  boar  still  on  deck,  de- 
scended to  the  rail,  his  hair  erect,  countenance  pale  (for 
a  Portuguese) — in  fact,  frightened  out  of  his  wits.  The 
crew,  scattered  about  on  the  rail  and  in  the  rigging,  pre- 
sented a  truly  laughable  sight:  one  or  two  with  their 
countenances  exhibiting  the  strongest  emotions  of  fear ; 
others  with  their  faces  expanded  by  a  br.oad  grin ;  some 
cursing  the  Spaniards  for  bringing  off  a  "wild  boar;" 
others  looking  at  it  as  an  excellent  joke,  and  laughing 
heartily  at  the  whole  affair.  After  some  time  spent  in 
manoeuvring,  a  bowline  was  slipped  over  his  head,  when 
he  was  soon  choked  down,  dispatched,  and  placed  in  the 
hands  of  the  cook. 

About  the  1st  of  February  we  experienced  a  very 
heavy  gale.  We  were  obliged  to  take  our  "boats  in  on 
deck,  heave-to,  and  secure  things  generally.  The  stew- 
ard, not  having  taken  this  precaution  in  regard  to  his 
crockery,  etc.,  found  it  suddenly  coming  through  the 
pantry  door  as  the  ship  gave  a  sudden  lurch.  The  floor 
was  finely  strewed  with  broken  dishes,  tea,  coffee,  mo- 
lasses, and  sundry  other  articles,  gloriously  mixed  in 
one  heterogeneous  mass. 

On  Sunday,  February  6th,  we  sighted  Gad's  Eock ;  also 
the  southern  point  of  the  island  of  Formosa.  The  next 
morning  the  northern  Bashee  Islands  were  in  sight,  bear- 
ing W.N.W.  Found  our  reckoning  to  be  latitude  21° 
27'  N.,  longitude  121°  31'  E. 


THE   SOUTH   PACIFIC.  265 


CHAPTEE  XXy. 

Chinese  Fishermen. — Pedro  Blanca. — Preparing  for  Port. — Chinese 
Pilots. — Beating  up  the  Passage. — Hong  Kong. — "Hail  Columbia." 
— The  "Susquehanna." — Stars  and  Stripes. — Chinese  Merchants. — 
Washerwomen. — Bumboats. — Dick  Simpson  and  John  Chinaman. — 
Chinese  mode  of  Trading. — Sanpan. — A  floating  Community. — ^Bos- 
ton Jack. — Victoria,  its  Situation,  Streets,  etc. — Chinese  Barbers. — 
Fortune-tellers. — Policemen. — Chinese  New-year. — A  busy  Time. — 
Firing  a  Salute. — Arrival  of  Governor  Bonham. — English  Barracks. 
— Churches. — Hotels. — Dog  or  Horse? — Visit  from  Men-of-war's- 
men. — Tom  and  the  Lieutenant. — Commodore  PeiTy. — Midshipmen. 
— Visit  to  the  Barracks. — Theatre. — Fort. — Make  some  Purchases. 
— Counterfeit  Money. — ^Tricks  of  the  Chinese  Merchants. — Females. 
— Gambling. — Cut-throats. — Short-tailed  Gentlemen.  —  Chinese  Fu- 
neral.— Man-iages. — Education. — Ouang  Ouci  Yuen. — Infanticide. — 
Twenty-second  of  February. — Chinese  Artists. — Their  Powers  of  Imi- 
tation.— Sam  Shu. — Domestic  Life  of  the  Chinese. — Food. — Temple, 
or  Joss  House. — Worship  of  Idols. — Joss  Sticks. — Tom  as  a  Yankee 
Naval  OflScer. — Chinese  Men-of-war. — Pirates. — Chinese  Theatre. — 
Masonic  Temple. — The  Bethel.  —  Chinaman  and  his  Shoes. — The 
Arrest,  Trial,  and  Acquittal. — Departure  for  Sea. 

Wednesday,  February  9th,  brouglit  us  in  close  prox- 
imity to  the  land  of  the  Celestials,  as  the  numerous  fish- 
ing-junks bore  testimony.  The  same  day  we  sighted 
Pedro  Blanca,  which  is  an  island  lying  near  Hong  Kong. 
At  10  A.M.  commenced  bending  the  cables,  and  making 
other  preparations  for  coming  to  an  anchor.  As  we 
neared  the  land  we  saw  great  numbers  of  pilot-boats 
steering  for  us,  one  of  which  soon  reached  us ;  the  pilot 
came  on  board,  with  his  long  tail,  or  queu,  hanging  be- 
hind him,  and  presenting  a  comical  contrast  to  an  old 
Yankee  "  Hard-a-lee."  He  wanted  the  moderate  sum 
of  forty  dollars  for  taking  us  into  port.  Captain  Ewer 
was  not  so  easily  gulled  as  that,  and  soon  gave  the  old 

M 


266  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE   IN 

fellow  to  understand  that  if  lie  wished  to  pilot  us  in  for 
twenty  dollars  he  could  do  so,  and  if  not  he  could  leave 
immediately.  This  brought  him  to  his  senses,  and  he 
very  quickly  accepted  the  offer,  as  numerous  other  pilot- 
boats  were  in  sight,  and  he  knew  that  he  would  be  un- 
derbid if  they  had  an  opportunity  to  do  so. 

The  next  day  found  us  beating  up  through  the  lee 
passage.  At  1  P.M.  the  wind  died  away,  and  the  tide 
commencing  to  set  out,  we  dropped  anchor.  At  7  P.M. 
we  weighed  anchor,  and  with  a  fine  breeze  beat  up  to 
the  anchorage.  At  8  P.M.  we  "  brought  up"  in  the  har- 
bor of  Victoria,  Hong  Kong. 

We  were  aroused  from  our  slumbers  the  following 
morning  by  the  familiar  strains  of  "Hail  Columbia," 
and  our  first  thought  was  that  we  were  again  at  home. 
But  this  pleasant  illusion  was  soon  dispelled ;  for,  going 
on  deck,  we  found  that  the  music  proceeded  from  the 
steam  frigate  Susquehanna,  which  was  lying  close  to. 
What  joyous  feelings  did  we  experience  while  listening 
to  that  soul-stirring  air,  and  beholding  our  national  flag, 
the  glorious  "  stars  and  stripes,"  floating  proudly  from 
the  mizzen-peak  of  such  a  grand  and  stately  vessel !  We 
could  but  feel  a  great  national  pride  to  see  our  beloved 
country  so  nobly  represented  in  a  foreign  clime.  On 
looking  about  us,  we  saw  the  United  States  sloops  of  war 
Plymouth,  Portsmouth,  and  Saratoga ;  also  the  Supply 
store-ship,  together  forming  quite  a  fleet.  Nothing  is 
so  cheering  to  the  rover,  while  in  foreign  lands,  as  to 
see  familiar  faces,  persons  speaking  the  same  tongue  and 
claiming  the  same  land  of  birth,  "  the  land  of  the  free 
and  the  home  of  the  brave."  A  feeling  of  patriotism 
naturally  animated  us  as  we  beheld  our  country's  float- 
ing batteries,  "the  right  arm  of  our  defense,"  and  for  a 
moment  we  forgot  that  there  was  any  country  but  "  hap- 
py, free  America !"  The  harbor  was  well  filled  by  mer- 
chantmen from  nearly  all  nations ;  also  we  observed  sev- 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  267 

eral  English  naval  vessels  in  port,  as  this  is  one  of 
their  rendezvous.  Among  the  shipping  the  "stars  and 
stripes"  were  conspicuous,  and  we  could  but  notice  that 
they  floated  from  more  than  half  the  vessels  in  port. 

Before  9  A.M.  the  deck  of  our  vessel  was  crowded 
with  Chinamen  of  all  descriptions.  In  one  corner  might 
be  seen  the  tailor  spreading  out  his  fancy  clothing ;  then 
the  shoemaker  with  his  shoes,  taking  the  measures  of 
such  of  the  crew  as  might  want.  In  another  part  of  the 
ship  might  be  seen  a  complete  variety  store,  with  all  de- 
scriptions of  lacquered  ware,  artificial  flowers,  silk  hand- 
kerchiefs, etc.,  all  selling  for  a  mere  song.  Washerwom- 
en running  about,  engaging  the  washing  while  the  ship 
remains  in  port ;  bumboats  alongside  with  fruit  and  con- 
fectionery ;  carpenters,  riggers,  sail-makers,  blacksmiths, 
etc.,  each  with  recommends,  looking  after  and  soliciting 
employment. 

The  decks  now  presented  a  comical  spectacle.  The 
bald  head  of  the  Chinaman  stood  out  prominent;  the 
honorable  tail,  neatly  dressed,  the  end  tipped  with  rib- 
bon, was  conspicuous  in  all.  Each  was  dressed  accord- 
ing to  his  calling ;  the  merchant  in  the  finest  silks,  and 
the  common  laborer  in  the  coarsest  garments.  Our 
Kanakas  had  their  own  sport  with  them,  never  having 
seen  a  Chinaman  before,  and  regarded  them  as  objects 
of  the  greatest  curiosity.  This  was  especially  the  case 
with  Dick  Simpson,  our  King  Mills'  native.  Not  being 
satisfied  with  viewing  them  at  a  distance,  he  walked  up 
to  one,  took  hold  of  the  long,  braided  tail  of  hair,  and 
cried  out,  laughing  heartily,  "Look  here!  what  for  all 
the  same  ?  hey  ?  All  same  big  fool.  By  golly !  I  no 
been  see  all  same  that,  my  land !"  He  then  laughed  till 
he  could  laugh  no  more,  seemingly  splitting  his  sides. 
The  poor  Chinaman  looked  at  him  in  perfect  amaze- 
ment, and,  not  appearing  to  relish  the  joke,  jabbered 
away  in  his  own  language.     This  appeared  to  astonish 


268  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE   IN 

Dick  still  more,  and  he  again  broke  forth :  "  What  this 
fellow  talking  about  ?  see  that !  By  goUj !  say,  long- 
tail,  what  you  talk  about  ?  You  no  saba  noting ;  more 
better  you  go  ashore ;  bimeby  me  eat  you — look  out !" 
Dick  had  to  stop  again  to  laugh  heartily,  the  Chinaman 
stared  so  earnestly  at  him. 

By  this  time  the  trading  had  commenced  quite  brisk- 
ly, and  we  overheard  the  following  bargain  between 
one  of  our  boys  and  a  Chinaman.  The  article  was  a 
pair  of  silk  pants,  for  which  the  merchant  wanted  the 
sum  of  one  dollar  and  fifty  cents : 

"N^o  you  don't,"  says  Jack;  'Til  give  you  three 
quarters  of  a  dollar." 

"  No  can  do ;  no  proper,"  said  the  Celestial. 

"Well,  that's  all  .I'll  give  you;  you  mustn't  come 
aboard  here  to  come  any  of  your  gouge  games ;  if  you 
do,  overboard  you  go." 

"  Three  quarters  no  can  catch.  S'pose  one  dollar  one 
quarter,  very  good,  proper." 

"  Not  a  bit  of  it ;  three  quarters,  no  more." 

"You  no  see;  pant  very  good;  No.  1 ;  three  quarters 
no  can  catch  plofit;  s'pose  you  like  one  dollar,  very 
good." 

"  Three  quarters  is  all  I'll  give  you ;  what  do  you  say, 
old  Chinaman  ?  bear  a  hand." 

"No ;  no  can  do ;  must  catch  one  dollar." 

"  Shiver  my  timbers !  old  buggerlugs,  if  you  don't 
come  to  terms  pretty  soon,  I'll  treat  you  to  a  salt-water 
bath ;  three  quarters,  or  away  you  go." 

"  Well,  s'pose  must  catch  three  quarters ;  no  good,  no 
proper ;"  and  then,  turning  to  another  of  the  men,  said, 
"  S'pose  you  like  catch  one  three  quarters,  very  good, 
proper." 

This  is  a  peculiar,  characteristic  of  the  Chinese  mer- 
chants. They  charge  about  twice  as  much  as  they  ex- 
pect to  get  for  an  article ;  and  the  only  way  to  trade 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  269 

with  them  is  to  make  them  an  offer,  and  not  vary  one 
cent  from  it ;  they  will  not  let  a  person  go  without  pur- 
chasing. 

The  mate  now  came  along,  and  started  them  all  for 
the  shore.  They  were  very  loth  to  go,  but  after  a 
while  we  rid  the  ship  of  them.  As  a  general  thing,  they 
are  expert  thieves,  and  will  carry  off  any  thing  they  can 
lay  hold  of  if  not  very  closely  watched. 

The  captain  hired  a  boat  (which  is  the  usual  custom), 
called  a  "  sanpan,"  to  attend  on  the  ship.  These  boats 
are  manned  by  a  whole  family,  as  a  general  thing,  it  con- 
stituting house  and  home  with  them.  They  are  gener- 
ally about  thirty  feet  in  length  and  six  in  width,  with 
two  mat  sails.  They  have  a  sort  of  cabin  for  the  ac- 
commodation of  passengers,  which  is  amidships,  or  in 
the  centre  of  the  boat.  .  This  cabin  also  serves  as  par- 
lor, kitchen,  sleeping-room,  and  dressing-room  for  its  oc- 
cupants. The  Chinaman  who  owned  the  "sanpan" 
hired  by  our  captain  had  a  family  consisting  of  himself, 
wife,  wife's  sister,  and  brother.  He  had  also  three  fine- 
looking,  bright  children,  who  appeared  perfectly  con- 
tented on  board  their  floating-home. 

It  is  a  singular  fact  that  the  lowest  class  of  Chinese 
are  not  allowed  to  live  on  land,  but  spend  most  of  their 
lives  upon  the  water.  "When  they  possess  a  certain  sum 
of  money  they  are  allowed  a  residence  upon  the  land, 
and  not  until  then ;  but  this  sum  is  so  large  that  very 
few  of  them  ever  accumulate  it.  They  are  born,  live, 
and  die  upon  the  water,  never  going  on  shore  except  to 
purchase  the  necessaries  of  life.  One  may  see  floating 
markets,  shoe-shops,  tailor-shops,  and,  in  fact,  all  kinds 
of  mechanical  business.  We  noticed  some  boats,  not  ex- 
ceeding ten  feet  in  length,  containing  a  family  of  five  or 
six,  with  all  their  "household  gods,"  etc.,  on  board. 

But  to  return  to  our  own  "sanpan."  The  captain  ap- 
peared active  and  intelligent,  the  females  rather  good- 


270  UFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

looking  and  sociable,  the  crew  (consisting  of  one  man) 
lazy  and  indolent.  These  first  class  sanpans  are  hired 
by  ships  while  lying  at  anchor  for  the  purpose  of  con- 
veying the  ship's  company  to  and  from  the  shore,  doing 
the  ship's  errands,  bringing  oif  provisions,  etc.,  a  kind 
of  "  man-of-all-work,"  for  which  services  they  receive 
from  ten  to  fifteen  dollars  per  month.  From  this 
amount,  say  fifteen  dollars,  a  Chinaman  will  save  ten, 
which  makes  it  quite  a  profitable  job.  It  is  an  excel- 
lent plan  also  for  the  ship  concerned,  as  it  obviates  the 
necessity  of  lowering  her  own  boats  while  in  port.  They 
sail  like  the  wind,  and  are  quicker  in  motion  than  any 
other  boat  we  ever  saw  upon  the  water.  One  can  not 
look  about  the  harbor  but  he  will  see  them  on  every 
hand,  gliding  about  with  the  swiftness  of  an  arrow,  yet 
collisions  seldom  if  ever  occur.  It  is  surprising  to  see 
the  ease  with  which  they  manage  them — two  coming 
from  opposite  directions  with  great  swiftness,  apparent- 
ly steering  for  each  other's  bows,  yet,  at  the  moment 
when  a  colhsion  appears  inevitable,  down  goes  the  helm 
of  one,  and  they  shoot  past  each  other  free  from  harm. 

The  morning  following  our  arrival  a  boat  came  along- 
side loaded  with  fresh  meat,  vegetables,  etc.  The  pro- 
prietor of  the  "  market"  soon  made  his  appearance,  and 
introduced  himself  to  the  captain  as  "  Boston  Jack,"  a 
comprador  (one  who  furnishes  ships  with  fresh  provi- 
sions). He  informed  Captain  E.  that  he  was  comprador 
to  the  American  ships  in  port,  and  wished  to  engage 
himself  as  "  comprador  to  the  Emily  Morgan."  A  bar- 
gain was  soon  struck,  and  he  was  duly  installed  in  the 
ofl&ce.  In  appearance  Boston  Jack  is  about  forty  years 
of  age,  medium  height,  very  quick  und  active,  with  a 
sharp,  keen  eye,  and  very  polite.  The  bows  he  bestow- 
ed upon  all  who  honored  themselves  by  speaking  to 
him  would  have  become  the  most  complete  and  polished 
French  gentleman. 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  271 

Dr.  Ball,  in  his  ^^  Rambles  in  Eastern  J.5za,"  thus 
speaks  of  him:  "About  a  mile  above  Wbampoa  we 
called  at  '  Boston  Jack's.'  This  is  a  Chinaman,  an  ac- 
quaintance that  my  companions  had  made  in  passing 
before.  '  Boston  Jack'  is  familiarly  known  to  the  Eu- 
ropean population  of  Hong  Kong  as  a  kind  of  inter- 
preter and  furnisher  of  provisions  for  vessels,  and  a  com- 
missioner to  provide  servants,  coolies,  and  to  make  pur- 
chases of  various  Chinese  articles.  He  was  formerly  a 
pilot,  and  is  still  connected  with  that  business,  furnish- 
ing pilots,  etc.,  and  is  ready  to  do  any  kind  of  business 
between  the  foreigners  and  Chinese.  He  is  said  to  be 
worth  a  hundred  thousand  dollars;  treated  us  to  beer, 
and  gave  us  some  to  take  on  our  way.  He  had  much 
to  say  of  his  son,  who  lives  in  New  York,  and  was  very 
polite,  inviting  us  to  call  again,"  etc. 

Hong  Kong  is  an  island,  and  not,  as  is  the  general  im' 
pression,  a  Chinese  city.  It  is  a  British  colony,  within 
a  few  miles  of  the  Chinese  coast.  It  was  Chinese  until 
the  treaty  after  the  celebrated  opium  war  ceded  it  to  the 
English.  At  that  time  it  was  inhabited  only  by  a  few 
fishermen  and  pirates.  It  is  an  elevation  of  barren 
mountains,  with  scarcely  any  vegetation,  and  is  about 
twenty-five  miles  in  circumference,  and  eight  in  diam- 
eter. Its  shores  are  generally  bold,  and  the  water  deep 
near  the  coast.  There  are,  however,  several  spots  with 
declivities  sufficiently  gradual  for  the  location  of  cities. 
The  English  government  has  taken  possession  of  these, 
and  erected  fortifications  and  barracks,  where  they  keep 
small  garrisons  of  troops.  Victoria  is  the  name  of  the 
city,  yet  it  is  hardly  known  by  any  name  but  Hong 
Kong. 

Victoria  is  on  the  north  side  of  the  island,  built  on  the 
base  and  on  the  inclination  of  a  conspicuous  mountain 
which  overlooks  the  harbor.  It  extends  about  two  and 
a  half  miles  along  the  edge  of  the  water,  and  back  on 


272  LIFE   AND    ADVENTURE    IN 

the  side  of  the  mountain  half  a  mile.  It  has  only  one 
principal  street,  called  Queen's  Eoad,  which  is  near  the 
water,  and  encircles  the  island.  There  are  several  oth- 
ers parallel  with  it,  and  from  twenty  to  forty  feet  one 
above  the  other.  The  small  cross  streets  uniting  them 
are  steep,  and  at  some  places  have  flights  of  steps  by 
which  to  ascend  and  descend.  Taking  the  zigzag  streets 
in  their  proper  order,  the  highest  houses  may  be  reach- 
ed with  a  carriage.  The  houses  are  generally  of  two  or 
three  stories,  though  many  at  the  outer  part  of  the  city, 
called  bungaloes,  are  of  one  story,  and  look  like  cottages. 
Open  to  the  country  on  the  west  of  the  city  you  will 
see  the  steep  side  of  the  mountains,  with  only  here  and 
there  a  poverty-stricken  Chinaman's  cabin.  The  ground 
is  covered  with  rocks,  a  little  grass,  and,  higher  up,  with 
brush.  The  white  buildings  conspicuous  here  and  there 
are  the  police  stations.  Following  the  road  to  the  east, 
you  enter  the  part  of  the  city  known  as  Typen-shang, 
where  the  lower  order  of  the  Chinese  reside. 

Following  the  road  as  it  winds  round  and  ascends 
upon  higher  ground,  we  come  to  the  European  part — the 
central  portion  of  Victoria.  On  the  left  is  a  row  of 
Chinamen's  shops,  beyond  which,  along  the  edge  of  the 
harbor,  are  occasionally  the  large  houses  of  Europeans. 
On  the  right  are  blocks  of  European  buildings,  rising 
one  above  another,  and  as  we  passed  them  we  could  but 
imagine  ourselves  once  more  in  a  civilized  land.  Be- 
hind these,  a  little  distance  up  the  inclined  plane,  the 
mountain  rises  abruptly,  and  to  the  eye  nearly  perpen- 
dicular, and  terminating  in  a  peak  near  three  thousand 
feet  high.  A  scanty  vegetation  of  grass  and  brambles 
there  appears,  but  there  is  little  else  than  rocks,  some  of 
which  seem  to  hang  by  nothing,  and  may  eventually, 
becoming  loosened,  roll  down  and  cut  their  way  through 
the  settlements  to  the  water. 

Passing  along,  we  come  to  the  principal  business  part 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  273 

of  tlie  city.  On  the  right  is  a  hotel,  with  blocks  of 
houses  occupied  mostly  by  English  and  Americans,  auc- 
tioneers, apothecaries,  the  club-house  of  the  merchants, 
etc.,  and  back,  short  streets  of  Chinese  mechanics.  Con- 
tinuing along  the  water  toward  the  east,  after  a  short 
interval  we  see  the  military  quarters,  which  inclose 
within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  the  showy  stone  barracks, 
parade-ground,  officers'  residences,  in  elevated  positions, 
the  church,  and  other  buildings.  Half  a  niile  farther  is 
another  fine  block  of  buildings;  then  comes  the  hos- 
pital, ship-yard,  and  a  large  ship-chandlery  establish- 
ment. Thus  the  town  or  city  of  Victoria  is  strung  out 
for  two  or  three  miles  along  the  shore. 

The  population,  including  Chinese,  is  about .  twenty- 
five  thousand.  But  a  small  portion  are  European.  Al- 
most every  nation  is  represented  here,  though  there  are 
only  a  few  of  each.  Besides  the  English,  American,  and 
Chinese,  we  find  the  French,  Spanish,  Portuguese,  Per- 
sians, Bengalese,  Javanese,  Manillamen,  German,  Italian, 
Eussian,  Danish,  Swiss,  Dutch,  Belgian,  Pole,  Arab,  Turk, 
Armenian,  Tartar,  Siamese,  African,  and  South  Amer- 
ican. 

The  streets  are  filled  with  Chinese,  and  you  continu- 
ally see  the  traveling  barber,  carrying  his  barber-shop 
with  him — cobblers,  tinkers,  pastrymen,  men  carrying 
hogs,  rabbits,  ducks,  rats,  puppies,  etc.,  already  cooked; 
and  along  the  principal  streets  you  find  the  brokers,  or 
money-changers,  with  piles  of  cash.  These  cash  are  a 
small  coin,  about  one  half  the  size  of  a  cent,  of  a  base 
metal,  and  a  square  hole  in  the  centre,  twenty-four  of 
which  are  equal  in  value  to  one  of  the  cents  of  United 
States  coin.  The  fortune-teller  or  conjurer  may  also  be 
seen,  with  his  charts,  covered  with  hieroglyphics,  spread 
before  him,  and  busily  engaged  in  penetrating  the  future 
for  some  inquisitive  Chinaman. 

The  police  force  here  is  composed  mostly  of  ^English, 
M2 


274  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

Americans,  and  Lascars,  They  are  very  effective  in 
preserving  order  among  the  Chinese,  and  a  Chinaman 
stands  more  in  awe  of  a  policeman  than  any  thing  else 
in  Hong  Kong. 

From  the  ship  the  town  looks  beautiful  at  night.  It 
was  New-year's  week  with  the  Chinese  at  this  time,  and 
their  part  of  the  town  was  brilliantly  illuminated  every 
evening.  The  thousand  brilliant  lamps,  with  an  occa- 
sional rocket  piercing  its  way  into  the  clouds  above, 
presented  to  the  beholder  a  scene  of  beauty  scarcely 
equaled,  reminding  him  of  old  legends  of  enchanted 
cities.  The  evening  gun  of  the  frigate  booms  forth, 
answered  from  the  fort;  the  bugle  call  from  the  bar- 
racks sounds  sweetly  on  the  calm  evening  air,  and  as 
its  soft,  gentle  tones  strike  our  ear,  we  almost  forget 
that  we  are  in  the  land  of  strangers,  and  remain  musing 
until  we  are  aroused  by  the  striking  of  the  frigate's  bell, 
and  the  hoarse  cry  echoed  over  the  waters  of  "All's 
weU!" 

The  day  after  our  arrival  our  ship  presented  rather  a 
busy  appearance.  The  cooper,  with  his  gang,  was  pre- 
paring casks  for  water  and  provisions ;  others  were  en- 
gaged breaking  out  the  hold  and  restowing  oil,  and  all 
hands  busy  about  something;  outside  a  gang  of  Chinese 
calkers  were  busily  engaged,  and  following  them  were 
another  gang  with  scrapers  and  brooms,  preparing  the 
ship  for  an  extra  coat  of  paint. 

The  United  States  sloop  of  war  "  Plymouth"  fired  a 
salute  on  this  day,  in  honor  of  a  visit  from  the  American 
consul.  The  report  of  her  heavy  guns  almost  deafened 
us,  and  caused  our  Kanakas  to  open  wide  their  eyes 
with  astonishment,  and  exclaim,  "  I  g-o-lly ;  I  never  been 
hear  all  the  same  that  fore !" 

On  Sunday,  February  13th,  the  British  mail  steam- 
er "  Wildfire"  arrived,  having  on  board  Governor  Bon- 
ham,  who  had  been  home  to  England  on  a  visit.     He 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  275 

was  received  by  a  salute  from  the  men-of-war  and  the 
fort,  and  escorted  to  his  residence  by  the  military  sta- 
tioned here.  In  the  eastern  part  of  the  town  are  situ- 
ated the  barracks ;  the  buildings,  which  are  of  stone,  are 
fine,  large,  and  comfortable,  and  the  grounds  ample  for 
military  evolutions.  The  59th  regiment  of  infantry,  a 
company  of  sappers  and  miners,  and  one  artillery  com- 
pany, were  stationed  here  at  this  time.  They  were 
composed  of  fine,  healthy-appearing  men,  and  when  on 
parade  presented  a  brilliant  appearance. 

We  found  three  churches  here — one  a  fine,  large  Epis- 
copal church,  built  of  stone ;  a  Eoman  Catholic,  and  a 
third  a  "  Union"  church,  as  it  was  called,  attended  by 
persons  of  all  creeds  and  denominations. 

There  are  also  several  very  fine  hotels  here,  the  prin- 
cipal of  which  is  "Brooks'  Hotel."  This  is  generally 
the  head-quarters  of  the  naval  ofl&cers.  The  house  is 
kept  on  the  European  plan,  is  very  commodious,  and, 
above  all,  very  neat  and  clean.  Their  charges  are  in 
proportion,  as  they  intend  their  guests  shall  pay  for 
what  they  have  in  good  round  sums. 

While  on  shore  shortly  after  our  arrival,  Dick  Simp- 
son, our  "  Group"  native,  saw  a  man  pass  on  horseback. 
The  poor  fellow  appeared  dumb  with  astonishment ;  at 
length  he  exclaimed,  "What  for  man,  he  on  big  dog  !  I 
g-o-lly ;  I  no  been  see  all  same  that  my  place ;  all  the 
same  that  'Merica?"  On  being  answered  in  the  a£S.rma- 
tive  his.  wonder  still  increased,  if  possible,  and  it  proved 
a  hard  task  to  convince  him  that  it  was  not  a  dog^  but  a 
horse.  "  Yes,  he  big  dog ;  'spose  me  no  saby ;  he  all  the 
same  dog,"  he  would  say.  In  order  to  satisfy  his  curi- 
osity, we  took  him  to  a  horse,  and  told  him  to  examine 
for  himself  After  having  expressed  himself  as  satisfied, 
he  wished  to  know  "  where  he  came  from."  We  ex- 
plained this  as  far  as  lay  in  our  power  to  do,  and  after 
we  ceased  he  chuckled,  and  told  what  yarns  he  would 


276  LIFE   AND   ADVENTURE   IN 

spin  when  he  arrived  at  his  "land."  "Kanaka  my 
place  all  same  fool ;  he  no  been  see  nothing !" 

As  we  were  the  only  sperm  whaler  in  port,  we  attract- 
ed considerable  attention,  especially  from  the  Yankee 
men-of-war's-men,  as  they  all  lay  in  close  proximity  to 
us,  many  of  whom  paid  us  visits,  some  to  purchase  shells, 
whale's  teeth,  and  other  curiosities,  others  to  learn  the 
modus  operandi  of  the  capture  of  the  sperm  whale.  The 
particulars  of  the  chase  appeared  greatly  to  interest 
them,  as  they  never  before  had  the  opportunity  of  listen- 
ing to  such  narrations,  or  of  inspecting  the  different  ap- 
paratus for  fastening  and  killing  the  whale,  hoisting  in 
the  blubber,  trying  out,  etc. 

During  one  of  these  visits  from  the  captain  and  one  of 

the  lieutenants  of  the  store-ship  "  Supply,"  Tom  W , 

of  whom  we  have  before,  spoken,  being  full  of  the  old 
Nick,  as  usual,  "button-holed"  the  lieutenant  at  once, 
and  proceeded  to  show  him  the  ship  and  whaling  craft. 
He  soon  had  the  ofi&cer  down  in  the  hold,  among  the 
greasy  oil  casks,  to  show  him  the  manner  of  stowing 
down  the  oil.  He  kept  on  a  straight  countenance,  and 
told  his  guest  he  supposed  he  wished  to  see- the  whole 
show!  The  lieutenant  did  not  appear  to  relish  the 
sport,  as  he  had  already  finely  besmeared  his  coat  and 
pants  with  dirty  grease;  and  on  remarking  it,  Tom  coolly 
replied,  "  Oh !  that  is  nothing ;  you  should  try  a  voyage 
whaling;  you  would  not  mind  the  grease  much!"  After 
piloting  him  through  all  the  dirtiest  parts  of  the  ship,  he 
at  last  brought  up  in  the  cooTvS  galley.  The  mate,  who 
had  been  entertaining  the  captain  of  the  "  Supply,"  now 
came  in  search  of  the  lieutenant,  and  what  was  his  sur- 
prise to  see  him  cozily  seated  in  the  "galley"  with  Tom, 
who  had  him  by  the  button-hole,  very  earnestly  explain- 
ing how  nicely  our  cooking  was  done,  and  the  excellent 
virtues  of  the  stove.  The  mate  now  came  to  the  relief 
of  the  peftered  officer,  and  was  walking  off  with  him, 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  277 

when  Tom  marclaed  after,  called  him,  extended  his  hand, 
and  bade  him  good-by  with  much  warmth,  inviting  him 
very  cordially  to  call  again.  The  lieutenant  could  not 
refuse  his  hand,  and,  returning  a  slight  shake,  turned 
away,  looking  daggers.  However,  we  believe,  on  learn- 
ing the  particulars,  being  too  much  a  gentleman  to  show 
anger,  he  laughed  heartily  at  the  joke,  and  before  leav- 
ing the  ship  invited  Tom  to  pay  him  a  visit.  Tom 
thanked  him,  and  promised  to  avail  himself  of  the  honor 
and  pleasure. 

On  Wednesday,  February  16th,  Sir  William  Bon- 
ham,  the  English  governor,  visited  the  steam  frigate 
"Susquehanna,"  and  on  leaving  was  honored  by  a 
salute,  the  cross  of  St.  George  at  the  fore  royal-mast 
head.  This  vessel  is  the  flag-ship  of  Commodore  Au- 
LiCK,  who  was  daily  expecting  the  arrival  of  Commo- 
dore Perry  to  relieve  him  and  take  command  of  the 
squadron. 

The  officers  on  board  the  several  naval  vessels  in  port 
appeared  very  courteous  and  gentlemanly,  and  possess- 
ing a  dignity  that  fully  became  their  position.  We  felt 
proud  of  them  as  American  naval  officers,  and  willing 
that  our  navy  and  our  country  should  be  judged  by 
them.  There  were,  however,  with  them,  as  with  every 
thing,  a  few  exceptions.  The  lowest  class  of  naval  com- 
missioned officers,  familiarly  known  as  "middies,"  ap- 
peared altogether  too  large  and  nice  for  even  the  com- 
pany of  the  commodore,  and  would  strut  about  the  decks 
of  their  ship,  or  the  streets  of  the  city,  deeming  any  one 
who  could  not  sport  an  officer's  uniform  entirely  beneath 
their  notice.  We  are  glad,  for  the  honor  of  our  navy 
and  country,  that  this  class  is  small,  and  we  would  that 
it  were  less. 

Wishing  to  visit  the  barracks  of  the  soldiers  and  see 
them  in  their  every-day  life,  we  embraced  the  opportu- 
nity of  an  invitation  from  one  of  the  officers,  whose  ac- 


278  LIFE  AJSTD  ADVENTUEE  IN 

quaintance  we  had  previously  formed,  and  paid  them  a 
visit.  We  must  confess  to  a  surprise  in  finding  the  ex- 
cellent order  and  extreme  cleanliness  that  every  where 
prevailed.  The  rooms  were  large  and  well  ventilated, 
and  the  cots  placed  in  rows  along  the  walls.  From  all 
*  appearances,  the  soldiers  must  have  easy  times  and  com- 
fortable quarters.  They  are  compelled  to  drill  one  hour 
each  day,  which  usually  takes  place  in  the  forenoon ; 
from  that  time  until  3  P.M.  they  are  occupied  in  taking 
care  of  and  cleaning  their  arms  and  accoutrements. 
From  that  time  until  8  P.M.  they  are  at  liberty  to  go 
where  they  please.  The  evening  gun  is  then  fired,  and 
all  are  required  to  be  within  the  gates  at  half  past  8,  at 
which  time  each  room  is  visited,  and  those  absent  after 
9  P.M.  are  put  under  guard  as  soon  as  they  return, 
and  are  punished  according  to  the  circumstances  of  the 
case. 

For  their  amusement,  a  very  good  theatre  is  connect- 
ed with  the  barracks,  the  actors  belonging  to  the  regi- 
ment. We  learn  that  this  is  beneficial,  inasmuch  as  it 
prevents  many  of  them  from  seeking  pleasure  in  the 
numerous  drinking-houses  which  infest  certain  portions 
of  the  city ;  a  pleasure  that  many  of  them  appeared  dis- 
posed to  seek,  but  which  is  generally  dear  bought,  as  it 
is  sure  to  be  followed  by  a  punishment  proportionate  to 
the  offense. 

Near  the  Episcopal  church  stands  the  fort,  which,  from 
its  elevated  position,  commands  the  town.  The  battery 
is  immediately  on  the  beach,  and  has  a  fair  sweep  at  the 
shipping.  The  authorities  find  it  necessary  to  keep  a 
strict  watch  over  the  Chinese  population  to  prevent  an 
insurrection.  They  only  lack  the  courage ;  their  hatred 
of  the  English  is  complete,  and  the  will  to  rise  and  mur- 
der every  "  outside  barbarian"  in  the  city  is  not  wanting 
in  them. 

One  can  scarcely  pass  through  the  streets  but  he  is 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  279 

saluted  with,  the  cry  of  "  Kum  my  shop;  can  sell  much 
too  chipp ;  no  wanchee  buy  sum  littley  ting?"  In  fact, 
the  Chinese  portion  of  Hong  Kong  is  a  perfect  Chatham 
Street.  Going  into  a  shop  one  morning,  we  began  look- 
ing at  various  articles,  the  shopkeeper  pulling  down  all 
his  wares  to  show  us.  After  selecting  several  articles, 
and  inquiring  the  sum  total  of  the  bill,  we  were  inform- 
ed it  was  fourteen  and  a  half  dollars.  We  indignantly 
turned  to  leave,  when  he  accosted  us  with, 

" How  much  can  catchee  them  tings?" 

We  told  him  "  six  dollars." 

"  No  can  do ;  no  can  catch  plofit,  s'pose  six  dollar." 

"  Very  good,"  we  informed  him,  and  again  turned  to 
leave,  when  he  called  to  us  the  second  time,  and,  after 
some  bantering,  told  us  we  might  have  them  for  six  dol- 
lars. Had  we  not  have  known  the  price  of  such  arti- 
cles previous  to  this,  we  might  have  paid  him  more 
than  we  did,  but  we  knew  they  were  all  Jews  in  trad- 
ing, and  were  determined  not  to  allow  the  rascal  to 
cheat  us. 

They  are  great  rascals,  these  Chinese  merchants.  The 
currency  here  is  gold,  silver,  and  copper,  and  they  are 
very  cautious  in  regard  to  it,  being  continually  on  the 
alert  for  spurious  coin ;  yet,  if  they  have  the  opportu- 
nity, will  put  off  any  quantity  of  it,  and  then  lie  out  of 
it  in  the  most  barefaced,  impudent  manner  imaginable. 
Spanish  and  Mexican  dollars  command  a  premium  of 
from  four  to  six  cents ;  other  silver  they  will  not  take 
for  its  full  value.  An  American  half  dollar  passes  for 
but  twenty -five  cents  among  them.  On  receiving  a  piece 
of  money,  they  inspect  it  very  minutely,  and  if  they  dis- 
cover the  least  iBaw  or  defect  in  it,  they  refuse  it  as  bad ; 
or,  as  they  say,  "chop  dollar — no  proper;"  yet,  if  they 
have  the  opportunity,  will  pass  the  same  kind  on  the 
purchaser  in  giving  change.  If  one  of  them  refuse  to 
take  such  money,  it  is  only  necessary  to  whisper  the 


280  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

word  "policeman"  in  his  ear,  and  all  is  immediately 
light. 

A  seaman,  who  had  recently  come  on  shore  to  live 
from  a  California  ship,  received  a  bad  dollar  from  one 
of  these  merchants.  On  discovering  it,  he  proceeded  to 
the  shop  and  called  for  a  backgammon-board.  Choos- 
ing a  beautiful  one,  finished  with  rich  gilt  work,  he  in- 
quired the  price.     The  Chinaman  said  "  three  dollars." 

"No,  no,  John  Chinaman";  s'pose  me  no  saby  you? 
me  live  too  long  Hong  Kong ;  .me  no  fool." 

"  Well,  s'pose  can  catchee  two  dollar,  he  very  good?" 

"  No,  I  give  you  one  dollar ;  proper." 

"  Hiyah !  how  can  do !  no  proper !" 

"  S'pose  you  like  one  dollar,  very  good ;  s'pose  you 
no  like,  very  good." 

"Me  likey  one  dollar;  two  dollar  more  good;  prop- 
er ;  you  no  see ;  number  one,  this  fellow ;  alia  same 
'nother  pigeon  (merchant)  sell  five  dollar." 

"  Me  no  give  more  one  dollar;  plenty  Chinaman  speak 
one  dollar  proper." 

"  Hiyah !  Chinaman  bloody  liar !  no  speak  good ;  too 
much  lie.  S'pose  you  like  catchee  one  dollar  half,  prop- 
er ;  s'pose  one  dollar,  no  can  do." 

"Well,  s'pose  you  no  like  one  dollar,  me  go  'nother 
shop." 

"No  proper;  s'pose  you  cum  my  shop,  buy  plenty, 
you  catchee  him  one  dollar." 

"  Oh,  certainly.     I  shall  buy  you  out  before  I  leave." 

Accordingly,  he  picked  up  the  board,  and  threw  down 
the  same  piece  he  had  received  from  this  merchant  the 
day  previous.  On  seeing  this  the  Chinaman  flew  into 
a  great  passion,  and  called  for  his  board  to  be  returned 
to  him ;  but  it  was  too  late ;  the  purchaser  had  depart- 
ed with  it  under  his  arm.  However,  he  was  not  to  be 
got  rid  of  so  easily;  after  the  sailor  he  went,  shouting 
after  him  to  give  up  his  board.     The  sailor  heeded  him 


THE  SOUTH   PACIFIC.  281 

not,  but  proceeded  to  his  boarding-liouse,  threw  the  board 
into  his  chest,  closed  it,  and  sat  down  on  the  lid.  Pres- 
ently in  came  the  Chinaman  in  a  hot  rage,  and  demand- 
ed his  backgammon-board.  Upon  this  the  sailor  jump- 
ed up,  seized  the  Chinaman  by  the  collar,  who  com- 
menced turning  pale,  and,  shaking  him  rather  roughly, 
demanded  why  he  gave  him  "  that  bad  dollar."  The 
poor  fellow  protested  his  innocence,  denying  the  charge. 
This  dodge  would  not  do ;  so,  shouting  to  a  landlord  to 
bring  in  a  policeman,  the  Chinaman  darted  for  the  door, 
and  retraced  his  steps  with  all  possible  speed. 

The  females  are  kept  under  great  subjection,  being 
looked  upon  as  little  better  than  slaves.  They  are  not 
allowed  to  be  educated,  but  are  kept  in  ignorance.  The 
higher  classes  dress  very  richly,  wearing  many  orna- 
ments of  gold.  In  some  things  we  think  they  show 
much  more  good  sense  than  our  American  ladies.  Fash- 
ion, with  them,  does  not  change  every  month,  yet  they 
all  dress  in  good  taste.  Their  manner  of  dressing  the 
hair  is  decidedly  superior  to  that  of  our  own  fair  coun- 
trywomen. On  their  wrists  they  wear  heavy  gold  brace- 
lets, generally  placed  there  when  quite  young,  and,  were 
it  not  for  their  small  feet,  they  would  make  a  good  ap- 
pearance. This  deformity,  for  we  can  call  it  nothing 
less,  causes  them  to  walk  as  though  they  were  crippled. 
Many  of  them  are  obliged  to  use  the  cane  to  assist  them, 
and  they  always  appear  as  if  it  caused  them  pain  to 
walk.  The  small  feet,  we  were  credibly  informed,  are 
confined  to  the  aristocracy.  They  appear  more  like 
club-feet  than  natural  ones,  the  ankle  and  foot  having 
both  become  one.  The  females  are  much  better-looking 
than  the  men.  We  seldom  noticed  the  high  cheek-bones, 
or  eyes  so  wide  apart ;  and,  moreover,  their  heads  are 
covered  by  natures  covering — fine  black  hair.  In  com- 
plexion they  resemble  the  brunette. 

We  noticed  one  very  singular  fact.     As  many  times 


282  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

as  we  visited  tlie  shops  of  the  merchants,  we  never  saw 
any  females  in  them,  not  even  belonging  to  the  mer- 
chant's family,  who  generally  reside  in  the  same  build- 
ing. We  often  wondered  at  this,  so  different  from  our 
own  customs ;  but  then  we  recollected  that  we  were 
"  outside  barbarians,"  and  could  not,  of  course,  be  ex- 
pected to  know  what  was  right.  On  inquiring  of  "  Ac- 
owo,"  a  merchant  of  high  standing,  the  reason  of  this 
custom,  his  only  answer  was,  "  No  proper  alia  same,  that 
pigeon ;  no  good."     Very  satisfactory,  truly ! 

On  Sunday  the  stores  and  shops  of  the  Chinese  are 
kept  open  as  usual.  They  regard  no  day  as  a  Sabbath. 
Gambling  is  carried  on  to  a  very  great  extent  among  all 
classes.  On  entering  a  shop  at  almost  any  time,  you 
will  see  a  number  of  persons  engaged  in  gambling  in  the 
rear  portion  of  the  room.  The  cards  are  long,  narrow 
slips  of  pasteboard,  with  numerous  Chinese  characters  or 
devices  inscribed  upon  them.  The  countenances  of  the 
players  betrayed  all  the  varieties  of  expression,  from  that 
of  the  fortunate  to  the  unlucky  gamester.  One  may  be- 
hold the  happy  and  contented  look  of  the  winner ;  again 
may  be  seen  the  countenance  livid,  lips  compressed,  eyes 
glaring,  and  the  whole  face  betraying  the  intense  excite- 
ment of  the  loser. 

It  was  unsafe  at  this  time  to  walk  the  streets  of  Hong 
Kong  at  night,  particularly  in  Typen-shang,  or  the  Chi- 
nese portion,  or  among  the  boatmen  who  congregate  on 
the  wharves.  Although  the  police  were  extremely  vigi- 
lant, very  frequently  was  the  pedestrian  waylaid,  knock- 
ed down,  and  robbed.  The  boatmen  were  not  to  be 
trusted,  as  many  cases  occurred  where  seamen,  returning 
from  the  shore  to  their  respective  ships  at  night,  were 
either  drugged  or  knocked  in  the  head,  their  pockets  ri- 
fled, and  bodies  thrown  overboard.  An  officer  attached 
to  the  steam  frigate  Susquehanna,  while  returning  to  the 
ship,  was  thus  treated.     His  body  was  stripped  of  its 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  283 

clothing,  and  then  thrown  overboard,  his  murderers  sup- 
posing him  dead.  However,  the  water  revived  him,  and, 
being  an  excellent  swimmer,  he  gained  the  nearest  ves- 
sel in  a  weak  and  nearly  exhausted  state.  Another  in- 
stance came  to  our  notice  while  there.  The  master  of 
one  of  the  American  merchantmen  in  port,  while  walk- 
ing through  the  streets  of  the  Chinese  portion  of  the 
town  in  broad  daylight,  was  seized  from  behind,  and  his 
gold  watch  taken  from  him.  As  soon  as  possible  he 
gave  the  alarm,  and  the  rascal  attempted  flight.  He  was 
soon  captured ;  not,  however,  until,  seeing  escape  impos- 
sible, he  dashed  the  watch  against  a  stone  building,  thus 
destroying  it.  The  punishment  for  theft,  we  were  in- 
formed, is  cutting  off  the  hair  of  the  culprit.  As  this  is 
their  greatest  pride,  they  are  disgraced  forever  when 
they  lose  their  "  tails ;"  and  some  of  them  have  been 
known,  feeling  the  disgrace  so  keenly,  to  proceed  to  the 
grave  of  a  recently-interred  Chinaman,  rob  the  dead  of 
its  ornamental  appendage,  and  splice  or  fasten  it  upon 
their  own  in  such  a  manner  as  to  escape  detection ; 
then  remove  to  some  place  where  they  were  not  known.- 
Many  are  seen,  however,  with  no  tails,  and,  like  the  fox 
in  the  fable,  are  shunned  even  by  their  own  compan- 
ions, who  have  the  same  desire  for  plunder,  yet  lack  the 
courage  to  carry  it  out. 

While  walking  through  the  streets  of  the  city  in  search 
of  adventure  one  day,  we  were  startled  by  a  most  hor- 
rid din,  and,  looking  up,  saw  approaching  a  band  of  mu- 
sicians, blowing  and  beating  their  instruments  for  dear 
life.  Following  this  were  the  bearers  of  a  cof&n,  which 
was  placed  upon  a  bier,  the  coffin  resembling  very  much 
in  shape  the  trunk  of  a  tree,  with  the  larger  or  spread- 
ing part  for  the  head  of  the  deceased,  who,  we  were  in- 
formed, was  the  "  head"  of  a  family.  Next  came  the 
mourners — the  wife  and  children  of  the  deceased — dress- 
ed in  pure  white,  which  is  their  color  for  mourning.    A 


284  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE   IN 

number  of  tlie  friends  of  the  deceased,  with  about  twen- 
ty American  sailors,  "  slightly  elevated,"  brought  up  the 
rear.  The  whole  procession  was  going  on  "  a  run" — 
music,  mourners,  and  all  hands — "  running  away  from 
Josh,"  as  Boston  Jack  informed  us,  "  Josh"  is  their  evil 
spirit,  and  they  believe  that  if  they  can  get  the  deceased 
into  the  ground  "  in  a  hurry,"  Josh  will  not  trouble  him, 
especially  if  music  is  used  to  frighten  him ;  and  we  could 
not  but  think  that  the  "  music  by  the  band,"  together 
with  the  shouts  and  yells  of  the  drunken  sailors,  was 
enough  to  frighten  his  Satanic  majesty  himself,  and  drive 
him  out  of  the  city.  We  stood  viewing  the  procession 
until  they  passed  from  sight,  and  then  came  to  the  sage 
conclusion  that  "  it  takes  all  kinds  of  people  to  form  a 
world." 

They  are  very  strict  in  their  laws  about  marriage  in 
one  sense,  and  rather  loose  in  another.  A  Chinaman 
can  have  but  one  wife,  who,  in  marrying,  assumes  his 
name ;  but  he  is  allowed  as  many  handmaids  as  he 
chooses  to  have.  Thus  they  avoid  polygamy,  and  still 
practice  it.  Marriage,  also,  between  those  bearing  the 
same  name  is  unlawful.  The  grounds  of  divorce  are 
seven,  some  of  which  are  rather  amusing.  The  first  is 
barrenness ;  the  others  are  adultery,  disobedience  to  the 
husband's  parents,  talkativeness,  thieving,  ill-temper,  and 
inveterate  infirmities.  Any  of  these,  however,  may  be 
set  aside  by  three  circumstances :  the  wife  having  mourn- 
ed for  the  husband's  parents ;  the  family,  since  marriage, 
having  acquired  wealth ;  and  the  wife  having  no  parent 
to  receive  her  back.  It  is,  in  all  cases,  disreputable  for 
a  widow  to  marry  again,  and  in  some  instances,  especial- 
ly those  of  a  particular  rank,  it  is  illegal. 

From  the  age  of  ten  the  females  are  kept  very  se- 
cluded, and  have  no  opportunity  of  intercourse  with  the 
other  sex  until  they  are  married.  In  fact,  they  never 
see  their  intended  until  the  time  of  marriage.     Some  of 


THE   SOUTH  PACIFIC.  285 

them,  we  should  judge,  would  be  sadly  disappointed 
when  they  come  to  look  at  each  other  for  the  first  time. 
All  that  they  know  of  each  other  before  marriage  is 
through  their  fathers,  mothers,  or  aunts,  which,  we  should 
think,  would  be  rather  unsatisfactory.  Yet  we  are  in- 
clined to  the  belief  that  they  do,  by  some  hook  or 
crook,  manage  sometimes  to  get  a  glimpse  of  each  oth- 
er's faces  before  marriage,  else  how  could  the  following 
lines  have  come  into  existence,  especially  the  third  line 
of  the  third  verse  ?  It  is  said  to  be  Chinese,  though  we 
rather  incline  to  the  contrary : 

"Oh,  daughter  of  the  great  Ching-Chum, 
Whose  eyes  like  Kasian  diamonds  glow, 
And  wilt  thou  love  thy  Fa-fe-Fum, 
My  sweet,  my  lovely  Ho-ang  Ho? 

"The  swans  their  downy  plumage  lave 
Where  Lano's  wandering  waters  flow ; 
But  can  the  swans  of  Lano's  wave 
Compare  with  thee,  my  Ho-ang  Ho  ? 

"  Six  moons  have  traveled  through  the  skies, 
And  softly  gleamed  on  Kifing-0, 
Since  first  thy  beauty  met  my  eyes, 
Light  of  my  soul,  my  Ho-ang  Ho. 

"  Oh !  when  I  clasp  thee  to  my  breast, 
Chang-fee,  to  whom  the  nations  bow, 
Shall  not  be  half  so  truly  bless'd 
As  Fa-fe-Fum  and  Ho-ang  Ho !" 

The  birth  of  a  son  is  an  occasion  of  great  rejoicing ; 
the  family,  or  surname,  is  first  given,  and  then  the  "  milk 
name,"  which  is  generally  some  diminutive  endearment. 
A  month  after  the  event,  the  relatives  and  friends  joint- 
ly send  the  child  a  silver  plate,  on  which  are  engraven, 
"  Long  life,  honors,  and  felicity."  The  boys  are  trained 
in  behavior  and  ceremonies  from  their  earliest  child- 
hood ;  and  at  four  or  five  they  commence  reading.  The 
importance  of  general  education  was  felt  so  long  since 
in  China,  that  a  work,  written  before  the  Christian  era. 


286  LIFE  AKD  ADVENTURE  IN 

speaks  of  the  ancient  system  of  instruction,  wMcli  re- 
quired that  every  town  and  village,  down  to  only  a  few 
families,  should  have  a  common  school.  The  wealthy 
Chinese  employ  private  teachers,  and  others  send  their 
sons  to  day-schools,  which  are  so  well  attended  that  the 
fees  paid  by  each  boy  are  extremely  small.  In  large 
towns  evening  schools  are  held,  that  those  who  are  com- 
pelled to  labor  through  the  day  may  not  be  without  the 
advantages  of  education. 

A  Chinese  school  is  a  great  curiosity  to  an  American. 
They  all  study  aloud,  and  it  appears  to  cause  no  confu- 
sion with  either  teachers  or  scholars,  though  it  would  in 
a  Yankee  school.  But  their  appearance  is  the  greatest 
curiosity.  Such  a  set  of  bald  heads  with  young  bodies, 
their  only  hair  a  braided  queue  hanging  down  the  back — 
such  young  faces  in  the  dress  of  old  men,  in  frocks,  leg- 
gins,  and  large  shoes,  with  boys'  motions  and  actions, 
and  the  medley  of  voices — such  a  variety  of  grotesque 
sounds  and  tones,  is  a  very  novel  sight,  and  would  make 
a  laughable  picture ;  but  it  would  be  necessary  to  pro- 
duce the  sounds  to  give  a  correct  idea  of  a  Chinese 
school. 

Of  all  the  objects  of  the  care  of  the  Chinese,  there  are 
none  to  which  they  so  religiously  attend  as  the  tombs  of 
their  ancestors^  for  they  believe  that  any  neglect  is  sure 
to  be  followed  by  worldly  misfortune.  It  is  here  that 
they  manifest  a  religious  zeal  which  is  hardly  shown  to- 
ward their  gods.  Their  ceremonies  connected  with  the 
treatment  of  the  dead  are  of  a  striking  character.  Aside 
from  the  burial  service,  of  which  we  have  already  spoken, 
there  are  others  commanded  by  their  ritual  to  be  per- 
formed. The  original  and  strict  period  of  mourning  is 
for  a  parent  three  years,  but  this  is  commonly  reduced 
in  practice  to  twenty-seven  months.  Full  three  years 
must  elapse  from  the  death  of  a  parent  before  a  child 
can  marry. 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  287 

A  pleasing  anecdote  in  relation  to  filial  piety  is  re- 
lated of  a  youth  named  Ouang-Ouci-Yuen.  Having  lost 
his  mother,  who  was  all  that  was  dear  to  him,  he  passed 
the  three  years  of  mourning  in  a  hut,  employing  him- 
self in  his  retirement  composing  verses  in  honor  of  his 
parent.  These  are  quoted  by  the  Chinese  as  models  of 
sentiment  and  tenderness.  The  period  of  his  mourning 
having  elapsed,  he  returned  to  his  former  residence,  but 
did  not  forget  his  filial  affection.  His  mother  had  al- 
ways expressed  great  fears  of  thunder,  and,  when  it  was 
stormy,  would  request  her  son  not  to  leave  her.  There- 
fore, as  soon  as  he  heard  a  storm  coming  on,  he  would 
hasten  to  his  mother's  grave,  saying  softly  to  her,  '•''lam 
liere^  raotlierP 

The  disposal  of  parental  property  by  will  is  restricted 
to  the  legal  heirs.  The  eldest  son  has  a  double  portion, 
or,  more  correctly  speaking,  the  property  may  be  said  to 
descend  to  the  eldest  son  in  trust  for  all  the  younger 
brothers.  Over  them  he  has  considerable  authority. 
They  generally  live  together,  and  club  their  shares,  by 
which  means  families  in  this  over-peopled  country  are 
more  easily  supported  than  they  otherwise  would  be. 
The  constant  exhortations  in  the  "Book  of  Sacred 
Edicts"  point  to  this  usage,  and  the  necessity  for  it,  as 
they  relate  to  the  preservation  of  union  and  concord 
among  kindred  and  their  families. 

"We  are  informed  that  the  crime  of  infanticide  pre- 
vails here  to  a  great  extent,  especially  as  regards  female 
infants.  They  consider  it  a  great  tax  to  bring  them  up 
and  support  them,  as  they  think  they  receive  no  partic- 
ular benefit  from  so  doing.  This  crime  is  more  com- 
mon among  the  poorer  classes,  who,  from  their  poverty, 
feel  unable  to  support  them.  To  male  children  they  ap- 
pear much  attached. 

We  were  awakened  one  morning  by  the  heavy  guns 
of  the  "Susquehanna,"  and  at  first  could  not  imagine 


288  LIFE   AND   ADVENTURE   IN 

the  caiise.  But  on  gaming  the  deck  and  looking  around 
we  saw  all  our  national  vessels  with  their  gayest  colors 
flying,  and  smoke  issuing  from  their  sides.  We  then 
recollected  it  was  the  ever-to-be-remembered  22d  of 
February,  the  anniversary  birthday  of  our  dearly-loved 
Washington,  the  best  and  greatest  man  that  ever  lived. 
With  great  pride  did  we  reflect  that,  so  far  from  our 
own  dear  land  even,  his  name  and  memory  were  revered, 
not  only  by  his  own  countrymen,  but  by  the  descendants 
of  those  who  would  once  have  gloried  in  his  defeat  and 
death.  The  English  naval  vessels  also  dressed  themselves 
in  gaj  flags,  the  ever-beautiful  stars  and  stripes  flying 
at  the  foremast  head,  and  following  our  own  vessels  in 
a  national  salute  of  thirty -one  guns.  Determined  not  to 
be  outdone  hy  foreigners,  after  all  the  men-of-war  in  port 
had  ceased  firing,  the  "  Emily  Morgan"  hoisted  the  stars 
and  stripes  at  the  mizzen  peak,  and  other  colors  at  the 
fore,  main,  and  mizzen  trucks,  brought  her  "six-pounder" 
to  the  gangway,  and  belched  forth.  This  proceeding 
created  great  astonishment  among  the  government  ves- 
sels, who  little  expected  to  see  a  whaler  saluting  the  an- 
niversary-day. But  why  not?  we  thought,  and  fired 
our  thirty-one  guns,  ending  with  a  hearty  "three  times 
three,"  which  made  the  old  harbor  ring  again.  The  band 
from  the  "Susquehanna"  now  struck  up  "Hail  Colum- 
bia," which  seemed  at  once  to  transport  us  to  the  home 
of  our  beloved  Washington,  our  oivn  dearly-loved 
home.  The  house  of  the  American  consul  was  thrown 
open  to  visitors,  and  we  embraced  the  opportunity  of 
calling  and  paying  our  respects.  We  there  met  many 
of  our  countrymen,  who  appeared  to  us  like  old  friends, 
meeting  at  such  a  place  and  on  such  an  occasion. 

While  rambling  through  the  city,  we  called  at  the 
rooms  of  a  Chinese  artist,  and  there  saw  some  beautiful 
paintings,  mostly  landscapes.  The  portraits  were  not  as 
well  executed,  the  majority  being  mere  daubs.     They 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  289 

appear  greatly  defective  in  painting  the  human  figure, 
not  having  correct  ideas  of  proportion,  or  arrangement 
of  lights  and  shades.  Some  of  the  paintings  represent- 
ing groups  looked  really  ridiculous ;  but  still,  if  they 
have  a  picture  to  copy,  they  do  it  very  finely. 

Their  powers  of  imitation,  it  is  said,  are  not  excelled 
by  any  people,  but  they  seemingly  have  no  inventive 
faculties.  Yet  we  saw  some  things  that  would  go  to 
contradict  this  theory ;  and  there  is  an  anecdote  which 
was  told  us  by  a  citizen  of  Hong  Kong,  who  vouched  for 
its  accuracy,  that  tends  rather  to  disprove  it,  although 
the  idea  carried  out  was  not,  perhaps,  strictly  an  original 
one.  At  the  close  of  the  celebrated  "  opium  war,"  some 
manufacturers  at  Shefiield,  England,  hearing  of  the  cel- 
ebrated imitative  powers  of  the  Chinese,  sent  to  Hong 
Kong  a  quantity  of  the  finest  cambric  needles,  request- 
ing their  agent  to  ascertain  if  they  could  be  imitated  by 
the  Chinese.  The  agent,  accordingly,  took  some  of  them 
to  a  Chinese  cutler,  and,  telling  him  what  was  wanted, 
left  them.  In  a  few  days  the  needles  were  returned, 
with  another  package  precisely  similar,  except  that  the 
needles  manufactured  by  the  Chinaman  all  had  eyes  nice- 
ly drilled  and  finished  in  the  points  of  them!  The  China- 
man called  the  next  day  after  he  had  sent  the  package, 
and  requested  the  Englishman  to  send  his  needles  to 
England,  and  ascertain  if  they  could  be  imitated.  It  is 
needless  to  say  that  Johnny  Bull  never  sent  John  China- 
man any  more  cambric  needles  to  imitate. 

Still,  if  you  wish  an  article  made,  they  must  have  a 
copy,  and  that  copy  will  be  strictly  followed.  An  anec- 
dote illustrating  this  is  related — the  truth  of  which  we 
do  not  vouch  for,  however — of  an  English  midshipman, 
who  wished  half  a  dozen  pairs  of  pants  made,  of  blue 
cloth.  Accordingly,  he  selected  his  tailor,  gave  him  the 
order,  and  left  a  pair  as  a  pattern.  It  so  happened  that 
this  pair  had  a  small  patch  on  the  seat,  and  was  minus 

N 


290  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

several  buttons ;  and  when  tlie  new  pants  came  on 
board,  very  neatly  made,  eacb  had  a  similar  patch,  and 
the  same  number  of  buttons  missing — the  Chinaman 
charging  for  the  extra  sewing.  As  may  be  supposed, 
the  middy  was  in  a  great  rage ;  but  all  the  satisfaction 
he  could  get  was  that  they  were  made  exactly  like  the 
pattern  left. 

The  Chinese  manufacture  a  liquor  which  they  call 
"  sam  shu,"  which  is  very  intoxicating,  and  of  which 
they  drink  large  quantities.  It  often  happens  that  they 
entice  our  naval  seamen  to  partake  of  this  liquor,  and 
they  are  as  surely  robbed  as  they  do  partake  of  it,  for 
it  is  almost  always  drugged  by  them  for  the  purpose, 
that  they  may  the  easier  rob  poor  Jack  of  his  liberty- 
money,  or  any  thing  else  they  can  carry  off.  On  awak- 
ing, finding  himself  stripped  of  every  thing  by  the  ras- 
cals, there  is  no  resource  for  him  but  to  return  to  his 
ship,  which  is  done.  One  would  think  that  this  treat- 
ment once  would  be  sufficient ;  yet  it  is  practiced  upon 
some  many  times.  Forgetting  their  former  follies,  they 
rush  again  into  the  embrace  of  the  soul-destroying,  mad- 
dening cup. 

Having  a  desire  to  see  something  of  the  domestic  life 
of  the  Chinese,  and  possessing  a  moderate  share  of  what 
is  sometimes  termed  "  impudence,"  we,  in  company  with 
two  of  our  shipmates,  invited  ourselves  to  call  upon  a 
Chinese  family.  Selecting  a  house  which  had  the  ap- 
pearance of  having  a  wealthy  owner,  we  marched  to  the 
door,  and  one  of  our  number  rapped.  The  door  was 
opened  by  the  lady  of  the  house,  and  in  we  marched. 
She  immediately  motioned  us  to  seats,  looking  at  us,  and 
evidently  wondering  to  what  she  owed  the  honor  of  this 
visit.  The  house  had  a  very  neat,  tidy  appearance,  as 
had  also  the  hostess,  who,  though  the  mother  of  eight 
children,  appeared  scarcely  thirty  years  of  age.  They 
were  boys,  all  but  two,  and  were  romping  about  the 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  291 

room,  raising  "  Ned"  at  a  great  rate.  It  being  their  din- 
ner-hour, she  went  about  her  business,  leaving  her  polite 
visitors  to  make  observations  and  amuse  themselves  as 
they  pleased.  She  soon  returned,  and  placed  on  the  cen- 
tre of  the  floor  a  large  dish  of  boiled  rice,  another  with 
vegetables,  called  the  children,  and  seated  them  on  the 
floor  around  the  "  wittles."  After  passing  us  some  tea, 
she  took  her  station  with  the  children,  placed  a  portion 
of  the  rice  and  vegetables  on  the  plate  of  each  one,  gave 
them  their  "  chop-sticks,"  and  told  them,  as  we  supposed, 
to  commence.  And  commence  they  did.  -These  chop- 
sticks are  two  round,  slim  pieces  of  ivory,  about  eight 
inches  in  length,  which  supply  the  place  of  both  fork 
and  spoon.  With  the  chop-sticks  in  the  right  hand  and 
the  dish  in  the  left,  with  its  edge  close  to  the  mouth,  the 
velocity  with  which  they  "fork"  down  the  rice  is  cer- 
tainly surprising.  They  handle  these  singular  sticks 
with  the  greatest  ease,  picking  up  whatever  they  wish, 
and  conveying  it  to  the  mouth. 

The  principal  food  of  the  Chinese  consists  of  rice,  veg- 
etables, and  fruit — eating  little  or  no  meat.  The  tea 
which  our  hostess  had  the  kindness  to  pass  us  was  of  a 
most  excellent  flavor.  They  drink  no  tea  but  black, 
that  being  their  favorite.  It  is  very  different  from  any 
we  ever  drank  in  America,  having  a  much  better  flavor. 
After  thanking  the  lady  for  her  kindness,  we  took  our 
leave,  strolling  into  the  "  Josh  house,"  or  temple  of  wor- 
ship. 

This  building  is  of  one  story,  but  covers  a  large  area 
of  ground.  It  is  very  fancifully  decorated  on  the  out- 
side ;  and  on  each  side  of  the  entrance  is  a  large  sculp- 
tured dragon,  about  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  in  height.  On 
coming  to  the  gateway,  we  found  the  entrance  paved 
with  smoothly-hewn  stone,  and,  ascending  a  few  steps, 
we  entered  the  building.  Near  the  centre  of  the  first 
room  stands,  or  rather  sits,  cross-legged,  a  great,  disagree- 


292  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

able-looking  bronze  idol.  It  is  firom  twenty  to  thirty 
feet  lugb ;  is  represented  as  very  fat,  with  an  immense 
belly,  and  laughing,  as  if  very  happy.  Before  him  is 
suspended  a  lantern,  and  in  it  a  dim  red  light  is  burning, 
which  is  never  permitted  to  go  out.  On  a  table-like  al- 
tar in  front  Josh-sticks  were  smoking.  In  front  of  this 
table  is  a  large  metallic  urn  for  containing  the  ashes  of 
the  Josh-sticks  and  offerings.  Before  the  altar,  in  a  line, 
are  three  stools,  covered  with  little  mats,  for  the  wor- 
shipers to  kneel  upon.  Above,  near  the  roof,  is  a  Chi- 
nese inscription  in  gilt  letters ;  and  each  side  of  a  post, 
extending  from  the  roof  to  the  floor,  is  lined  with  the 
same  kind  of  characters. 

On  the  right  were  two  other  gods,  facing  toward  the 
left,  also  in  a  sitting  posture,  the  legs  being  turned  out, 
and  the  right  foot  of  each  resting  on  the  back  of  a  tor- 
toise. They  were  about  twenty-five  or  thirty  feet  high, 
and  eighteen  feet  in  circumference  around  their  middle. 
They  were  ornamented  with  bright  and  various  colors, 
and  gilded  and  decorated  in  a  profuse  manner,  appear- 
ing more  like  theatrical  characters  than  gods.  Many 
smaller  figures  of  the  human  form  are  about  the  feet  of 
the  larger  ones,  as  if  paying  them  homage.  These,  also, 
are  richly  and  handsomely  painted,  and  gilded  in  a  sim- 
ilar manner.  All  the  gods  have  shrines,  kneeling-stools, 
and  Josh-sticks  placed  before  them.  The  first  of  these 
gods,  on  the  right  of  this  room,  is  represented  as  a  black 
man,  with  a  huge  beard,  wearing  a  crown,  and  holding  a 
sword  in  one  hand;  This  is  the  god  of  war.  The  other 
is  the  god  of  music,  with  a  complexion  light  and  delicate, 
animated  features,  and  regularly  trimmed  mustaches. 
He  is  playing  a  guitar,  and  smaller  Chinese  figures  are 
playing  at  his  feet 

On  the  left  of  the  room,  facing  toward  and  correspond- 
ing with  those  on  the  right,  were  two  other  gods  of  the 
same  size  and  style,  and  seated  in  the  same  manner  as 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  293 

those  on  tlie  opposite  side  of  the  hall.  One  of  them  had 
in  one  hand  a  dragon's  egg^  with  the  young  dragon  just 
presenting  itself,  while  in  its  other  hand  was  held,  writh- 
ing about  the  arm,  a  serpent  which  he  was  crushing. 
The  other  god  held  a  flag,  and  had  a  very  self-conceit- 
ed expression  of  countenance,  as  if  he  was  a  very  great 
character  in  his  own  estimation.  These  are  the  gods  of 
vengeance  and  justice. 

We  passed  through  a  door  in  the  back  part  of  the 
room  into  a  second  apartment.  This  room  contains  the 
greatest  number  of  idols,  and  is  where  the  principal  re- 
ligious ceremonies  are  performed.  Idols  are  arranged 
all  round  the  room,  and  there  are  several  in  the  centre. 
As  you  enter  the  door,  three  huge  gods,  twenty-five  feet 
high,  appear,  looking  very  demurely,  with  eyes  cast 
downward.  Two  goddesses,  one  on  each  side,  stand  fac- 
ing at  right  angles.  They  are  all  very  richly  dressed 
— the  goddesses  particularly  so,  having  crowns  on  their 
heads.  The  others  have  nothing  on  their  heads  but 
a  sort  of  skull-cap,  without  a  front-piece.  The  usual 
amount  of  vases.  Josh-sticks,  etc.,  were  standing  around, 
besides  various  other  things,  the  use  of  which  we  did  not 
learn.  On  the  left  of  the  altar  was  a  large  iron  kettle, 
used  for  a  drum;  and  there  was  also  a  hollow  instru- 
ment, made  from  a  peculiar  kind  of  wood,  and  in  the 
shape  of  a  large  sleigh-bell,  for  drumming  purposes. 
Back  of  all  these  idols  is  a  goddess  mounted  upon  an 
ass,  the  head  of  the  animal  being  turned  up  toward  her, 
as  if  braying.  The  gods  around  the  outside  of  this  room 
were  in  two  rows,  and  were  about  the  size  of  men,  of 
various  patterns  and  designs,  probably  that  each  wor- 
shiper might  choose  a  god  for  himself. 

While  examining  matters  and  things  in  this  room,  a 
female  approached,  and,  going  to  a  desk  or  counter  that 
stood  in  one  part  of  the  room,  held  a  short  conversation 
with  a  priest  who  stood  there.    She  then  purchased  a 


294  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  LN 

bunch  of  fire-crackers  (sucli  as  Young  America  delights 
in  on  Independence  days) ;  then  advanced  to  one  of  the 
large  idols,  kneeled  down,  bowing  her  head  so  that  it 
touched  the  stone  floor,  three  times  in  succession.  She 
then  took  two  sticks  or  pieces  of  wood,  resembling  oys- 
ter-shells, which  she  held  above  her  head  and  let  fall. 
This  she  repeated,  bowing  her  head  to  the  stone  floor 
two  or  three  times,  taking  particular  care,  however,  not 
to  strike  the  floor  hard  enough  to  break  any  of  the  stones, 
or  her  head  either.  Appearing  not  to  be  satisfied,  she 
arose,  her  countenance  betraying  great  anguish.  Leav- 
ing her  angry  god,  she  turned  to  the  goddess,  who,  she 
thought,  would  better  understand  her  feelings,  being  a 
woman  like  herself,  and,  with  her  head  bowed  again, 
went  through  the  same  forms.  This  time,  on  arising, 
she  appeared  more  pleased,  and,  lighting  Josh-sticks,  she 
again  -commenced,  holding  the  burning  sticks  in  her 
hand,  advancing  to  the  goddess,  then  receding  from  it, 
then  bowing  to  the  floor,  striking  the  head,  etc.,  besides 
much  more  that  was  about  as  foolish.  She  then  lighted 
the  crackers,  and  threw  them  around  in  all  directions. 
At  last  she  took  a  bamboo  box  of  tablets  in  her  hand, 
shook  it  till  one  fell  out,  with  some  Chinese  motto  on  it, 
which  she  carried  to  the  priest,  who  interpreted  it,  giv- 
ing her  a  corresponding  slip  of  paper,  which,  we  suppose, 
after  being  burned,  entitles  her  to  some  thousands  of 
cash  in  their  spirit-world,  or  admits  her  to  some  great 
honors  and  privileges.  Any  person,  by  paying  a  few 
cash,  can  shake  the  box  and  obtain  a  simOar  receipt. 
After  chin-chinning  the  principal  god  in  the  room,  she 
departed. 

In  all  the  Chinese  houses  which  we  visited  Josh-sticks 
are  kept  continually  burning,  to  drive  away  the  evil  spir- 
its, and  keep  them  from  harm. 

WhUe  a  part  of  the  ship's  company  were  on  shore  en- 
joying themselves,  the  remainder,  on  board  ship,  were 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  295 

continually  devising  means  to  "  kill  time."  On  one  oc- 
casion, Tom  W.,  our  old  joker,  made  his  appearance  on 
deck,  presenting  a  most  comical  figure.  He  had  on  a 
pair  of  pants  that  came  within  six  inches  of  his  ankles, 
with  a  narrow  piece  of  leather  passing  around  the  bot- 
tom of  his  feet  for  straps ;  a  coat  with  the  waist  between 
his  shoulders,  and  the  skirts  trailing  the  decks ;  the 
whole  surmounted  by  a  tall,  bell-crowned  hat,  with  nar- 
row rim.  About  his  neck  was  suspended  a  boatswain's 
whistle.  Rigged  out  in  this  style,  he  mounted  the  "  hur- 
ricane deck,"  and  commenced  pacing  to  and  fro  with 
great  dignity.  On  board  the  "  Susquehanna"  they  were 
exercising  the  men  in  loosing  and  furling  the  sails,  and 
every  time  the  whistle  of  the  boatswain  sounded  on 
board,  Tom  replied,  imitating  them  as  nearly  as  possible, 
and  turning  "  full  front"  to  the  frigate,  over  whose  sides 
were  seen  sundry  heads,  peering  at  the  whaler  to  see 
what  could  be  the  matter.  To  all  this,  however,  Tom 
paid  no  attention,  but  continued  his  dignified  strut,  in- 
terspersing his  walk  with  all  manner  of  "calls"  on  his 
boatswain's  whistle.  The  quarter-master  of  the  frigate 
now  leveled  his  glass  at  the  whaler's  "  boatswain,"  and 
took  a  long  squint.  Perceiving  this,  Tom  called  for 
his  glass,  and  one  of  the  boys  passed  him  a  handspike. 
Bringing  it  to  bear,  he  "  squinted"  in  return  at  the  quar- 
ter-master ;  then  would  take  a  turn  or  two  fore  and  aft 
the  deck,  give  a  shrill  whistle,  and  again  level  his 
"  glass."  By  this  time  most  of  the  officers  of  the  "  Sus- 
quehanna" were  gathered  on  the  quarter-deck  of  that 
vessel,  staring  at  us,  and  probably  thinking  all  hands 
drunk  or  crazy.  Tom,  who  knew  how  far  to  carry  the 
joke,  now  came  down  from  his  elevated  position. 

The  sails  having  been  loosed  to  dry  during  the  day, 
toward  evening  the  watch  were  sent  up  to  furl  them. 
Every  thing  in  readiness,  Tom's  whistle  sounded,  all 
hands  sprang  into  the  rigging,  and  mounted  aloft.    The 


296  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

sail  was  rolled  on  tlie  yard  at  the  sound  of  tlie  whistle ; 
the  men  descended  from  aloft,  and  mounted,  furled  a  sec- 
ond, then  a  third  sail,  and  so  on  through  the  whole  pro- 
gramme :  all  was  done  at  the  sound  of  the  boatswain's 
whistle.  This  proceeding  "  astonished  the  natives ;"  the 
officers  and  crews  of  the  several  men-of-war  a,nd  other 
vessels  gazing  at  the  new  "  wrinkle,"  and  systematic 
style  of  performing  work  on  board  a  Yankee  sperm 
whaler  ! 

Notwithstanding  the  fact  that  numerous  naval  vessels 
belonging  to  the  United  States,  England,  and  France 
are  nearly  all  the  time  on  this  station,  yet  the  coast  and 
Canton  Eiver  swarm  with  Chinese  pirates.  The  gov- 
ernment of  China,  also,  has  an  armed  junk,  mounting 
twelve  guns,  stationed  on  the  coast,  for  ther  ostensible 
purpose  of  protecting  commerce ;  but  it  is  pretty  strong- 
ly believed  that  this  Chinese  man-of-war  not  only  winks 
at  the  piracies  committed,  but  is  not  backward  alDout 
running  up  the  black  flag  herself  on  certain  occasions. 
About  the  time  we  arrived  at  Hong  Kong,  a  brig  bound 
to  some  part  of  the  East  Indies  was  overhauled,  before 
she  was  clear  of  the  bay,  by  a  number  of  fishing-junks, 
as  they  professed  to  call  themselves,  and,  after  massa- 
cring nearly  all  the  crew,  and  wounding  the  remainder 
— leaving  them  dead,  as  they  supposed — they  rifled  the 
brig,  taking  away  every  thing  they  found  of  any  value. 
The  next  morning  she  was  found  in  this  disabled  con- 
dition by  the  Chinese  man-of-war,  who  took  her  in  tow, 
and  brought  her  into  port.  One  of  the  English  men-of- 
war  immediately  got  under  weigh,  and,  after  cruising 
among  the  various  islands  a  few  days,  overhauled  some 
of  the  junks  and  brought  them  in.  The  prisoners  were 
immediately  taken  ashore  and  tried ;  several  were  hung, 
and  the  remainder  imprisoned  at  hard  labor  for  the  re- 
mainder of  their  lives. 

We  had  heard  much  of  the  Chinese  theatre,  or  Sing 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  297 

Song,  as  they  term  it,  and  concluded  we  ■would  pay  it  a 
visit.  The  building,  which,  is  a  temporary  erection,  is 
very  large,  built  of  bamboo,  and  capable  of  containing 
four  or  five  thousand  persons.  The  gallery  is  large  and 
commodious,  it  being  built  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
"  fan-qui-loo"  (foreign  devils).  The  Celestials  occupy 
the  pit,  and,  there  being  no  seats,  they  are  compelled  to 
stand.  To  see  such  a  mass  of  heads,  "  all  shaven  and 
shorn,"  in  one  compact  space,  swaying  to  and  fro,  and 
hear  the  continual  buzz  of  their  voices,  is  really  amusing. 
And  then  to  watch  them  as  a  policeman  goes  through 
the  crowd,  semi-occasionally  bringing  his  short  club 
down  upon  the  bare  heads  of  the  Chinese,  just  heavy 
enough  to  make  them  sing  out  "Hi-yar-r-h!  how  can 
do  ?  no  proper."  Still,  they  make  room  for  him,  not 
caring  to  receive  a  second  whack.  After  looking  at  the 
crowd  below  us,  and  wondering  where  they  all  came 
from,  until  we  became  somewhat  restless,  we  were  fairly 
startled  by  a  most  frightful,  horrible  din.  Gongs,  bells, 
and  sundry  other  equally  harmonious  instruments  were 
made  visible,  and  the  "  orchestra"  were  beating  and  play- 
ing them  as  if  each  were  paid  according  to  the  amount 
of  noise  he  made,  and  was  determined  to  win.  This 
horrible  music,  as  they  termed  it,  appeared  to  increase, 
until  we  were  obliged  to  stop  our  ears  with  our  fingers, 
to  prevent  being  entirely  deafened.  However,  it  ceased 
as  suddenly  as  it  commenced,  and  the  performers  made 
their  appearance,  dressed  in  the  richest  Chinese  style. 
After  going  through  a  sort  of  pantomime,  which  lasted 
about  half  an  hour,  a  couple  of  them,  who  appeared  to 
be  leaders  of  the  different  parties,  jabbered  away  at  each 
other  in  Chinese,  and  finally  commenced  a  regular  fight, 
which  soon  became  general,  all  hands  "  pitching  in"  in 
the  most  scientific  Chinese  manner.  Fire-crackers  were 
burned,  gongs  sounded,  and  other  warlike  demonstra- 
tions generally  were  gone  through  with,  until  one  of  the 

N2 


298  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

parties,  having  killed  their  opponents,  now  dragged  them 
from  the  stage.  This  was  followed  by  other  scenes 
equally  interesting  to  those  who  could  understand  noth- 
ing that  was  said.  The  performances  closed  by  acrobat- 
ic feats,  which  were  equal,  if  not  superior,  to  any  we  ever 
saw.  We  can  only  sum  up  the  whole  by  saying  the 
crowd  was  immense,  the  performance  nonsensical,  and 
the  music  horrible. 

The  Chinese  method  of  erecting  stone  buildings  is 
very  singular ;  and,  although  it  shows  the  inferiority  of 
the  Celestials  to  the  "  outside  barbarians,"  still  it  is  very 
ingenious.  A  perpendicular  bamboo  wall  is  first  built 
as  a  guide,  and  the  stones  are  then  laid  inside  and  against 
it  till  the  walls  are  complete.  One  would  naturally 
think  that  they  could  lay  the  stone  wall  as  perpendic- 
ular as  they  could  build  the  bamboo,  yet  we  were  as- 
sured they  could  not.  We  noticed  a  fine  building  in 
process  of  erection — a  masonic  temple.  This  building 
was  for  the  use  of  a  lodge  working  under  a  charter 
from  England,  and  composed  of  English  andAmerican 
residents. 

We  were  rejoiced  to  learn  that  a  "Bethel"  had  been 
established  in  Hong  Kong,  and  we  gladly  accepted  the 
opportunity  given  us  of  attending  it.  It  is  a  floating 
"  Bethel,"  and  seems  especially  adapted  to  the  wants  of 
seamen,  who  feel  much  more  "at  home"  there  than  in- 
side brick  walls.  The  chaplain  appeared  to  be  an  ex- 
cellent, earnest,  kind  man,  devoted  to  the  cause  in  which 
he  was  engaged.  We  were  pleased  to  notice  the  quiet 
deportment  and  strict  attention  paid  to  the  remarks  by 
the  seamen  in  attendance. 

We  had  now  been  in  Hong  Kong  several  weeks,  and 
it  was  time  for  the  "  old  man"  to  think  of  deep  water 
again.  Accordingly,  on  Tuesday,  February  28th,  we 
commenced  preparations  for  sea — for  our  last  cruise. 
Our  provisions,  water  and  all,  were  on  board,  and  all  that 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  299 

was  wanting  was  the  word,  and  the  anchor  would  soon 
be  apeak.  A  little  incident  transpired,  however,  which 
served  to  detain  us  a  day  longer.  Several  Chinese  mer- 
chants were  on  board,  showing  their  goods  and  doing 
their  best  endeavors  to  effect  sales.  They  knew,  from 
seeing  the  "  Blue  Peter"  at  the  fore,  that  we  were  to  sail 
on  that  day,  and  they  were  off  in  great  numbers  in  con- 
sequence. Among  the  rest  were  several  shoemakers, 
who  appeared  determined  to  sell.  After  a  good  deal  of 
bargaining  and  bantering,  the  chief  mate  ordered  all  to 
leave  instanter.  In  collecting  their  shoes  preparatory  to 
leaving,  one  of  them  discovered,  or  supposed  he  discov- 
ered, a  pair  missing,  for  which  he  had  received  no  pay. 
This  put  him  in  a  great  rage,  and  he  left  muttering 
vengeance  on  the  "'parme  whaler,"  as  he  termed  it. 
He  soon  returned,  however,  accompanied  by  a  police- 
man, who  explained  what  he  came  for.  The  Chinaman 
charged  one  of  the  crew  with  stealing  them,  whose  chest 
was  immediately  searched,  but  no  shoes  were  found. 
There  was  now  no  remedy  but  the  man  must  go  on 
shore  before  a  magistrate.  In  company  with  the  chief 
mate,  the  man  proceeded  to  the  magistrate's  office,  where 
the  Chinaman  was  called  upon  to  make  his  statement. 
After  having  sworn  him  as  to  the  truth  of  it,  the  pris- 
oner was  put  upon  the  witness'  stand  and  sworn.  On 
being  asked  if  he  saw  the  Chinaman  on  board  the  ship 
with  shoes  for  sale,  he  answered  "yes." 

"  Did  you  take  any  of  those  shoes  unlawfully  ?"  was 
the  next  question. 

"  No,  sir,"  was  the  answer. 

"  Did  you  see  any  person  take  any  shoes  unlawfully 
from  the  plaintiff?" 

"  No,  sir." 

The  magistrate  now  turned  to  the  Celestial,  and  stern- 
ly remarked :  "Look  here,  John  Chinaman,  if  you  ever 
come  before  me  again  with  such  a  story,  I  will  send  you 


300  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

to  the  'lock-up'  for  two  years,"  and  then  dismissed  the 
case. 

The  following  day,  March  1st,  we  took  our  anchor 
from  China  soil,  bade  adieu  to  Hong  Kong,  and  with 
light  hearts  made  sail  for  Japan,  The  pilot  remained 
with  us  until  the  day  following,  when  we  took  leave 
of  him  with  three  hearty  cheers,  with  three  more  for  a 
"  lucky  cruise." 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  301 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Fishing  Jrinks. — New  Companions.  —  Stove  Boat,  yet  good  Luck. — 
Heavy  Gales. — Bashee  Islands. — Loo  Clioos. — The  "Reaper"  again. 
— Whaling  Ship  " Jireh  Perry." — Ship  "Alabama." — "Gamming." 
— Ship  "Roscoe." — A  Cure  for  "Bruisers." — Ship  "E.  L.  B.  Jen- 
ney." — Bark  "Empress." — Ormsby's  Peak. — Bonin  Islands.— tur- 
tles.— Peel's  Island. — A  narrow  Escape. — Bonin  Island  Inhabitants. 
— Japan  Expedition. — An  old  Shipmate.  —  Another  Runaway. — 
Fourth  of  July  Celebration. — Ship  "Rambler." — Ship  "Hope." — 
Parting  with  an  old  Friend. — Fishing. — The  last  Lowering. — Bound 
for  the  Sandwich  Islands. — Maui  and  Molokai. — Lahaina. — Anchor 
down. — Description  of  Lahaina. — King's  Palace. — Lahainaluna. — 
Rules  and  Regulations. — Sports  and  Pastimes. — Letters  from  Home. 
— Productions  of  Maui. — Captain  M'Culloch. — Sad  News. — Death 
of  Stoddard. — Voracity  of  the  Shark. — Kanaka  Church, — Small-pox, 

Thursday  morning,  March  8d,  saw  us  clear  of  the 
land,  with  no  wind,  and  enveloped  in  a  thick  fog.  At 
noon  the  fog  commenced  rising,  and  as  it  continued  slow- 
ly, exposed  to  our  view  a  swarm  of  fishing  junks.  This 
did  not  create  a  very  pleasant  feeling  in  our  midst,  as 
we  well  knew  that  many  of  the  so-called  fishing  junks 
were  only  pirates  in  disguise.  One  of  them  sent  a  boat 
with  some  fish,  which  we  purchased,  and  then  sent  him 
off,  as  we  did  not  like  his  appearance.  It  was  still  calm, 
and  all  hands  were  "  whistling  for  a  breeze,"  which  soon 
came,  and  before  evening  we  were  bowling  it  off  at  the 
rate  of  nine  knots. 

We  had  forgotten  to  mention  that  while  in  port  we 
shipped  two  men,  an  ofiicer  and  a  boat-steerer.  The 
officer,  Mr.  M.,  was  a  windy ^  braggadocio  fellow,  not  over- 
stocked with  common  sense,  whom  all  hands  learned 
soon  to  hate  and  despise.  The  other,  Davy,  the  boat- 
steerer,  was  a  Frenchman,  a  very  quiet,  easy  fellow,  not 
at  all  inclined  to  kill  himself  with  hard  work. 


302  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

We  had  been  but  a  few  days  from  port,  and  while  yet 
in  the  China  Sea,  when  the  glad  cry  was  heard,  "T-h-e-r-e 
she  b-1-o-w-s."  As  this  was  our  last  cruise,  it  can  be  easi- 
ly imagined  how  "  eager  for  the  fray"  we  were.  Down 
went  the  boats,  the  men  following,  feeling  decidedly  fishy. 
The  larboard  and  starboard  boats  soon  fastened,  and 
killed  their  whales  with  but  little  trouble ;  but  not  so 
with  the  bow  boat.  Our  new  officer  must  needs  "  show 
off"  his  skill,  and,  after  fastening  to  his  whale,  drove 
the  boat  completely  on  to  him,  when  he  turned,  and  com- 
menced very  coolly  chewing  the  boat  to  pieces.  This 
was  very  unfortunate,  as  the  waist  boat,  which  was  near- 
ly up  to  a  fourth  whale,  was  necessarily  obliged  to  go 
to  the  relief  of  the  stove  boat.  The  wounded  whale  for- 
tunately received  the  harpoon  in  a  vital  part,  and  soon 
"  turned  up,"  so  that  we  got  three  whales,  which  was 
not  a  bad  commencement  for  the  cruise. 

We  now  experienced  very  heavy  gales  of  wind — what 
seamen  call  the  "  tail  end"  of  a  typhoon.  It  came  upon 
us  at  first  unawares,  and  we  were  near  losing  all  our 
sails  and  spars,  which  would  have  rendered  us  a  com- 
plete wreck.  For  an  hour  or  two  the  wind  would  blow 
with  iremendoios  force — it  appeared  that  every  thing  must 
give  way ;  and  then  a  calm  of  an  hour  or  two  would 
occur,  the  sea  now  rolling  and  pitching  in  great  fury. 
This  weather  lasted  for  two  or  three  days ;  and  when 
pleasant  weather  again  broke  upon  us,  never  was  it  more 
welcome.  "We  now  sighted  the  northern  islands  of  the 
Bashee  group,  and  it  was  with  difficulty  that  we  kept 
clear  of  them. 

On  Thursday,  March  24th,  we  sighted  the  southern- 
most island  of  the  Loo  Choo  group,  belonging  to  the 
Japan  government.  These  islands  possessed  a  peculiar 
interest  to  us  at  this  time,  as  Commodore  Perry  was 
then  on  his  celebrated  expedition  to  Japan,  and  it  was 
expected  he  would  visit  the  Loo  Choos  about  this  time. 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  803 

Twice  during  our  voyage  had  death  visited  us,  and 
taken  from  us  officers  and  shipmates.  Again  he  came, 
and  on  this  occasion  visited  the  forecastle,  taking  with 
him  one  of  our  Eoratongo  natives.  He  died  on  Mon- 
day, April  12th,  of  consumption.  When  he  left  his  na- 
tive island  he  was  troubled  with  a  severe  cough,  which 
grew  worse  rather  than  better,  until  his  condition  was 
one  past  all  hope.  While  in  Hong  Kong  he  was  placed 
in  the  hospital,  and  every  thing  that  medical  skill  could 
do  to  effect  a  cure  was  resorted  to,  but  all  in  vain.  The 
captain  endeavored  to  persuade  him  to  remain  there, 
promising  to  leave  him  so  situated  that  he  would  be  as 
comfortable  as  possible  while  he  lived;  but  this  he  would 
not  consent  to.  He  said  he  did  not  wish  to  remain  there 
and  die  among  strangers,  but  would  rather  be  with  those 
with  whom  he  had  lately  lived — those  who  were  his  ac- 
quaintances, and  among  his  native  friends.  Every  thing 
that  could  be  done  by  captain,  officers,  and  crew  to  make 
his  last  days  comfortable  and  happy,  was  done.  But  the 
time  drew  near  when  he  was  to  depart.  Death  already 
stood  at  his  bedside,  awaiting  the  summons  to  convey 
him  over  the  dark  river.  Calling  his  Kanaka  friends 
about  him,  whose  tears  flowed  fast  and  full,  he  gave 
them  sundry  messages  to  his  parents,  brothers,  and  sis- 
ters ;  told  them  to  say  to  all  he  died  a  Christian,  firm  in 
the  faith  of  a  redeeming  Savior ;  and  that,  although  his 
body  might  be  buried  in  the  depths  of  the  dark  blue 
sea,  yet  his  soul  would  ascend  to  that  glorious  home 
above,  which  his  Savior  had  "  prepared  for  all  those  who 
love  him."  He  exhorted  us  all,  in  as  strong  a  voice  as 
his  weak  nature  would  permit,  to  prepare  for  death,  for 
death  would  as  surely  come  to  us  as  to  him.  Eequest- 
ing  his  native  friends  to  sing,  in  their  language,  his  fa- 
vorite "missionary  hymn,"  as  he  termed  it,  "Oh!  that 
will  be  joyful,  joyful,  joyful,"  etc.,  he  quietly  dropped 
asleep  in  death. 


304  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

What  a  lesson  was  here  taught  us  nominal  Christians 
by  this  poor  native!  An  inhabitant  of  an  island  but  a 
few  years  since  barbarous,  dying  strong  in  the  faith  of  a 
blessed  immortality  beyond  the  grave.  If  all  the  mis- 
sionaries who  have  left  their  homes  to  labor  for  the 
spread  of  the  Gospel  among  the  heathen  had  accom- 
plished no  more,  through  Christ,  than  the  salvation  of 
this  one  native,  yet  were  they  well  repaid.  "What 
shall  it  profit  a  man  if  he  gain  the  whole  world  and  lose 
his  own  soul?  or  what  shall  a  man  give  in  exchange  for 
his  soul?" 

At  four  P.M.  all  sail  was  taken  in,  the  ensign  half- 
mast,  and  again  were  all  hands  called  to  "  witness  burial 
service."  After  the  usual  ceremonies,  which  were  very 
affecting,  the  plank  was  raised,  and  the  body  committed 
to  the  deep. 

Eeader,  when  you  die,  it  will  be,  we  trust,  in  the  Sab- 
bath calm  of  your  hushed  chamber ;  but  the  poor  sailor 
dies  at  sea,  between  the  narrow  decks  of  his  rolling 
home.  The  last  accents  that  reach  your  ear  will  be 
those  of  love  and  affection,  such  as  alone  flow  from  a 
mother's  heart  and  a  sister  dear;  the  last  sounds  that 
reach  the  dying  sailor's  ear  are  the  hoarse  murmur  of 
that  wave  which  seems  impatient  to  grasp  its  victim. 
You  will  be  buried  beneath  the  green  tree,  where  love 
and  grief  may  go  to  strew  their  flowers  and  cherish  your 
virtues ;  but  the  poor  sailor  is  hearsed  in  the  dark  depths 
of  the  ocean,  there  to  drift  about  in  its  under-currents 
till  the  great  judgment  day.  Alas !  for  the  poor  sailor, 
often  the  child  of  misfortune,  impulse,  and  error,  his 
brief  life  fraught  with  privations,  hardship,  and  peril, 
his  grave,  at  last,  the  foaming  deep !  Though  man  pity 
him  not,  may  God,  in  his  great  mercy,  remember  his 
weaknesses  and  trials,  and  save  him  through  his  Son ! 

From  this  time  until  about  the  15th  of  April  we  were 
very  successful,  obtaining,  in  three  weeks'  time,  about 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  305 

three  hundred  barrels  of  oil.  This,  with  the  whales  we 
captured  in  the  China.  Sea,  increased  our  store  nearly 
four  hundred  barrels  since  leaving  Hong  Kong.  As  a 
matter  of  course,  all  hands,  from  captain  to  cook,  were 
in  the  best  possible  humor.  This  was  our  last  cruise, 
and  "  every  whale  counted."  We  were  now  steering  for 
the  Bqnin  Islands,  to  procure  turtle,  sweet  potatoes,  wa- 
termelons, etc. 

Saturday,  April  30th,  brought  to  view  a  sail  on  our 
weather  beam,  the  clipper  whaler  "  Jireh  Perry,"  of  New 
Bedford,  Captain  Lawrence.  This  man  was  a  perfect 
tyrant  on  board  ship,  and  no  crew  had  ever  sailed  with 
him  from  home  and  returned.  It  was  stated,  and  pretty 
generally  believed,  that  he  had  killed  no  less  than  three 
men  since  he  had  become  master  of  a  ship ;  yet,  because 
he  always  was  fortunate  enough  to  obtain  large  quanti- 
ties of  oil,  and  mean  enough  to  treat  his  crew  so  that 
they  would  all  desert  at  the  last  port  touched  at  before 
leaving  for  home  rather  than  go  home  in  the  ship,  there- 
by leaving  all  the  profits  to  the  owners,  he  could  obtain 
a  ship  of  whom  he  liked. 

A  few  days  later  we  spoke  the  "  Alabama,"  Captain 
Coggeshall,  who  reported  that  the  day  before  Captain 
L.,  of  the  "Jireh  Perry,"  had  shot  his  cook  for  some 
trifling  cause. 

On  Saturday,  May  21st,  we  "gammed"  with  our  old 
friends  of  the  "  Mohawk."  Probably  the  reader  is  un- 
acquainted with  the  meaning  of  the  term  "  gam,"  which 
is  peculiar  to  whalemen  alone.  It  is  simply  visiting  from 
one  ship  to  another.  When  two  ships  meet,  one  cap- 
tain invites  the  other  to  come  on  board  and  pass  the 
day.  On  his  arrival  with  a  boat's  crew,  the  chief  mate 
of  the  vessel  that  has  given  the  invitation  returns  with 
a  boat's  crew  from  his  own  ship  to  the  stranger,  thus 
leaving  the  two  captains  on  one  ship,  and  the  two  mates 
on  the  other,  and  exchanging  boat's  crews.     The  first 


306  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

salute  generally  is,  "How  are  you,  shipmate?  how  long 
are  you  out?  how  much  oil  have  you  got?  what  part 
of  the  States  are  you  from  ?"  But  a  short  time  elapses 
before  all  hands  are  acquainted ;  the  visitors  are  invited 
into  the  forecastle,  where  some  time  is  spent  in  spinning 
yarns.  After  a  short  general  conversation,  the  song  is 
called  for,  and  some  one,  generally  the  singer  of  the  ship, 
leads  off,  singing  some  love-ditty,  pirate,  or  sailor  song, 
all  hands  joining  in  the  chorus,  and  making  the  welkin 
ring.  The  song  goes  round,  and  he  who  can  not  sing 
must  spin  a  yarn;  all  must  contribute  to  the  general 
amusement.  The  day  passes  pleasantly  away,  all  labor 
being  suspended  except  the  look-out  for  whales  and 
sailing  the  ship.  These  "  gams"  are  to  the  sailor  mo- 
ments of  recreation,  and  serve  to  create  general  satisfac- 
tion among  all  hands.  During  these  "gams"  whales 
are  often  raised,  and  the  oil  secured  on  the  occasion  is 
equally  divided  between  the  two  ships,  "  be  the  same 
more  or  less." 

A  queer  genius  was  Captain  Hay  den,  of  the  "  Eos- 
coe."  Meeting  him  about  the  1st  of  June,  Captain  Ewer 
invited  him  on  board.  On  crossing  the  "  Eoscoe's"  stern, 
we  observed  that  Captain  H.  had  his  right  arm  in  a  sling. 
Fears  were  expressed  that  he  had  injured  himself  in 
some  manner.  His  head  also  was  bound  up  in  a  hand- 
kerchief. Coming  alongside,  the  man-rope  was  swung 
to  him,  and  he  came  up  the  ship's  side  with  one  hand, 
keeping  the  other  in  the  sling.  After  congratulations 
had  been  exchanged,  Captain  E.  anxiously  inquired 
what  was  the  matter  with  his  arm,  "  hoping  he  had  not 
injured  it  severely,  or  broken  any  bones."  Captain  H. 
replied,  his  countenance  as  grave  as  a  judge,  that  "he 
had  been  at  work  very  hard  during  the  day,  and  his 
arm  being  somewhat  tired,  he  was  merely  resting  it !" 
Captain  E.  replied  that  he  might  have  suspected  some 
trick  of  that  kind,  and  asked  him  "what  was  the  matter 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  307 

with  his  head ;  if  that  had  been  hard  at  work  also  ?"  He 
pulled  off  the  handkerchief  which  bound  it,  and  exposed 
a  completely  bald  head ;  making  the  remark  that  "he 
had  not  seen  a  whale  for  two  months,  and  he  had  shaved 
his  head,  and  should  keep  it  so,  until  he  took  one  hund- 
red barrels  of  oil."  After  passing  a  very  pleasant  day 
and  evening  they  departed.  We  now  shaped  our  course 
for  the  Bonin  Islands. 

It  is  sometimes  the  case  that  disputes  arise  among  the 
foremast  hands,  and,  instead  of  settling  the  matter  in  an 
amicable  manner,  resort  is  often  had  to  blows.  An  in- 
stance of  this  kind  occurring  about  this  time,  and  reach- 
ing the  captain's  'ears,  the  disputants  were  called  aft,  and 
each  were  furnished  with  a  rope,  and  ordered  to  flog  one, 
another  until  he  told  them  to  stop.  This  novel  mode 
of  settling  the  affair  they  did  not  relish,  yet  obey  they 
must,  and  at  it  they  went.  After  belaboring  each  other 
to  their  hearts'  content,  they  were  ordered  to  cease,  and 
went  forward  rather  ashamed  of  themselves. 

We  saw  the  "  E.  L.  B.  Jenny,"  of  Fairhaven,  Captain 
Marsh,  on  Friday,  June  10th.  They  had  taken,  a  few 
days  previous,  a  whale  which  "  stowed  down"  upward 
of  one  hundred  and  thirty  barrels.  Such  whales  are 
very  "few  and  far  between." 

On  Wednesday,  June  15th,  we  raised  a  strange  sail  to 
leeward.  Eunning  down  to  her,  we  found  it  to  be  the 
bark  "  Empress,"  a  Peruvian  merchantman,  from  Cum- 
singmoon,  China,  to  Callao,  with  four  hundred  Chinese 
coolies  on  board,  bound  to  the  mines  in  Peru.  This  sys- 
tem of  deception  is  equaled  only  by  the  African  slave- 
trade.  The  Chinese  (who  are  generally  of  the  lower 
classes)  are  allured,  by  flattering  inducements,  to  go  to 
California,  or  some  other  equally  rich  country,  where, 
they  are  told,  they  will  become  rich  in  a  few  years,  and 
can  return  to  their  own  country.  As  soon  as  they  get 
them  on  shipboard,  a  guard  is  stationed  over  them,  with 


308  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

orders  to  shoot  down  the  first  one  that  shows  any  signs 
of  resistance.  Being  kept  such  close  prisoners,  and  on 
the  coarsest  food,  they  are  naturally  joyous  at  the  sight 
of  land,  and  leave  the  vessel  with  glad  hearts,  only  to  en- 
ter the  slavery  of  the  Peruvian  mines.  This  species  of 
slave-trade  is,  like  the  African  slave-trade  in  our  own 
land,  forbidden  by  the  laws  of  the  country,  but  secretly 
connived  and  winked  at. 

-  "  Ormsby's  Peak,"  of  which  we  give  a  sketch  taken 
on  shipboard,  we  saw  on  Saturday,  June  18th.  It  rises 
about  two  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean, 
and  has  no  shallow  shores  around  it.  Soundings  can 
not  be  obtained  close  to  the  rock.  It  is  one  of  nature's 
great  curiosities. 

On  Thursday,  June  23d,  we  first  raised  the  Bonin  Isl- 
ands, consisting  of  Perry's  Group,  Peel's  and  Bailey's 
Islands.  We  here  caught  a  green  turtle,  who  was  asleep 
upon  the  water.  We  soon  had  him  in  our  coppers,  mak- 
ing turtle-soup  for  all  hands. 

The  morning  of  Monday,  June  27th,  saw  us  close  in 
to  Peel's  Island.  This  island  presents  a  fine  appearance 
from  the  sea,  the  land  being  moderately  high,  and  thick- 
ly covered  with  verdure.  On  the  west  side  is  a  fine 
harbor  with  good  anchorage,  and  very  convenient  for 
ships  wishing  to  water.  About  9  A.  M.  the  wind  died 
away,  leaving  it  a  dead,  dull  calm,  and  the  current  slow- 
ly drifted  us  toward  the  northern  point  of  the  island. 
As  we  neared  the  land  destruction  appeared  almost  in- 
evitable, and  we  feared  that  the  voyage  of  the  "  Emily 
Morgan"  was  about  being  brought  to  a  sudden  termina- 
tion, leaving  her  bones  to  bleach  upon  the  rocks.  But 
an  overruling  Providence  held  all  in  His  hands,  and, 
when  within  a  stone's  throw  of  the  shore,  we  struck  a 
westerly  current,  which  swept  us  clear  of  the  point. 

It  still  continued  calm  until  Wednesday  the  29th. 
During  that  day  a  breeze  sprang  up,  and  we  again  made 


OKMSliY's  PEAK. 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  811 

the  land.  Captain  E.  and  a  boat's  crew  had  been  on 
shore  two  days,  in  consequence  of  our  drifting  away 
from  the  land.  They  came  off  on  this  day,  bringing 
with  them  some  sweet  potatoes  and  two  fine  large  turtle. 
But  very  few  persons  reside  on  these  islands  —  some 
twelve  or  fifteen.  Mr,  Savory,  the  oldest  inhabitant, 
came  to  Peel's  Island  in  1812,  and  has  never  left  it.  All 
living  on  the  island  are  English  or  American.  Irish 
and  sweet  potatoes,  corn,  melons,  onions,  and  nearly  all 
kinds  of  vegetables,  are  raised  with  the  greatest  ease. 
Oranges  and  pine-apples  are  of  spontaneous  growth,  and 
abundant.  Green  turtle,  also,  are  found  here  in  great 
numbers,  and  easily  procured. 

The  expedition  to  Japan,  under  Commodore  Perry, 
paid  this  island  a  visit,  and  the  commodore  was  very 
strongly  impressed  with  the  idea  of  making  it  a  naval 
and  coal  depot  for  vessels  plying  between  San  Francis- 
co, Australia,  and  Hong  Kong ;  so  much  so  that  he  took 
possession  of  a  portion  of  it  (with  the  consent  and  ap- 
probation of  the  inhabitants),  and  sent  on  shore  three 
men,  with  agricultural  implements,  seeds,  live-stock,  etc., 
to  experiment,  while  he  proceeded  to  the  Loo  Choos,  and 
to  await  his  return. 

The  reader  will  doubtless  recollect  one  "John  Wilds," 
who  sailed  with  us  a  short  time  during  the  first  part  of 
the  voyage,  and  who  left  to  go  to  the  gold  mines  in  Aus- 
tralia. "What  was  our  surprise  to  find  him  living  on 
Peel's  Island.  He  informed  us  that,  finding  it  rather 
hard  digging  in  Australia,  he  shipped  for  Hong  Kong, 
where  he  joined  a  whaler.  Serving  a  short  season  in 
her,  he  left,  and  had  since  resided  on  Peel's  Island,  rais- 
ing vegetables,  and  catching  turtle  for  ships.  He  had 
thrown  aside  the  profession  of  sailor,  and  had  become  a 
merchant 

While  all  hands  were  busily  engaged,  from  ship  to 
shore,  and  shore  tp  ship,  laying  in  a  stock  of  vegetables 


312  LIFE  AND   ADVENT  UKE   IN 

and  turtle  for  our  last  cruise,  one  of  our  men  became  so 
enamored  with  Peel's  Island  that  he  concluded  to  take 
French  leave.  Accordingly,  while  on  shore,  he  took  to 
his  heels  and  made  off.  The  officer  in  charge  of  the 
boat  gave  chase,  but  the  man  was  too  nimble  for  him, 
and  he  was  soon  out  of  sight.  Foolish  fellow !  he  was 
the  loser  some  four  hundred  dollars  by  the  operation, 
and  in  a  few  months  later  lost  his  life,  having  been  cap- 
sized in  a  boat  and  drowned. 

We  now  come  to  the  last  anniversary  of  our  nation's 
birthday  that  we  were  destined  to  spend  together  in  our 
ocean  home,  and  we  resolved  that  it  should  be  a  merry 
one.  All  unnecessary  work  was  suspended ;  the  doctor 
was  ordered  to  serve  up  his  best  dishes  for  the  occasion, 
and  all  hands  went  in  for  a  merry  time — a  celebration 
on  our  own  hook.  During  the  morning  a  national  sa- 
lute was  fired,  the  glorious  stars  and  stripes  floating 
proudly  at  our  mizzen  peak  the  mean  while.  At  twelve 
dinner  was  announced.  The  bill  of  fare,  as  presented 
by  the  doctor,  was  turtle  soup,  boiled  turtle,  fried  turtle, 
and  turtle  in  every  conceivable  way ;  sweet  potatoes ; 
cakes ;  pies ;  custards  ;  turtle  eggs,  fried  and  boiled  ; 
plum  duff,  etc.,  etc. — the  whole  forming  a  repast  that 
Jack  seldom  sits  down  to.  All  hands  did  ample  justice 
to  the  dinner,  which  the  old  darkey  cook  received  as  a 
great  compliment.  "  I  tought,"  said  he,  "  I  fix  dinner 
for  you  dis  fouf  h  July  just  suit  you,  and  I  been  gone 
done  it."  We  now  postponed  further  proceedings  until 
evening.  Among  other  good  things,  the  steward  had 
brewed  a  barrel  of  excellent  small  beer  for  the  occasion 
from  sweet  potatoes  and  hops.  And  now  the  watch  had 
been  set ;  none  on  deck  save  the  man  at  the  wheel  and 
the  officer  pacing  his  rounds.  Forward  were  all  hands 
in  the  forecastle,  which  was  brilliantly  illuminated  by 
the  real  spermaceti — ^the  spoils  of  our  own  hard-fought 
battles — each  one  seated  with  his  pot  of  beer  before  him. 


THE   SOUTH   PACIFIC.  813 

The  song  was  called  for ;  and  "  Hail  Columbia !"  was 
sung  bj  Yankees,  Englislimen,  Frenchmen,  Spaniards, 
Portuguese,  and  Kanakas,  as  never  sung  before.  Patri- 
otic speeches  followed,  and  the  sentiment  of  devotion  to 
our  country  was  toasted :  "  three  times  three,"  with  a 
will,  was  given  for  the  "land  of  the  free  and  the  home 
of  the  brave."  The  Kanakas  and  Portuguese,  although 
not  understanding  the  "  merits  of  the  case,"  entered  into 
the  sport  with  a  hearty  good- will,  drinking  their  small- 
beer,  occasionally  exclaiming,  "Hurra  Fourth  July!  very 
good ;  I  like  s'pose  he  come  every  day."  And  thus  our 
last  Fourth  of  July  in  a  whaler  passed.  Although  not 
making  as  much  of  a  "splurge"  as  did  many  ^a^nbte  on 
that  day,  yet  our  hearts  beat  as  true,  and  expressed  a*. 
much  devotion  to  our  country. 

From  this  time  our  good  fortune,  that  had  followed  us 
during  the  cruise  so  far,  appeared  to  gain.  During  the 
next  thirty  days  we  captured  nearly  three  hundred  bar- 
rels of  oil,  which  was  in  itself  a  good  season's  work.  For- 
tune had  at  last  crowned  our  efforts  with  success,  and 
each  day,  as  it  passed,  would  hear  some  one  exclaim, 
"  One  day  less  on  board  the  old  hooker!" 

Nothing  of  peculiar  interest  transpired  further  during 
the  cruise  except  an  occasional  meeting  with  a  brother 
whaleman.  We  were  all  the  time  working  our  way  to 
the  eastward,  preparatory  to  leaving  the  ground  in  Sep- 
tember. On  Tuesday,  August  4th,  spoke  the  "  Eam- 
bler,"  of  Nantucket,  Captain  Potter.  Soon  after  parting 
company,  we  lowered  our  boats  and  captured  two  large 
whales,  they  yielding  us  about  one  hundred  and  sixty 
barrels  of  oil.  On  the  25th  of  the  same  month  we 
gammed  with  the  "  Hope,"  of  New  Bedford,  Captain 
Giflfbrd.  We  found  him  quite  ill,  and  hardly  able  to 
walk  the  deck ;  yet  in  this  same  feeble  condition,  a  few 
days  previous,  when  whales  were  raised,  he  had  been 
placed  in  his  boat,  bolstered  up  with  pillows,  and  actu- 

O 


314  LIFE  AND   ADVENTURE   IN 

ally  captured  a  large  wliale.  Notlimg,  lie  said,  but  his 
anxiety  to  get  a  good  voyage  induced  him  to  do  so. 

The  following  day  we  again  gammed  with  our  old 
friends  of  the  "  Eoscoe."  It  will  be  remembered  that 
we  had  with  us  a  Kanaka  from  Simpson's  Island,  whom 
we  called  "  Dick  Simpson."  As  he  did  not  wish  to  go 
to  America,  the  captain  told  him  that  he  might  go  into 
the  first  ship  that  we  met  that  would  take  him  to  his  isl- 
and. An  opportunity  now  presented  itself  in  the  "  Eos- 
coe," and  Dick  availed  himself  of  it.  The  captain  gave 
him  his  discharge,  and  paid  him  in  tobacco,  pipes,  cali- 
co, trinkets,  etc. — the  currency  of  "  his  land" — and  Dick 
prepared  to  leave  us.  Nearly  every  one  of  the  crew 
made  him  some  present  as  a  token  of  affection,  for  we 
all  loved  good-natured,  obliging  Dick  Simpson.  What 
if  his  skin  was  of  a  dingy  hue,  he  had  a  brave,  good 
heart,  as  we  all  could  testify,  and  we  could  see  that  heart 
was  heavy  as  he  bade  us  each  an  adieu.  The  "  pumps" 
of  more  than  one  warm-hearted  sailor  were  "set  going" 
on  that  occasion,  but  none  were  ashamed  of  them.  Nei- 
ther was  he  soon  forgotten,  but  long  remembered  by 
us  all. 

We  now,  for  a  few  days,  turned  our  attention  to  fish- 
ing on  a  somewhat  dijfferent  scale  than  we  had  been.  It 
is  a  peculiarity  of  the  Japan  sperm-whale  fishing-ground 
that  ships  are  surrounded  nearly  the  whole  season  by 
albicore  and  bonita.  These  fish  are  easily  caught  in  the 
following  manner :  the  fisherman  seats  himself  upon  the 
weather  rail,  first  provided  with  a  line  and  hook,  the 
bait  consisting  of  a  small  piece  of  white  rag.  This  is 
fastened  to  the  back  of  the  hook  in  a  peculiar  manner, 
so  as  to  resemble  a  pair  of  wings  as  much  as  possible. 
Then  skimming  the  hook  thus  baited  along  the  surface 
of  the  water  as  the  ship  goes  through  it,  the  foolish  al- 
bicore or  bonita  sees  it,  and,  thinking  to  make  a  meal  off 
some  unlucky  flying-fish,  makes  a  leap  for  it,  and  finds 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC. 


315 


himself  immediately  landed  upon  deck.  Often  have  we 
sat  thus,  and  hauled  them  in  as  fast  as  we  could  drop  the 
line  and  disengage  the  hook.  As  we  before  remarked, 
all  hands,  for  two  or  three  days,  turned  our  attention  to 
this  kind  of  fishing,  and  we  soon  had  about  fifty  barrels 
of  them  cleaned  and  salted  for  "  liberty  money"  in  the 
Sandwich  Islands :  they  there  command  the  highest 
price. 

As  there  must  be  a  ^'- first  time  for  every  thing,"  so,  we 
suppose,  there  must  be  a  "  last  time"  also.  We  had  had 
our  "first  lowering,"  and  the  time  had  now  arrived  when, 
we  hoped,  we  were  to  have  our  "last."  The  captain 
had  informed  us  that,  "just  as  soon  as  we  got  one  hund- 
red and  fifty  barrels  more,  we  could  sing  '  Homeward 
Bound.'  "  No  one  was  dull  now  at  masthead ;  all  eyes 
were  open ;  and  the  mastheads  were  double  manned 
with  volunteers  every  day.    Not  long  was  it  to  be 

before  our  wish- 
es were  gratified. 
On  the  morning 
of  Friday,  Sep- 
tember 2,  at  about 
8  o'clock,  the  old 
cry  —  never  be- 
fore so  welcome 
— "T-h-e-r-e  s-h-e 
b-1-o-w-s !"  broke 
forth.  The  ex- 
T  citement  that  en- 

sued beggars  de- 
scription. The  day  was  beautiful ; 
the  whales  were  to  leeward ;  and  a 
nice  breeze  was  sending  us  slowly 
through  the  water.  Every  circum- 
stance was  in  our  favor.  The  men  knew 
the  conditions  of  our  being  able  to  soon 


816  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

point  our  ship's  head  homeward.  We  were  now  nearly 
four  years  from  home.  Many  of  ns  had  heard  no  word — 
not  even  a  word — from  the  dear  friends  we  left  behind. 
Every  man  looked  "  whale"  as  he  stepped  into  the  boat, 
and  our  young  fourth  mate — a  boy  in  years,  but  a  man 
in  soul — said  to  his  crew  as  he  left  the  ship,  "  Boys, 
you  need  not  expect  to  put  foot  upon  the  Emily's  decks 
again  till  we  have  drawn  the  claret  from  one  of  those 
fellows,"  And  they  did  not.  In  less  than  two  hours 
after  lowering,  two  more  of  the  leviathans  of  the  deep 
had  ceased  to  live.  They  were  brought  alongside  and 
secured.  The  captain  now  called  all  hands  aft,  and  com- 
plimented them  upon  the  day's  success,  proposed  three 
cheers,  which  were  given,  and  which  made  the  old  ship 
ring  again:  "And  now,"  said  he,  "let  us  have  their 
jackets  in  on  deck  as  soon  as  possible," 

The  following  Wednesday  we  stowed  down  the  oil, 
and  found  we  had  one  hundred  and  sixty  barrels,  ten 
more  than  we  asked  for,  but  which  was  "  good  for  lee- 
way," The  ship's  head  was  now  pointed  toward  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  with  all  sail,  every  stitch  we  could 
carry,  crowded  upon  her,  Joy  now  reigned  throughout 
the  ship. 

On  Monday,  October  10th,  we  sighted  the  islands  of 
Maui  and  Molokai.  The  weather  was  thick  and  squal- 
ly, and  we  stood  off  and  on  the  land  that  night,  and  the 
following  day  steered  down  the  passage  between  the  two 
islands.  At  noon  we  came  in  sight  of  the  anchorage 
and  shipping,  but,  the  wind  dying  away  to  a  calm,  we 
were  not  able  to  come  to  an  anchor  until  4  P.M.  of  the 
next  day,  Wednesday.  It  was  hard  to  bear,  lying  in  a 
calm,  in  sight  of  the  anchorage,  for  twenty-four  hours ; 
but  we  had  to  submit.  But  we  finally  dropped  our  an- 
chor, for  the  last  time  on  foreign  soil,  in  the  harbor  of 
Lahaina,  island  of  Maui. 

Strictly  speaking,  there  is  no  harbor  at  this  island. 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  321 

The  anchorage  is  merely  a  roadstead,  which  is  on  the 
south  side  of  it,  and  protects  the  shipping  from  the 
northerly  gales,  which  are  the  most  prevalent.  In  case 
of  a  sou'easter,  however,  ships  must  put  to  sea  or  be 
driven  on  the  reef.  We  found  about  seventy  sail  at  an- 
chor, about  sixty -five  of  them  American  whalemen. 

As  soon  as  the  anchor  was  down  we  were  visited  by 
the  harbor-master,  accompanied  by  the  seamen's  chap- 
lain. Rev.  Mr.  Bishop.  After  the  former  had  transacted 
his  business,  the  latter  addressed  to  us  some  very  excel- 
lent remarks,  distributed  several  copies  of  the  "  Seamen's 
Friend,"  and  concluded  by  cordially  inviting  all  to  come 
and  see  him ;  also  to  attend  Bethel  on  the  Sabbath.  The 
_^'  Seamen's  Friend"  is  a  sheet  published  at  Honolulu, 
Wauhoo,  by  Father  Damon,  as  he  is  familiarly  called, 
and  is  devoted  to  the  spiritual  and  temporal  good  of  the 
sailor. 

The  town  of  Lahaina  (pronounced  Lahend)  is  beauti- 
fully situated  on  the  level  land  skirting  the  sea,  and  ex- 
tends along  the  shore  a  distance  of  two  miles.  Back 
from  the  shore  it  reaches  to  the  foot  of  the  mountains, 
thus  lying  hemmed  in,  as  it  were,  by  the  sea  in  front 
and  the  mountains  in  the  rear.  The  streets  are  lined 
with  beautiful  shade-trees  on  either  side,  which,  in  the 
hot  weather,  afford  a  cool  and  delicious  retreat.  The 
reef  extends  the  whole  length  of  the  town,  about  forty 
rods  from  shore,  and,  but  for  a  small  opening  or  break 
in  it,  boats  would  be  unable  to  land.  In  times  of  a  south- 
erly gale  the  breakers  extend  across  this  passage,  and 
then  it  is  extremely  difficult  and  dangerous  to  go  through. 
Many  seamen  have  lost  their  lives  in  attempting  to  go 
through  the  passage  at  such  times. 

Immediately  in  front  of  the  landing  is  a  large  fort, 
built  of  coral  rock,  yet  not  very  formidable  in  its  appear- 
ance. The  black  guns  which  peer  over  the  dingy  walls 
are  of  small  calibre,  and  not  capable  of  doing  much  ex- 


322  LIFE  AND   ADVENTURE  IN 

ecution.  The  site  is  a  most  excellent  one,  as  the  whole 
shipping  lies  within  its  range.  It  is  guarded  by  a  por- 
tion of  the  Hawaiian  army,  who  look  malicious  enough, 
though  not  much  like  viilitia.  They  have  very  little  of 
the  air  and  appearance  of  soldiers. 

The  main  or  principal  street  runs  nearly  east  and 
west,  and  on  it  are  situated  the  public  stores,  and  most 
of  the  residences  of  the  foreign  population.  We  found, 
also,  a  large  and  commodious  hotel  on  the  north  side  of 
this  street,  the  front  commanding  a  view  of  the  shipping, 
and  the  sides  and  back  surrounded  by  a  beautiful  grove, 
altogether  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  lovely  spots 
imaginable.  This  hotel  is  frequented  by  captains  and 
officers  of  the  various  ships  in  port. 

On  the  first  street  in  the  rear  of  the  one  above  men- 
tioned stands  a  native  church.  It  is  under  the  direction 
of  American  missionaries.  Eambling  about  in  search 
of  something  new,  we  accidentally  came  to  a  "  Seamen's 
Reading-room,"  in  the  basement  of  the  Bethel  Church. 
Here  we  found  late  papers  from  all  parts  of  the  Union, 
and  were  soon  lost  to  every  thing  but  them.  As  even- 
ing drew  nigh,  it  warned  us  that  we  must  depart,  but 
with  more  of  a  home  feeling  than  we  had  experienced 
for  years.  This  reading-room  is  supported  by  voluntary 
contributions  from  seamen  visiting  Lahaina,  and  is  un- 
der the  direction  and  charge  of  Rev.  Mr.  Bishop,  its  found- 
er. It  is  open  from  8  A.M.  to  5  P.M.,  and  is  situated  in 
a  delightfully  cool  and  shady  spot.  It  forms  an  excel- 
lent jetreat  from  the  scorching  rays  of  the  sun,  and  too 
much  praise  can  not  be  awarded  to  Mr.  B.  for  his  kind- 
ness and  liberality  in  establishing  so  useful  and  pleasant 
a  place  of  resort  for  the  sailor  to  pass  his  hours  in  in- 
structive reading. 

The  form  of  government  of  the  Sandwich  Islands  is 
too  well  known  to  need  even  a  passing  notice  here.  The 
king  resides  at  Honolulu,  which  is  the  capital  of  the 


THE  SOUTH   PACIFIC.  323 

kingdom,  but  he  has  a  palace  in  the  eastern  portion  of 
this  village,  which  is  his  residence  while  on  this  island, 
attending  to  matters  of  government.  It  is  a  large  stone 
building,  two  stories,  with  a  piazza  at  either  end.  It  re- 
sembled a  prison,  we  thought,  more  than  a  palace. 

It  is  well  known  that  the  missionaries  of  the  cross 
have  been  the  humble  instruments  in  the  hands  of  God 
of  doing  much  good  at  these  islands.  We  were  inform- 
ed that  nearly  all  the  natives  of  influence  throughout  the 
kingdom  had  united  with  the  Church  of  Christ,  and  were 
earnest  in  their  efforts  to  promote  the  happiness  and 
prosperity  of  the  whole  population.  Yet  many  of  them 
(the  lower  classes)  cling  to  the  superstitions  of  their  an- 
cestors, and,  so  long  as  they  do,  they  must  remain  rude 
and  ignorant.  The  climate  appears  to  agree  with  for- 
eign residents  remarkably  well.  Although  situated  with- 
in the  tropics,  the  northeast  trade-winds,  which  almost 
constantly  blow  here,  cool  the  atmosphere,  and  make  it 
exceedingly  genial  and  pleasant.  Being  situated  nearly 
in  the  centre  of  the  North  Pacific,  the  temperature  of  the 
atmosphere  is  very  regular,  seldom  varying  more  than 
five  degrees  for  months ;  and  we  were  informed  by  an 
old  resident  that  he  had  not  known  the  thermometer  to 
vary  ten  degrees  in  years.  It  generally  is  about  eighty 
in  the  shade. 

Back  from  the  village,  upon  a  fine  eminence,  is  a  mis- 
sionary settlement,  called  Lahainaluna,  with  schools  for 
the  education  of  the  young.  It  is  a  beautiful  location. 
In  front  may  be  seen  the  village  of  Lahaina  and  the  ship- 
ping, with  the  island  of  Molokai  in  the  distance ;  to  the 
right,  Wauhoo  and  Ranai  present  themselves  to  the  eye 
of  the  beholder ;  on  the  left,  Tahoorowa ;  and  on  a  clear 
day  the  volcanic  heights  of  Mount  Roa,  on  the  island  of 
Owyhee,  loom  up  in  the  far-off  sky  like  a  huge  bank 
of  black  clouds  threatening  a  tempest.  Fresh  breezes 
sweep  down  the  gulleys  of  the  mountains,  laden  with 


824  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

the  perfumes  of  the  orange,  the  banana,  pine-apple,  and 
mountain  apple  trees ;  the  beautiful  grounds  laid  out 
with  taste :  all  these  combined  render  Lahainaluna  what 
its  native  name  indicates — the  Lovely  Mountain  Home. 

The  principal  authority  on  the  island  of  Maui  (pro- 
nounced Mowee)  is  vested  in  a  governor.  He  is  assist- 
ed, however,  by  petty  chiefs,  or  captains,  who  hold  their 
office  by  his  appointment.  Subordinate  to  these  are  the 
kikos,  or  Kanaka  policemen,  who  patrol  the  streets  day 
and  night.  They  are  hated  and  despised  by  natives  and 
foreigners,  and  frequently  take  advantage  of  Jack  Tar 
by  allowing  him  to  do  as  he  pleases  for  a  time,  and  then, 
for  some  trifling  breach  of  the  laws,  arresting  him,  and 
taking  him  to  the  calaboose  or  lock-up. 

Seamen  are  obliged  to  be  clear  of  the  beach  at  drum- 
beat— eight  o'clock  in  the  evening.  No  person  is  al- 
lowed to  remain  on  shore  over  night,  unless  furnished 
with  a  proper  pass  by  the  captain  of  the  port ;  and  any 
one  found  on  the  beach,  or  in  the  town,  with  no  pass, 
after  the  proper  time,  is  marched  to  the  calaboose,  where 
he  is  kept  in  confinement  till  morning,  and  then  mulct- 
ed in  a  pretty  round  sum  for  breaking  the  laws.  This 
is  generally  paid  by  the  captain,  and  afterward,  with 
pretty  good  interest,  deducted  from  Jack's  pay. 

Saturday  is  a  holiday  with  all  hands  in  Lahaina.  Ev- 
ery body  and  their  wives  procure  horses  on  that  day, 
great  numbers  of  which  are  found  here,  and  pass  the 
whole  day  in  horseback  riding.  Go  where  you  will,  in 
whatever  street  you  like,  you  will  see  a  gay  cavalcade 
of  equestrians  approaching,  male  and  female.  The  lat- 
ter dress  in  the  gayest  of  gay  calico,  the  "yaller"  being 
the  predominant  color,  and,  seating  themselves  astride  a 
horse  in  the  same  manner  as  the  men,  with  six  or  eight 
feet  of  the  calico  swinging  on  each  side,  galloping  through 
the  streets,  they  present  a  rather  novel  appearance. 

The  Hawaiians  appear  to  have  queer  ideas  of  justice. 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  325 

What  is  crime  when  committed  by  a  foreigner,  can  be 
done  with  impunity  by  a  native.  For  instance :  a  na- 
tive is  allowed  to  gallop  through  the  streets  at  the  high- 
est rate  of  speed  to  which  he  can  urge  his  horse,  while  a 
foreigner  must  content  himself  with  riding  on  a  slow 
walk,  except  in  the  outskirts  of  town.  We  were  witness 
to  an  occurrence  of  this  kind  one  day.  An  officer  be- 
longing to  one  of  the  ships  in  port  was  mounted  upon  a 
fractious  horse,  and,  while  passing  near  the  grand  square, 
the  animal  became  frightened,  and  commenced  his  an- 
tics, endeavoring  to  run.  It  was  with  difficulty  that  the 
rider  was  enabled  to  retain  his  seat ;  and  several  kikos, 
perceiving  what  was  the  matter,  ran  and  caught  the 
horse  by  the  bridle,  and  ordered  the  officer  to  dismount, 
telling  him  he  had  broken  the  laws  against  fast  riding, 
and  must  go  to  jail  or  calaboose.  This  he  refused  to  do, 
but  offered  to  give  bail  for  his  appearance  before  the  po- 
lice magistrate  the  next  morning  to  answer  to  the  charge. 
This  was  accordingly  done ;  and  on  the  trial  the  follow- 
ing morning,  he  was  fined.  Not  a  day  passed  while  we 
were  on  shore  that  we  did  not  see  natives  riding  at  a 
high  rate  of  speed  through  the  principal  streets  of  La- 
haina. 

On  Sunday,  morning,  October  16th,  the  packet,  with 
the  mail  from  Honolulu,  arrived.  We  hastened  on  shore, 
and  were  met  by  the  captain,  who  reached  forth  a  letter 
— the  first  in  four  years — which  was  immediately  recog"- 
nized  by  the  superscription.  It  is  useless  to  attempt  de- 
scribing our  feelings.  They  who  have  been  "  in  like 
circumstances"  can  understand  them  —  no  others  can. 
As  the  boat  was  passing  from  shore  to  ship,  thousands 
of  thoughts  rushed  through  our  mind,  coming  one  upon 
another  like  a  hurricane.  Break  the  seal  there  and  then 
we  durst  not.  No ;  we  would  wait  till  we  got  in  some 
quiet  corner  on  board,  and  there,  undisturbed  by  aiiy 
thing,  first  learn  the  good  or  bad  news.     We  felt  that 


326  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

during  the  long  interval  of  four  years  many  changes 
must  necessarily  have  taken  place;  perhaps  some  of 
those  we  most  loved  had  been  taken  away,  and  we  would 
never  more  behold  their  f^ce  this  side  heaven.  But  we 
remembered  that  all  things  were  in  the  hands  of  a  good 
and  wise  God,  and  in  Him  we  could  trust.  Arriving  on 
board,  we  hastened  to  a  quiet  nook,  and  there,  with  trem- 
bling hand,  broke  the  seal.  What  was  our  happiness  to 
read  "all  are  well,"  and  that  the  rover  was  not  forgot- 
ten, but  that  prayers  daily  ascended  to  a  Throne  of 
Grace  that  he  might  be  returned  in  safety  to  his  home. 
We  read  and  reread  the  precious  words,  and  our  heart 
went  out  in  thanksgiving  to  that  Almighty  Power  who 
had  thus  far  brought  us  on  our  dangerous  voyage.  In 
the  afternoon  we  attended  Bethel,  but  fear  that  the  ser- 
mon did  not  profit  us  much,  as  our  thoughts  would  wan- 
der, in  spite  of  us,  to  that  home  "  far  over  the  deep  blue 
sea." 

The  productions  of  these  islands  are  similar  to  those 
of  most  tropical  climes.  Grapes  are  raised  in  great 
abundance  and  of  a  superior  flavor.  The  wine  made 
from  them  is  said  to  be  excellent,  especially  for  medici- 
nal purposes,  in  comparison  with  other  wines.  Melons 
of  all  descriptions  are  raised  here  in  great  abundance, 
and  are  not  equaled,  we  think,  by  any  raised  on  Yankee 
soil.  The  attention  of  the  more  enterprising  natives  and 
half-breeds  has  of  late  been  turned  to  the  cultivation  of 
sugar  and  cotton,  and  we  predict  the  time  to  be  not  far 
distant  when  they  will  be  the  staple  productions  of  the 
islands. 

While  at  Lahaina  we  formed  the  acquaintance  of  Cap- 
tain M'Culloch,  then  master  of  the  clipper  whaler  "Ni- 
agara," of  Fairhaven.  He  related  to  us  an  incident  in 
which  he  figured  somewhat  conspicuously,  and  we  take 
the  liberty  of  giving  it  here  for  the  benefit  of  the  reader. 
It  will  serve  to  show  that  the  whaleman  has  dangers 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  327 

with  which  to  contend  aside  from  those  connected  with 
killing  the  monster  of  the  deep. 

While  the  "  Sharon,"  of  New  Bedford,  Captain  Mor- 
ris, was  cruising  near  the  King  Mill  Group,  whales  were 
raised,  and  the  boats  sent  in  pursuit.  Captain  M.,  two 
Kanakas,  and  a  boy  remained  on  board.  For  some  time 
after  the  boats  left  the  captain  remained  at  masthead, 
watching  the  boats  and  whales.  The  boy  then  went  to 
masthead,  leaving  the  two  natives  on  deck,  and  soon  aft- 
er the  captain  came  down.  He  was  immediately  attack- 
ed by  the  natives,  murdered,  and  his  body  cut  in  small 
pieces,  and  thrown  to  the  hogs.  On  seeing  this,  the  boy 
immediately  went  to  work  and  cut  all  the  running  rig- 
ging, thereby  disabhng  the  ship,  and  preventing  her  from 
being  run  ashore,  as  the  natives  wished  to  do,  being  near 
to  land.  Those  in  the  boats,  seeing  the  condition  of 
things,  and  rightly  judging  something  to  be  wrong,  im- 
mediately gave  up  the  chase  and  returned.  When  with- 
in hailing  distance,  the  natives  cried  out  to  them  that,  if 
they  came  on  board,  they  were  dead  men,  at  the  same 
time  holding  up  to  their  view  portions  of  the  captain's 
dead  body.  The  boats  retired  a  short  distance  to  con- 
sult as  to  the  best  manner  of  retaking  the  ship.  Mr. 
M'C,  at  that  time  third  officer  of  the  vessel,  offered  to 
board  her  if  six  men  would  volunteer  to  accompany 
him ;  but,  among  twenty -four,  none  appeared  willing  to 
make  the  attempt.  In  justice  to  them,  however,  it  is 
proper  to  state  that  it  was  more  a  want  of  presence  of 
mind  than  of  bravery  that  deterred  them.  He  per- 
suaded, advised,  coaxed,  and  threatened,  but  all  to  no 
purpose.  He  then  offered  to  go  if  one  could  be  found 
willing  to  accompany  him,  but  a  panic  appeared  to  have 
seized  hold  upon  them,  and  not  one  would  venture. 
Knowing  that  something  must  be  done,  and  that  speed- 
ily, he  said,  "  It  was  as  well  to  die  on  board  the  ship, 
fighting  in  her  defense,  as  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  the 


328  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

natives  on  shore,  and  be  butchered  by  them."  Divest- 
ing himself  of  his  clothing,  he  took  a  large  boat-knife, 
and,  as  it  was  nearly  dark,  plunged  overboard,  and  cau- 
tiously swam  for  the  stem  of  the  vessel.  This  he  reach- 
ed undiscovered.  Fortunately,  a  rope  was  towing  over 
the  stem,  which  he  seized,  and  by  almost  superhuman 
efforts,  succeeded  in  swinging  himse^lf  into  the  cabin  win- 
dows. Groping  about,  he  found  a  pair  of  heavy  horse- 
pistols,  and,  while  examining  one  of  them,  accidentally 
dropped  it.  The  natives  heard  the  noise,  and  rushed 
into  the  cabin.  Mr.  M'C.  knocked  the  foremost  one 
down  with  the  remaining  pistol ;  the  other  being  armed 
with  a  cutlass,  a  fierce  and  savage  fight  ensued  in  the 
dark.  It  ended  in  the  Kanaka  being  slain,  Mr.  M'C.  re- 
ceiving a  severe  wound  in  the  thigh.  After  having  se- 
curely bound  the  one  stunned  by  the  blow  from  the  pis- 
tol, he  went  on  deck,  and  made  signals  for  the  boats  to 
come  alongside.  It  was  some  time,  however,  before  they 
ventured  to  do  so,  as  they  thought  that  Mr.  M'C.  was 
murdered,  and  the  natives  were  endeavoring  to  allure 
them  to  a  similar  fate ;  but  on  hearing  his  well-known 
voice  they  immediately  came  on  board.  All  sail  was 
now  made  upon  the  ship,  and  she  was  soon  clear  of  the 
land.  The  prisoner  was  handed  over  to  the  authorities 
of  the  next  port  they  visited,  tried,  and  executed  for  pi- 
racy on  the  high  seas. 

We  accidentally  learned  that  a  fellow-townsman  was 
lying  sick  at  the  hospital,  and  hastened  to  visit  him.  On 
arriving,  we  inquired  for  him,  and  were  led  to  his  bed- 
side. It  proved  to  be  a  Mr.  Stoddard,  who  had,  like  our- 
self,  been  trying  life  in  a  whaler.  He  went  one  season 
in  the  "Arctic,"  and,  on  his  return  to  Lahaina,  finding 
his  health  completely  shattered,  procured  his  discharge, 
and  was  placed  in  the  hospital,  there  to  die,  away  from 
home  and  friends.  We  found  his  case  to  be  one  de- 
manding great  sympathy.     For  one  year  had  he  been 


THE   SOUTH  PACIFIC.  329 

there  witli  that  deceitful  disease,  consumption.  During 
this  time  he  had  heard  no  word  from  the  loved  ones  at 
home,  nor  met  with  any  one  from  that  locality.  How 
eagerly  did  he  grrtsp  our  hands,  and,  although  we  had 
never  been  acquainted  with  each  other  at  home,  yet  we 
felt  like  brothers.  He  said  this  meeting  was  to  him  the 
brightest  spot  of  his  life ;  that  never  before  had  he  so 
longed  to  see  any  one  from  home  as  while  he  had  been 
in  the  hospital.  He  was  very  pale  and  thin,  and  fast 
wasting  away,  yet  very  patient  and  resigned.  Trusting 
in  the  blessed  Jesus  for  a  home  beyond  the  grave,  where 
shall  be  "  no  more  sorrow,  sickness,  or  death,"  he  cheer- 
fully submitted  to  his  sufferings,  believing  they  would 
"  work  out  for  him  a  far  more  exceeding  weight  of  glo- 
ry." He  spoke  of  his  physician.  Dr.  Dow,  in  terms  of 
the  highest  praise ;  also  of  the  Eev.  Mr.  Bishop — of  the 
words  of  comfort  and  consolation  he  had  poured  into  his 
wretched  and  distracted  heart — of  the  feeling  and  beau- 
tiful manner  in  which  he  had  pointed  him  to  the  "  Lamb 
of  God,  which  taketh  away  the  sin  of  the  world" — of  his 
daily  visits,  always  bringing  consolation.  Handing  us 
a  Bible,  well  worn,  he  said,  "Take  this  book,  and  give  it 
to  my  parents.  Tell  them  that,  although  I  shall  never 
more  see  them  on  earth,  yet  I  trust  and  pray  that  I  may 
meet  them  in  heaven.  Tell  theni  I  die  firm  in  the 
Christian  faith ;  that  I  have  gone  to  Jesus  with  my  sins, 
and  he  has  taken  them  all  from  me,  and  blessed  me ; 
that  my  whole  trust  is  in  Him ;  that  my  peace  is  made 
with  God,  and  I  long  to  be  released  from  this  world  of 
sin  and  death  to  dwell  with  Jesus  evermore."  His  voice 
appeared  to  fail  him ;  and,  as  we  extended  to  him  our 
hand,  with  tearful  eyes,  we  felt  that  we  were  clasping 
his  for  the  last  time.  As  we  turned  to  depart,  our  ears 
caught  these  words  issuing  from  his  lips : 

"How  sweet  the  name  of  Jesus  sounds 
In  a  believer's  ear." 


330  LIFE   AND  ADVENTURE   IN 

We  bade  him  farewell,  and  returned  to  the  ship  with 
a  sad  and  heavy  heart.  We  felt  to  thank  God  that  we 
were  yet  in  health  and  strength,  and  to  ask  Him  to  re- 
turn us  to  our  friends  at  home  safely.  On  reaching  the 
hospital  the  following  morning,  we  found  that  Stoddard 
had  peacefully  departed  during  the  preceding  night.  He 
"fell  sweetly  asleep  in  Jesus." 

Much  has  been  written  and  said  about  the  shark,  and, 
to  speak  plainly,  many  falsehoods  told.  It  has  become 
a  common  idea  that  all  sharks  will  devour  a  man  as 
soon  as  look  at  him,  if  they  get  a  chance ;  but  a  more 
delusive  one  was  never  entertained.  Of  the  many  dif- 
ferent varieties  of  sharks,  there  are  but  two  that  will  at- 
tack a  man  in  the  water.  These  are  the  blue  shark,  and 
the  ground^  or  shovel-nosed  shark.  No  more  danger  need 
be  apprehended  from  the  common  brown  shark  than 
from  a  porpoise.  We  have  often  seen  a  Kanaka  jump 
overboard  in  a  perfectly  calm  day,  and  swim  after  them 
with  a  sheath-knife,  endeavoring  to  stab  them,  but  John- 
ny Shark  would  keep  out  of  his  reach.  And  whenever 
we  had  a  whale  alongside,  the  sharks  would  be  around 
in  great  numbers,  and  yet  never  touch  the  boat-steerer, 
who  was  overboard  on  the  whale.  But  of  the  blue  and 
ground  sharks,  the  farther  one  keeps  from  them  the  bet- 
ter for  his  safety.  On  the  night  of  Sunday,  October 
23d,  one  of  the  officers  of  the  "  South  Boston,"  while 
walking  the  deck,  made  a  misstep  and  fell  overboard. 
Hearing  the  splash,  some  of  the  crew  jumped  into  the 
boat  alongside,  and  hauled  under  the  stern,  where  the 
man  had  fallen;  but  no  sign  or  trace  was  to  be  seen  of 
him.  He  was  an  excellent  swimmer,  but,  in  all  proba- 
bility, was  seized  by  one  of  the  numerous  ground-sharks 
that  prowl  round  the  shipping  in  port.  The  water  in 
Lahaina  is  very  clear,  the  bottom  being- distinctly  visi- 
ble at  the  depth  of  twenty  fathoms,  or  one  hundred  and 
twenty  feet;  and,  although  every  search  was  made  the 


THE  SOUTH   PACIFIC.  331 

next  morning  at  daylight,  the  body  could  nowhere  be 
found.  No  doubt  now  remained  but  he  had  fallen  a  vic- 
tim to  the  rapacity  of  the  voracious  ground-shark. 

On  the  afternoon  of  this  Sabbath  we  attended  service 
in  the  Kanaka  church.  It  was  filled  with  natives  of 
both  sexes,  intermingled  with  whites,  of  whom  here  and 
there  might  be  seen  one.  The  interior  of  the  church  is 
fashioned  similar  to  our  American  ones — very  tasty  and 
neat,  without  being  gaudy.  In  the  morning  the  sermon 
is  delivered  in  the  native  tongue ;  in  the  afternoon,  in 
English. 

The  natives  of  these  islands,  like  all  others  who  have 
been  visited  by  Europeans,  have  suffered  from  the  dread- 
ful ravages  of  diseases  brought  by  the  latter.  During 
our  stay  at  Lahaina,  the  small-pox  raged  with  great  vio- 
lence there  and  at  Honolulu.  Hundreds  of  the  natives 
were  swept  oif,  and,  what  appeared  very  singular,  scarce- 
ly a  white  man  was  attacked,  and  none  died  from  it,  al- 
though hundreds  of  seamen  were  daily  exposed. 

In  the  following  chapter  we  give  a  "legend,"  as  re- 
lated to  us  by  an  old  native  whose  acquaintance  we 
formed,  probably  the  "  oldest  inhabitant ;"  and  then, 
with  the  reader,  we  will  be  "  homeward  bound." 


382  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE   IN 


CHAPTEE  XXYII. 

■^    Legend  of  Kinau  and  Tuanoa :  a  Tale  of  the  Sandwich  Islands. 

A  HEAVY  gloom  was  upon  the  minds  of  the  people 
of  Wauhoo  in  consequence  of  the  recent  death  of  their 
king,  Hoapili.  Melancholy  filled  their  hearts ;  wailings 
and  lamentations  of  various  kinds  were  heard  over  all 
parts  of  the  island.  Every  grade  mourned  for  the  regal 
victim  of  death ;  and  men,  women,  and  children  were 
seen  tearing  their  hair,  wounding  themselves  with  sharp- 
pointed  weapons,  tearing  their  flesh  with  sharks'  teeth, 
and  breaking  their  own  front  teeth  with  stones,  to  con- 
vince each  other  of  the  acuteness  of  their  sorrows;  and, 
above  all,  they  prepared,  as  was  their  usual  custom  on 
such  events,  to  offer  up  to  the  Great  Spirit  five  human 
beings  as  a  sacrifice.  Many  a  loving  maiden,  when  she 
heard  of  the  king's  death,  felt  a  pang  rush  through  her 
heart  and  a  whirling  through  her  brain  as  she  thought 
of  the  youth  who  had  won  her  affections. 

On  such  occasions,  it  was  customary  for  the  eric,  or 
chief  of  each  district,  to  select  a  young  man  from  that 
part  of  the  country  over  which  he  had  control,  and  to 
send  him  to  the  proper  place  as  one  of  the  victims  to  be 
immolated  at  the  shrine  of  the  deceased  king.  Thus 
there  was  a  dreadful  uncertainty  in  the  minds  of  the 
whole  people  until  the  unfortunates  were  chosen ;  and 
there  was  no  appeal  from  the  will  of  the  eric ;  so  that, 
when  the  summons  was  made,  there  remained  no  hope 
for  the  unhappy  chosen  one. 

In  the  village  of  "Waikukii,  of  which  Nahi  was  the 
eric,  or  chieftain,  lived  Tuanoa,  a  young  man,  and  Ki- 
nau, his  betrothed  bride.     They  had  resided  near  each 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  383 

other  from  their  infancy,  and,  even  in  the  early  dawning 
of  the  mind  and  the  affections,  they  were  observed  con- 
stantly together ;  and  no  doubt,  at  that  time,  there  was 
interwoven  with  their  young  heartstrings  the  tender  pas- 
sion of  love,  that "  grew  with  their  growth  and  strength- 
ened with  their  strength."  Tuanoa  was  a  fine  young 
man,  much  beloved  by  his  neighbors.  He  was  active 
and  brave  in  the  extreme,  and  he  had  performed  many 
acts  of  prowess,  which  gave  him  a  standing-place  within 
the  circle  of  the  conquerors  at  a  feast,  or  "hoolahoola;" 
and  he  was,  withal,  of  a  most  kind  and  affectionate  dis- 
position, of  which  his  friends  and  neighbors  were  well 
aware.  Kinau,  his  beloved  maiden,  was  the  most  beau- 
tiful girl  in  the  village,  and  of  good  family  and  estate  ; 
besides  which,  she  was  the  most  esteemed  tappa-maker 
in  the  whole  island.  None  of  her  competitors  could  ap- 
proach her  genius,  which  was  so  frequently  displayed  in 
designing  figures  and  ornaments  to  adorn  her  produc- 
tions, so  that  her  tappas  (native  cloths)  exceeded  in  beau- 
ty and  strength  those  of  all  others,  and  they  were  worn 
by  the  king  and  queen.  Her  disposition  was  of  that 
rare  and  delightful  description  which  finds  pleasure  in 
searching  after  the  sorrows  of  others  in  order  to  relieve 
them,  and  blessing  itself  that  it  had  .the  power  to  do  so. 
With  such  a  person,  disposition,  and  possessions,  we  can 
not  wonder  that  Kinau  was  much  beloved,  and  that  Tu- 
anoa was  so  much  envied  by  the  spirited  young  men  of 
the  village.  But  they  enjoyed  no  hope  of  gaining  the 
object  of  their  admiration,  for  she  took  every  opportuni- 
ty of  expressing  her  undying  love  for  Tuanoa,  and  he 
to  her. 

Notwithstanding  all  this,  there  had  been  an  eye  fixed 
long  and  ardently  upon  Kinau,  and  she  was  well  aware 
of  the  fact,  much  to  her  sorrow ;  and  many  a  burning 
tear,  as  it  rolled  over  her  beautiful  cheek,  awakened  in 
Tuanoa's  breast  a  powerful  feeling  of  regret,  mingled 


384  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

with  surprise  at  the  unhappy  change  which  had  come 
over  the  mind  of  his  beloved.  How  often  did  he  en- 
treat, in  tenderest  words,  for  the  avowal  of  the  cause, 
which  never  was  fully  given.  Kinau  full  well  knew 
that  if  Tuanoa  were  to  be  made  aware  of  the  fact,  he 
would  commit  some  rash  act  that  would  most  probably 
hurl  them  both  to  destruction ;  and  she  left  the  whole  to 
chance,  hoping  that  soon  a  day  would  come  when  the 
dark  cloud  of  anticipated  misfortune  would  be  dispelled, 
and  the  sunshine  of  her  love  again  break  forth  strong 
and  clear. 

It  was  the  eye  of  the  powerful  eric  Nahi  which  had 
fallen  on  Kinau,  and  he  had  even  sought  a  private  in- 
terview with  her,  and  declared  his  love ;  but  she  reso- 
lutely refused  to  listen  to  his  advances  a  moment. 
"What!"  said  the  haughty  eric,  "do  you  refuse  to  lis- 
ten to  the  voice  of  Nahi,  your  chief?  Daughter  of  my 
neighbor,  tremble !  Let  tears  as  salt  as  the  waters  of  the 
ocean  fall  quick  and  fast  from  thy  earth-bound  eye ! 
Refuse  to  listen  to  the  voice  of  Nahi,  and  the  volcano  of 
Waikukii  shall  consume  the  blood  of  Tuanoa,  as  the 
shark  of  the  ocean  devours  the  newly -hatched  turtle." 

"  Oh  great  Nahi,"  answered  Kinau,  "  suffer  your 
neighbor's  daughter  to  return  the  love  of  Tuanoa,  whose 
love,  like  mine,  burns  as  the  fire  of  the  volcano,  which 
the  waters  of  the  ocean  can  not  quench." 

"  Tremble !"  exclaimed  the  eric,  "  daughter  of  Kuaki- 
ni,  and  the  beloved  of  Tuanoa.  Go  from  the  presence 
of  Nahi,  and  let  there  be  no  more  said." 

Kinau  went  from  his  presence  with  trembling  limbs 
and  a  palpitating  heart.  She  knew  the  disposition  of 
Nahi ;  cruel  and  vindictive  in  the  extreme,  he  spared 
nothing  to  obtain  the  object  of  his  wishes.  He  had  com- 
mitted many  crimes,  for  which  he  had  often  been  re- 
proved by  the  late  king  and  his  fellow  erics.  The  peo- 
]3le,  also,  were  disgusted  with  his  tyrannical  conduct,  and 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  335 

these  things  combined  caused  him  to  be  more  careful 
than  he  had  been  in  the  earlier  part  of  his  government. 
Kinau  was  well  aware  of  this,  and  she  therefore  trusted 
that  he  would  cease  his  importunities ;  but  she  dreaded 
his  revenge,  as  she  well  knew  that  if  an  opportunity 
should  ever  present  itself  whereby  he  might  injure  her 
or  Tuanoa,  and  escape  the  observation  of  the  people 
from  the  apparent  injustice  of  the  act,  he  would  seize 
upon  it  with  avidity ;  and  this  was  the  cause  of  her  de- 
jection. 

The  king,  Hoapili,  had  been  dangerously  ill  for  some 
days,  and  the  active  mind  of  Kinau  saw  the  dreadful 
chasm  which  might  be  opened  to  receive  her  in  the 
event  of  the  king's  death.  She  knew  that  Nahi  had  the 
power  of  choosing  one  of  the  victims  for  the  sacrifice, 
and  the  thought  almost  bereft  her  of  her  senses.  She 
well  knew  that  Tuanoa,  the  brave  and  beloved  Tuanoa, 
would  be  sacrificed  to  the  revenge  of  the  cruel  eric ;  and, 
under  these  trying  circumstances,  the  constitution  of  Ki- 
nau evidently  began  to  decline,  much  to  the  grief  of  her 
lover,  who  perceived  his  beautiful  companion,  like  a  love- 
ly flower  beset  by  the  canker-worm,  silently  robbed  of 
her  beauty.  He  saw  the  devastation  it  committed,  but 
could  not  discover  its  retreat.  Kinau  still  kept  the  se- 
cret within  her  own  breast. 

One  evening,  as,  to  their  minds,  the  sun  was  once  more 
going  to  rest  in  the  deep  bosom  of  the  ocean,  the  lovers 
reclined  on  the  shelving  and  moss-covered  rocks  which 
were  near  to  the  habitation  of  Kinau,  in  the  beautiful  val- 
ley of  Menoa.  The  broad-leaved  banana  waved  around 
them,  and  fanned  their  cheeks  with  the  sweet-scented 
evening  air,  when,  just  as  the  Pele  of  Nuanu  cast  its  deep 
shadow  across  the  valley  of  her  fathers,  a  distant  cry  of 
sorrow  fell  upon  the  ears  of  the  unhappy  pair.  To  Ki- 
nau's  mind  the  cause  was  revealed  in  an  instant.  "  The 
king  is  gone !"  shrieked  the  unhappy  maid.     "  Oh,  Tu- 


336  LIFE  AKD  ADVEJJfTUKE  LJf 

anoa,  let  ns  fl j ;  let  us  bury  ourselves  in  the  depths  of 
the  oceau,  for  death  is  for  us  also !"  The  extreme  agi- 
tation of  her  mind  robbed  her  of  her  senses ;  and  as  sli 
lay,  apparently  without  life,  in  the  arms  of  her  beloved 
and  tiiunder-stricken  Tuanoa,  a  number  of  their  friends 
quickly  approached  the  scene  to  render  a^istance,  and 
to  inquire  the  cause  of  the  outcry. 

"  Neighbors,"  exclaimed  the  bewildered  Tuanoa, "  my 
peace  is  broken ;  my  beloved  is  no  longer  herself;  the 
spirit  of  darkness  has  been  here  and  stolen  the  light  of 
her  soul !"  While  they  weye  using  means  to  restore  Ki- 
nau  to  her  senses  and  to  comfort  Tuanoa,  a  band  of  per 
sons  approached,  and  proclaimed,  amid  loud  wailings, 
that  HoapUi  the  Good  had  given  his  last  breath  to  the 
winds ;  and  from  out  this  mass  of  phrensied  human  be- 
ings rushed  three  men,  with  disordered  dress  and  dishev- 
eled hair,  with  red  streams  of  blood  gushing  from  self- 
inflicted  wounds,  and  approached  Tuanoa.  They  imme- 
diately produced  from  under  their  torn  tappas  the  fatal 
sommons  from  the  eric  Nahi,  which  consisted  merely  of 
three  dark-colored  poisonous  nuts,  delineated  with  cer- 
tain inscriptions  and  figures.  Too  well  the  brave  Tua- 
noa knew  their  import,  but  he  was  helpless  before  them. 
They  presented  them  to  him  with  certain  forms  and  cer- 
emonies, and  then,  as  if  impatient  for  his  heart's  best 
blood,  leaped  upon  and  bound  him  securely.  Astonish- 
ment filled  the  minds  of  aU  his  neighbors,  who  stood 
around  Kinau,  their  hearts  ready  to  burst  with  grief. 
They  knew  not  the  revengeful  feelings  which  had  actu. 
ated  the  hated  eric  to  the  choice  of  the  best  person  in 
the  village  instead  of  the  worst,  as  was  the  usual  cus- 
tom ;  for  there  was  even  a  by-word  among  them,  which 
was  addressed  to  persons  of  bad  repute,  "  Ah !  you  will 
serve  for  the  fire — you  will  serve  for  the  fire,"  ineaning 
that  they  would  serve  for  the  purpose  for  which  Tuanoa 
had  been  taken.  When  the  sounds  of  the  phrensied  mul- 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  887 

titude  had  passed  away,  and  had  left  the  yalley  of  Me- 
noa  again  to  its  solemn  quietude,  and  there  was  only 
heard  at  intervals  from  out  the  group  which  still  sur- 
rounded the  bereft  and  senseless  maiden  the  low  mur- 
mur or  the  sorrowful  exclamation  for  the  departed  king 
and  the  sorrows  of  the  divided  lovers,  Kinau  opened  her 
discolored  eyes,  and  shot  them  around  the  group,  but 
saw  not  Tuanoa. 

"  Ah !"  she  exclaimed,  "  half  of  my  soul  has  expired. 
Friends  and  neighbors,  go ;  stay  not  with  Kinau ;  the 
sun  no  longer  shines  upon  her  tarro-patches  ;*  the  water 
of  the  mountain  has  also  turned  fixim  their  roots,  and 
has  fallen  into  the  hands  of  Nahi." 

Her  kind  neighbors  did  all  in  their  power  to  comfort 
her  in  her  great  afl&iction,  and  then  left  her  to  the  care 
of  her  aged  parents.  Nature  soon  overcame  the  infirm 
pair  with  sleep,  and  Kinau  left  her  home,  never  more  to 
return  except  with  her  beloved  Tuanoa. 

The  past  few  months  had  altered  the  lovely  Kinau 
very  much.  Her  features  were  shrunken  and  distorted ; 
her  hair  torn  and  loose ;  her  dark  eyes,  rolling  and  flash- 
insr,  betokened  the  storm  within ;  her  heavinsj  bosom 
gave  proof  of  the  agitated  heart ;  but  her  step  was  firm, 
and  she  stood  erect,  as  if,  with  the  last  effort  of  a  shat- 
tered frame,  she  had  determined  to  devote  all  her  re- 
maining strength  to  one  great  purpose.  She  was  con- 
vinced that  there  remained  no  hope  from  human  means 
for  the  restoration  of  her  beloved  Tuanoa,  and  she  there- 
fore determined  to  visit  the  enchanter  Kelkuewa,  a  thing 
seldom  or  scarcely  ever  attempted  before,  even  by  the 
bravest  of  the  erics.  But  Kinau,  feeling  strong  in  her 
virtuous  cause,  feared  not,  and  dared  destruction  in  its 
wildest  forms.  Kelkuewa,  the  enchanter,  resided  in  a 
glen  at  the  bottom  of  the  Peld  of  Nuanu,  and  near  the 

*  Shallow  ponds  of  water,  in  which  the  tcaro  is  Cultivated  with  great 
care,  similar  to  those  in  which  rice  is  prown. 

r 


838  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

entrance  of  which  the  enchanted  waterfall  of  two  thou- 
sand feet  in  descent  finished  its  perpendicular  career. 
Here  was  the  supposed  habitation  of  a  lizard  as  large  as 
a  man,  which  the  tradition  of  the  islanders  claims  as  hav- 
ing resided  there  since  the  Flood. 

Kinau,  with  firm  determination,  commenced  her  task. 
Passing  alone,  away  from  her  friends  and  neighbors, 
over  the  dark  plains  in  the  valley  of  Menoa,  she  soon 
began  to  ascend  the  steep  and  rugged  mountain  of  Nu- 
anu,  and,  after  excessive  exertion,  reached  its  summit. 
She  cast  her  wild  eyes  around,  and  saw  the  dark  ocean 
which  encompasses  Wauhoo ;  she  could  hear  its  distant 
roar  as  it  broke  with  violence  on  the  weather  side  of  the 
island ;  the  chilly  and  unruly  blast  of  the  night- wind  al- 
most forced  her  slender  figure  from  the  pointed  rock  on 
which  she,  for  a  moment,  rested ;  her  loose  hair  lashed 
her  burning  forehead  with  its  violence.  Behind  her  was 
the  valley  of  Menoa,  in  which  she  had  met  the  last  look 
of  her  beloved  Tuanoa ;  before  her  was  the  valley  of 
Nuanu,  four  thousand  feet  in  depth.  Midway  dashing 
its  white  foam,  she  could  just  observe  the  enchanted 
stream  gushing  out  of  a  small  division  in  the  rocks,  and 
falling  two  thousand  feet  into  the  valley  below,  at  the 
bottom  of  which  the  enchanter  resided.  Still  determ- 
ined to  visit  him  or  die  in  the  attempt,  she  began  the 
fearful  descent  of  the  Peld  of  Nuanu,  and  after  great  dif- 
ficulties— ^now  clinging  to  the  branches  of  some  friendly 
tree,  and  now  sliding  in  various  positions — she  succeed- 
ed in  reaching  the  source  of  the  waterfall.  Almost  over- 
come with  fatigue  and  contending  emotions,  she  here 
rested.  A  torrent  of  tears  relieved  her  aching  heart, 
and  she  again  commenced  the  arduous  task  of  descend- 
ing, by  the  side  of  the  foaming  stream,  over  slippery 
rocks  and  sharp  craggy  points,  her  feet  torn  and  bleed- 
ing, her  heart  almost  broken,  and  her  weary  frame  near- 
ly exhausted.     Her  disordered  imagination,  blinded  by 


THE   SOUTH  PACIFIC.  339 

her  tears,  saw  visions  of  darkness  and  despair  hanging 
from  every  rock ;  and  the  murmuring  of  the  trees,  as 
they  were  moved  by  the  wind,  appeared  like  the  voices 
of  her  foes  imploring  for  her  destruction.  But  still  Ki- 
nau  wended  her  way — yes,  the  tender  yet  powerful  pas- 
sion of  love  supported  her — the  passion  of  love  in  wom- 
an, invincible  love,  which  has  caused  the  "  change  of 
empires  and  the  loss  of  worlds,"  has  "  inspired  heroism 
and  subdued  avarice."  She  succeeded  in  reaching  the 
glen,  where  she  bathed  her  bleeding  feet  for  a  moment 
in  the  waters  of  the  cascade.  The  moon,  which  had 
before  been  hidden  behind  dark  clouds,  now  peeped 
through  an  opening  in  them,  as  if  anxious  to  look  upon 
the  devoted  girl  and  admire  her  fortitude.  The  large 
gray  owl,  which  inhabits  the  valleys,  flapped  his  broad 
wings  over  her  head  as  he  moused  among  the  rocks; 
and  the  quick-flying  bat  darted  in  and  out  of  his  caves, 
as  if  disturbed  by  the  intruder.  Lifting  up  her  eyes,  Ki- 
nau  beheld  a  tall  old  man  descending  the  Pele.  Quickly 
he  took  advantage  of  each  jutting  point  of  rock  to  se- 
cure his  footsteps,  and  he  descended  with  apparent  ease 
to  the  spot  where  Kinau  rested.  Long  gray  hair  fell 
over  his  shoulders,  and  he  thus  addressed  the  maiden : 

"  Daughter  of  Kuakini,  and  the  beloved  of  Tuanoa,! 
am  he  whom  you  seek.  I  have  followed  you  from  the 
valley  of  Menoa ;  I  have  watched  and  feel  astonished  at 
your  strength,  fortitude,  and  love.  I  know  the  spirit  of 
darkness  has  come  over  you  when  the  gladness  of  your 
heart  was  taken  from  you.  Your  love  for  the  brave  Tu- 
anoa is  like  the  mountain  of  Nuanu,  fixed  forever,  and 
can  not  change ;  it  is  clear  and  bright  as  the  water  that 
falls  from  the  Pele  ;  it  is  like  the  fire  of  the  volcano  of 
Waikukii,  which  is  unquenchable.  Daughter  of  Kua- 
kini, arise !  go  to  the  valley  of  thy  fathers,  and  rest  in 
the  bosom  of  thy  neighbors ;  for  I  have  seen  a  Great 
Spirit,  who,  before  to-morrow's  sun  reacheth  the  valley 


340  LIFE  AND  ADVE^^TURE   IN 

of  Nuanu,  shall  come  and  save  thy  Tuanoa  from  the 
blood-consuming  fire." 

"Oh  great  Kelkuewa,"  said  Kinau,  "your  -words  are 
like  water  to  the  parched  tarro ;  they  are  like  the  wa- 
ters of  the  ocean  to  the  expiring  fish,  which  the  fisher- 
man returns  to  its  element,  I  feel  my  heart  lightened ; 
the  cold  hand  of  the  spirit  of  darkness  has  moved  from 
my  heart.  Oh  Kelkuewa,"  continued  the  enraptured 
girl,  "  they  say  you  have  no  daughter.  I  will  be  your 
daughter ;  I  will  make  your  tappas ;  I  will  water  your 
tarro-patches,  though  I  bring  the  water  from  the  other 
side  of  the  mountain  of  Nuanu."  The  enchanter  seized 
the  hand  of  Kinau,  assisted  her  over  the  Pele,  and  saw 
her  descend  to  the  valley  of  her  fathers. 

The  morn  of  the  day  on  which  the  tragedy  was  to  be 
ended  appeared.  Before  the  sun  had  risen,  thousands 
of  the  islanders  were  moving  toward  the  plains  of  Why- 
teetee,  on  which  the  immolation  of  the  victims  was  to 
take  place.  Lamentations  were  heard  over  the  whole 
island.  The  plains  of  Whyteetee  were  soon  covered 
with  countless  multitudes,  and  five  immense  fires  were 
lighted.  As  the  sun  rose,  the  odor  from  the  burning 
sandal- wood  perfumed  the  whole  of  Wauhoo.  In  an  in- 
closure  about  one  hundred  feet  long  and  fifty  from  front 
to  back,  the  front  wall  of  which  was  about  six  feet  high, 
and  the  back  about  twelve,  formed  of  loose  stones  or 
masses  of  lava  piled  upon  each  other,  and  situated  upon 
a  rise  of  ground  at  the  end  of  the  plain,  facing  the  sea, 
the  five  victims  were  placed. 

On  a  mass  of  rocks  about  one  hundred  feet  high,  which 
rise  abruptly  out  of  the  plains,  and  command  a  view  for 
a  considerable  distance  around,  sat  the  princes  and  chiefs, 
with  all  the  great  men  of  the  island.  Among  them  Nahi 
was  observed  in  a  conspicuous  situation,  watching  the 
proceedings  with  great  earnestness,  for  he  had  heard  that 
Kinau  had  visited  the  enchanted  glen,  and  he  had  heard 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  841 

also  of  the  prophecy  of  Kelkuewa.  Indeed,  it  was  upon 
the  lips  of  every  one,  and  many  hoped  that  the  prophecy 
would  be  fulfilled.  The  more  noble  of  the  erics  and 
people  began  to  look  upon  these  cruel  exhibitions  with 
disgust,  and  to  long  for  a  pretext  for  abolishing  'them. 
They  saw  the  abuse,  if  we  may  so  call  it,  to  which  it  was 
liable,  from  the  base  conduct  of  Nahi,  and  yet,  being  a 
national  custom,  it  was  hard  to  abolish. 

The  proceedings  of  the  assembly  soon  commenced. 
The  first  victim,  who  happened  to  be  an  abandoned 
wretch,  was  led  out  of  the  inclosure  by  the  priests,  and 
thrust  among  the  multitude.  There  were  plenty  of  the 
wild  and  infuriated  to  commence  the  attack,  by  hurling 
stones  and  beating  the  unfortunate  victim  with  any 
weapon  with  which  they  might  have  provided  them- 
selves for  the  occasion,  and  he  was  hunted  to  and  fro 
like  a  wild  beast,  until  the  spark  of  life  was  nearly  ex- 
tinct; then  he  was  hurled  upon  the  funeral  pile,  amid 
the  wild  exclamations  of  the  savage  throng,  while  "liquid 
fire  curled  round  his  limbs,  and  to  his  hissing  bones  and 
marrow  clung." 

Kinau,  surrounded  by  her  kindred,  was  seen  in  an  ag- 
itated state,  frequently  looking  toward  the  Pele  of  Nua- 
nu,  and  wondering  how  the  Great  Spirit  would  interpose 
to  save  her  beloved  Tuanoa.  Sornetimes,  full  of  hope, 
her  countenance  would  brighten,  and  she  appeared  to 
possess  new  life;  then  again  she  would  doubt  the  en- 
chanter's successful  interference,  and  her  spirits  would 
sink.  Thus  was  her  gentle  bosom  torn  with  a  thousand 
conflicting  emotions.  Despair  for  a  moment  shadowed 
her  invincible  spirit  with  his  dark  and  death-hovering 
wings,  and  the  beloved  Kinau  felt  that  she  would  will- 
ingly sacrifice  her  own  life  to  save  that  of  her  lover. 
Tuanoa  observed  his  adored  girl  with  those  acute  feel- 
ings which  the  pencil  can  not  paint  nor  the  pen  justly 
describe.     He  was  bound  to  the  insensate  stake,  which 


342  LIFE  AlfD  ADVENTURE  IN 

lieard  not  tlie  heart's  flutter  or  the  despairing  sigh — 
which  felt  not  the  tremulous  shake  of  the  confined  but 
powerful  limb  that  strove  in  vain  to  break  from  its  move- 
less grasp.  At  last,  despairing,  he  hung  from  his  con- 
finement, apparently  a  lifeless  being. 

Another  unfortunate  but  criminal  victim  was  now 
given  to  the  infuriated  multitude  and  sacrificed ;  and  the 
next  was  to  be  Tuanoa,  the  beloved  and  innocent  Tua- 
noa,  who  was  insensible  now  from  the  mental  anguish 
he  had  suffered.  To  die  so  young,  and  such  a  horrid 
death  —  to  go  and  leave  his  Kinau  behind — this  was 
more  than  he  could  bear,  and  he  fainted  from  misery. 
The  brave  maiden  could  no  longer  bear  this  uncertainty. 
She  rushed  through  the  crowd  of  her  kindred — scaled 
the  walls  of  the  inclosure — glided  between  the  guards 
with  a  supernatural  quickness,  and  encircled  with  her 
devoted  arms  her  beloved.  But  the  guards  and  the 
priests  quickly  proceeded  to  separate  them ;  and  now 
they  unbound,  and  were  about  to  thrust  the  bewildered 
Tuanoa  among  the  savage  group  who  thirsted  for  his 
blood.  The  gate  of  the  inclosure  was  thrown  open ;  al- 
ready the  savage  hand  was  raised  to  smite  with  deadly 
violence ;  already  the  maddened  and  phrensied  eyes  of 
fanatic  men  were  gleaming  with  murderous  excitement 
to  grace  the  royal  death ;  the  impatient,  loyal  crowd, 
heap  upon  heap,  swayed  to  and  fro  in  their  eagerness  to 
slay  one  of  themselves — one,  too,  who  had  been  former- 
ly beloved  by  them,  and  for  whom  they  would  have 
made  great  sacrifices,  but  now  hated  and  condemned; 
and  they  impatiently  thirsted  for  his  blood. 

But  the  enchanter  at  this  moment  appeared  among 
the  people.  In  a  loud  voice  he  commanded  their  atten- 
tion, and  pointed  to  an  object  which  was  seen  upon  the 
ocean  at  a  great  distance.  All  eyes  were  instantly  di- 
rected, in  great  wonder,  toward  it.  During  the  confu- 
sion, a  stone  was  hurled  by  an  unseen  hand,  which  struck 


THE   SOUTH   PACIFIC.  843 

Nahi,  and  killed  him  in  an  instant ;  but  the  event  scarce- 
ly received  attention.  The  object  to  which  the  enchant- 
er still  pointed  approached  the  island  rapidly.  It  ap- 
peared larger  every  moment,  and  in  a  short  time  its  col- 
or was  distinguishable.  Fear  and  curiosity  increased, 
for  never  had  the  people  witnessed  such  a  sight  before. 
At  times  it  appeared  of  an  immense  breadth,  with  wide- 
spreading  wings,  and  in  a  moment  or  two  would  appear 
quite  narrow,  but  of  great  height.  Occasionally  its  ap- 
parent wings  shook ;  then  anon  the  whole  mass  appear- 
ed to  stoop  to  the  surface  of  the  ocean.  Swayed  by 
an  irresistible  impulse,  princes,  erics,  and  people  went 
down  to  the  edge  of  the  sea.  The  liberated  victims,  sur- 
rounded by  their  kindred,  followed.  The  prophecy  was 
fulfilled.  They  were  liberated  by  common  consent. 
Never  can  poet  or  painter  describe  or  represent  the  two 
enraptured  lovers,  as  they  appeared  walking  together  on 
the  beach,  having  but  "  one  soul  in  a  divided  body." 

Eeader !  the  "Great  Spirit"  which  so  rapidly  approach- 
ed, and  was  bringing  to  those  islanders  light  to  disperse 
their  darkness,  humanity  and  religion  to  abolish  their 
cruelties,  the  arts  and  sciences  to  banish  their  ignorance, 
was  the  great  spirit  of  the  immortal  navigator  CooK,  who 
had  just  discovered  those  fertile  islands,  and  whose  ship 
had  been  observed  by  the  enchanter  on  the  previous 
evening  from  the  heights  of  the  Pel^  of  ISTuanu. 


344  LIFE   AND   ADVENTURE   IN 


CHAPTER  XXVni. 

"  Homeward  bound"  at  last. — The  prevailing  Feeling. — Wanhoo  and 
Atoowi. — "Stowaways." — Farewell  to  the  Sandwich  Islands. — Ship 
"Uncas." — On  the  Equator. — ^Whytootucke. — Roratongo. — Meeting 
of  old  Friends. — Interesting  Missionary  Incidents. — A  good  Reason. 
— Good-by  to  Roratongo. — Preparing  for  Cape  Horn. — Christmas. — 
A  heavy  Gale. — Off  Cape  Horn. — New  Experiences. — In  the  Atlantic 
again. — Ship  "Betsey  Williams." — Brazilian  Coast. — North  of  the 
Line. — Hurra  for  Yankee  Land. — Brig  "Alpha." — Try-works  over- 
board. —  Scudding  off  Bermuda.  —  Gulf  Stream. — Soundings. — Old 
"Hard-a-lee." — The  old  Adage. — "Home  at  last!" — Conclusion. 

To  the  reader  who  has  followed  us  through  the  wan- 
derings of  more  than  four  years,  we  tender  our  thanks, 
and  beg  his  indulgence  through  our  "  homeward  bound" 
passage,  where  we  will  take  leave  of  him,  with  the  kind- 
est wishes  for  his  prosperity  and  happiness. 

On  Monday,  October  31st,  we  commenced  our  prep- 
arations for  sea.  All  were  anxiously  longing  for  the 
time  to  come  when  we  should  see  the  ship's  head  point- 
ed toward  home. 

We  had  discharged  several  men  who  shipped  with  us 
at  different  times  during  the  voyage  "  for  the  last  port," 
and  it  became  necessary  to  procure  more  for  "'the  pas- 
sage home."  These  were  now  all  on  board,  and  we  only 
waited  the  arrival  of  the  captain  and  lady  to  take  up  our 
anchor,  loose  our  sails,  and  be  under  way.  The  day 
came.  Tuesday,  November  1st,  the  joyful  command  was 
given  to  "  heave  away."  The  old  windlass  brakes  rat- 
tled merrily,  and 

"  Huzza !  we're  homeward  bound !" 
j'ang  out  in  full  clear  chorus  from  every  voice  on  board, ' 
till  the  hills  and  mountains  of  Maui  echoed  back  the 
sound.     We  could  see  the  faces  of  our  brother  whale- 


THE  SOUTH   PACIFIC.  847 

men  around  us  as  they  looked,  no  doubt,  enviously  at 
our  craft,  thinking  of  the  long  season  yet  on  the  "  nor'- 
west"  to  be  gone  through  before  they  could  sing  as  we 
did.  But  we  felt  that  we  had  a  right  to  be  happy.  For 
more  than  four  long  and  weary  years  had  the  ship  been 
our  floating  home.  We  had  labored,  toiled  incessantly, 
in  storm  and  in  calm — in  the  boats  and  on  board  ship — 
beneath  the  scorching  heat  of  the  tropical  sun,  and  the 
freezing  cold  of  rigid  climes — been  exposed  to  all  dan- 
gers both  on  sea  and  land — and  now,  we  hoped,  we  were 
going  home  to  enjoy  the  fruit  of  our  hard-earned  sav- 
ings. Going  home !  None  but  they  who  have  been  sep- 
arated from  near  and  dear  friends,  as  we  had  been,  for 
years,  can  fully  realize  the  joy  which  these  words  pro- 
duced. 

The  ponderous  anchor  was  soon  raised  from  its  coral 
bed  and  snugly  stowed  away  upon  the  bows ;  all  sail 
was  set,  and  we  gladly  left  the  anchorage  of  Lahaina 
with  strong  northeast  trades.  We  shaped  our  course 
west-northwest  for  the  island  of  Atoowi.  The  follow- 
ing day  we  passed  to  the  southward  of  Wauhoo,  which 
was  plainly  in  sight,  and  "stood  off  and  on"  Atoowi. 
We  procured  several  boat-loads  of  sweet  potatoes,  yams, 
and  other  recruits,  and  then  shaped  our  course  for  the 
Society  Islands.  About  an  hour  after  leaving  Atoowi 
a  stranger  made  his  appearance  on  deck.  This  took  the 
captain  rather  by  surprise,  and  he  inquired  of  him  "  who 
he  was  and  whence  he  came."  The  man  replied  that 
"  he  belonged  to  the  ' ,'  and  did  not  wish  to  try  an- 
other season  in  the  Arctic,  and  did  want  to  get  home ; 
was  willing  to  work  his  passage,  and  hoped  the  captain 
would  allow  him  to  go  home  in  the  ship."  After  giv- 
ing him  a  long  lecture  upon  the  evils  of  desertion,  the 
old  man  consented  that  he  should  remain,  and  he  went 
forward  with  a  happy  heart. 

On  Friday,  November  11th,  we  spoke  the  "  Uncas," 


348  LIFE   AND   ADVENTURE  IN 

of  New  Bedford,  Captain  James,  like  ourselves,  bound 
home.  We  had  a  very  pleasant  "  gam"  with  them,  talk- 
ing of  the  pleasures  we  were  to  enjoy,  and  anticipating 
with  them  great  happiness.  Our  captain  threw  down 
the  gauntlet  to  Captain  J.  for  a  race  to  New  Bedford, 
which  he  gallantly  accepted,  and,  we  must  confess,  as 
gallantly  won. 

Nothing  of  great  interest  to  us  occurred,  except  cross- 
ing the  equator  for  the  last  time  in  the  Pacific,  until  we 
reached  the  Societies.  We  felt,  at  the  time  we  crossed 
the  line,  that  another  goal  was  reached  and  passed — that 
another  "  milestone"  in  our  journey  was  gone  by.  We 
sighted  the  island  of  Whytootucke,  one  of  the  Society 
Islands,  on  Friday,  December  9th.  We  passed  it,  and  on 
the  following  day  raised  Eoratongo,  distant  fifty  miles. 
Language  is  inadequate  to  describe  the  feeling  of  our 
Kanakas  at  once  more  seeing  "my  land,"  as  they  called 
it  They  were  half  frantic  with  joy.  But  when  boat- 
loads of  the  natives  came  off  to  us  the  next  day  (having 
"  beat"  up  to  the  island  during  the  night),  and  they  found 
their  own  relatives  among  them,  we  actually  thought 
they  would  become  crazy.  We  can  not  describe  the 
scene.  We  can  only  give  the  reader  an  idea  of  their 
mode  of  salutation,  which  is  to  grasp. each  other  by  the 
right  hand,  place  the  other  over  the  back,  and  rub  noses 
very  affectionately !  With  all  our  pathetic  feeling,  we 
could  but  laugh  at  the  ludicrous  method.  But  this  meet- 
ing almost  brought  tears  to  our  eyes  as  we  thought  of 
those  whom  we  soon  hoped  to  meet. 

On  Monday,  December  12th,  the  boats  went  ashore  to 
bring  off  fruit.  Wishing  to  have  one  more  run  on  one 
of  "  the  Pacific  Isles,"  we  jumped  into  one  of  the  boats, 
and  were  soon  on  shore.  On  inquiry,  we  learned  that 
the  missionary  who  was  there  at  our  former  visit  had 
been  recalled,  and  that  Eev.  Mr.  Buyacott,  from  En- 
gland, who  had  been  stationed  there  many  years  before, 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  349 

was  again  among  them.  The  natives  appeared  greatly 
attached  to  him ;  and  we  must  relate  a  simple  incident 
of  this  attachment.  They  had  received  information  of 
his  coming,  and  when  the  boat  arrived  which  brought 
him  from  the  ship  to  the  shore,  it  was  instantly  seized 
by  the  natives  ere  he  had  time  to  land,  and  triumphant- 
ly borne,  with  great  rejoicings,  upon  their  shoulders  to 
the  market-place,  where  he  was  received  by  the  authori- 
ties and  his  old  friends  with  a  warmth  of  feeling  that  be- 
spoke how  universally  he  was  beloved,  and  how  rejoiced 
all  were  to  see  him  returned  to  them  again. 

They  had  lately  erected  a  fine  church  edifice  under 
his  supervision,  which  was  certainly  a  credit  to  him  as 
an  architect,  and  to  the  islanders.  Great  preparations 
were  making  for  its  dedication,  which  was  to  take  place 
in  a  few  weeks.  Under  his  care  and  example,  the  na- 
tives appeared  cheerful  and  happy ;  their  little  farms  well 
tUled,  and  themselves  well  dressed,  neat,  and  contented. 
All  united  in  saying  that  Mr.  Buyacott  was  a  most  ex- 
cellent man ;  and  the  interest  he  manifested  in  them, 
both  temporally  and  spiritually,  went  far  to  prove  it. 
Under  his  supervision  we  found  a  printing-office  in  op- 
eration, where  tracts,  papers,  and  hymns  were  printed  in 
the  native  language,  and  distributed,  not  only  in  Eora- 
tongo,  but  in  every  island  of  the  group.  We  found  also 
blacksmiths,  carpenters,  shoemakers,  and  nearly  all  kinds 
of  mechanics,  who  had  received  their  knowledge  from 
him.  His  residence  was  a  fine  stone  house  of  two  sto- 
ries, situated  on  a  gentle  rise  of  ground,  surrounded  by 
a  beautiful  yard  interspersed  with  shrubbery  and  flow- 
ers. A  fine  graveled  walk  led  from  the  gate  to  the 
house.  We  found  it  a  cool,  shady  retreat,  refreshed  by 
the  sea-breeze,  and  shaded  by  beautiful  orange  groves. 

But  it  was  time  for  us  to  leave  all  this  beauty  of  na- 
ture behind,  and  plow  our  way  homeward.  We  dis- 
charged all  our  Kanakas  save  one,  who  wished  to  re- 


350  LIFE   AND   ADVENT UKE   IN 

main  in  the  ship  and  go  to  America.  On  asking  him 
what  particular  reason  he  had  for  wishing  to  see  "  'Mer- 
ick,"  as  he  termed  it,  he  replied,  "  I  like  see  all ;  and  get 
my  sister  three  fathom  (six  yards)  red  ribbon!"  We 
thought  him  going  a  long  distance  for  "three  fathom 
red  ribbon,"  but,  as  he  said  "  plenty  time,"  we  gave  up 
the  argument. 

We  here  shipped  three  white  men  who  were  anxious 
to  go  to  America,  and,  having  loaded  the  old  ship  with 
tropical  fruit  for  the  last  time,  we  bade  our  Kanaka 
friends  adieu,  and  were  soon  on  our  way  home  again, 
steering  to  the  southward  for  a  westerly  wind  that  would 
send  us  to  the  coast. 

On  Friday,  December  16th,  we  commenced  our  prep- 
arations for  doubling  the  Cape.  First,  we  gave  the  old 
ship  a  new  suit  of  sails  throughout,  from  flying  jib  to 
spanker,  good  and  strong  ones,  that  would  stand  many 
a  heavy  storm.  Anchors  were  taken  in  on  deck ;  also 
the  bow  and  waist  boats,  and  every  thing  made  snug 
generally.  This  was  rendered  necessary  also  from  the 
fact  that  we  had  commenced  leaking  so  much  as  to  re- 
quire pumping  every  four  hours  ;  and,  these  precautions 
taken,  we  knew  that  she  would  not  strain  so  much  in 
heavy  weather. 

Sunday,  December  25th,  was  Christmas  with  us  as 
well  as  with  those  at  home.  And,  although  we  had  no 
visits  from  Santa  Claus,  we  felt  very  happy,  and  knew 
that  when  another  Christmas-day  came  round,  if  living, 
we  should  be  enjoying  it  with  loved  ones  at  home.  The 
best  on  board  ship  was  served  up  for  dinner,  and  all 
hands  enjoyed  it  with  a  keen  rehsh,  sharpened  by  the 
anticipation  of  the  good  things  yet  to  come.  We  were 
now  about  eighty  degrees  to  the  westward,  and  twenty 
to  the  northward  of  Cape  Horn. 

From  this  time  until  Tuesday,  January  24th,  we  bowl- 
ed it  along  merrily  with  a  southwest  wind,  every  thing 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  851 

set  that  -would  draw,  and  every  hour  lessening  the  dis- 
tance between  us  and  the  Cape.  On  that  day  the  gale 
increased  to  almost  a  hurricane,  and  hauled  to  the  west. 
We  were  "  scudding"  before  it,  with  close-reefed  topsails, 
a  heavy  sea  running,  and  threatening  to  ingulf  us  every 
moment.  The  wind  increasing  and  sea  still  rising,  it 
was  deemed  prudent  to  "heave-to."  This  was  a  dan- 
gerous proceeding  in  such  a  gale,  but,  with  careful  man- 
agement at  the  helm,  it  could  be  done.  All  hands  were 
called,  and  placed  at  their  stations.  The  second  and 
third  officers  took  the  helm,  the  men  stationed  at  the 
braces,  and  the  ship's  head  slowly  brought  to  the  wind. 
She  gallantly  came  up  ;  but  a  wave — an  avalanche  of  wa- 
ter— struck  her  on  the  quarter,  dashed  in  on  deck,  sweep- 
ing every  thing  before  it.  "  Hold  on  for  your  lives !" 
was  the  cry  from  the  captain's  lips,  and  each  man  grasp- 
ed the  rigging,  expecting  every  moment  to  be  swept 
overboard.  It  was  a  fearful  moment.  The  brave  men 
at  the  helm  were  up  to  their  waists  in  water,  but  bravely 
they  clung  to  the  wheel,  knowing  that  if  they  left  it 
death  and  destruction  awaited  us  all.  The  body  of  wa- 
ter on  deck  was  immense,  being  filled  to  the  rail ;  and 
as  the  noble  old  ship  would  roll  fearfully  from  side  to 
side,  it  would  seem  as  if  she  never  would  recover  her- 
self By  dint  of  great  exertion,  boards  were  knocked  off 
the  bulwarks,  and  the  water  began  to  pour  out.  This  ren- 
dered her  laboring  more  easy,  and  she  was  soon  "  luflfed- 
to,"  and  rode  comparatively  easy.  "We  all  breathed 
more  freely  when  this  was  done,  and  felt  that  we  had 
had  a  narrow  escape. 

As  we  remained  on  deck  watching  the  scene,  we  could 
not  but  contemplate  its  grandeur.  As  the  ship  would 
rise  on  the  top  of  a  gigantic  wave,  it  seemed  as  if  we 
were  placed  on  the  summit  of  a  high  mountain,  with  a 
yawning  gulf  at  our  feet,  into  which  the  ship  would  rap- 
idly plunge  as  if  she  would  bury  herself.     A  feeling  of 


352  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 

awe  and  terror  would  involuntarily  creep  over  us  as  she 
alternately  rose  to  the  crest  of  the  mountain  waves,  and 
again  plunged  downward  with  fearful  velocity,  as  if  ev- 
ery plunge  would  be  her  last. 

As  soon  as  the  gale  moderated  sufficiently  sail  was 
again  made,  and  the  noble  old  craft  plowed  her  way  on- 
ward through  the  briny  wave,  bearing  her  freight  of  hu- 
manity nearer,  nearer  to  that  home  they  so  longed  to 
see,  and  to  those  friends  whose  embrace  they  so  "longed 
to  clasp.  By  our  reckoning  we  now  found  ourselves 
"  off  Cape  Horn,"  and,  with  a  fair  wind,  hoped  soon  to 
leave  the  Pacific  far  behind  us. 

The  weather  now  became  very  cold,  and  our  Portu- 
guese and  Kanaka  found  some  rather  tough  experiences 
of  it.  In  fact,  they  were  about  froze  up.  Amo,  the  Ka- 
naka, would  come  on  deck,  and,  the  cold  soon  taking 
hold,  exclaim,  "  What  for  all  the  same  ?  Ah !  too  much 
bite  you  no  see  'em!  What  make  all  the  same  this?" 
On  asking  him  if  he  ever  saw  cold  weather  before,  he 
replied,  '*  Golly !  no.  I  no  been  see  all  same  this  my 
land.  Cape  Horn,  he  no  good."  He  constantly  wore 
three  or  four  coats,  and,  in  fact,  all  the  clothes  he  could 
get  on.  It  appeared  almost  impossible  that  the  cold 
should  penetrate  so  many  thicknesses,  yet  he  complained 
that  it  did.  Manuel  and  Amo  both  came  on  deck  one 
morning,  and  found  it  covered  with  snow.  We  never 
saw  two  persons  more  astonished  than  they.  They  made 
all  sorts  of  inquiries,  asking  where  it  came  from,  what  it 
was  for,  and  questions  innumerable.  Seeing  some  of  the 
men  engaged  in  snowballing,  they  thought  they  would 
"  take  a  hand,"  especially  as  they  occasionally  received 
a  quantity  in  the  face.  On  picking  it  up,  however,  and 
attempting  to  pack  it,  they  very  soon  let  it  fall,  exclaim- 
ing, "  Golly !  he  hot  all  the  same  fire !"  and  ran  ofi",  slap- 
ping their  hands  together,  and  blowing  their  fingers. 

By  our  reckoning  we  found  that  on  Thursday,  Jan- 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  858 

uary  26th,  we  had  fairly  passed  Cape  Horn,  and  were 
once  more  in  the  Atlantic.  When  this  fact  was  an- 
nounced, a  feeling  of  great  joy  seemed  to  pervade  the 
whole  ship.  We  had  all  dreaded  the  passage  round, 
and,  now  that  it  was  passed,  all  felt  a  great  relief.  And 
we  felt  that  we  were  so  much  nearer  home.  In  fact,  it 
appeared  as  though  we  were  almost  home ;  and  as  we 
had  before  counted  the  months,  and  then  the  weeks  that 
would  elapse  ere  we  should  tread  our  native  soil,  we  felt 
that  we  could  now  begin  to  count  the  clays. 

On  Saturday,  February  3d,  we  spoke  the  "  Betsey 
Williams,"  of  New  London,  Captain  Pendleton.  She 
was,  like  ourselves,  homeward  bound,  with  a  full  cargo 
of  whale  oil.  We  passed  a  very  pleasant  day  with  them, 
and  at  evening  wished  each  other  a  safe  and  speedy  pas- 
sage, and  parted  company. 

We  had  the  usual  amount  of  calms  and  head  winds, 
which  brought  out  the  usual  quantity  oi grumbling  from 
all  hands,  until  we  sighted  the  Brazilian  coast.  We 
then  took  a  southeast  wind,  which  merrily  bowled  us 
onward  toward  the  line,  which  we  were  soon  to  cross  for 
the  last  time.  And  cross  it  we  did  on  Friday,  March 
10th,  but  with  far  different  feelings  than  when  we  cross- 
ed it  the^irs^  time,  nearly  five  years  previous.  Then  we 
felt  the  future  to  be  all  uncertainty ;  now  we  looked  for- 
ward to  the  happy  time  when  we  should  meet  those  we 
so  much  longed  to  see.  Then  we  had  the  prospect  of 
four  years'  absence  from  our  native  land;  now  we  felt 
that  that  time  had  passed  away,  and  we  were  soon  to 
reap  the  fruit  of  our  labor.  At  evening  all  hands  gath- 
ered upon  the  forecastle,  spinning  yarns,  singing  songs, 
etc.,  in  joyful  anticipation,  and,  with  three  hearty  cheers 
for  "Yankee  land,"  adjourned. 

It  was  now  time  for  us  to  begin  to  paint  ship,  slick  up 
things  generally,  and  make  every  thing  "  shipshape  and 
Bristol  fashion."    This  must  be  done  in  pleasant  tropical 


354  LIFE  AND  ADVEXTURE  IN 

weather,  and  we  soon  had  a  new  coat  on  the  old  ship, 
making  her  look  "  e'enamost  as  good  as  new,"  We  were 
on  the  watch  for  outward-bound  vessels,  as  we  wished 
to  obtain  late  news  from  home,  and  naturally  felt  anx- 
ious to  know  what  was  going  on,  and  news  of  any  kind 
was  welcome.  On  Saturday,  March  25th,  we  spoke  the 
brig  "  Alpha,"  of  Halifax,  and  sent  a  boat  on  board  to 
obtain,  if  possible,  some  news,  and  a  few  vegetables  of 
some  kind,  as  ours  had  long  since,  to  use  a  somewhat 
homely  expression, "  gi'n  out."  The  boat  soon  returned, 
however,  with  neither,  and  we  bid  our  Blue-nose  friends 
good-by,  and  went  on  our  way. 

As  we  stated  in  a  previous  chapter,  we  obtained  our 
last  whales  on  Japan.  It  is  customary  for  whalers  to 
man  mastheads  during  the  passage  home  as  well  as  on 
cruising-grounds,  although  not  as  vigilant  a  watch,  we 
think,  is  kept.  The  try- works,  also,  are  kept  standing 
until  they  arrive  near  Bermuda.  On  Saturday,  April 
1st,  the  order  was  given,  "  Overboard  try-works,"  and  at 
it  we  went  with  a  will.  Bricks  and  mortar  soon  flew 
into  the  ocean,  and  the  large  try-pots  were  released  from 
their  places  and  lashed  to  the  deck.  "  No  more  whales 
this  voyage,"  cried  the  mate,  as  the  last  brick  disappear- 
ed over  the  side.  Yet  we  felt  a  regret  at  this  too,  for 
we  would  have  loved  the  excitement,  just  then,  of  fast- 
ening to  an  eighty  barreler,  and  having  a  nice  run.  But 
it  was  not  to  be,  and  we  were  not  very  sorry. 

All  seamen  know  the  weather  which  is  most  common 
"  off  the  Bermudas."  "We  had  our  share  of  the  gales  so 
prevalent  there.  From  this  time  for  a  week  or  more, 
we  experienced  all  sorts  of  weather  and  winds.  One  day 
a  fair  wind,  and  the  next  "  dead  ahead,"  as  seamen  term 
it,  blowing  a  gale. 

At  last  we  took  a  breeze  from  the  southwest,  which 
increased  to  a  heavy  gale,  but  held  on  until  we  entered 
the  Gulf  Stream.    This  we  knew  by  the  temperature  of 


A   L.i2<D-SHAEK. 


THE  SOUTH  PACIFIC.  367 

the  water,  wliicTi  is  there  always  blood-warm.  On  Sat- 
urday, April  8th,  we  ascertained  that  we  were  to  the 
northward  of  the  Gulf  Stream,  and  on  soundings,  the 
water  being  a  bright  green  color. 

On  Monday,  April  10th,  all  hands  were  ordered  to 
"  bend  the  cables."  It  is  unnecessary  to  say  that  we  re- 
joiced greatly  at  this  order.  The  chains  were  dragged 
from  their  resting-place  in  the  hold  in  double-quick  time, 
and  every  thing  got  ready  for  "letting  go"  the  anchor 
on  soil  that  had  not  been  touched  by  it  for  nearly  five 
years.  Although  not  yet  in  sight  of  land,  we  all  were 
anxious,  excited,  nervous.  If  the  reader  asks  why,  we 
reply  we  had  been  years  separated  from  our  native  land, 
and  were  now  returning  to  it. 

The  morning  of  Tuesday,  April  11th,  broke  upon  us 
thick,  rainy,  cold,  and  disagreeable.  As  the  fog  grad- 
ually rose,  we  discovered  around  and  about  us  on  every 
side  a  great  number  of  vessels,  probably  a  majority  of 
them  coasters.  Bringing  the  old  gun  to  the  gangway, 
we  fired  it  several  times,  in  hopes  it  would  bring  us  a 
pilot.  The  effort  was  successful.  In  a  short  time,  the 
New  Bedford  pilot-boat  "  George  Steers"  ran  alongside, 
and  furnished  us  with  an  old  gray-headed  veteran,  a 
regular  old  sea-dog,  to  take  charge  of  the  ship,  and  bring 
her  to  an  anchor  off  New  Bedford.  It  is  useless  to  at- 
tempt describing  the  joy,  the  enthusiasm  of  all  hands, 
now  that  the  long-looked-for  moment  had  come  when 
"  old  Hard-a-lee"  should  put  his  foot  on  deck.  And 
when  he  informed  us  that  he  intended  to  have  the  ship 
at  anchor  in  New  Bedford  harbor  at  10  P.M.  that  night, 
one  simultaneous  shout  arose,  and  every  man  sprang  to 
his  post. 

We  never  heard  that  the  adage  "  There's  many  a  slip 
'twixt  the  cup  and  the  lip"  failed  because  it  is  old,  and 
we  realized  it  during  that  night  and  the  following  day. 
Instead  of  being  in  the  city  of  New  Bedford,  as  we  an- 


358  LIFE  AND  ADVE^STTURE  IN 

ticipated,  we  found  oufselves,  on  the  following  morning, 
in  the  midst  of  as  severe  a  gale  as  we  had  experienced 
during  the  voyage.  A  short  time  after  the  sun  went 
down,  the  wind  rose  from  the  northeast,  and  we  were 
soon  stripped  to  the  bare  poles.  Add  to  this  furious 
storms  of  hail  and  snow  pelting  us  continually,  and  one 
can  judge  of  our  situation.  The  gale  continued  during 
the  whole  of  "Wednesday  and  Wednesday  night,  furious 
as  a  hurricane,  and  directly  in  our  teeth.  This  was  tan- 
talizing ;  but  bear  it  we  must,  and  wait  for  a  fair  wind. 

The  next  morning,  about  eight  o'clock,  the  wind  mod- 
erated and  hauled  to  the  south.  It  was  not  many  min- 
utes before  every  stitch  of  canvas  that  would  draw  was 
set,  and  we  were  rapidly  approaching  the  land.  Block 
Island  hove  in  sight,  then  Montauk  Point,  and  thus  one 
point  of  land  after  another  rose  to  view.  "  That  'Mer- 
ick?"  exclaimed  Amo,  the  Kanaka,  as  the  land  loomed 
up  in  the  distance.  "  Yes,"  we  replied,  with  a  feeling 
of  joy  and  pride,  "yes,  iJiat  is  America  T^ 

Bright  and  beautiful  shone  the  full  moon  as  we  sailed 
up  Buzzard's  Bay  that  evening,  steering  for  Clarke's 
Point.  Sail  was  gradually  reduced,  and  furled  for  the 
last  time.  At  midnight  we  dropped  anchor  off  the  point, 
about  two  miles  below  the  city,  and  when  it  struck  the 
bottom,  three  hearty,  enthusiastic  cheers  were  given,  that 
made  the  welkin  ring.  The  remaining  sails  were  soon 
furled,  and  we  started  for  the  shore,  where  we  found  our 
friends  waiting  to  receive  us  with  open  arms.  We 
breathed  a  prayer  of  gratitude  to  Almighty  God,  who 
had  spared  and  shielded  us  through  all  the  vicissitudes 
and  dangers  to  which  we  had  been  exposed,  and  permit- 
ted us  to  return  in  safety  to  our  native  land. 

And  what  shall  we  say  in  conclusion  ?  We  thank  the 
reader  who  has  followed  us  through  the  wanderings  of 
five  years,  and,  if  he  has  been  instructed  or  amused,  we 
are  content.     As  is  remarked  in  the  Preface,  we  have 


JUST  LAUDED. 


THE   SOUTH   PACIFIC.  361 

told  our  "  yarn"  in  a  plain,  unvarnished  style,  laying  no 
claim  to  literary  merit,  or  wishing  to  be  considered  an 
author^  but  merely  seeking  to  lay  before  the  public  a 
truthful  statement  of  what  we  s?w.  With  this  conclu- 
sion, we  wish  all  our  readers  long  life  and  happiness,  and 
bid  them  an  affectionate  farewell. 


1- 


&--  /^ 


Z  ^      /2-    /* 


THE   END. 


Mr.  Motley,  the  American  historian  of  the  United  Netherlands — we  owe  him 
English  homage. — London  Times. 

"  As  interesting  as  a  romance,  and  as  reliable  as  a  proposition  0/  Euclid.'" 


History  of 
The  United  Netherlands. 

FBOM  THE  DEATH  OF  WILLIAM  THE  SILENT  TO  THE   BTNOD  OP  DOKT.      WITH  A 

rDLL  VIEW  OP  THE  ENGLISH-DUTCH   STEUGQLE  AGAINST   SPAIN,  AND 

OF  THE  OKIGIN  AND  DESTKUCTION  OF  THE  SPANISH 

ARMADA. 

By  JOHN  LOTHKOP  MOTLEY,  LL.D.,  D.C.L., 

CorrespondiDg  Member  of  the  Institute  of  France,  Author  of  "The  Rise  of  the 
Dutch  Eepublic." 

With  Portraits  and  Map. 

2  vols.  8vo,  Mualin,  $4  00;  Sheep,  $4  50;  Half  Calf,  $6  00. 

Critical  Notices. 

Ilia  living  and  truthful  picture  of  eventB.—Qtiarterly  Review  (London),  Jan., 
1861. 

Fertile  as  the  present  age  has  been  in  historical  works  of  the  highest  merit, 
none  of  them  can  be  ranked  above  these  volumes  in  the  grand  qualities  of  interest, 
accuracy,  and  truth. — Edinburgh  Quarterly  Review,  Jan.,  1861. 

This  noble  work Westminster  Review  (JLondon). 

One  of  the  most  fascinating  aa  well  as  important  histories  of  the  century. Ccrr. 

N.  Y.  Evening  Post. 

The  careful  study  of  these  volumes  will  infallibly  afford  a  feast  both  rich  and 
rare Baltimore  Republican. 

Already  takes  a  rank  among  standard  works  of  history. — London  Critic. 

Mr.  Motley's  prose  epic. — London  Spectator. 

Its  pages  are  pregnant  with  instruction. — London  Literary  Gazette. 

We  may  profit  by  almost  every  page  of  his  narrative.  All  the  topics  which  agi- 
tate us  now  are  more  or  less  vividly  presented  in  the  History  of  the  United  Nether- 
lands  Nev)  York  Times. 

Bears  on  every  page  marks  of  the  same  vigorous  mind  that  produced  "The  Rise 
of  the  Dutch  Republic;"  but  the  new  work  is  riper,  mellower,  and  though  equally 
racy  of  the  soil,  softer  flavored.  The  inspiring  idea  which  breathes  through  Mr. 
Motley's  histories  and  colors  the  whole  texture  of  his  narrative,  is  the  grandeur  of 
that  memorable  struggle  in  the  16th  century  by  which  the  human  mind  broke  the 
thraldom  of  religions  intolerance  and  achieved  its  independence — The  World,  N.'Y. 

The  name  of  Motley  now  stands  in  the  veiy  front  rank  of  living  historians.  His 
Dutch  Republic  took  the  world  by  surprise ;  but  the  favorable  verdict  then  given 
is  now  only  the  more  deliberately  confirmed  on  the  publication  of  the  continued 
story  under  the  title  of  the  History  of  the  United  Netherlands.  All  the  nerve, 
and  power,  and  substance  of  juicy  liife  are  there,  lending  a  charm  to  every  page. — 
Church  Journal,  N.  Y. 

Motley,  indeed,  has  produced  a  prose  epic,  and  his  fighting  scenes  are  as  real, 
spirited,  and  life-like  as  the  combats  in  the  Iliad The  fi-ess  (Phila.). 

His  history  is  as  interesting  as  a  romance,  and  as  reliable  as  a  proposition  of  Eu- 
clid. Clio  never  had  a  more  faithful  disciple.  We  advise  every  reader  whose 
means  will  permit  to  become  the  owner  of  these  fascinating  volumes,  assuring  him 
that  he  will  never  regret  the  investment Christian  Intelligencer,  N.  Y. 

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"They  do  honor  to  American  Literature,  and  ■would  do 
honor  to  the  Literature  of  any  Country  in  the  "World." 

THE   RISE   OF 
THE    DUTCH    REPUBLIC. 

By  JOHN  LOTHEOP  MOTLEY. 

New  Edition.  With  a  Portrait  of  William  of  Orange.  3  vols. 
8vo,  Muslin,  $6  00;  Sheep,  $6  75;  Half  Calf  antique,  $9  00; 
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We  regard  this  work  as  the  hest  contribution  to  modem  history  that  has  yet 
been  made  by  an  American.— Methodist  Qvarterly  Review. 

The  "History  of  the  Dutch  Republic"  is  a  great  gift  to  us;  but  the  heart  and 
earnestness  tliat  beat  through  all  its  pages  are  greater,  for  they  give  us  most 
timely  inspiration  to  vindicate  the  true  ideas  of  our  country,  and  to  compose  an 
able  history  of  our  own. — Christian  Examiner  (Boston). 

Tliis  work  bears  on  its  face  the  evidences  of  scholarship  and  research.  The 
arrangement  is  clear  and  effective ;  the  style  energetic,  Uvely,  and  often  brilliant 
*  *  •  Mr.  Motley's  instructive  volumes  will,  we  trust,  have  a  circulation  commen- 
surate with  their  interest  and  \a.\ue.— Protestant  Episcopal  Quarterly  Review. 

To  the  illustration  of  this  most  interesting  period  Mr.  Motley  has  brought  the 
matured  powers  of  a  vigorous  and  brilliant  mind,  and  the  abundant  fruits  of  pa- 
tient and  judicious  study  and  deep  reflection.  The  result  is,  one  of  the  most 
important  contributions  to  historical  literature  that  have  been  made  in  this  coun- 
try.— North  American  Review. 

We  would  conclude  this  notice  by  earnestly  recommending  our  readers  to  pro- 
cure for  themselves  this  truly  groat  and  admirable  work,  by  the  production  of 
which  the  anther  has  conferred  no  less  honor  upon  his  country  than  he  has  won 
praise  and  fame  for  himself,  and  than  which,  we  can  assure  them,  they  can  find 
nothing  more  attractive  or  interesting  within  the  compass  of  modern  literature. 
— Evangelical  Review. 

It  is  not  often  that  we  have  the  pleasure  of  commending  to  the  attention  of  the 
lover  of  books  a  work  of  such  extraordinary  aud  unexceptionable  excellence  as 
this  one, — Universalist  Quarterly  Review. 

There  are  an  elevation  and  a  classic  polish  in  these  volumes,  and  a  felicity  of 
grouping  and  of  portraiture,  which  invest  the  subject  with  the  attractions  of  a 
living  and  stirring  episode  in  the  grand  historic  Ata.m3..— Southern  Methodist 
Quarterly  Review. 

The  author  writes  with  a  genial  glow  and  love  of  his  subject. — Presbytericm 
Quarterly  Review. 

Mr.  Motley  is  a  sturdy  Republican  and  a  hearty  Protestant  His  style  is  live- 
ly and  picturesque,  and  his  work  is  an  honor  and  an  important  accession  to  our 
national  literature Church  Review.  > 

Mr.  Motley's  work  is  an  important  one,  the  result  of  profound  research,  sincere 
convictions,  sound  principles,  and  manly  sentiments;  and  even  those  who  are 
most  familiar  with  the  history  of  the  period  will  find  in  it  a  fresh  and  vivid  ad- 
dition to  their  previous  knowledge.  It  does  honor  to  American  literature,  and 
would  do  honor  to  the  literature  of  any  country  in  the  world. — Ediriburgh  Re- 
view. 

A  serious  chasm  in  English  historical  literature  has  been  (by  this  book)  very 
remarkably  filled.  *  •  *  A  history  as  complete  as  industry  and  genius  can  make 
it  now  lies  before  us,  of  the  first  twenty  years  of  the  revolt  of  the  United  Prov- 
inces. •  *  *  All  the  essentials  of  a  great  writer  Mr.  Motley  eminently  possesses. 
His  mind  is  broad,  his  industry  unwearied.  In  power  of  dramatic  description 
no  modem  historian,  except,  perhaps,  Mr.  Carlyle,  surpasses  him,  and  in  analy- 
sis of  character  he  is  elaborate  and  distinct. — Westminster  Review. 


2    MOTLEY'S  RISE  OF  THE  DUTCH  KEPUBLia 

It  is  a  work  of  real  historical  value,  the  result  of  accurate  criticism,  written 
in  a  liberal  spirit,  and  from  first  to  last  deeply  interesting. — Athenceum, 

The  style  is  excellent,  clear,  vivid,  eloquent;  and  the  industry  with  which 
original  sources  have  been  investigated,  and  through  which  new  light  has  been 
shed  over  perplexed  incidents  and  characters,  entitles  Mr.  Motley  to  a  high  lank 
in  the  literature  of  an  age  peculiarly  rich  in  history. — Isorth  British  Review. 

It  abounds  in  new  information,  and,  as  a  first  work,  commands  a  very  cordial 
recognition,  not  merely  of  the  promise  it  gives,  but  of  the  extent  and  importance 
of  the  labor  actually  performed  on  it London  Examiner. 

Mr.  Motley's  "  History"  is  a  work  of  which  any  country  might  be  proud. 

Press  (London). 

Mr.  Motley's  History  will  be  a  standard  book  of  reference  in  historical  litera- 
ture.— London  Literary  Gazette. 

Mr.  Motley  has  searched  the  whole  range  of  historical  documents  necessaiy  to 
the  composition  of  his  work. — London  Leader. 

This  is  really  a  great  work.  It  belongs  to  the  class  of  books  in  which  we 
range  our  Grotes,  Milmans,  Merivales,  and  Macaulays,  as  the  glories  of  English 
literature  in  the  department  of  history.  •  •  •  Mr.  Motley's  gifts  as  a  historical 
writer  are  among  the  highest  and  rarest. — A'oneoit/ormist  (London). 

Mr.  Motley's  volumes  will  well  repay  perusal.  •  •  •  For  his  learning,  his  liberal 
tone,  and  his  generous  enthusiasm,  we  he^jrtily  commend  him,  and  bid  him  good 
speed  for  the  remainer  of  his  interesting  and  heroic  narrative. — Saturday  Remeuo. 

The  story  is  a  noble  one,  and  is  worthily  treated.  *  •  •  Mr.  Motley  has  had  the 
patience  to  unravel,  with  unfailing  perseverance,  the  thousand  intricate  plots  of 
the  adversaries  of  the  Prince  of  Orange ;  but  the  details  and  the  literal  extracts 
which  he  has  derived  from  original  documents,  and  transferred  to  his  pages, 
give  a  truthful  color  and  a  picturesque  effect,  which  are  especially  charming. — 
London  Daily  Sews. 

M.  Lothrop  Motley  dans  son  magnifiqne  tableau  de  la  formation  de  notre  Ee- 
publique. — G-.  Groen  Vau  Pkixbtebkk. 

Our  accomplished  countryman,  Mr.  J.  Lothrop  Motley,  who,  during  the  last 
five  years,  for  the  better  prosecution  of  his  labors,  has  established  his  residence 
in  the  neighborhood  of  the  scenes  of  his  narrative.  No  one  acquainted  with  the 
fine  powers  of  mind  possessed  by  this  scholar,  and  the  earnestness  with  which  he 
has  devoted  himself  to  the  task,  can  doubt  that  he  will  do  full  justice  to  his  im- 
portant but  difficult  subject — W.  H.  Pbesoott. 

The  production  of  such  a  work  as  this  astonishes,  while  it  gratifies  the  pride 
of  the  American  reader. — X  Y.  Observer. 

The  "Rise  of  the  Dutch  Republic"  at  once,  and  by  acclamation,  takes  its 
place  by  the  "  Decline  and  Fall  of  the  Roman  Empire,"  as  a  work  which,  wheth- 
er for  research,  substance,  or  style,  will  never  be  superseded.— X  Y.  Albion. 

A  work  upon  which  all  who  read  the  English  language  may  congratulate 
themselves. — A'ew  Yorker  Handds  Zeitung. 

Mr.  Motley's  place  is  now  (alluding  to  this  book)  with  Hallam  and  Lord  Ma- 
hon,  Alison  and  Macanlay  in  the  Old  Country,  and  with  Washington  Irving, 
Prescott,  and  Bancroft  in  this. — X.  Y.  Times. 

Thb  authority,  in  the  English  tongue,  for  the  history  of  the  period  and  people 
to  which  it  refers. — S.  Y.  Courier  and  Enquirer. 

This  work  at  once  places  the  author  on  the  list  of  American  historians  which 
has  been  so  signally  illustrated  by  the  names  of  Irving,  Prescott,  Bancroft,  and 
HUdreth. — Boston  Times. 

The  work  is  a  noble  one,  and  a  most  desirable  acquisition  to  our  historical  lit- 
erature. — Mobile  Advertiser. 

Such  a  work  is  an  honor  to  its  author,  to  his  country,  and  to  the  age  in  which 
it  WM  written. — Ohio  Farmer. 

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COMPLETION  OF  GROTE'S  HISTORY  OF  GREECE. 


A   HISTORY   OF   GREECE, 

FROM  THE  EARLIEST  PERIOD  TO  THE  CLOSE  OF  THE  GENERA- 
TION CONTEMPORARY  WITH  ALEXANDER  THE  GREAT- 

BY  GEORGE  GROTE,  ESQ. 

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It  is  not  often  that  a  work  of  such  magnitude  is  undertaken  ;  more  seldom  still 
is  such  a  work  so  perseveringly  carried  on,  and  so  soon  and  yet  so  worthily,  ac- 
complished. Mr.  Grote  has  illustrated  and  invested  with  an  entirely  new  signifi- 
cance a  portion  of  the  past  history  of  humanity,  which  he,  perhaps,  thinks  the  most 
splendid  that  has  been,  and  which  all  allow  to  have  been  very  splendid.  lie  has  made 
great  Greeks  live  again  before  us,  and  has  enabled  us  to  realize  Greek  modes  of  think- 
ing, lie  has  added  a  great  historical  work  to  the  language,  taking  its  place  with 
other  great  histories,  and  yet  not  like  any  of  them  in  the  special  combination  of 
merits  which  it  exhibits  :  scholarship  and  learning  such  as  we  have  been  ac- 
customed to  demand  only  in  Germans  ;  an  art  of  grouping  and  narration  different 
from  that  of  Hume,  different  from  that  of  Gibbon,  and  yet  producing  the  effect  of 
sustained  charm  and  pleasure  ;  a  peculiarly  keen  interest  in  events  of  the  political 
order,  and  a  wide  knowledge  of  the  business  of  politics  ;  and,  finally,  harmonizing 
all,  a  spirit  of  sober  philosophical  generalization  always  tending  to  view  facts 
collectively  in  their  speculative  bearing  as  well  as  to  record  them  individually. 
It  is  at  once  an  ample  and  detailed  narrative  of  the  history  of  Greece,  and  a  lucid 
philosophy  of  Grecian  history.— Lontion  Athenmum,  March  8,  1856. 

Mr.  Grote  will  be  emphatically  the  historian  of  the  people  of  Greece. — Dublin 
University  Magazine. 

The  acute  intelligence,  the  discipline,  faculty  of  intellect,  and  the  excellent  eru- 
dition every  one  would  look  for  from  Mr.  Grote  ;  but  they  will  here  also  find  the 
element  which  harmonizes  these,  and  without  which,  on  such  a  theme,  an  orderly 
and  solid  work  could  not  have  been  written. — Examiner. 

A  work  second  to  that  of  Gibbon  alone  in  English  historical  literature.  Mr. 
Grote  gives  the  philosophy  as  well  as  the  facts  ot  history,  and  it  would  be  difficult 
to  find  an  author  combining  in  the  same  degree  the  accurate  learning  of  the  schol- 
ar with  the  experience  of  a  practical  statesman.  The  completion  of  this  great 
work  may  well  be  hailed  with  some  degree  of  national  pride  and  satisfaction. — 
Literary  Gazette,  March  8,  1856. 

The  better  acquainted  any  one  is  with  Grecian  history,  and  with  the  manner  in 
which  that  history  has  heretofore  been  written,  the  higher  will  be  his  estimation 
of  this  work.  Mr.  Grote's  familiarity  both  with  the  great  highways  and  the  ob- 
.?curest  by-paths  of  Grecian  literature  and  antiquity  has  seldom  been  equaled,  and 
not  often  approached,  in  unlearned  England ;  while  those  Germans  who  have  ri- 
valed it  have  seldom  possessed  the  quality  which  eminently  characterizes  Mr. 
Grote,  of  keeping  historical  imagination  severely  under  the  restraints  of  evidence. 
The  great  charm  of  Mr.  Grote's  history  has  been  throughout  the  cordial  admira- 
tion he  feels  for  the  people  whose  acts  and  fortunes  he  has  to  relate.  *  *  We  bid 
Mr.  Grote  farewell ;  heartily  congratulating  him  on  the  conclusion  of  a  work  which 
is  a  monument  of  English  learning,  of  English  clear-sightedness,  and  of  English 
love  of  freedom  and  the  characters  it  produces. — Spectator. 

Endeavor  to  become  acquainted  with  Mr.  Grote,  who  is  engaged  on  a  Greek 
History.  I  expect  a  great  deal  from  this  production. — Niebuhr,  the  Historian, 
to  Professor  Lieber. 

The  author  has  now  incontestably  won  for  himself  the  title,  not  merely  of  a 
historian,  but  otthe  historian  of  Greece. — Quarterly  Review. 

Mr.  Grote  is,  beyond  all  question,  the  historian  of  Greece,  unrivaled,  so  far  as 
we  know,  in  the  erudition  and  genius  with  which  he  has  revived  the  picture  of  a 
distant  past,  and  brought  home  every  part  and  feature  of  its  history  to  our  intel- 
lects and  our  hearts. — London  Times. 

For  becoming  dignity  of  style,  unforced  adaptation  of  results  to  principles,  care- 
ful verification  of  theory  by  fact,  and  impregnation  of  fact  by  theory — for  extensive 
and  well-weighed  learning,  employed  with  intelligence  and  taste,  we  have  seen  no 
historical  work  of  modern  times  which  we  would  place  above  Mr.  Grote's  histo- 
ry—-.l/omjreg  Chronicle. 

HARPER  &  BROTHERS,  PUBLISHERS,  FRANKLIN  SQUARE,  N.  Y. 


^axptx'B  Catalogue. 


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^ 


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